Flat Holm

Coordinates: 51°22′37″N 3°07′19″W / 51.37687°N 3.12207°W / 51.37687; -3.12207
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Flat Holm
Map
Geography
LocationBristol Channel
Coordinates51°22′37″N 3°07′19″W / 51.37687°N 3.12207°W / 51.37687; -3.12207
Administration
Wales

Flat Holm (Welsh: Ynys Echni) is a limestone island lying in the Bristol Channel approximately 6 kilometres (4 mi) from Lavernock Point in Glamorgan. It includes the most southerly point of Wales.

The island has a long history of occupation, dating at least from Anglo-Saxon and Viking periods. Religious uses include visits by disciples of Saint Cadoc in the 6th century, and in 1835 it was the site of the foundation of the Bristol Channel Mission, which later became the Mission to Seafarers. A sanatorium for cholera patients was built in 1896 as the isolation hospital for the port of Cardiff. Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the first wireless signals over water from Lavernock to Flat Holm. Because of frequent shipwrecks a pharos was built on the island, which was replaced by a Trinity House lighthouse in 1737, and in 1906 by a foghorn. Because of its strategic position on the approaches to Bristol and Cardiff a series of gun emplacements, known as Flat Holm Battery, were built in the 1860s as part of a line of defences, known as Palmerston Forts. On the outbreak of World War II, the island was rearmed.

It is now managed by Cardiff Council's Flat Holm Project Team and designated as a Local Nature Reserve, Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Protection Area, because of the maritime grassland and rare plants such as Rock Sea-Lavender (Limonium binervosum) and Wild Leek (Allium ampeloprasum). The island also has significant breeding colonies of Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus), Herring Gull (Larus argentatus) and Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus). It is also home to Slow worms (Anguis fragilis) with larger than usual blue markings.

History

Early settlement

The first traces of human habitation of the island are from the late Bronze Age, 900 to 700 BC, known as the Ewart Park Phase. A bronze axe head was discovered on the island in 1988, between the farmhouse and West Beach, at grid reference ST21986498. [1]

In the sub-Roman period of the 6th century AD, it became a retreat for Saint Gildas, who lived on the island as a hermit.[2] His friend Saint Cadoc lived at the same time on Barry Island, and the two sometimes met up for prayers. In the late 560s, Gildas was asked by the High King of Ireland, Ainmuire mac Sétnai, to return to Ireland and, being harassed by pirates on the island, Gildas agreed.[3]

In 1815, Thomas Turner investigated a field 23 metres (75 ft) northeast of the farmhouse, in which were two Christian graves close together. One had been opened, and Turner identified a male skeleton inside. The other was at the time noted to be unopened.[4] In 1890, F. Wootton described the opened grave as having a stone of Purbeck Marble and as being broken in two. It had been moved to the yard of the farm house,[5] and in 1942 H. Ratcliffe-Densham noted that the grave stone was engraved with a Celtic cross. It was covered in lime mortar, so it had probably been re-used as building material. The second grave stone was found lying beside the grave, and under some modern rubbish a coffin with iron bolts was discovered. These were removed to reveal two disturbed skeletons in lime, which may have indicated that they died from a contagious disease.[6] During the Second World War between 1939 and 1945 soldiers undertaking drainage works removed the slab from the south east grave.[7]

Part of a medieval grave slab. 42 cm (17 in) by 26 cm (10 in) and 11 cm (4 in) thick. Now in the National Museum of Wales[8]

Anglo-Saxons and Vikings

The Anglo-Saxons called the island Bradanreolice, confirming the religious associations of the islands, as reolice derives from an Irish word meaning churchyard or graveyard.[9]

In 914 a Viking fleet from the south of Brittany led by two earls, Other and Hroald,[10] took refuge on the island following their defeat by the Saxons at Watchet.[11] The name "Holm" derives from an Old Norse word for "island in an estuary".[12]

The Middle Ages

Following the Norman Conquest in 1066, Robert Fitzhamon formed the Shire of Glamorgan, fixing upon Cardiff Castle as the centre of his new domain. Cardiff became a borough with two parish churches, St. John and St. Mary. Flat Holm came within the parish boundary of St. Mary's and was kept as a hereditary property of the Norman Lords of Glamorgan.[13] The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records that, in 1067, Gytha, King Harold's mother, "and many distinguished men's wives with her", went out to Flat Holm and stayed there for some time before travelling to St. Omer in France.[14]

