Gasthaus Der Engel (Rheinheim)

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Street front with stair portal

The Gasthof Der Engel in Rheinheim , in the municipality of Küssaberg in the district of Waldshut in Baden-Württemberg, has a proven tradition as an inn for over 500 years. According to its location, the building can be traced back to a Roman road station with a hostel ( mansio ).

The inn with adjoining facilities and a large beer garden was a station on a Way of St. James in the Middle Ages , but its exact course has not been established.

The owner of the inn is Di Fazio Maria Cristina.

Location and history

Location of the municipality of Küssaberg in the district of Waldshut

The inn is located on the border between Germany and Switzerland, roughly in the middle of the stretch between Basel and Lake Constance, which is almost entirely formed by the Upper Rhine , in the Rheinheim district of the municipality of Küssaberg near the bridge to the Swiss health resort Bad Zurzach .

For the residents of both sides of the river and also for the tourists of the region, the historical ambience of the house and seasonally the beer garden are attractive; the culinary offer is Italian-oriented according to the owner family and complemented by traditional German dishes.

Ensemble around the inn

Immediately at the Rhine crossing there was a building originally used by the military to control the bridge ("Former rectory, in front of it probably the main building of the Rheinauer Pflegehof, i.e. the monastery property management"), next to it is the Catholic St. Michaelskirche and - directly opposite the angel at today's Landstraße 162 the former Rhenish tithe barn. The surrounding area forms the old town center of Rheinheim, including - south across from the Engel - the Imperial Hunting Lodge , later the official and town hall and now the Küssaberg Museum .

House at Rathausring 8, former hostel

The buildings in the center also include "the pilgrims' hostel, Rathausring 8 [formerly No. 18] and a narrow customs building, which was built in 1908 in the Biedermeier style."

Pilgrims 'hostel
The building at Rathausring 8 with the portal from 1751, the pilgrims' hostel belonging to the angel was later a small convent. “The portal is stylistically assigned to the Baroque style, especially because of St. Nepomuk above the archway. The door frame itself is still very much influenced by the Renaissance, which preceded the Baroque period. ”“ There are beautiful cross vaults inside the building. The house has a huge vaulted cellar. "

Beer garden with old trees

The angel derives its historical significance as a rest house and traffic station from its location at the most important river crossing since the bridge was built in Roman times from 15 BC. The Army Road from the Swiss Alpine Foreland to Germania was established. The route will have been used as an 'ancient trade route' before. After the occupation of the space shank by the Alemanni the Roman buildings were destroyed long time.

The inn recently

In 2000 the Palella family acquired the building complex and after conversion and renovation work made most of the public again as a restaurant.

Conversion to set up the wine bar in the north-east part

The Di Fazio Palella Cristina and Angelo family has been running the business with their children Dèsirèe, Valentina, Paolo and Jonny since 2004, which also includes three ice cream parlors in the Waldshut district. After the reopening on November 1st, 2004, the house had an interior area of ​​270 m².

The restaurant with an adjoining room for parties and a cocktail bar is located here; the terrace and beer garden with ancient trees are located outside.

The Engel was renovated during the shutdown in the Corona crisis and is to be expanded by a gourmet and wine bar in 2020 in addition to the guest rooms and the event hall.

history

Map to Römerstraße (at the bottom left Bad Zurzach and opposite Rheinheim)

Presumed Roman origin

The inn is located in the historic center of Rheinheim on the territory of the former Roman bridgehead at the Rhine crossing of the military road from Vindonissa (Brugg) to the small Roman town of Tenedo on the site of Bad Zurzach. The road continued across the Danube to Rottweil ( Arae Flaviae ) and the Upper Germanic Limes . In a similar location to the former Roman and later the medieval bridge, the modern bridge between Bad Zurzach and Rheinheim on Landesstrasse 162 is not far from the inn .

During the renovation of the vaults in the inn in 2004, no more Roman remains were found.

Even after the retreat of the Romans at the beginning of the 5th century, after the restart of long-distance transport in the 7th century, the accommodation of travelers (traders, administrative and military personnel, private individuals) and messengers (changing horses) could be resumed at this location due to the convenient location be.

middle Ages

There is no evidence of a hostel in early history and the Middle Ages, but there is much to suggest that it existed in connection with the expansion of the Upper Rhine region by the ecclesiastical authorities that dominated from the 13th century, because places of pilgrimage were given a high priority and were formed by the gathering of many people There are also markets and trading centers.

Bridge and trading center
At the latest with the construction of a new bridge between Rheinheim and Zurzach and the establishment of the Zurzach trade fair , there was a great need for accommodation and supplies.

