Flat spar

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Flat Holm (Ynys Echni)
Flat Holm Aerial.jpg
Waters Atlantic Ocean
Geographical location 51 ° 22 ′ 37 ″  N , 3 ° 7 ′ 19 ″  W Coordinates: 51 ° 22 ′ 37 ″  N , 3 ° 7 ′ 19 ″  W
Flat Holm (Wales)
Flat spar
length 630 m
width 610 m
surface 35 ha
Highest elevation 32  m

Flat Holm ( Welsh . Ynys Echni) is an island in the Bristol Channel about 6 km (4 mi) from Lavernock Point in the Vale of Glamorgan . The limestone cliff , however, belongs to the more distant City and County of Cardiff . The southernmost point of Wales is on the island .

The island has a long history of settlement that goes back at least to the time of the Anglo-Saxons and the Vikings . There were various religious uses, including by students of the Cadoc in the 6th century and the Bristol Channel Mission (1835). A sanatorium for cholera patients was built in 1896 as an isolation ward for the Port of Cardiff . Guglielmo Marconi sent the first wireless signals across the open sea from Flat Holm to Lavernock . To curb the frequent shipwrecks, a lighthouse was built, which was replaced by a beacon from Trinity House in 1737 . Due to the strategic position on the approach lines to Bristol and Cardiff, a series of cannon positions, the so-called Flat Holm Battery , were built in 1860 as part of the defense line of the Palmerston Forts . When the Second World War broke out , the island became a military base again.

Today it is managed by the Flat Holm Project Team of the Cardiff Council and is a nature reserve , a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Protection Area . The grassland near the sea is home to species worthy of protection such as rock sea-lavender ( Limonium binervosum ) and wild field onions and important seabird colonies. In addition, it is home to a population of blindworms (slow worm) with unusually extensive blue drawing.

history

Bronze Age and Early Christian Period

The first traces of human settlement date from the late Bronze Age , 900 to 700 BC. C., known as Ewart Park Phase . A bronze ax was found in 1988 between the individual farm building from the modern era and West Beach ( ). In the after Roman period from the 6th century AD, the island became a retreat for Saint Cadoc , who is said to have lived as a hermit on the island for seven years. His friend, Saint Gildas , lived at the same time on the nearby Steep Holm and the two sometimes met for prayer. Gildas later became Abbot of Glastonbury .

Part of a medieval tombstone (42 × 26 × 11 cm) in the National Museum of Wales

In June 1815, Thomas Turner visited Flat Holm in a small boat and was stuck on the island for a week because of high winds. He discovered two Christian graves 23 m northeast of the farm building. A grave had been opened. It still contained a male skeleton. The tombstone of the opened grave was made of Purbeck marble and carried a Celtic cross , but it was broken. Another damaged grave, also marked by a tombstone, was found in the southeast of the island. It contained a coffin that was put together with iron nails. Inside were two skeletons that had been covered with burn lime, suggesting that the dead may have died from a contagious disease.

Anglo-Saxon Era and Middle Ages

The Anglo-Saxons called the island Bradanreolice . Reolice comes from the Irish word for "churchyard" or "graveyard", which suggests that the island had a religious meaning as a burial place. The current name "Holm", however, comes from Old Norse and means "island in an estuary". Records suggest that a Viking fleet from southern Brittany , led by two Earls , Ottir ( Oter ) and Hroald (possibly Ragnall ) , sought refuge after a defeat by the Saxons at Watchet .

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle reports that in 1067 Gytha Thorkelsdóttir , the mother of Harold Godwinson , stayed on the island before going to St. Omer in France after the Norman conquest of England . After the invasion, Lord Robert Fitzhamon , a cousin of William I , founded the Shire of Glamorgan in Wales with Cardiff Castle as its center of power. Flat Holm came to the parish of St Mary's, one of Cardiff's two parish churches, and became the hereditary property of the Norman Lords of Glamorgan.

An archaeological investigation by Howard Thomas in 1979 brought a number of medieval shards to light near the farm building and provided evidence of permanent settlement of the island such as Middens with animal bones and oyster and cockle shells.In addition, fragments of green glazed bottles and were found Flacons from the late 12th and 13th centuries and stoneware from the 14th century. Pennant sandstone shingles and a fragment of a glazed brick suggest that there was a larger building, possibly a chapel. This was probably demolished when the current farm building was being built. Ownership deeds from 1542 show that Henry VIII issued a fiefdom to an Edmund Tournor to build on the island. His family stayed on Flat Holm until the end of the 17th century, when the fief was given to Joseph Robins.

