Salzburg residence

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Salzburg Residence, facade to the Residenzplatz

The Old Residence in the old town of Salzburg is the prince-archbishop's palace complex. The spacious building is located between today's Domplatz, Residenzplatz and today's Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse and is first documented around 1120. Extensive new buildings were built from around 1600 under Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau and were completed under Markus Sittikus and Paris Lodron . Under Franz Anton Graf von Harrach , the facade was modernized with larger windows. The Dietrichsruh in the west as a former two-part garden from around 1605/11 was partially demolished around 1790 and replaced in the north-west by the new buildings of the so-called Toskanertrakt.

history

Old bishopric

The first bishops and archbishops of Salzburg were also abbots of St. Peter's Abbey and consequently lived in the monastery. Only Konrad I moved his apartment out of the narrow monastery area in 1120 and built a new bishop's seat in 1124 in what is now the eastern part of the residence. This bishopric, which was subsequently expanded several times, was demolished by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich to make room for the new building of the late renaissance style residence .

Residence of the Prince Archbishops

Ground floor plan of the Salzburg Residence based on the inventory of monuments from 1914 (north is on the right)
Portal from the time of Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau around 1600/1611

In 1597 Wolf Dietrich began to demolish and rebuild parts of the building around today's main courtyard (in the east) of the residence. Gradually a four-wing complex was built around a regular inner courtyard. The east and south wings were largely new buildings; in the west, an arcade hall was built in a second construction phase. A courtyard chapel was planned in the north, two main facades facing south and east with even rows of windows with stone walls. The main rooms on the 2nd floor could be reached via a wide, straight marble staircase, which has been preserved after a plan change around 1612. The floor plans of the Great Hall and the reception rooms by Wolf Dietrich are almost completely preserved in the south and east wings after later renovations, especially in the 18th century.

Since the courtyard arch building was started with a different, higher level on the main floor from 1604, the substance of the wings around the main courtyard will have been completed at that time. Another opinion reckons with a somewhat later construction period around the main courtyard from 1606 - 1611. During restoration work, some walls of late medieval bourgeois predecessor buildings were discovered in the current structure, such as parts of walls, bricked up windows and a fireplace. In the south-west of the main courtyard, vaults from the 15th century have been preserved in the basement, and perhaps the remains of the bishop's court of Matthäus Lang von Wellenburg in the wing facing the cathedral square .

As a further part, the current Wallistrakt (also known as the courtyard arch building) was rebuilt in the southwest of the main courtyard in spring 1604 and completed in 1606. These buildings may have been designed by Vincenzo Scamozzi , a well-known student of Andrea Palladio .

As a result, from 1605 the so-called Dietrichsruh was built as a two-part garden north of the Franciscan church and west of the main courtyard. An old street, the Käsgasse east of the choir of the Franciscan Church, was built over and the original space of the residence more than doubled. Around 1790 the north-western parts of this Dietrichsruh were demolished and replaced by the new buildings of the so-called Toskanertrakt. However, many areas of the original complex have still been preserved.

From 1612 to 1614, his successor Markus Sittikus von Hohenems built a new north wing around the main courtyard.

1665–67, Archbishop Guidobald von Thun had the wing on the Residenzplatz side of the Residenz extended.

Archbishop Franz Anton von Harrach then had this part of the building designed with a new facade. The architect of this work was most likely Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt . From 1711 Hildebrandt also directed the contemporary renovation of the interior, especially the so-called state rooms of the residence with the stucco work by Alberto Camesina and the ceiling paintings by Johann Michael Rottmayr .

Archbishop Hieronymus von Colloredo had the tract to Churfürststraße and Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse (parts of Dietrichsruh) torn down and partly rebuilt in the process. He also removed the magnificently designed inner courtyard garden of Wolf Dietrich and that of his successor Markus Sittikus. In 1793, however, the planned expansion of the residence to Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse in the Dietrichsruh area was stopped for cost reasons. Only today's Tuscany wing was completed in a new form. The planned demolition of the Franciscan church and the conversion of it into a court chapel as a "rotunda in Roman style" with an attached mausoleum in the Rococo style was also omitted.

