Kleinglockner

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Kleinglockner
Kleinglockner (left), behind Grossglockner

Kleinglockner (left), behind Grossglockner

height 3770  m above sea level A.
location Border between Carinthia and East Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Austrian Central Alps , Hohe Tauern , Glockner Group
Dominance 0.08 km →  Grossglockner
Notch height 17 m ↓  Obere Glocknerscharte
Coordinates 47 ° 4 '26 "  N , 12 ° 41' 46"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 4 '26 "  N , 12 ° 41' 46"  E
Kleinglockner (Carinthia)
Kleinglockner
rock Prasinite
First ascent August 25, 1799 by Martin and Sepp Klotz, Sigmund von Hohenwart, Johann Zopoth and two carpenters
Normal way from the southeast over the Glocknerkamm
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The Kleinglockner is at an altitude of 3770  m above sea level. A. the third highest peak in Austria. With a notch height of only 17 meters, however, it is disputed whether it can be counted as an independent mountain or only as a secondary summit of the Großglockner . It is located in the Glockner Group in the Central Alps , the middle part of the Hohe Tauern . From a geographical and geological point of view, it is regarded as the pre-summit of the neighboring Großglockner, but in some cases it is treated separately in the literature, given its importance in alpine activities. As part of the Glocknerkamm, the summit lies exactly on the border between Carinthia and East Tyrol . The Kleinglockner has the shape of a sharp edge, which is covered with the so-called Glocknerwechte and, depending on the conditions, can make climbing the mountain dangerous or even impossible. The history of ascent of the Kleinglockner is closely linked to that of the Großglockner, as the first to climb, coming from the south and east, had to cross it.

Ascent history

Kleinglockner

Kleinglockner seen from the Grossglockner, photograph by Vittorio Sella , around 1890

In the summer of 1799, as part of the efforts to climb the Großglockner at 2,750 meters above sea level in the upper Leitertal , on the southwest side of the Glocknerkamm, a simple hut made of boards and logs was built in just one week. The construction was commissioned and financed by the Prince-Bishop of Gurk , Franz Xaver Altgraf von Salm Reifferscheid . Remains of a successor building can still be seen today above the Salmhütte . Two carpenters from Heiligenblut , Martin and Sepp Klotz, who were also involved in the construction , were sent out on June 15, 1799 to explore possible routes to the summit, but they failed due to a snow storm just below the Kleinglockner summit. The experiment was repeated on July 23, whereby a 74 fathom long rope , a so-called fixed rope , was brought up, as well as a 7 to 8 fathom long ladder to overcome the eight meter wide Upper Glocknerscharte , at 3,766 meters above sea level. On August 20, the prince-bishop arrived at the hut with 30 people, including 19 farmers as porters. Because of bad weather, it was decided to leave after dinner on the 22nd , when the weather improved. But due to another cold storm on the Glocknerkamm, with snow and ice, one had to give up this first expedition and descended to Heiligenblut. The two Klotz brothers, the organizer of the company, Ferdinand Joseph Georg Sigismund von Hohenwart , the recorder Johann Zopoth and two other carpenters, however, made another attempt on August 25 and reached the Kleinglockner summit in deep, fresh snow, where they received a donation from the Prince-Bishop Erected wooden cross.

Grossglockner

The second expedition to the Grossglockner was then planned for 1800, this time even more complex and expensive than the first. Well-known foreign scientists at the time, such as the botanist David Heinrich Hoppe from Regensburg and Christian Friedrich Schwägrichen from Leipzig , were invited to this venture . The old Salmhütte was greatly expanded for this purpose. On July 27th, 1800 62 people with 16 horses reached the hut, and on the 28th the ascent of the Großglockner was tackled. The Klotz brothers and the two carpenters, who were not known by name, wanted to bring pastor Franz Joseph Orrasch from Rangersdorf to the summit first, but he refused and stayed on the Kleinglockner with Sigmund von Hohenwart and Daniel Heinrich Hoppe. The four guides were the first to climb the summit of the Grossglockner. Already on the Hohenwarte , later called Salmhöhe , just below the Adlersruhe , at 3,282 meters above sea level, the Prince-Bishop and the other prominent figures from science and the clergy had stayed behind. On August 29, 1800, the two farmers and the two carpenters, this time with the surveyor Ulrich Schiegg and his pupil Valentin Stanič , a 26-year-old mathematics student , climbed the Grossglockner again to erect a 2 fathom (almost four meters) high summit cross .

geology

Großlockner and Kleinglockner belong to the so-called Upper Slate Shell , which was raised by rising deep rock, the central gneiss , during the Alpid mountain formation in the early Palaeogene , about 66 million years ago . The slate cover layers were removed by erosion and are only present as a frame for the so-called Tauern window . This uplift has given the Glockner Group its great height. The main rock of the mountains appears to be prasinite , a fine-grained, very hard and weather-resistant green slate that gives the Glockner its dark green color.

Surroundings

The Kleinglockner is only 80 meters as the crow flies in a south-easterly direction, separated by the Obere Glocknerscharte, from the Großglockner. To the east, the Kleinglocknerkees glacier slopes up to a height of 3,660 meters. To the south lies the Ködnitzkees and to the west of the Luisengrat , the southern continuation of the Stüdlgrat , the Teischnitzkees. Aside from the Großglockner, the only neighboring mountains in the southeast are the Adlersruhe , with a height of 3,451 meters and, in the further course of the Glocknerkamm, the Hohenwartkopf (named after Sigmund von Hohenwart, 3,308 m) and, separated by the Hohenwartscharte (3,182 m), the 3,267 meter high Kellersberg . To the southeast the terrain falls down into the Leitertal and Ködnitztal, the northern extension of the Kalser valley. The Pasterze , Austria's largest glacier, extends to the north and east , and the Dorfer Valley lies to the west . The next significant settlements in the south are East Tyrolean Kals am Großglockner, about 11 kilometers away as the crow flies, and in the east, about 12 kilometers away, Heiligenblut in Carinthia.

Support points, transitions and routes

The path of the first ascent from 1799 began in Heiligenblut , led to the old Salmhütte on the southwest side of the Glocknerkamm and further over the small Hohenwartkees , through the Hohenwartscharte up to the Salmhöhe, over the Adlersruhe and over the east side to the summit. Today's normal route is taken from the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte , opened in 1880 , on the Adlersruhe (3,451 m). As an alpine tour, the path requires special equipment, glacier experience and climbing skills in the UIAA II difficulty level with an ice incline of up to 40 °. According to the literature, the walking time to the summit is about 1½ hours. The Glocknerwechte, a snowfall that can be blown up to 50 ° on the north side, can cause particular difficulties . There are further approaches and climbing routes via the Glocknerkarkamp to the east , called Meletzki -Grat , the north flanks , the north-east walls and the famous emerald pillar on the Glocknerkamp north-east pillar . The difficulty of these routes is between UIAA III to IV + and an ice slope of up to 90 ° ( Theo Riml memorial climb ).

Literature and map

Individual evidence

  1. Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 165 ff.
  2. ^ Raimund von Klebelsberg: Geology of Tyrol . Berlin 1935, p. 223
  3. Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, pp. 282 ff., Margin no. 1043 ff.