Markgräfler costume
The Markgräfler Tracht is the traditional costume in the Markgräflerland , a region in Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany , on the border with France and Switzerland . The most distinctive feature of the women's costume is the headgear in the form of a wing hood , the so-called horn cap .
Use of the costume
Today this tradition is still cultivated in traditional costume clubs, but until around 1930 the traditional costume was generally worn by the rural population on Sundays and public holidays, as well as on festive occasions.
Distribution area
The area of distribution of the costume lies between Basel and Freiburg and basically corresponds to the former domain of the Margraves of Hachberg-Sausenberg , the Markgräflerland. With small changes, however, it was also worn in the area of the Margraviate of Hachberg in the Emmendingen area and in the evangelical places around the Kaiserstuhl . Variants of the costume were later also worn in some mixed-denominational villages of the former condominiums of the margraviate of Baden-Baden , the rulers of Mahlberg and Lahr .
The evolution of the costume
The increasingly clear expression of the costume after 1820 leads to the conclusion that contrary to the efforts of the young state of the Grand Duchy of Baden to create a common identity for the many sub-areas with different histories and traditions that were united in it, there was a regional need to preserve one's own identity and stand out from the neighboring areas.
The horns grow
From a guild order of the hat makers in the dominions of Rötteln and Sausenberg from 1651 it can be deduced that before the headgear of the women was a hat and at this time the transition to the cap took place. The oldest known representations of the Markgräfler costume can be found under David Herrliberger's Baßlerische Ausruff-Bilder from 1749. The Basel publisher Christian von Mechel published in 1783 in the costume series “Costumes Suisses” the colored copper engraving, attributed to Samuel Gränicher , of a Margravian woman with a “Dotsch” cap and straw hat ("Schihuet", ie sun hat). The engraving served as a model for numerous re-engravings well into the 19th century. The Parisian draftsman Claude-Louis Desrais made a mistake in the details of the “Dotsch” cap in 1784, which continued in all the following illustrations and the later implementation of the reconstructed costume. Several gouaches and drawings of the Vreneli costume have also been preserved by Markus Dinkel , for example in the Kupferstichkabinett of the Kunstmuseum in Basel. This so-called “Dotsch” cap was still part of traditional costume around 1800 and is found somewhat more refined on the illustration of J. P. Hebels with the “Vreneli”, which is why the costume from this period is also called “Vreneli” costume.
The Dotsch cap developed further into a wing cap, whereby the loops (wings) were initially still small. The bows grew and got short fringes at the ends . Around 1850, the older women still have the small bows without fringes, while the younger women have the somewhat larger bows with fringes.
Around 1890 the Markgräfler horn cap was fully developed with very large bows and long fringes. What we today sometimes misunderstand as a centuries-old tradition is the development of the folk costume between around 1890 and 1930.
"Vreneli" -, traditional costume. Colored outline etching by Gränicher , 1783
Anna B. Krafft from Auggen , 1853
Elisabeth Marget von Hügelheim , 1856
Margraviate of Malsburg , 1900
From the gusset skirt to the dress with sleeves
While a gusset skirt was worn before 1764, a pleated skirt had to be worn afterwards according to police regulations. Later there was more and more adaptation to bourgeois fashion and dresses with sleeves were worn - at times with so-called club sleeves and a hoop skirt (crinoline).
The influence of politics
The Police Ordinance of 1764
The costume has undergone some changes over time. In addition to fashion influences, politics was also an influencing factor. So ban in 1764 of Baden-durlachische Governor of Rötteln, Gustav Magnus von Wallbrunn , until then associated with the costume gore skirt, because it was composed of narrow, wedge-shaped strips of fabric so that the fabric of a discarded skirt barely had to use. From Wallbrunn's point of view, this was a waste. Its prohibition is one of other measures for popular education that were taken under the regiment of Margrave Karl Friedrich .
The French revolution
In the 18th century, the Markgräfler men's costume also included knee breeches . In pre-revolutionary France , the sans-culottes were the workers and petty bourgeoisie who, in contrast to the nobility , wore long trousers instead of knee breeches. The long trousers also became a political signal and increasingly replaced the knee breeches from the traditional costume.
The costume as an economic factor
After the German Customs Union was founded in 1834, industrialists from Basel increasingly established factories in neighboring Baden in order to open up the Customs Union's market. For his part, Baden was happy to be able to drive industrialization forward. The ribbon weaving mills were able to sell most of their production to the Markgräfler Landvolk as early as 1836, as they needed a large amount of silk ribbon for their traditional costumes.