After the end of the archbishopric in 1803

Until 1918 the residence was the residence of members of the Austrian imperial family, especially the empress widow Karoline Auguste von Bayern . Leading members of the Habsburg-Tuscany line, which was expelled from Florence, also lived here, which led to the naming of the Tuscany wing. Until 1986 the Toskanatrakt was the seat of the Federal Police Directorate. This wing has been part of the Law Faculty of the University of Salzburg since 1992 .

The old residence today

The residence consists of over 180 rooms and halls, including 15 state rooms. The large Carabinierisaal is well known. The adjoining royal rooms ( knight's hall , conference room, study, cabinet and bedroom, house chapel and parlor) were redesigned under the direction of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt and painted by Michael Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte . In these magnificent rooms, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart also played before the Prince Archbishop and premiered his Violin Concerto in A major (KV 219) in 1775.

The Salzburg Residence is one of the most valuable secular buildings in Salzburg's old town. Today the Residenzgalerie is located on the 2nd floor , in which the surviving paintings from the Prince Archbishops' collection are kept and shown. The wing on the cathedral square is currently being integrated into the museum tour .

Outline of the old residence

The main courtyard with the arcade and the Hercules fountain

The old residence is grouped around four inner courtyards:

  • the main courtyard (with entrances from Residenzplatz and Domplatz),
  • the courtyard of the Tuscany wing,
  • the courtyard of the former Dietrichsruh and
  • the small courtyard of the Wallis tract.

The state rooms of the old residence (main courtyard)

Part of the 18th century state rooms

The residence is accessed via the main courtyard, which is decorated with an arcade and a Hercules fountain. To the left of the fountain is the entrance to the anteroom, from where the wide representative staircase leads to the state rooms of the residence.

Carabinierisaal

The Carabinierisaal on the first floor was built around 1600. It is the largest hall in the residence. In 1660, under Guidobald von Thun, the space was significantly increased in the course of the construction of the cathedral arches. The stucco was executed in 1689 or later by Francesco and Carlo Brenno and Antonio Carabelli. On the west side of the hall a two-armed marble staircase leads to the higher Kaisersaal (see below). The marble portal dates from 1610, above it the letters I. (oannes) E. (rnestus) A. (rchiepiscopus) (et) P. (rinceps) S. (alisburgensis) have been added. The staircase in the Carabinierisaal with the ceiling painting from 1689 is reminiscent of the stairs in the winter riding school from the time of Guidobald von Thun, which was also supplemented in 1690 with a large ceiling painting by Johann Michael Rottmayr.

The large ceiling fresco in the Carabinierisaal was painted by Johann Michael Rottmayr in 1689 and depicts the four elements. The large central picture shows a scene from the 1st Book of the Aeneid (verses 102–141). Neptune calms the stormy seas that Aeolus raised against Aeneas' flight (water). The scene is based on a model by Giulio Romano . Neptune is pulled across the sea in his triumphal chariot by two hippocamps . These two sea horses and the Triton blowing into a conch shell take up the motif of the Residenzbrunnen built under Guidobald von Thun . The left picture shows the Calydonian boar hunt (earth), the right picture the blacksmith's workshop of Vulcanus (fire). The four wind gods (air) are depicted in the corner medallions. The first theater performances north of the Alps took place in this room together with the performances in the stone theater of Hellbrunn Palace, probably for the first time on January 27, 1614. The name of the room goes back to the archbishop's bodyguard.