An archaeological survey by H. J. Thomas [15] in 1979 unearthed a number of medieval potsherds in the vicinity of the farmhouse. The finds included fragments of late 12th- to 13th-century green glazed jugs and flagons. Also found were shards of pottery from the 14th to 19th century, and other evidence of continuous occupation including middens containing numerous bones of cows, pigs, sheep and rabbits, along with oyster and cockle shells. The presence of Pennant sandstone roofing tiles and a fragment of a 14th-century glazed ridge tile indicate the existence of a substantial medieval building, possibly a chapel, demolished when the present farmhouse was constructed.

In 1542 Henry VIII granted Edmund Tournor a lease to farm the island, which his family did until the end of the 17th century when the lease passed to Joseph Robins.[16]

Smuggling

The island's location made it an ideal base for smuggling, which was at its height in the 18th century. Although it was in full view of both the Welsh and English coasts, the customs authorities were powerless to act as they had no boat to take them to the island. According to tradition, a small cave in the east cliff at Flat Holm was used for the storage of contraband. Elsewhere, an old mine shaft on the north side of the island connects with a series of natural tunnels, and a concealed exit to the sea.[17]

Shipwrecks

The treacherous conditions for ships around the island led to several shipwrecks, including, in 1773, the British passenger vessel Tapley. The ship became stranded on Flat Holm on her passage from Cork to Bristol, with the loss of seven passengers.[18] The William and Mary a British sloop, foundered after grounding on Flat Holm while en route from Bristol to Waterford in 1817.[19] Fifty-four passengers were lost, including 22 women and children, with only one survivor. Fifty of the bodies were recovered and buried on Flat Holm.[20] In 1938, the steamship Norman Queen ran ashore on Flat Holm but was refloated,[20] and in 1941 the steamship Middlesex was lost.[21]

Mission to Seafarers

In 1835, clergyman John Ashley was on the shore at Clevedon with his son, who asked him how the people on Flat Holm could go to church. For the following three months Ashley voluntarily ministered to the population of the island. Recognising the needs of the seafarers on the four hundred sailing vessels in the Bristol Channel, he created the Bristol Channel Mission, which later became the Mission to Seafarers.[22] An annual service is held to bless the island.

Marconi

On May 13 1897, Guglielmo Marconi, assisted by George Kemp, a Cardiff Post Office engineer, transmitted the first wireless signals over water from Flat Holm to Lavernock point (near Penarth in Wales).[23] Having failed to interest the Italian government, the twenty-two year old inventor brought his telegraphy system to Britain and met William Preece, a Welshman, who was a major figure in the field and Chief Engineer of the General Post Office. A pair of masts about 34 metres (112 ft) high were erected, at Lavernock Point and on Flat Holm. The receiving mast at Lavernock Point was a 30-metre (98 ft) high pole topped with a cylindrical cap of zinc connected to a detector with insulated copper wire. At Flat Holm the sending equipment included a Ruhmkorff coil with an eight-cell battery. The first trial on the 11th and 12th of May failed but on the 13th the mast at Lavernock was extended to 50 metres (164 ft) and the signals, in Morse Code, were received clearly. The message sent was was "ARE YOU READY"; the Morse slip signed by Marconi and Kemp is now in the National Museum of Wales.

The island made communication history a second time on 8 October 2002, by becoming one of the first areas of South Wales to link to the Internet through a wireless connection.[24]

Buildings

Lighthouse

Flat Holm Lighthouse

Flat Holm Lighthouse is 30 metres (98 ft) high and 50 metres (160 ft) above mean high water. It has a 100–watt lamp that flashes white and red every ten seconds, with a range of up to 56 kilometres (30 nmi).[25]

A pharos (a brazier mounted on a wooden frame),[26] stood on the high eastern part of the island but it was inadequate, and in 1733 the Society of Merchant Venturers of Bristol petitioned Trinity House for a lighthouse.[25] The petition failed, so in 1735 William Crispe of Bristol submitted a proposal to build a lighthouse at his own expense. This proposal also failed but the negotiations resumed in 1736 when a vessel was wrecked near the Holms and 60 soldiers drowned. Following this disaster, the Merchant Venturers finally supported William Crispe's proposal. Crispe had to agree to spend £800 for the construction of the tower and pay costs incurred to obtain official permission (known as a Crown patent)[25] for the light, which consisted of a coal fired brazier,[27] was finally built in 1737, and the light first lit on 25 March 1738.[28]