18th century - smuggling

Cave and mine passage in the eastern cliffs of Flat Holm

In the 18th century the island became an ideal smuggler's base. It has been suggested that an old tunnel in the north of the island was connected to a series of natural tunnels and a hidden exit to the sea. Although Flat Holm was fully visible from both the Welsh and English coasts, the customs authorities were powerless as they did not own a boat. Tradition has it that a small cave in the eastern cliffs of the island was used as a storage room for contraband such as tea and brandy.

19th century - Seafarer's Mission

Post Office Engineers inspect Marconi's equipment on Flat Holm, May 1897

In 1835, John Ashley of Clevedon founded the Bristol Channel Mission after living and working with seafarers on the island for three months. He had recognized the needs of seafarers on 400 sailing boats in the Bristol Channel at the time. This later resulted in the Mission to Seafarers , which still looks after seafarers in 300 ports. A church service is held every year to bless the island.

The first wireless Morse transmission over the sea

On May 13, 1897, the 22-year-old Italian inventor Guglielmo Marconi transmitted the first wireless Morse code across the open sea from Flat Holm to Lavernock Point near Penarth , Wales. He was assisted by Post Office Engineer George Kemp from Cardiff . Marconi had failed to get the Italian government excited about his invention and brought his telegraph system to Great Britain. He met William Preece , a Welshman who was the Chief Engineer of the General Post Office at the time and a major figure in the field. Marconi and Preece installed a 34 m high transmitter on a flat spar and a 30 m high receiver at Lavernock Point. The first attempts on May 11th and 12th failed. On May 13, the mast in Lavernock was raised to 50 m, whereupon the signals were clearly received. The message in Morse code was "Are you ready"; the original paper with the morse code signed by Marconi and Kemp is in the National Museum of Wales .

The island made communications history again on October 8, 2002 when it became one of the first areas in South Wales to be connected to the Internet by wireless connections from Cardiff Council. This happened as part of the Flat Holm Project . The connection is used for Internet, access to the Cardiff Council data network and VOIP telephony. There are two telephones in the farm building that are part of the Council PBX. Therefore, they have phone numbers with the Cardiff area code. 105 years after Marconi, IT consultant Spencer Pearson made the first phone call from the island to his office at County Hall , Atlantic Wharf , Cardiff.

Shipping accidents

The deceptive conditions for ships around the island led to many ship accidents. The British liner Tapley lost seven passengers when it ran aground in January 1773 on the crossing from Cork , Ireland to Bristol at Flat Holm.

On October 23, 1817, the British sloop William and Mary sank after running aground on the nearby rocky islets known as The Wolves . The ship was en route from Bristol to Waterford and sank within fifteen minutes. The Mate John Outridge and two sailors were able to escape in the lifeboat. Fifteen survivors who had been holding on to the ship's rigging were later rescued, but 54 other passengers drowned. Fifty of them were recovered from the ship and buried on Flat Holm.

In 1938 the steamship Norman Queen ran aground, but could be freed again, in 1941 the steamship Middlesex sank .

geography

Location map for South Wales

Flat Holm is located in the Bristol Channel . It is a small, nearly circular limestone island about 620 m (2030 ft) in diameter and 35 hectares (86 acres) in area. It rises leisurely from the weather side in the west, with its rocky coast, to the less exposed cliffs in the east, where the lighthouse is today. At its highest point, it is 32 m (105 ft) high . Flat Holm is part of Wales , while nearby Steep Holm (Welsh. Ynys Rhonech) is part of England. About 1.3 km (0.8 mi) northwest of Flat Holm are the two small islands known as The Wolves . They have dimensions of approximately 25 m × 20 m (82 × 66 ft).

The tidal range in the Bristol Channel is 15 m (49 ft); it is only exceeded by the tidal range in the Bay of Fundy in eastern Canada .

geology

Geological outcrop

During the last Ice Age , about 1.8 million years ago, the water level in the Severn Estuary was about 50 m below today's sea level and Flat Holm was connected to the Somerset coast as the foothills of the Mendip Hills . Since the beginning of the Mesolithic Age 15,000 years ago, the ice sheets retreated and the plains along the river mouth were flooded. The elevations of the Mendip Hills became Flat Holm and Steep Holm islands.