What is unique for a residence is that almost all of the rooms form a continuous cycle in which the story of a single person, in this case Alexander the Great, is presented. Johann Ernst von Thun began redesigning the residence as early as 1689. This year the Carabinierisaal was decorated with the large ceiling fresco by Johann Michael Rottmayr. The only original inlaid walnut, maple and oak floor in the audience chamber dates from 1695, also from his time. The two main artists Johann Michael Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte carried out their work between 1710 and 1714, so they started immediately after the death of Johann Ernst von Thun. Even if the living rooms were only redesigned at the time of Franz Anton von Harrach under the direction of Lucas von Hildebrandt, it can be assumed that the concept of a continuous Alexander cycle goes back to Johann Ernst von Thun. This is supported by the performance of an opera entitled “Alessandro in Pietra”, composed in 1689 by Heinrich Ignaz Franz Biber . In 1695 the Marstallschwemme was created with the sculpture of the horse tamer, who also represents Alexander the Great.

Knight hall

The knight's hall is now a popular venue for chamber music, but also for smaller festive events and lectures. In the 17th and 18th centuries it served as an anteroom to the princely reception and living rooms. The large central picture and the four satellite pictures on the long sides were painted by Johann Michael Rottmayr in 1714. The knight's hall is therefore the last room that was painted. The ceiling stucco comes from Alberto Camesina , the wall stucco from Peter Pflauder . In the center of the picture, Alexander the Great shows his father his body horse Bucephalus . The surrounding images depict further stations in Alexander's life: the "capture of the Indian king Porus" (326 BC), the "reintroduction of Porus into his kingdom", the "Pamphylian sea wonder", the "battle of Gaugamela". The stucco reliefs show scenes from the history of Bucephalus: “The robbery of Bucephalus”, “Return of the stolen Bucephalus”, “Death of Bucephalus”, “Founding of the city of Bucephalia”. From the knight's hall there is also a walk through the cathedral arches into the Salzburg cathedral.

Conference hall

The conference room has a painting by Altomonte depicting “Alexander at the Battle of Granicus”. In this small hall, the prince-archbishop's court orchestra probably played in the numerous small house concerts, in which Leopold Mozart and his son Wolfgang Amadeus also played as concert masters (Kapellmeister).

Antecamera

The large central picture and the four satellite pictures on the long sides were painted by Martino Altomonte in 1710. The middle picture shows the "breaking of the Gordian knot by Alexander". The satellite images show the prehistory to the middle image: " Gordios receives the miracle bird", "Gordios is prophesied to become king", "The Phrygians recognize the prophesied king in Gordios," "Gordios is honored as king in the temple of Zeus". The stucco reliefs show further scenes from the life of Alexander: "The gardener Abdalonymos is made king of Sidon", "Alexander and Diogenes ", "The wise Kalamos gives Alexander a parable of wise rule", the "Importuna Adulatio of the painter Apelles ".

Audience hall

The magnificent audience hall, located on the corner between Alter Markt and Residenzplatz, has five ceiling paintings framed in gilded stucco by Johann Michael Rottmayr. The center shows the homage to Alexander in the city of Byblos. The landscape pictures above the doors are probably by Johann Anton Eismann. The precious tapestries from Brussels depict scenes from early Roman history and have the coat of arms of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich woven into them. The precious early classical furniture made by H. Jacobs from Paris was bought for this room in 1775.

Retirada

The Archbishop's small living room and study ( retirada ) served as the bedroom of Emperor Franz Joseph I during the monarchy . The large central picture on the ceiling was painted by Martino Altomonte in 1711 . It shows "Alexander's sacrifice in the Temple of Jerusalem" as a prediction of belief in one God. The four satellite images show the "dream of Alexander, in which a high priest announces rule over Persia to the great general", "Alexander's meeting with the high priest Jaddus at the gates of Jerusalem", "Alexander explains his dream to Parmenio" and "The high priest lays one on Alexander Place the book of Daniel ". In the stucco reliefs "The miracle during the procession to the oracle of Ammon in the Siwah oasis", "An oriental embassy pays homage to Alexander as king", "Alexander's serious wound in India" and "Alexander in the Siwah oasis". The painting by Franz Anton von Harrach on the wall shows an archbishop with a wig for the first time, as this was previously forbidden for clergymen. From here on, the door frames have a wooden frame, which further illustrates the private frame of this room.