The medieval bridge existed for almost 100 years and "after the departure of the Rhine bridge (flood in 1343?), Ferries took care of the traffic over the Rhine until 1907." However, this transition was sufficient for the volume of traffic and there was also intensive boat operation down the Rhine at that time.

Zurzacher fair

Pilgrimage destination Verena - statue on the Hochrhein bridge

The medieval bridge established the importance of Rheinheim-Zurzach as a road link and then as a trade fair center "in the great economic boom that Central Europe experienced in the [late] 14th and 15th centuries", especially since another big market day in September together with the pilgrimage day for St. . Verena was held. At that time, the rivers “Rhine, Aare, Limmat and Reuss” were also used for shipping, so that thousands of visitors came to the trade fairs (in spring in May). At this time there was also a lively market in Rheinheim.

Since the two annual markets each lasted over three days and a regular Saturday market was added in 1433, the need for overnight accommodation and accommodation for wagons and animals rose to such an extent that the old Rheinheim street station - if not earlier - was more economical in these times Development will have been used. There is evidence of this at the end of the 14th century .

First mention

Contract between the Bishop of Constance and the Counts of Sulz
Since it was sold in 1240, the Bishop of Constance was entitled to high jurisdiction over the rule of Küssenberg through his bailiff on the Küssaburg. But 150 years later the balance of power had changed to the detriment of the church authorities and the Bishop of Constance Hugo von Hohenlandenberg sold many lands: “In 1497, [...] when the rule of Küssaberg was pledged to the Sulzer , a contract was signed in order to avoid a coming conflict by means of written agreements on mutual rights and obligations. "

The 21st section of the contract clarifies the ferry service from Rheinheim:

Miniature of the former wine bar at the left basement entrance.

"Item and whether it was a matter of fact that someone would get to the ride, he would be a stranger or a local, he should call three times, if the ferry does not come, he can go to the inn and drink a measure of wine at the ferry's expense and then again go over there and shout again, but if the Fehr does not come, he may do it again until he finally leads him. And what he consumes, the Fehr should pay. "

- Emil Müller-Ettikon in: Brief overview of the history of Küssaberg , 1981, pp. 45 and 49.

Undoubtedly, the “tavern” refers to the angel, which was also close to the ferry at that time , and so the first mention of the inn can be dated to 1497 in a document. However, the regulation in the contract implies that the inn had been around for a long time at this point.

Modern times

“In the 15th century, and especially at the turn of the 16th century, everyone in the West was of the opinion that a reform of the head and members of the church was necessary. [...] At three councils attempts were made to improve things, but nothing was achieved. The failure only increased the criticism. "

With the founding of the Confederation , the Upper Rhine had meanwhile become an explosive, superordinate 'state border' and the Reformation of Martin Luther also found supporters and opponents. On the Swiss side, the Reformation of the Huldreich Zwingli became a strong power and on the German side, Kadelburg was under the direct rule ( lower jurisdiction ) of the Reformed “Canons” of Zurzach. The constellation was full of conflict, because the overlord of the Kadelburger was the Count von Sulz ( High Jurisdiction ), who adhered to the Roman Catholic faith. At short notice there were votes on the 'new teaching' in numerous places, including in Kadelburg:

Second mention of the "angel"

When a brief conflict ended with the admission of freedom of belief for all rulers - “The Zurzach parish voted on August 24, 1529 and decided against only seven votes in favor of the new teaching. None of the Kadelburgers voted against it. "

The Kadelburgers therefore presented to Zurich with a request for a new preacher and “this request was immediately granted, and soon afterwards the preacher Franz Zink von Einsiedeln , a good friend of Zwingli, [...] where he stayed at the 'Engel'. "

This means that the second mention of the Engel inn - this time also by name - can be dated to 1529 in the tradition. Another mention followed in the same century:

After the Counter Reformation , which reinstated the Catholic Church in its old rights in the south of the Holy Roman Empire , a document is known that also awarded the parish in Rheinheim "the inn in Rheinheim (Engel)". Since the contract came into being after the death of Count Alwig von Sulz († January 4, 1572), the inn was part of the Rheinheim parish of Rheinheim towards the end of the 16th century. Now the monastery Rheinau dominated Rheinheim and the wide area economically and in everyday life through its lower jurisdiction - under the rule of the Counts of Sulz .

Station on an unknown Camino de Santiago

The great concern caused by the Reformation and Counter-Reformation in Central Europe also led to an intensive study of the history of Christianity and promoted the idea of ​​pilgrimages - Jerusalem had been lost to the Arabs at the end of the 13th century and northwestern Spain, the was able to resist the Arab conquest, the main town of Santiago de Compostela became the goal and symbol of a renewal of the Christian faith. In addition, the place was also accessible for 'ordinary' believers.

