Verstanclahorn
| Verstanclahorn | ||
|---|---|---|
 seen from the south. |
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| height | 3298 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Canton of Graubünden , ( Switzerland ) | |
| Mountains | Silvretta , Alps | |
| Dominance | 3.66 km → Piz Buin | |
| Notch height | 371 m ↓ amplifier | |
| Coordinates | 801367 / 190483 | |
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| First ascent | September 7, 1866 by Jules Jacot and Florian Brosi, led by Jann and Jegen | |
| Normal way | from the Vernelasattel over the south ridge | |
The Verstanclahorn (also Verstanklahorn ) is a 3298 m above sea level. M. high mountain in the southern Silvretta , a mountain range in the central eastern Alps . It is also the fourth highest peak in the entire Silvretta. The geographically dominant horn sends pronounced sharp ridges to the northwest, northeast and south, giving it the appearance of a symmetrical, steep pyramid. The mountain has long been considered the most difficult summit of the Silvretta. It was first climbed on September 7, 1866 by the Geneva student Jules Jacot, the Landammann Florian Brosi and the mountain guides Jann and Jegen from Klosters . The Silvrettahütte at 2341 meters east of Klosters serves as a base for an inspection .
Location and surroundings
The Verstanclahorn is the highest point of the Verstancla group and thus also of the Prättigau-Davos district in the extreme south of the Silvretta. The mountain is completely surrounded by glaciers . In the north, the Verstancla glacier extends up to an altitude of 2950 meters, in the east the La Cudera glacier joins , in the southeast the Vadret de las Maisas , which reaches up to 3000 meters, and in the southwest up to a height of 3100 meters the Vernela glacier . Immediately adjacent mountains are in the course of the northeast ridge 400 meters away Torwache with 3186 meters in height, in the further course, separated by the lying at 2938 meters Verstanclator , the Gletscherchamm ( comb ) to 3173 meters. In the course of the south ridge, separated by the Vernelasattel (3135 m), the 3232 meter high Chapütschin ( Schwarzkopf ) is 500 meters away. From the west ridge of the Verstanclahorn, separated by the Verstanclalücke (2978 m), protrude the three Verstanclaköpfe ( east (3039 m), middle (3058 m) and west peaks with 2993 meters). Important places in the west are the Swiss Klosters, about 15 kilometers away as the crow flies , and in the north the Austrian Partenen , also 15 km away.
Development and Tourism
Jules Jacot and his companions climbed from the Silvretta Club Hut, built in 1865, in a south-easterly direction, first to the Krämerköpf , then up to the Verstanclasattel (3125 m) south of the gate guard and to the summit. This route was repeated several times in the years that followed. The ascent from the south-west of the Vereina valley was attempted on August 20, 1881 by the lawyer Geissler from Freiberg / Saxony with the mountain guide L. Guler and the teacher Schlegel, but it was canceled due to bad weather. Only Guler reached the summit, exploring the way. On August 24th, however, Geissler and Guler also managed to climb. After 12 hours you were back in the valley. The gate guard upstream to the northeast was not defeated until September 5, 1888 by Karl Blodig , Heinrich Heß and Ludwig Purtscheller from the Madlenerhaus .
Guler's route, which he explored in 1881, is now the normal route (easiest ascent) to the Verstanclahorn. However, in the summit area it has difficulties up to UIAA grade III . The uncultivated Marangunhütte (2023 m) in Val Lavinuoz near Lavin can serve as a base for an inspection from the southeast . The path leads north over the Vadret de las Maisas up to the Vernela saddle and then over the south ridge to the summit.
Literature and map
- Günther Flaig : Alpine Club Guide Silvretta , Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-7633-1097-5
- Alpine club map 1: 25,000, sheet 26, Silvretta group
- National map of Switzerland 1: 25,000, sheet 1198, Silvretta
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Günther Flaig: Alpenvereinsführer Silvretta , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2005, p. 280
- ↑ Otto von Pfister, The Silvretta Group in The Development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin 1894, p. 8
- ^ Otto von Pfister, The Silvretta Group in The Development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin 1894, p. 8 f.