Cima di Mezzo
| Cima di Mezzo | ||
|---|---|---|
 View from the Rif. Lorenzi over the northwest ridge to Cima di Mezzo (the actual summit is not in the picture) |
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| height | 3154 m slm | |
| location | Belluno , Italy | |
| Mountains | Cristallo group , Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 0.3 km → Monte Cristallo | |
| Notch height | 152 m ↓ notch to Cristallo | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 34 '40 " N , 12 ° 11' 44" E | |
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| rock | Main dolomite | |
| Age of the rock | Upper Triassic | |
| First ascent | John Stafford Anderson, Santo Siorpaes and G. Ghedina 1881 | |
| Normal way | Via ferrata Marino Bianchi ( C / D ) | |
The Cima di Mezzo ( Cristallo Central Summit ) is a 3154 m slm high mountain in the Dolomites in the Italian province of Belluno . Along with Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena, it is one of the three large summits of the Cristallo group . Due to its comparatively easy accessibility, it is climbed very often.
Location and surroundings
The Cima di Mezzo lies in the heart of the Cristallo group between the Forcella Staunies ( 2918 m ) and the main summit, Monte Cristallo , from which it is separated by a nameless gorge around 150 meters deep. The Rifugio Guido Lorenzi is located on the north-west ridge of the Forcella Staunies . The western slopes of the mountain are rooted in the Grava Staunies , a steep rubble channel through which the gondola lift leads up to the Forcella Staunies . Ghiacciaio del Cristallo, which has now almost disappeared, lies in the shadow of the northeast face .
Alpinism
The first ascent of the Cima di Mezzo was comparatively long in coming and only took place 16 years after that of the main summit and eleven years after that of Piz Popena. The British John Stafford Anderson and the mountain guides Santo Siorpaes and G. Ghedina chose the route over the southwest flank directly from the Grava Staunies in 1881 . Five years later, Michel Innerkofler climbed the partly icy north-east face ( III ) with a companion . Richard Löschner succeeded in the first ascent of the north ridge ( III ) in 1907 . A demanding classic, the southern ridge ( IV ), was opened up in the summer of 1913 by Ilona and Rolanda von Eötvös with Antonio Dimai.
Ascent
Although the summit is in the shadow of Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena from an alpine perspective, today it is the most visited mountain in the Cristallo group. The reason for this is the Via ferrata Marino Bianchi ( difficulty C / D ), which leads over the northwest ridge to the Cima di Mezzo in 1½ hours. The via ferrata was created in 1973 by the alpine organization Scoiattoli di Cortina and is reminiscent of its member Marino Bianchi, who had crashed three years earlier in the Fanes group .
The path begins on the sun terrace of the Rifugio Lorenzi and initially leads gently up and down the ridge. Soon you have to descend through a shady channel (possibly residual old snow ) into a gap. Easy terrain follows and you overcome the first of three iron ladders. After the first difficult point ( B / C ) you reach a rubble plateau where the descent path joins. The second, more demanding part of the via ferrata begins here. First another ladder leads to the so-called Red Tower , after the last ladder there is the first key point ( C / D ). You approach the summit ridge through an almost vertical crack with stepping pins (the second key point). After crossing the actual highest point you reach the summit cross on the Cima di Mezzo.
The view is particularly rewarding and ranges from the Sexten Dolomites (with Dreischusterspitze and Drei Zinnen ) via Antelao and Sorapiss , Monte Pelmo , Civetta , Marmolata and Tofane to the Hohe Gaisl . Only towards the southeast is the view obscured by the massive Monte Cristallo .
On the descent, the climb is often combined with the easier Sentiero Ivano Dibona ( B ), but this combination should not be underestimated due to the length (a good 8 hours). It is therefore advisable to spend the night in the Rifugio Lorenzi.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Richard Goedeke : Sexten Dolomites. Cristallo - Tofana - Fanes - Braies Mountains. Alpine club guide "extreme" for mountaineers and climbers. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, p. 379. ISBN 3-7633-1255-2 .
- ↑ Horst Höfler & Paul Werner: Via ferrata in the Dolomites. With the Vicentine Alps, Brenta and Lake Garda mountains. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2000, p. 120. ISBN 3-7633-3096-8 .
- ↑ Via ferrata Marino Bianchi - Cristallo. Bergstieg.com, accessed April 19, 2016 .