Cabinet

The ceiling picture in the cabinet of Altomonte shows the envoys of the Scythians paying homage to Alexander. The baroque tabernacle cabinet there, created in 1720, served as the house altar for Franz Anton von Harrach.

bedroom

In the picture of Rottmayr in the bedroom, Alexander can be seen on his day bed. The stucco medallions show cupids making music. The picture above the portal shows a sea port, painted by Andreas Nesselthaler .

chapel

The small chapel, a small, almost square room with a domed vault, is adorned with a fresco by Rottmayr depicting God the Father. The altar, created around 1710, is believed to be by Antonio Beduzzi (1711), the altar sheet, a Rottmayr work, The Marriage of Saint Catherine.

Picture gallery

The picture gallery has a mirror vault with a marbled cornice. A cast of the young man from Magdalensberg in Carinthia is in a niche in this elongated room . The original was in the city of Salzburg between the discovery of the sculpture in 1502 and 1806, until the valuable statue was brought to Vienna.

The vault fresco by Rottmayr shows the glory of science and the arts, shaped by princely grandeur and endowment power, surrounded by illusionistic architectural painting. Astronomy, geometry, architecture - the architect holds a plan of the Palais Trautson (Vienna) designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach - and sculpture are symbolically protected by the Harrach family, poetry and historiography are protected by the felicitas publica , painting and Music under that of the buon governo , the good government. The small adjoining library room has a painting of the Aurora painted by Altomonte.

Throne room

In the throne room (parlor) there is a ceiling painting by Rottmayr with the feast of the gods on the occasion of the wedding of the Thetys .

Markus Sittikus Hall

The Markus-Sittikus-Saal was built in the reign of Wolf Dietrich's successor, Markus Sittikus. The room was newly stuccoed by Peter Pflauder in 1776 . The handover of most of the former province of Salzburg to Upper Austria was carried out in this hall as part of a state act on May 1, 1816.

Imperial Hall

The Kaisersaal (formerly Kaiserstube) is a simple room with the paintings of 14 rulers of the House of Habsburg.

Deluge Hall

From the Flood Hall with its renaissance ceiling there is a small door into the choir of the Franciscan Church.

The bishop's hall and the residence gallery are on the third floor . The ceiling paintings and vault frescos are by Johann Michael Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte, while the ceiling decorations are by Alberto Camesina.

The cathedral arches

The (northern) cathedral arches come from Guidobald von Thun and were built around 1660. Following this, the now too low-looking facades of the east and south wings of the residence were raised and completed with an attic in front of the moat roof.

The Tuscany wing

Map hall of the Salzburg Residence. Today it is used as the reading room of the legal library

In the north wing there are walled arcades on Ionic columns over two floors. The wing was rebuilt in place of earlier buildings under Prince Archbishop Colloredo and is now used as part of the University of Salzburg.

The Dietrichsruh and the Sala terrena

The Dietrichsruh was built by Wolf Dietrich as a discreet but elaborately designed Renaissance garden between 1605 and 1609 with additions up to 1612. A lavishly designed and once famous Renaissance garden with water features and many artistic artificial grottos was created in two walled courtyards . Archbishop Colloredo had the garden and its garden grottoes demolished in the late 18th century and wanted a generous redesign, which was not done for various reasons. Only a single grotto still reminds of the former splendid garden design. It is located in the central axis of the east wing. The statue of the resting Hercules standing here today dates from around 1610. The ancient original figure was in the Villa Giulia in Rome. The model for the replica in Salzburg was taken from Giovanni Battista Cavalieri's Antiquarum Statuarum Urbis Romae Primus Et Secundus Liber (Roma 1585, fol. 61). On the side of the grotto there are three murals as well as shell and stone mosaics and stucco decorations.

Ceiling of the Sala Terrena

The Sala terrena was a garden hall bordered on both sides by open arcades at the intersection of the two courtyards and gardens of the Dietrichsruh. In this laterally open space there was originally also a fountain. Next to it was a grotto further to the west and once a bird house, which was designed as an aviary and which had another ornate fountain. In the years 1983–1993 the last whitewashed ceiling of the Sala terrena was exposed in its original richly painted form and restored.

