Feuerstein (Stubai Alps)
| Flint | ||
|---|---|---|
 V. l. To the right: Eastern flint, Western flint and Agglsspitze from northwest |
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| height | 3268 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria / Italy border | |
| Mountains | Stubai Alps | |
| Dominance | 3.6 km → Wilder Freiger | |
| Notch height | 428 m ↓ wide door | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 58 '18 " N , 11 ° 14' 39" E | |
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| Type | Double summit | |
| rock | Slate gneiss | |
| First ascent | around 1855 as part of the cadastral survey, September 14, 1869 by Julius Ficker, led by Pankraz Gleinser and Andrä Pfurtscheller | |
| Normal way | High tour from the north over the Grüblferner | |
 The flints from the southeast, seen from the flint distant |
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The name Feuersteine refers to a double peak in the central main ridge of the Stubai Alps , which lies exactly on the state border between Italy and Austria, or between the autonomous province of South Tyrol and the state of Tyrol . A distinction is made between the eastern flint (Italian: Montarso di Levante , northeastern), which is 3268 m above sea level. A. owns and the 3245 meter high western flint ( Montarso di Ponente , located southwest). The two peaks are connected by a 400 meter long ridge with a small notch . The flintstones are easy to reach from the Bremer Hütte and the Nürnberger Hütte , have hardly any difficulties when climbing and are therefore popular viewing destinations. Pronounced ridges extend to the north, south and west. The western summit was first climbed for tourism on September 14, 1869 by the historian Julius Ficker from Innsbruck and the mountain guides Pankraz Gleinser and Andrä Pfurtscheller.
First ascents
The flint stones were first inspected on the occasion of the Austrian cadastral survey around 1855. According to literature, the first tourist inspection of the western summit took place on September 14, 1869 by the historian Julius Ficker, led by Pankraz Gleinser and Andreas Pfurtscheller. The east summit was probably conquered by hunters long before, the first tourist here was a timber man from London in 1871 , who set out from the Pflersch Valley. Another imprecise information about the first ascent reads: One of the two flints was climbed by the Austrian botanist Anton Kerner von Marilaun on September 2, 1870.
Location and surroundings
The Feuersteine are located about seven kilometers as the crow flies south of Ranalt in the Stubaital and a good five kilometers north of Maiern in the Ridnaun Valley , a side valley west of Sterzing . The double peak is completely surrounded by glaciers . In the north the Grüblferner extends up to a height of 3000 meters, in the southeast the Feuersteinferner , which reaches a height of 3100 meters, and in the southwest lies the Hangende Ferner . Neighboring mountains in the northeast ridge are the Pflerscher Hochjoch with a height of 3,166 meters, in the southeast the Agglsspitze 3,196 meters and in the west the Hohe Wand (2973 m).
Bases and routes
The path of the first climber in 1869 led from the northern, now dilapidated Grüblalm , in a southerly direction up to the main ridge, then down to the Hangenden Ferner and over the Magdeburger Scharte and over the south ridge to the summit after 5½ hours of walking. This route to the west summit requires climbing skills of UIAA II difficulty .
The normal route on the Eastern Flintstone leads from the north to the summit cross of the Eastern Flintstone. The Bremer Hütte at 2,413 meters above sea level, located northeast of the summit in the rear Gschnitztal or the Nürnberger Hütte (2280 m) in the rear Vallunga, serve as bases . From the Nürnberger Hütte a path leads south to the Nürnberger Scharte (2914 m). Below the saddle, it goes in a south-easterly direction over the Grüblferner (alpine tour with appropriate equipment and experience) to the very top corner of the 30 ° inclined firn field to the summit of the Ostlicher Feuerstein. The Gratbegehung for Western Feuerstein consists of easy climbing in, according to the literature, difficulty UIAA I . The walking time is 4 hours from the Nürnberger Hütte and 4½ from the Bremer Hütte. An alternative route leads from the Italian (South Tyrolean) side from the valley town of Ridnaun on path no. 9 or 9a via Aglsbodenalm, Aglsalm and Pfurrnsee to the Magdeburger Scharte and from here, like the first climbers, over the south ridge to the summit of the western Feuerstein. This route to the west summit requires climbing skills of UIAA II difficulty.
Literature and map
- Walter Klier : Alpenvereinsführer Stubai Alps , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1271-4
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 31/1 Stubai Alps, Hochstubai
Individual evidence
- ↑ Ludwig Purtscheller in Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin 1894, p. 403
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume II, supplements, p. 501
- ^ Journal of the German Alpine Association , Volume I, Munich 1869/70, p. 30 ff.
- ↑ Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Stubai Alps , Munich 2006, p. 348 ff. / Rz 3550 ff.