In 1819, the circular stone tower was raised from 21 metres (69 ft) to 27 metres (89 ft) – to house a more powerful lantern – and converted to occulting in 1881, by means of a clockwork operated mechanism. Flat Holm Light was the last signal station in the country in private ownership when in July 1822, Trinity House finally bought the lease for £15,838.10.[29] Two years later a fountain oil lamp was installed and the lantern was raised by another 1.5 metres (4.9 ft),[25] and in 1867 a lantern 4 metres (13 ft) in diameter was installed. The lighthouse was converted to include accommodation for up to four keepers in 1929, and it was manned until 1988, when it was automated and the keepers withdrawn. In 1997, the light was modernised and converted to solar power. It is is now monitored and controlled by the Trinity House Operations Control Centre at Harwich, in Essex.

Fog Horn Station

Foghorn building

Originally built by Trinity House in 1906, the Foghorn building is a Grade II listed building[30] and was restored by volunteers from the Flat Holm Society with the help of a Prince's Trust grant. It was officially reopened by The Welsh Secretary and the Assembly First Secretary in May 2000 when the foghorn was sounded for the first time since 1988.[30]

Farm House

Flat Holm Farm House

There are records of a dairy farm on the island and of a grange (house and farm buildings) being established by the Abbey of St Augustine after the island was granted to the abbey.[7] In 1897 the farmhouse was converted into the Flat Holm Hotel and a bar and skittle alley were added but there were disputes about the licensing hours and the Hotel closed after a few years[31]. The farmhouse has been renovated by the Flat Holm Project and is now used as accommodation for the wardens and visitors staying on the island.

Flat Holm Battery

Flat Holm Battery is a series of gun emplacements on Flat Holm Island in the Bristol Channel, which form part of a line of defences, known as Palmerston Forts, built across the channel to protect the approaches to Bristol and Cardiff.

The island was fortified following a visit by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to France, where they had been concerned at the strength of the French Navy. The Royal Commission on the Defence of the United Kingdom, under direction of Lord Palmerston recommended fortification of the coast. Flat Holm formed part of this strategic coastal defence system and construction began in 1865 and was completed in 1869.[32]

Gun batteries

There are remains of four battery sites on the island:[33]

Flat Holm Battery sites

200

— 
  • Castle Rock Battery three guns in two Moncrieff pits and one open-backed pit[34]
  • Farm House Battery two guns in one full Moncrieff pit and one open-backed pit[34]
  • Well Battery one gun in an open backed Moncrieff pit[34]
  • Lighthouse Battery three guns in two full Moncrieff pits and one open-backed pit[34]

These four emplacements run from the northern to the southern point of the island, along the western coast. Nine Rifled muzzle loaders (RMLs) on disappearing Moncrieff carriages were built at the Royal Gun Foundry, Woolwich. They were mounted in four separate batteries, all in Moncrieff pits, 2 metres (7 ft) in diameter and 3 metres (10 ft) deep, constructed of limestone blocks and bricks. These pits had the advantage of being almost invisible to shipping and also offered protection to the gun crews. The guns were heavy (7 tons) for land service, constructed of wrought iron sections. They consisted of a rifle tube and cascabel. The overall length of each gun is 361 centimetres (142 in). They used a 52.3 kilograms (115 lb) Palliser shell and were mounted on the Moncrieff disappearing carriage.[33] The guns were never needed so were only fired for test purposes.[35]

Canon and Moncrieff Pit near the lighthouse

In 1869, stone barracks were built to sleep up to 50 men, but only one master gunner and five gunners were ever stationed on the island.[36] The barracks for the battery were near the southernmost emplacement. This arrangement was vacated in 1901 but the buildings have been restored by the Flat Holm Project for educational use.

The fortifications also included a large tiled water catchment and underground storage tank, a ditch and bank system to protect the Lighthouse Battery from cross island attack, an administrative building and a secure store. Once a year the vicar and curate of St. Mary's, Cardiff, visited the island and held a service in the barracks.