In the southeast corner of today's Dietrichsruh courtyard is the chapel of Cardinal Friedrich Johannes Jacob Cölestin von Schwarzenberg , designed by Georg Pezolt . In the staircase from Dietrichsruh to the Franciscan Church there is rich stucco with acanthus tendrils, fruit garlands, rosettes from the time of Wolf Dietrich (designed around 1608). On the first floor above the Sala terrena, the former imperial hall from around 1610, now known as the Tuscany apartment , is also preserved, the ceilings and wall parts of which were newly stuccoed in 1862.

The Wallis tract

In 1964/65 three wings of the wing arranged around a small inner courtyard south of the Franziskanergasse were largely removed and rebuilt, with the exception of the outer walls. Therefore only a few historical interiors have been preserved here. The Wallis tract is part of the extensive complex of the Prince Archbishop's Salzburg Residence. It is made up of structures created in different construction phases. Spatially separated from the actual residence by numerous renovations and changes of ownership, the apartment in the Wallis tract has not been dealt with in the literature in connection with the actual prince-archbishop's residence.

The so-called court arch building, erected in the first construction phase from 1604, originally served to accommodate the Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrichs von Raitenau's (1587–1612) apartment. The building was erected between 1604 and 1606 on the medieval Fronhof, the forecourt of the cathedral church. There was enough space available here to build a new residence for the Prince Archbishop in the shortest possible time, without disrupting the operation of the residence or having to replace bourgeois houses. After completion of the court arch building in 1606, the medieval residence was free for further renovation and modernization measures. To the north, the court arch building was directly connected to the Carabinierisaal, the “sala grande” of the Salzburg Residence. From here the princely apartment on the 2nd floor of the courtyard arched building extended to the south. The Prince Archbishop's private apartments were located in the southernmost part of the building. From here a richly stuccoed staircase led into a garden hall, which opened to the Hofgärtl to the west. This "giardino segreto" was surrounded by a high garden wall.

The arched courtyard building is repeatedly associated with the Venetian architect Vincenzo Scamozzi in literature. There is evidence that Scamozzi stayed in Salzburg in 1603/1604 to work out a project for Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau for a new cathedral church as well as for the renewal and expansion of the episcopal residence. Unfortunately, all archival evidence is missing. However, the five originally planned passages of the courtyard arch building, which began in 1604, can be clearly associated with Scamozzi's cathedral design. However, as the change in the original facade scheme on the Domplatz facade of the courtyard arch building shows, there must have been a change in planning or planning during the construction period up to 1606. Even under Wolf Dietrich's successor Markus Sittikus von Hohenems (1612–1619) the Hofgärtl and the “sala terrena” should have been closed. During this time, a three-sided cloister with an attached storey was built within the garden walls and the "sala terrena" walled up. Santino Solari can be accepted as the architect for this renovation work. The design of the building and the architectural equipment are closely related to the secular Solaris buildings in Salzburg.

Solari was also responsible for the construction of the new Salzburg Cathedral, which began in 1614. When the church was located, Solari was forced to respect the urban planning requirements of the courtyard arch building and to align the cathedral with it. The urban dimension of the courtyard arch building at the end of the prince-archbishop's "via triumphalis", the city's boulevard, was emphasized again and again during festive processions. For example, the arches of the courtyard arch building were decorated as the archbishopric "porta triumphalis" during the secular celebration of 1682.

In 1690 there was a further increase in the wing in the former Hofgärtl. The purpose was, among other things, the urban calming of the Franziskanergasse. The court wings were subsequently used by the Prince Archbishop's court. Here, in addition to numerous courtiers' apartments, the princely underwear and the cast hut for the Marian column built by Johann Baptist and Wolfgang Hagenauer on Domplatz were housed.