Rheinheim was “on a side route to the great pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela . The climax of the German pilgrimages to St. James was around 1500. The pilgrims from southern Germany first visited the Verena shrine in Zurzach . "

Gasthof Engel Rheinheim (portal). Above the " scallop "

The pilgrims on the southern route via Nuremberg and Ulm mainly met in Konstanz and Schaffhausen to cross the river on their way to Einsiedeln monastery , but an - officially unknown - way of St. James through the Klettgau led to the intermediate destination of the Verena shrine in Zurzach. Wolf Pabst writes: You can see the shell “in many churches in the Upper Rhine region, for example in Degernau, in Bühl or in the monastery church of Rheinau. [...] Another pilgrim house that has been preserved can be found in the village of Lausheim, which is eight kilometers east of Bonndorf. "

It is also known that the well-traveled Jakobsweg through cities like Constance prompted numerous pilgrims to look for quieter routes, so that a route from Schaffhausen towards Waldshut branching off via Rheinheim and Zurzach to Einsiedeln or Bern would have made sense. All these southern routes then continued west to the Burgundian Gate.

Santiago de Compostela experienced a general high point of pilgrimages in the 15th century on the days of grace (whenever the feast day of St. James falls on a Sunday). A decline took place in the 17th century, which took off again in the 18th - increasingly and to this day, alongside the classic pilgrimage as a more touristic-motivated company.

From the lodging station to the inn and post office

The part of the building on the right is a listed building

As central buildings, stations like the angel in the Middle Ages were often imperial crown property and later remained in the hands of aristocratic families, such as the Landgraves of Klettgau on the Upper Rhine. After the Thirty Years' War (ended in 1648) - the nearby Küssaburg was destroyed in 1634 - these goods lost their 'lordly' importance due to the wide expansion of the new areas of power (states), the decline in long-distance trade and the end of the economic dominance of the monasteries. In addition, the nobility was seldom able to think and act economically as the new developments required. The trader and citizen had a better understanding of economic and social processes such as the production and distribution of goods or postal traffic.

Mentioned in the 17th century

“The constant change of tenants and the inadequate use that the economy threw off as a manorial property prompted the landgrave to follow the advice of his officials and sell the Adler and the Gasthaus Zum Engel in Rheinheim. The letter of purchase was made out on December 23, 1686 in Tiengen and signed by the Count of Sulzischen Salt Factor and Vogt Franz Berlinger von Oberlauchringen. "

The mentioned purchase letter relates to the eagle in Lauchringen , but the sale of the angel will probably have been completed during the same period.

18th century

Above the main entrance there is a stone with the year 1761 - in addition to documentary and literary mentions, there is also an archaeological reference to the old age of the inn:

In 1761 the Rheinheim town center was renewed (?)

“Renaissance portal from 1761 with angel, above it a scallop shell carved in stone . To the left of the entrance above the cellar door a relief with a wine jug and wine glass. To the right of the entrance, above the second cellar entrance, the year 1815. […] Inside the building, in the guest room, a brick relief with a post horn and a whip. The inn has a beer garden with beautiful old trees, which is located in the center of the village. You can see many of the buildings described from the beer garden. "

At the basement entrance on the right, reason of the date unknown

19th century

"Xaver Roder, farmer and community computer in Dangstetten, bought the Rheinau tithe barn across from the angel in 1797."

“To the right of the entrance above the second cellar entrance, the year 1815.” Although the year 1815 brought about events of global political importance with the defeat of Napoleon and the Congress of Vienna - a local cause for the date is not too well known.

The angel was also a post office for a long time

"Inside the building, in the guest room, a stone relief with a post horn and whip."

The Gasthaus zum Engel as a post office is little documented. This was set up in the era of horse-drawn carriages, because a photo from 1927 speaks of its being replaced by the "first three-wheeled Postbus in the Rhine Valley." However, the post office existed for more than a hundred years:

“In 1828/29 the postman Xaver Roder von Engel applied to Grand Duke Karl August that a bridge should be built at state expense. The Grand Duke therefore came to Rheinheim and personally inspected the project, but refused. Xaver Roder offered to build the bridge at his own expense. Death prevented him from executing. But once again in 1830 his widow Franziska agreed to build the bridge at her own expense. The plan fizzled out. "

20th century

Bridge construction 1906/07
It was only on the initiative of the Zurzach manufacturer Jakob Zuberbühler that a bridge was built again at the beginning of the 20th century, which collapsed during assembly as a result of a flood on May 21, 1906. The new building was resumed and "on July 14, 1907, the people from left and right of the river celebrated the inauguration."

