Hans Bärnthaler

Hans Bärnthaler (born May 19, 1954 in Spielberg , Styria , Austria ; † July 28, 1989 in the K2 area, Karakorum Mountains , Pakistan ) was an Austrian mountaineer.

Career

Hans Bärnthaler studied mining at the Montanuniversität Leoben and worked as a state-certified mountain and ski guide, as well as an operations manager of the ÖBRD and expedition leader. He was a member of the ÖAV high tourist group , the mountaineering guild of the TVN and the ÖAK . He was also a leader in the service of the DAV Summit Club .

He was one of the developers of the rock faces around the Rudolfshütte in the Hohe Tauern and completed difficult climbing routes and first ascents in his native Hochschwab , Karawanken , Wilder Kaiser , Gesäuse and Dachstein Mountains , as well as in the Western Alps , Patagonia , Alaska , Himalayas and Karakoram .

In 1972 he crossed eastern Turkey by bike and climbed several mountains in Asia Minor . According to his own statements, he covered around 2,500 km. In 1975 he spent five weeks in the Caucasus . In 1980 he was the leader of the seven-week Styrian Andes expedition to the Pukahirka Group, where three first ascents were carried out.

In 1989 he was a participant of the Austrian K2 expedition under Eduard Koblmüller , during which the first ascent of the eastern flank was attempted. They reached a height of 7,200 m. When trying to photograph the east flank of K2 from the nearby Central Kharut Peak, Hans Bärnthaler was killed in a crash.

He was married and the father of two children.

Most famous rock climbing

• 1975: Dachl / Rosskuppen intersection
• 1975: “Cassin Route” on the western pinnacle north face
• 1975: First ascent of the “Oberlandweg” route in the Triolet north face
• 1975: Ushba crossing from north to south (Caucasus)
• 1978: "Heckmair route" of the Eiger north face in nine hours
• 1979: "Rebitschrisse" on the meat bank pillar
• 1980: Ortler north face
• 1980: First ascent of the east ridge on Kaikaraju (Andes)
• 1980: First ascent of the western face of Nevado Safuna (Andes)
• 1980: Jancarurish ascent (Andes)
• 1981: “Schmid Route” of the Matterhorn north face
• 1985: First Austrian ascent and ninth ascent of Cerro Torre (Patagonia)
• 1985: Fitz Roy climb (Patagonia)
• 1985: Cerro Standhardt ascent (Patagonia)
• 1985: First solo ascent of Urdokas Peak (Karakoram)
• 1988: Ascent of five routes on the Großglockner north face in eight hours
• 1988: Supercouloir on the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul
• 1988: Shishapangma climb (Himalaya)
• 1988: 45th ascent of Cho Oyu (Himalaya)
• 1989: Ascent of Denali (Alaska)
• 1989: First attempt at the K2 east flank (Karakoram)

Further

• Small pinnacle , north wall and yellow edge
• Mont Blanc , Brenvasporn
• Rosskuppe, direct north face
• Dachl, north-west face
• Pole wall, southeast wall
• Koppenkarstein , central pillar
• Großwandeck, east-south-east face
• Peasant sermon chair, west wall
• Schartenspitze, direct southwest face
• Jewelry fireplace
• Totenkirchl , west wall

Selection of domestic first ascents

• Planspitze , direct north-east face
• Ringkamp, ​​southeast face ("Christianweg")
• Gamskögel , south pillar on the east, north-east pillar on the west, south face on the middle
• Schafflkogel, east face ("The Last Tango", "Path of the Beautiful Men") and northeast pillar ("Flower pillar")
• High box , direct north face of the east summit ("Plattenzauber") and northwest pillar ("window pillar")
• Romariswandkopf , left north wall
• Box tower, north pillar
• Kleinglockner , Glocknerkamp north-east face ("Schneiderrinne")
• Hohe Fürleg (Hochfilleck), southeast pillar ("Ascent of Joy"), south face ("Pensionnerweg", "Steirerplatte", "Super Drop", "Via Alexandra", "Donald Duck", "Dschingis-Khan", "Hansiweg", "Autumn excursion", "Lisl drah di", "LSD", "Mon Cherie", "Rocky")
• Skull , south-west pillar
• Kalser Bärenkopf , right east wall pillar of the main summit ("pillar of the winter sun")
• Ödenwinkelwand, north face ("Erwin-Couloir")
• Klockerin , northwest face of the southwest summit ("Via Heidrun")
• Hell wall, south wall ("Dance of the Vampires")
• Hahnenkammspitzen, north face of the east, north-east pillar of the west, north pillar of the middle

Web links

• Personal folder on Hans Bärnthaler (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
• AlpinWiki