The Carboniferous Limestone (coal Leading limestone), consists of the Flatholm, derived from a larger Mesozoic pool that of Bristol and Mendip west along the estuary of the Severn to South Wales extends. He's still pending at Sully Island and Barry in the west . Portions of Flat Holm are designated a Geological Conservation Review (GCR) area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The GCR and SSSI areas of interest are on the southwestern coastline, starting from the Northwest Cape to Lighthouse Point where large fossil "ripple marks" are visible as undulating patterns.

There is silver-containing galena on Flat Holm. The pits and piles of earth on the island surface are the results of test excavations . A dispute over mining rights in the 1780s ended with John Stuart, Lord Mount Stuart filing an official complaint that the lighthouse keeper was using the coals for the beacon to make lead. However, lead mining was not profitable. Red marl from the Triassic filled gaps in the limestone, indicating karst suggesting during that time. Caves on the west and northeast side of the island were used as smugglers' hideouts.

building

Lighthouse and foghorn

Flat Holm Lighthouse

Flat Holm Lighthouse is 30 m (98 ft) high and 50 m (160 ft) above mean tide level; it has a 100 watt lamp that flashes three times every ten seconds and changes color between 106 ° and 140 °; up to 151 ° white; up to 203 ° red; and lights up white again up to 106 °. The white light was visible up to 18 nm . Trinity House today records 15 nm for the white light and 12 nm for the red light. (28 or 22 km).

The first light on the island was a simple brazier on a wooden frame on the cliff in the east of the island. In 1733 the Society of Merchant Venturers of Bristol asked the General Lighthouse Authority , Trinity House , for a proper lighthouse. However, this was rejected at the time. In 1735 William Crispe of Bristol made an application that a lighthouse could be built at his own expense. This petition was also dismissed, but negotiations resumed in 1736 when 60 soldiers drowned after their ship ran aground with the Wolves . After the disaster, the Society of Merchant Venturers also supported William Crispe's entry. Crispe agreed to pay £ 800 for the construction of the tower and the entry fees. The tower was completed in 1737 and began work on March 25, 1738.

Nebelhorn Building

The lighthouse was struck by lightning in a heavy storm on December 22, 1790. The lighthouse keeper narrowly escaped, but the lighthouse was badly damaged. A 10 ft (3 m) high crack on the side needed repairing, as well as the oak beams that supported the platform. In 1819 the round stone tower was converted so that it could accommodate a stronger lamp. For this purpose, the tower was increased from 21 m to 27 m. A clock mechanism to turn the light was installed in 1881. Flat Holm Lighthouse was the last lighthouse in Wales to be privately operated. In July 1822, Trinity House finally acquired the rights for £ 15,838.10. Two years later, a fountain oil lamp was installed and the fire raised another 1.5 m. In 1867 a lantern with a diameter of 4 m was installed. In 1929 the lighthouse was renovated to provide accommodation for up to 4 guards. In 1988 the lighthouse was fully automated and the guards were withdrawn. In 1997 the light was modernized and converted to solar energy. Today it is overseen by the Trinity House Operations Control Center in Harwich , Essex .

In 1906 Trinity House erected a Nebelhorn , the building of which is now a Grade II listed building . The siren was originally powered by a 15 hp (11 kW) motor. The signal was two beats in quick succession with an interval of two minutes. It could be heard clearly by people on both coasts. Many years after the Second World War , the foghorn was operated with one long and one short tone. The nautical almanac of 1965 records an interval of 1.5 minutes. Flat Holm Society volunteers repaired foghorn and motor in the 1960s with support from the Prince's Trust . The foghorn station was established in May 2000 by the Welsh Secretary and the Welsh Assembly First Secretary reopened after being out of action for the 1988th

Homestead

Flat Holm Farm House

Records report that monks at St Augustine's Abbey in Bristol set up a dairy and grangie after receiving it as a fiefdom from Robert of Gloucester around 1145. Thomas Turner, who spent some time on the island in 1815, writes that the tax-exempt farm thrived and counted "seven cows, two bulls, five sheep, one horse, two pigs and two dogs". From 1881 there is still a tax list in which Henry and Emily Morgan, with four sons, four daughters, a governess and a 14-year-old maid (Emma Craddock) are entered as residents. In 1897 the farmhouse was converted into The Flat Holm Hotel , a bar and a short cobblestone street were built, but the hotel only existed for a few years. The farmhouse was renovated as part of the Flat Holm Project and is now used as a guest house.