With the resumption of neighborhood and business life after the Second World War, it became clear that the building was no longer able to cope with modern traffic. However, it was not demolished, but repaired from 1977 and the old superstructure was extended by a steel composite cross-section with an overhead carriageway and around 10 meters wide. "The inauguration of today's bridge took place on September 2nd, 1978."

Remarks

  1. Literary evidence of the location and archaeological findings in today's Engel building complex are not available, but according to general research, the entire ensemble of buildings near the bridge formed a bridgehead to secure the Roman city of Tenedo opposite . A bridge was found in 376 AD. In the history of the city, there was evidence of a bridge in the 14th century at the latest. In the meantime there were ferry connections.
  2. After the retreat from 406 AD, the Alamanni avoided the now destroyed Roman places, but already about 100 years later, after their victory over the Alamanni , the Franks occupied precisely these formerly Roman places in the land of their opponent. The ending -heim in the place name Rheinheim also indicates a Franconian foundation. Alemannic places of that early period usually have the ending -ingen.
  3. ↑ In 1985 foundations were located near today's bridge and wood residues were determined using dendrochronology . It could be assumed that this "lower bridge dates from the 13th century." In the middle of the 13th century, around 1250, the rule of the last Küssenberg count passed to the powerful diocese of Constance , which also built bridges in the wider area Hochrhein made.
  4. The miniature cannot be seen on this archway in old photos - it was only attached there later or was hidden under plaster.
  5. Among the routes of the St. James pilgrims in Baden-Württemberg established by the Council of Europe in 1987 , a route with the angel as a station cannot be clearly defined. The description “along the route of a Roman military route or the Swiss country road via Hechingen, Balingen , Rottweil , Villingen to Schaffhausen and a variant via Waldshut to Basel ” most closely relates to the spatial landscape. One should assume with the local historian Wolf Pabst that the angel was connected to the old pilgrim destination of St. Verena in Zurzach, that is, pilgrims and pilgrims from Rheinheim took the ferry across the river.
  6. "With the takeover by the Würtenberger family, the most glamorous period in its history began for the traditional inn." (Brigitte Matt-Willmatt, Chronik Lauchringen, p. 329).

Web links

Commons : Gasthaus Der Engel  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

literature

  • Emil Müller-Ettikon : A brief overview of the history of Küssaberg. Verlag Zimmermann, Waldshut 1981.
  • Alfred Hitber: District Museum "Höfli". The Zurzach trade fairs. Zurzach 1993.
  • Wolf Pabst: Small guide through the village of Rheinheim. New edition of the brochure from 1985, Küssaberg 2011. [3] (pdf) Accessed on June 5, 2020.

Individual evidence

  1. Quotations and information in the section: Wolf Pabst: Small guide through the village of Rheinheim. New edition of the brochure from 1985, Küssaberg 2011, p. 12 f. [1] . Accessed June 5, 2020.
  2. Wolf Pabst: Registration of the small monuments in Küssaberg. Chapter 8: Gates and Portals , 2011, p. 82. [2] . Accessed June 5, 2020.
  3. Wolf Pabst: Little Guide through Rheinheim , p. 13.
  4. Chapter: Alfred Hitber: District Museum "Höfli". The Zurzacher Messen , Zurzach 1993, pp. 42 to 46.
  5. ^ Emil Müller-Ettikon : About the village of Kadelburg and its past , Ed .: Gemeinde Kadelburg, May 1964, p. 40 f.
  6. ^ Emil Müller-Ettikon: Brief overview of the history of Küssaberg , Verlag Zimmermann, Waldshut 1981, p. 36.
  7. ^ Wolf Pabst: Small guide through the village of Rheinheim. New edition of the brochure from 1985, Küssaberg 2011, p. 11. Pabst mentions other places, but a source is missing and the connection is not mentioned in the register of routes.
  8. Wolf Pabst: Little Guide through Rheinheim , 2011, p. 11.
  9. Brigitte Matt-Willmatt, Karl-Friedricht Hoggenmüller: Lauchringen - Chronik einer Gemeinde , Ed .: Gemeinde Lauchringen, 1985, p. 328.
  10. ^ Emil Müller-Ettikon: Geschichte Küssabergs , 1981, p. 135.
  11. Wolf Pabst: Little Guide through Rheinheim , p. 15.
  12. ^ Emil Müller-Ettikon, History of Küssabergs , pp. 98 and 61.
  13. ^ Emil Müller-Ettikon, History of Küssabergs , pp. 98 and 61 f.

Coordinates: 47 ° 35 ′ 14 "  N , 8 ° 18 ′ 16.2"  E