Schwemser tip
| Schwemser tip | ||
|---|---|---|
 Schwemser Spitze (left) from the northeast, right the Äussere Quellspitze |
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| height | 3459 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol , Trentino-Alto Adige , Italy | |
| Mountains | Ötztal Alps , Saldurkamm | |
| Dominance | 1.58 km → Inner spring peak | |
| Notch height | 208 m ↓ Oberettesjoch | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 46 '26 " N , 10 ° 43' 57" E | |
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| First ascent | on September 2, 1875 by J. Hoffmann, led by Josef Spechtenhauser | |
| Normal way | from Kurzras over the Schwemser Ferner as an alpine tour and the southern summit to the main summit | |
The Schwemser Spitze , also called Oberettesspitze , with its 3459 m high main peak is the highest mountain in the Saldurkamm in the southern Ötztal Alps in the Italian province of South Tyrol . In addition to the main summit, the top also has a 3337 m high south summit. A distinctive south ridge stretches one and a half kilometers down to the Bildstöckeljoch at an altitude of 3,097 m , an important path crossing between the Schnalstal and the Matscher Tal . The first tourist ascent of the Schwemser Spitze was made on September 2, 1875 by J. Hoffmann and the mountain guide Josef Spechtenhauser.
Location and surroundings
The Saldurkamm is a mountain range that begins in the north at the Innere Quellspitze and stretches south from the main Alpine ridge towards Vinschgau . The Schwemser Spitze is a good four kilometers as the crow flies northwest of Kurzras ( Schnals municipality ). It is surrounded by rapidly shrinking glaciers . In the west lies the Oberettesferner , in the northeast the Steinschlagferner and in the south the Schwemser Ferner . Adjacent peaks are along the Nordgrats , separated by the Oberettesjoch ( 3251 m ) to 3385 m high exterior source tip , the 3296-meter in the course of the elongated Südgrats Southern Oberettesspitze , then, separated by the at 3097 m preferred height Bildstöckeljoch that Saldurspitze with 3433 m height. The western flank of the Schwemser Spitze falls into the Matscher Valley , the eastern flank into the Schnalstal .
Base and ascent
The path led Hoffmann and Spechtenhauser in 1875 from Kurzras in a north-westerly direction over the Schwemser Ferner first to the south summit and after overcoming an ice wall to the north summit in a walking time of about five hours. The climb that is common today is shorter but more difficult. From the Oberetteshütte located to the west in the Matscher Valley at an altitude of 2670 meters , it goes north-east as a high-altitude tour over the Oberettesferner up to the Oberettesjoch. Then the path over the north-west ridge runs partly in, according to literature, moderately difficult climbing with difficulty UIAA II in a walking time of three hours south to the peaks.
Surname
The mountain has different names in the adjacent valleys: In Schnals it is known as Schwemserspitze, in Matsch as Oberettesspitze. The Schnalser name refers to an area there called Schwems and, according to Egon Kühebacher, is of German origin. It can probably be traced back to the Middle High German swem (e) with the meaning "damming" and thus refers to the accumulation of water in the glacier streams that can be found in the Schwems . The name Oberettes comes from a Bergkar on the Matscher side and, according to Johannes Ortner, probably goes back to an Alpine Romanesque * tovaretta with the meaning "terrain with indentations, indentations".
Literature and maps
- Walter Klier , Alpine Club Leader Ötztaler Alpen , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
- Tabacco-Verlag, Udine, Carta topografica 1: 25.000, sheet 04, Val Senales / Schnalstal (the Oberetteshütte is outside the section)
- Tobacco hiking map 1: 25,000, sheet 044, Val Venosta / Vinschgau Sesvenna (Kurzras lies outside the section)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Communications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , Munich 1876, p. 30
- ^ Walter Klier: Alpine Club Guide Ötztaler Alpen , Munich 2006, p. 436 ff.
- ^ Egon Kühebacher : The place names of South Tyrol and their history. The historically grown names of the mountain ranges, summit groups and individual peaks of South Tyrol. Athesia, Bozen 2000, ISBN 88-8266-018-4 , pp. 278-279.
- ↑ Johannes Ortner: Matscher name hike . In: Experience the mountains - The magazine of the Alpine Association of South Tyrol . No. 1 , 2019, p. 62-63 .