On the outbreak of World War II over 350 soldiers of the Royal Artillery were stationed on the island,[37] which was re-armed with four 4.5 inch guns and associated searchlights to be used for anti-aircraft and close defence, together with two 40 millimetres (1.6 in) Bofors guns.[33] A GL (Gun Loading) MkII[38] radar station was also placed in the centre of the island.[39] The structures formed part of the Fixed Defences, Severn scheme and protected the Atlantic shipping convoy de-grouping zone between Cardiff, Barry and Flat Holm.[40] These works were abandoned after the war, and most of the equipment removed by German prisoners of war and the site has had no military use since. The helipad still remains in the centre of the island.

Isolation hospital

Flat Holm Cholera Hospital ruins

In 1884 three sailors arrived in Cardiff on a boat from Marseilles[41] and were suspected of having cholera and were deported for isolation on Flat Holm to prevent spread of the disease. The only accommodation was a canvas tent and when one of the patients died soon after arriving, residents of the island petitioned Cardiff council for compensation, complaining of loss of income from visitors and difficulty in selling vegetables grown on their farm at the market in Cardiff.[42] From 1896, following these complaints the Cardiff Corporation paid the then owner the Marquis of Bute fifty pounds a year for all land that was not used for military purposes or within the lease of Trinity House[43] and built a permanent sanatorium for cholera patients as the isolation hospital for the port of Cardiff. It is unique in being the only victorian isolation hospital sited on a British Offshore Island.[44] The last patient to die in the hospital, a victim of bubonic plague, was cremated on the island at the end of the 19th century. The hospital finally closed in 1935 and it has remained derelict since.[45][46] Both the hospital main block and laundry block are grade II listed buildings and are on the Buildings at Risk Register.[47]

Administration

Flat Holm Project

File:Flat Holm Project Logo.jpg
Flat Holm Project Logo

In 1975, South Glamorgan County Council leased the island for the next 99 years, and Flat Holm is now designated as a Local Nature Reserve, as stipulated in that lease. It is managed by Cardiff Council as The Flat Holm Project.[48] The project team operates the Lewis Alexander, a boat which is purpose-built for the crossing to Flat Holm, able to carry up to 45 passengers and essential supplies to the island.

Flat Holm Society

The Flat Holm Society is a charity that supports the work of the Flat Holm Project, who manage the island as a Local Nature Reserve.

Geography

Flat Holm is located in the Bristol Channel. It is a small, almost circular, limestone island, approximately 620 metres (2,030 ft) in diameter, covering 35 hectares (86 acres). It rises in a gentle slope from the exposed western rocky shore to more sheltered easterly cliffs, at the top of which stands the prominent lighthouse. At its highest point it is 32 metres (105 ft) above sea level.

The nearby Steep Holm is considered part of England. About 1.3 kilometres (0.81 mi) northwest of the island are two very small islands collectively known as The Wolves, measuring approximately 25 metres (82 ft) by 20 metres (66 ft).

The tidal range in the Bristol Channel is 15 metres (49 ft),[49] second only to Bay of Fundy in Eastern Canada.[50][51] This has an effect on the coastline of the island and surrounding marine environment. Attempts have been made to identify the major surface water flow patterns around the island. Initial results from aerial photography indicate that a mathematical approach can give a useful approximation to the observed flow patterns. Additional information on tidal currents throughout the tidal cycle and detailed bathymetry in the area are required to further the predictive model.[52]

Geology

Flat Holm geology

Flat Holm would have originally been joined to the west coast and was separated during the Neolithic period.[53]

Flat Holm and Steep Holm form a link between the Carboniferous limestones of the west of England and Sully Island and Barry. Part of the island is designated a Geological Conservation Review (GCR) Site and recognised within the Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).[54]

The GCR and SSSI interest lies along the south-western shoreline from the north west point to Lighthouse Point and a wave cut platform in the limestone that displays large fossil ‘ripple marks’.[55]

There are old mines for galena, a sulphide of lead, which is argentiferous (silver bearing) and the pits and mounds visible are a result of trial borings in search of this silver. Red marls from the Triassic period fill joints in the carboniferous limestone showing evidence of karstic (cave forming) processes during this period. Caves on the western and north-eastern sides of the island were used during the years of smuggling.[56]