In 1778 the family of the sister of Prince Archbishop Hieronymus Graf von Colloredo (1772–1812), Maria Franziska married to Stephan Olivier Graf Wallis, moved into the apartment in the court arch building. Since then, this part of the residence has been known as the Wallistrakt. For this purpose there was major renovation work. The furnishings from Wolf Dietrich's time were swapped for a contemporary one in the “Viennese style”. The French architect Ludwig Grenier was responsible for the renovation. The next remodeling work has been handed down from the middle of the 19th century. The apartment was adapted as an apartment for Emperor Franz Josef I. There were minor alterations and installations in the courtyard.

After the end of the monarchy, the Wallis tract was mainly used for residential purposes. Since the 1920s, there were also a few university facilities. During the time of the National Socialist regime, the offices of the Gau architects were located in the building.

In the 1960s it was decided to re-establish the University of Salzburg in the area of ​​the old town. The Wallistrakt was the first building in Salzburg's old town to be converted for university purposes. During the necessary renovation work in 1964/65, however, a large part of the historical building fabric was destroyed. Of the courtyard wing, only the outer walls with the remains of the original garden wall have been preserved. In the courtyard arch building, the destruction of the “sala terrena” and the stuccoed spiral staircase could only be prevented at the last minute. The stucco ceilings of the apartment on the 2nd floor from the 18th century were destroyed.

literature

  • Gerhard Ammerer and Ingonda Hannesschläger (eds.): Strategies of Power. Court and residence in Salzburg around 1600 - architecture, representation and administration under Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau 1587 to 1611/12, Salzburg 2011
  • Bernd Euler, Ronald Gobiet, Horst Huber: Dehio Salzburg - City and Country. Anton Schroll & Co, Vienna 1986, ISBN 3-7031-0599-2
  • Guido Friedl: The Residence. In: Historical Atlas of the City of Salzburg , Chapter III.2, Series of the Archives of the City of Salzburg, No. 11, Salzburg 1999
  • Roswitha Juffinger (ed.): Center of Power. Vol. 1: The Salzburg Residence 1668–1803; Vol. 2: The art collections of the Salzburg prince archbishops: paintings / graphics / applied arts, Salzburg 2011.
  • Walter Schlegel: Archbishop Guidobald Graf von Thun as builder , in: Archbishop Guidobald Graf von Thun: A builder for the future, ed. v. Roswitha Juffinger. - Salzburg 2008, pp. 205-256.
  • Clemens Standl: The court arch building of the Salzburg Residence in: Austrian Journal for Art and Monument Preservation, issue 4/2011, Vienna 2012, pp. 344–361. ISBN AUT 0029-9626
  • Franz Weller: The imperial castles and palaces in words and pictures. Shown on the basis of source works. Zamarski, Vienna 1880 (Hofburg in Vienna via Augarten, Belvedere, Prater ... Gödöllő, Ischl ... all the imperial castles are declared as far as Miramar).
  • Franz Valentin Zillner : History of the City of Salzburg. Special volumes of the Society for Salzburg Regional Studies, Salzburg 1885

Web links

Commons : Residenz Salzburg  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Clemens Standl: The Hofbogengebäude and expansion of the residence to 1604. In: Astrid Ducke; Thomas Habersatter (ed.): Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. On the trail of the Prince Archbishop in the DomQuartier Salzburg. Salzburg 2017, pp. 64–67.
  2. ↑ Thomas Habersatter: Facade of power. The Prince Archbishop's Residence. In: Astrid Ducke; Thomas Habersatter (ed.): Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. On the trail of the Prince Archbishop in the DomQuartier Salzburg. Salzburg 2017, pp. 48–59.
  3. ↑ Thomas Habersatter: Facade of power. The Prince Archbishop's Residence. In: Astrid Ducke; Thomas Habersatter (ed.): Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. On the trail of the Prince Archbishop in the DomQuartier Salzburg. Salzburg 2017, pp. 48–59.
  4. ↑ Museum tour , Museum Residenz Salzburg, residenzgalerie.at

Coordinates: 47 ° 47 '54 "  N , 13 ° 2' 45"  E