Lüsener Fernerkogel
| Lüsener Fernerkogel | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Lüsener Fernerkogel from the north ( Gries im Sellrain ) |
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| height | 3298 m above sea level A. | |
| location | south of Lüsens | |
| Mountains | Stubai Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.66 km → Vorderer Brunnenkogel | |
| Notch height | 176 m ↓ notch to the Lüsen peak | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 5 '47 " N , 11 ° 6' 53" E | |
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| Type | Rock peaks | |
| rock | Granite gneiss | |
| First ascent | 1836 by Karl Thurwieser and Philipp Schöpf | |
| Normal way | Glacier tour, climbing UIAA II | |
 View from the northeast (from the Hohe Villerspitze ): on the right the Lüsener Fernerkogel, on the left the Rotgratspitze, in front of it the Rotgratferner |
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.jpg) Summit cross on the Lüsener Fernerkogel |
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The Lüsener Fernerkogel (also Lisenser Fernerkogl ) is a 3298 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Stubai Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol .
history
For the Lüsener Fernerkogel, due to its distinctive appearance, there are early records. It appears for the first time in 1142 under the name "cacumen montis qui dicitur Vernær" (literally: the top of the mountain, which is called Ferner) in a border description of Wilten Abbey , which was wealthy in the Sellraintal. The record is indeed a document text that was invalidated in the second half of the 13th century, but its boundary information is based on authentic templates.
topography
The Lüsener Fernerkogel is the dominant mountain above the Lüsenstal , a southern side valley of the Sellraintal . It forms the north-eastern end point of an approximately three-kilometer-long ridge that stretches from the Hinterer Brunnenkogel ( 3325 m ) in the southwest over the Vorderen Brunnenkogel ( 3304 m ), the Lüsener Spitze ( 3231 m ) and the Rotgratspitze ( 3273 m ) to the Lüsener Fernerkogel extends. To the west to the Längental , a side valley of the Lüsenstal, all these mountains fall with the steep walls of the Brunnenkogel , in the east the Lüsener Ferner extends. Separated from the Lüsener Ferner by a steep rocky step, the Plattige Wand , there is another smaller glacier, the Rotgratferner, immediately southeast of the Lüsener Fernerkogel . To the north and east, the Lüsener Fernerkogel is characterized by steep rock faces and a sharp northeast ridge, in the west of which there is another small firn field with the snow tracks .
ways
The normal route to the summit leads over the Lüsener Ferner, the Plattige Wand and the Rotgratferner to a gap at 3198 m south of the summit and from there over the rocky south ridge ( difficulty UIAA I ) to the summit. The Lüsener Ferner can be reached either from the Franz-Senn-Hütte to the east via the Rinnennieder crossing ( 2899 m ) or from the Alpengasthaus Lüsens , the end of the road through the Lüsenstal, via the Kleine Horntal , also a popular ski tour . However, today's normal route was first climbed in 1876 by H. Buchner and F. Jenewein from the Franz-Senn-Hütte, the approach from Lüsens was made by J. Pock , F. Kasperowski, L. Schaufler, W. Seifert, J. Steinbacher and V. Tollinger for the first time in 1888.
Karl Thurwieser and Philipp Schöpf, however, chose the extremely fragile west face for their first ascent in 1836; This path is rarely used today. In 1877 Ludwig Purtscheller and R. Rofner climbed the north ridge (UIAA II) for the first time. A further rise, a steep gully from Rotgratferner to the east is in the summer rockfall , but used in winter to ski.
literature
- Heinrich and Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Stubai Alps . Rother Bergverlag, Munich 1980, ISBN 3-7633-1212-9 , p. 326-328 .
Web links
- Lüsener Fernerkogel from Praxmar on alpenvereinaktiv.com (German)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alpine Club Card 31/2 Stubai Alps, Sellrain
- ↑ Martin Bitschnau , Hannes Obermair : Tiroler Urkundenbuch, II. Department: The documents on the history of the Inn, Eisack and Pustertal valleys. Volume 2: 1140-1200 . Universitätsverlag Wagner, Innsbruck 2012, ISBN 978-3-7030-0485-8 , p. 23-25, No. 401 .
- ^ A. & A. Jentzsch: Lisener Fernerkogel from Ghf. Lisens. (No longer available online.) Bergstieg.com, formerly in the original ; Retrieved January 18, 2009 . ( Page no longer available , search in web archives ) Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