Flora and fauna

Flat Holm was designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1972. The designation covers the maritime grassland which is mainly concentrated around the edges of the island.[45]

Flora

Rock Sea Lavender

There are no endemic plant species but the relative isolation of the island has allowed a number of hardy species such as Bird's-foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) and Biting Stonecrop (Sedum acre) to thrive. There are also a number of relatively rare plants, such as Rock Sea-Lavender (Limonium binervosum) that is restricted to the West and Wales coasts, and Wild Leek (Allium ampeloprasum). The leek grows to 6 feet (1.8 m) and Flat Holm is one of only five places in the UK where it is found.[45] Related to the onion, the leek has a bulb that grows for several years producing only leaves, then blooms with large purple flowers that smell of garlic. After flowering the bulb dies and produces up to 150 bulblets.

Others plants may have been introduced by the Augustinian Community for their medicinal uses.[57] These include Dove's-foot Crane's-bill Geranium molle, an anodyne plant claimed by Nicholas Culpeper to have a wide range of medicinal uses and an "excellent good cure for those that have inward wounds, hurts, or bruises, both to stay the bleeding, to dissolve and expel the congealed blood, and to heal the parts, as also to cleanse and heal outward sores, ulcers and fistulas".[58] The Wild Peony (Paeonia mascula) was introduced to the island (and nearby Steep Holm), possibly by monks[59] and has naturalised. It is found at only one location which is fenced for protection. The roots of Wild Peony were ground to a powder and used to treat colds and sore throats.

Fauna

Slow Worm

The island has a significant breeding colony of over 4,000 pairs of Lesser Black-backed Gulls (Larus fuscus), 400 pairs of Herring Gulls (Larus argentatus), 2 pairs of Great Black-backed Gulls (Larus marinus) and varying numbers of Common Shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) and Eurasian Oystercatchers (Haematopodidae). The feeding habits of Lesser Black-backed Gulls was studied in 1989 and it was shown that smaller clutches were laid than in previous years and that supplementary feeding did not increase egg or clutch size.[60][61]

The island is also home to Slow worms (Anguis fragilis); on Flat Holm, Slow-worm populations are particularly unusual as they have larger than usual blue markings. There is a population of rabbits which were introduced to the island for farming in the 12th Century.[62] These suffer from Mixamatosis with the result that the numbers are contained. The island has been grazed since 1989, initially by goats, but by sheep since 1997. In 1992, Soay sheep were introduced, and as of 2008 there are 28 of them grazing wild on the island.[63]

Sustainability

PV array at Flat Holm

The Flat Holm project aims to develop the island as a showcase of sustainable technologies. The original power supply consisted of several diesel generators at different properties which were not connected to each other. In 2006 underground 230 Vac cables were installed to form a ‘mini-grid’ between the farmhouse, workshops and the Fog Horn Keepers Cottage. This was powered with a (13.5 kW) inverter/charger system located at the farmhouse with the farmhouse diesel generator as back-up.

In 2007 the system was extended to include a battery bank charged by two photovoltaic solar arrays, and by a 6 kW wind turbine sited at the high point of the island where an existing redundant telecommunications tower was located.[64]

In popular culture

In the BBC TV series Torchwood, an episode entitled Adrift featured the island as home to a secret medical facility.

BBC's Countryfile programme broadcast on 17 February 2008 featured Flat Holm and the possibility of a Severn Barrage.[65]

References

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  61. ^ Bolton, Mark (1992). "Nutritional constraints on egg formation in the lesser black-backed gull: an experimental study". Journal of Animal Ecology. 61: 521–532. {{cite journal}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |month= (help); Unknown parameter |coauthors= ignored (|author= suggested) (help)
  62. ^ Worrall, D. H.; Surtees, P. R. (1984), Flat Holm - an account of its history and ecology, South Glamorgan County Council, p. 30
  63. ^ "Habitat action plan for Cardiff" (PDF). Cardiff Council. Retrieved 2008-04-12.
  64. ^ "Flat Holm Island PV & Wind System". Wind and Sun Ltd. Retrieved 2008-04-14.
  65. ^ "John Craven wowed by Flat Holm". News Wales. Retrieved 2008-04-26.


External links

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