Gun emplacements and barracks

Montcrieff 'disappearing gun'

Flat Holm was in the 1860s, after a visit by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in France , secured because the Queen concerned about the strength of the French navy was. The Royal Commission on the Defense of the United Kingdom under Lord Palmerston recommended fortifying the coast in 1865. The defenses that were part of the so-called Palmerston Forts were completed in 1869.

The Flat Holm Battery is a series of cannon emplacements designed to defend Bristol and Cardiff . Remains of four of these gun emplacements have survived:

  • Castle Rock Battery: Three cannons in two Moncrieff pits and one open position
  • Farm House Battery: two cannons in a disappearing carriage and one open position
  • Well Battery: a cannon in an open disappearing carriage. The cannon was removed from Army trainees in 1964.
  • Lighthouse Battery: three cannons in two disappearance mounts and one open position
Flat Holm Battery positions

These four positions are distributed along the west coast of the island. Nine rifled muzzle loader cannons on Moncrieff carriages were manufactured in Woolwich in the Royal Arsenal . The disappearance beds were 2 m in diameter and 3 m deep, made of limestone blocks and bricks. The cannons were 361 cm long and 7 inches (17.78 cm) in caliber. Palliser shots (armor-piercing ammunition) weighing 52.3 kg were used . The cannons were never needed and only fired for test purposes.

Cannon near the lighthouse

In 1869 stone barracks were built for up to 50 soldiers. In 1881 only the Master Gunner , Thomas Barrett, his family and five soldiers lived there . Barrett's son, Albert, was born on the island on December 31, 1881. The barracks were next to the southernmost gun carriage. Other fortifications included a large basin, an underground tank, an administration building and a security warehouse. A “ditch-and-bank” system (ditch and ramparts) served to protect the Lighthouse Battery from attacks on land. The position was given up in 1901. The buildings were recently renovated for educational events as part of the Flat Holm Project .

Radar station

At the beginning of the Second World War , more than 350 soldiers of the Royal Artillery were stationed on the island and the island was equipped with four 4.5-inch guns , two 40-mm Bofors guns and searchlights for anti-aircraft and close-range defense. A GL Mk II radar station (Gun Laying Radar) was installed in the center of the island. The facilities were designed to protect Atlantic Shipping Convoys between Cardiff, Barry and Flat Holm. After the war, these facilities were abandoned. Only the helipad remains.

Quarantine station

Ruins of the Flat Holm Cholera Hospital

In July 1883, the Rishanglys steamship left three sailors suspected of cholera on the island, one of whom subsequently died. The only accommodation at the time was a tent and residents of the island were demanding compensation from Cardiff Council . In 1896 the Marquis of Bute , the then owner of the island, agreed to lease all of the non-military land to the Cardiff Corporation for £ 50 a year . The corporation built a sanatorium to care for cholera patients. The building was described in The Lancet as a "Pavilion" with two hospital rooms with 6 beds each and a nurses' room. In 1893 three sailors from Marseille arrived in Cardiff on the SS Blue Jacket who were suspected of having cholera. First machinist Thomas Smith and Robert Doran, as well as second mate, PJ Morris, were quarantined on the island. This sanatorium was the only Victorian isolation ward on an island off the British coast. The last patient died of the plague at the end of the 19th century and was cremated on the island. The hospital was finally closed in 1935. The buildings are listed as historical buildings.

Flat Holm Project

In 1975 South Glamorgan County Council leased the island for 99 years. In March 1995, the County Council decided to purchase the island from the Crown Estate on a 50-year contract . Flat Holm is now designated as a Local Nature Reserve and is managed by the Cardiff Council as The Flat Holm Project . The project team maintains the ship Lewis Alexander , which can bring necessary materials and up to 45 passengers to the island.

Flora and fauna

Flat Holm was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) back in 1972 . The maritime grasslands on the edges of the island are of particular interest .

Rock sea-lavender (Limonium binervosum).

There are no endemic plants, but the relative isolation gives preference to undemanding species such as bird's-foot trefoil (horn clover, Lotus corniculatus) and biting stonecrop ( stonecrop , Sedum acre). Less common plants are sea ​​lavender ( Limonium binervosum ) and wild onion ( Allium ampeloprasum ). The leek grows up to 1.8 m (6 ft) tall and Flat Holm is one of five locations in the UK.

