Klaus Trebes

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François Rabelais, “Gargantua” , published in Lyon by Denis de Harsy, 1537
Gargantua Friesengasse 3
Gargantua: Liebigstrasse / corner of Feldbergstrasse
Gargantua: Entrance Liebigstrasse
Gargantua in the Frankfurter Welle building complex

Klaus Trebes (born July 8, 1947 in Teuschnitz , Franconian Forest ; † May 2, 2011 in Frankfurt am Main ) was a German chef and author of gastronomic publications.

Career

Trebes grew up in Teuschnitz with his family as the only son and grandson in the house of his paternal grandparents and attended elementary school in town. For further education his parents sent him to the boarding school in the Benedictine abbey of Münsterschwarzach , where one of his uncle worked as a teacher and father . His mother and grandmother, who, as Trebes pointed out in his writings, were both good cooks, was already interested in good cooking. At the age of 16 he switched to the grammar school in Würzburg , moved into his own room to sublet, made his first cooking experiences on an electric plate and traveled to Istanbul, France and Italy.

After high school and military service, he moved to Frankfurt am Main in 1969 , moved into a room in the Friedrich Dessauer Catholic student house and gave first proof of his culinary skills to fellow students . He studied law and philosophy and trained in critical theory at lectures by Theodor W. Adorno and Max Horkheimer . He completed his law studies with the state examination. During the time of the 1968 movement , he and Joschka Fischer , Daniel Cohn-Bendit , Johnny Klinke and Matthias Beltz were included in the Frankfurt street fighter scene. He belonged to the Revolutionary Struggle (RK), a politically active group that wanted to prevent the demolition of Frankfurt town houses from the Belle Époque through squatting . He made culinary and art-historical educational trips to Greece, Turkey, Spain and regularly to France, especially to Paris.

Trebes was an ensemble member of the Karl Napps Chaos Theater , founded in 1976 , to which Beltz and Dieter Thomas also belonged. With Beltz he wrote scripts in which he ironically incorporated fragments of his own biography. In the same year, together with Ralf Scheffler and Beltz, he was the founder of the legendary Frankfurt scene bar Elfer in Eschersheim , in whose kitchen he cooked and in whose dance hall the Batschkapp cultural center was set up.

In 1981 he was an actor in the television film The Subjective Factor by director Helke Sander and in 1983 he was an actor and screenwriter in the television film The Flying Robert , directed by Henning Burk .

Gargantua restaurant

In 1984 he opened a small restaurant, an "intimate location", which he named Gargantua , in Bockenheimer Friesengasse 3, at the end of Leipziger Straße , not far from the university . Named after the cycle of novels " Gargantua and Pantagruel " by the French writer François Rabelais , it should stand for good food and good drinking, as the giant Gargantua was ascribed an excessive hunger and tremendous thirst. Trebes was the head chef , his future wife Monika Winterstein-Trebes (they married 1986) took over the service and was a sommelier , other assistants were recruited from his former theater company. Even here, white truffles ( Tuber magnatum Pico) became an important part of his culinary creations.

In 1993 the Trebes and the Gargantua moved into the ground floor of an elegant tenement house built in 1902. The new domicile, which also included some open-air spaces in the front garden, was located at Liebigstrasse 47 / corner of Feldbergstrasse, in Frankfurt's Westend , which is considered “fine” . The Trebes restaurant was already in the Friesengasse, even more on the new square, the preferred culinary meeting point for Frankfurt intellectuals, advertising people and bankers, although Trebes never received a Michelin star and the kitchen was rated with 15 Gault Millau points. “ The 'Gargantua' became an insider tip for publishers, politicians and financial tycoons in the Westend. Bending lovingly over his guests' plates, Trebes grates fine slices of fragrant white truffles with his own hands ” . Joschka Fischer, Heiner Goebbels , Daniel Cohn-Bendit and Tom Koenigs were frequent guests among the old 68ers . For Fischer, who was also a regular participant of his New Year's Eve dinners, he arranged the wedding celebration for his third marriage (with Claudia Bohm) in 1987. "With the autodidact Klaus Trebes, the former house warriors [...] got acquainted with upscale dining culture, fine wines and the Mediterranean way of life."

In 2010 the Gargantua moved to new premises in the Frankfurter Welle , in the middle of Frankfurt's banking district , not far from the Alte Oper . In 2013 the widow closed the restaurant due to economic difficulties.

Gastronomic publicist

As an autodidact, Trebes had acquired extensive specialist knowledge through reading and practical experience on his travels. From January 1996 to June 1999 he wrote a full-page, weekly column in the legendary magazine supplement of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (the FAZ-Magazin ), in which he revealed his recipes and gave advice on food and drink. As a result, he quickly became known nationwide and, along with Wolfram Siebeck , Gert von Paczensky and Vincent Klink, was one of the group of German culinary philosophers. Trebes wrote other articles for the magazine Die Woche , for Merian , the SZ magazine of the Süddeutsche Zeitung , the Stern and other publications. From 2010 until his death Trebes wrote in the gastronomy magazine foodhunter . In 2007 he was given a teaching position at the Städelschule in Frankfurt am Main.

Trebes, who had already undergone bypass surgery , died of a heart condition. He was buried in the main cemetery in Frankfurt .

Fonts

  • Recipes from the Gargantua. Rütten & Loening, Berlin 1996, ISBN 3-352-00690-3 .
  • Carp or caviar. The new recipes from the Gargantua along with information from the kitchen and life in seventy-six chapters. Keyser, Munich 1998, ISBN 3-87405-243-5 .
  • Where the pepper grows. Stories and recipes about spices and herbs (= Insel-Taschenbuch 2705). Insel-Verlag, Frankfurt am Main et al. 2003, ISBN 3-458-34405-5 .

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Matthias Beltz: Bio-Bibliography. Part 1: 1968–1991 ( Memento from December 16, 2011 in the web archive archive.today ). At: Zweiausendeins .de.
  2. Ralf Scheffler, In: Klaus Fischer (Ed.): Batschkapp: 20 years and not a bit quiet ... , Frankfurter Kulturzentrum, 1996.
  3. Maxi: Rock in der Kapp ( memento from July 19, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ), from March 18, 2010, on the rockt.tv website.
  4. Anna-Patricia Kahn and Amos Schliack: Eating like God in France . In: Focus of December 23, 1994.
  5. Barbara Goerlich: restaurateur Klaus Trebes is dead , obituary in: Allgemeine Hotel- und Gastronomie-Zeitung .
  6. ^ Website of the Städel School's cooking workshop .

Web links