Other crops may have been grown on the island by the Augustinians for medicinal purposes. These include: dove's-foot crane's-bill ( cranesbill ), an anodynum that was praised by Nicholas Culpeper for its pain relieving effect, and the peony (Paeonia mascula). Thirty-seven plants were planted by Frank Harris, the farmer on Steep Holm in the 1930's, but many of them perished during World War II. Another plant was planted by David Worall, the Flat Holm Warden , in 1982 and is now protected by a fence. More plants thrive in the farmhouse's garden.

Slow worm

The island has a larger colony of 4,000 pairs of the black-backed gull (Larus fuscus), 400 pairs of the herring gull (Larus argentatus), 2 pairs of the black-backed gull (Larus marinus) and several shelduck (Tadorna tadorna), as well as oyster fishermen (Haematopodidae).

There is also on the island of slow worms (Anguis fragilis), which are characterized by an unusual blue drawing. The rabbits, introduced by agriculture in the 12th century, are now populated by myxomatosis . The island has been grazed since 1989, initially by goats, but since 1997 by soay sheep that graze wild on the island.

sustainability

Solar panels on flat bar

The Flat Holm Project aims to show the island as an example of sustainable technologies. The original energy generation consisted of several diesel generators in different buildings that were not connected to each other. In 2006 cables were laid to set up a 'mini-grid'. This is now operated by a (13.5 kW) inverter / charger system in the farmhouse, with the diesel generator in the farmhouse as an emergency power generator.

In 2007, the system was expanded to include a battery series that is fed by photovoltaic modules and a 6 kW wind turbine on a radio tower that is no longer required on the highest point of the island

Severn Barrage (tidal power station)

If a tidal power plant ( Severn Barrage ) were built, this could have significant consequences for Flat Holm. Several studies have been commissioned on this. The most recent is from 2007 when John Hutton , Secretary of State for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform requested a report from the Sustainable Development Commission .

The idea of ​​building an 8.6 GW tidal power plant that would cover five percent of the UK's electricity consumption is being opposed by many environmental groups.

Popular culture

  • In 1979 the island was mentioned on the BBC 's Let's Look at Wales
  • The Severn Barrage was featured in Countryfile by the BBC in 2008.
  • The March 2008 episode "Adrift" of the BBC series Torchwood shows the island as the location of a secret medical facility.
  • Iolo Williams visited the island in June 2008 on the BBC program Not in My Nature .

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  62. Hiom, Louise; Mark Bolton; Pat Monaghan; David Worrall: Experimental evidence for food limitation of egg production in gulls . In: Ornis Scandinavica, Vol. 22, No. 2 (Ed.): Ornis Scandinavica . 22, No. 2, 1991, pp. 94-97. doi : 10.2307 / 3676539 .
  63. ^ Bolton, Mark; David Houston; Pat Monaghan: Nutritional constraints on egg formation in the lesser black-backed gull: an experimental study . In: Journal of Animal Ecology (Ed.): Journal of Animal Ecology . 61, No. 3, 1992, pp. 521-532. doi : 10.2307 / 5607 .
  64. Habitat action plan for Cardiff ( English , PDF) In: Cardiff Council . Retrieved April 12, 2008.
  65. Flatholm Iceland PV & wind system ( English ) In: Wind and Sun Ltd . Archived from the original on April 1, 2008. Retrieved April 14, 2008.
  66. Philippe Naugthon: Severn Barrage study alarms campaigners (English) . In: The Times , September 25, 2007. Retrieved September 26, 2007. 
  67. ^ New study for Severn energy plan (English) . In: BBC News , September 25, 2007. Retrieved September 26, 2007. 
  68. Tidal Power in the Severn? ( Memento of the original from June 9, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved May 12, 2008  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.marinet.org.uk
  69. BBC1 Wales Looking Back . Retrieved June 28, 2008.
  70. John Craven wowed by Flat Holm ( English ) In: News Wales . Retrieved April 26, 2008.
  71. Torchwood Episode 11 Review - "Adrift" ( English ) Archived from the original on June 12, 2008. Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Retrieved June 28, 2008. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.joo-see.com
  72. Places to visit - Flat Holm ( English ) Retrieved June 28, 2008.

literature

Web links

Commons : Flat Holm  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Remarks

  1. An entry well , even Stoll bay called, is a light hole was geteuft on a cleat. These shafts are required to support the tunnel operation. (Source: Albert Serlo: Leitfaden der Bergbaukunde. First volume, fourth revised and up to the most recent edition supplemented.)