The Markgräfler costume in literature
Johann Peter Hebel - Dotsch
In literary terms, Johann Peter Hebel made the Markgräfler costume known in his poem “The Meadow”, describing it as “Lutheran” clothing, as the costume was almost only worn in Protestant towns. The collection of poems was published in 1803, i. H. Lever describes the costume as it was worn around 1800, the so-called “Vreneli costume”. At that time the "horn cap" did not yet exist and Hebel called the tight-fitting cap "Dotsch".
Victor Hugo - the black butterfly
The French writer Victor Hugo took a trip up the Rhine in 1839. His travelogue also contains a letter dated September 4th from Freiburg. Here Hugo describes the horn cap of the Markgräfler costume as “Le grand papillon noir”.
literature
- Fred Wehrle: Johann Peter Hebel and the Markgräfler costume. In: Das Markgräflerland, Volume 1/2010, pp. 144–150
- Fred Wehrle: The Markgräfler costume - a popular Baden folk costume. In: Badische Heimat, June 2/2009, pp. 269–282
- Paula Röttele: Altmarkgräfler costume (1750-1810) found in Auggen. In: Das Markgräflerland, Volume 1/2004, pp. 35/36 digitized version of the Freiburg University Library
- Hermann Jacob (editor): People, dresses, traditional costumes - a documentation on the history of the Markgräfler traditional costumes , brochure for the exhibition of the history and museum association Vorderes Kandertal 2003
- Ursula Huggle: On the development of traditional costumes in the Markgräflerland. In: Das Markgräflerland 2/1994, pp. 312–334 digitized version of the Freiburg University Library
- Fred Wehrle: The Markgräfler costume. In: Das Markgräflerland, Volume 2/1987, pp. 153–160 digitized version of the Freiburg University Library
- Ida Preusch-Müller: The Markgräfler costume through the ages. In: Die Margrafschaft, issue 6/1950, pp. 7–9
- Maria Riffel: The development of the costume hood in the southern part of the Upper Rhine region , Heidelberg 1940
- Marie Bechtel-Währer: The Markgräfler costume. In: Markgräfler Jahrbuch 1939 , pp. 98–99 digitized version of the Freiburg University Library
- August Richard Maier: The Markgräfler folk costume. In: Badische Heimat 10 (1923) pp. 99-106 online at landeskunde-online.de
- O. Lauffer: The women's costume in the Markgräflerlande. In: My Homeland, Volume 5 (1922)
- Victor Hugo : En voyage. Le Rhin , Paris around 1880, p. 215 Digitized at gallica
Web links
- Samuel Gränicher's portrayal of a margravine from the 1791 edition
- Development of the Markgräfler costume
- Victor Hugo's entire works, translated by Mehreren, Volume 18, Stuttgart 1860, Der Rhein - Briefe an einer Freund; 31st letter, (p. 523 in the PDF file) translated by FW Dralle in the Google book search
- Ehrenfried Kluckert: E breast cloth, velvet un pink red. Fred Wehrle unfolds a picture sheet of the Markgräfler traditional costume and its distribution at Schloss Bürgeln. In: Badische Zeitung of May 17, 2008; accessed on August 31, 2017
Traditional costume clubs
In the “Trachtenjahrbuch 2017” published by the Bund “Heimat und Volksleben” eV , the following 8 member associations are listed, which maintain the Markgräfler costume:
- Homepage of the Markgräfler Trachtenverein Kandern eV
- Homepage of the Markgräfler Trachtengruppe eV Weil am Rhein
- Homepage of the traditional costume and folk dance group Egringen
- Homepage of the Trachtengruppe Eichstetten eV
- Tina Lindemann: Commitment to traditional costume. Home evening of the traditional costume and folk dance group Schallstadt on the occasion of the 30th anniversary. In: Badische Zeitung of April 29, 2010; accessed on September 19, 2017 - The association does not have its own homepage
- Elisabeth Jakob-Kölblin: traditional costume group celebrates birthday. The Ihringer Association has existed for 40 years. In: Badische Zeitung of March 3, 2016; accessed on September 19, 2017 - The association does not have its own homepage
- Dagmar Barber: Colorful spot of color in a uniform mash. The Niederemmendinger costume group has been an ambassador for the city for 50 years, but has acute concerns about the next generation. In: Badische Zeitung of October 22, 2012; accessed on September 19, 2017 - The association does not have its own homepage
- Beatrice Ehrlich: Giving home a face. The Auggen Home Care Working Group celebrated its 40th birthday. In: Badische Zeitung of March 16, 2016; accessed on September 19, 2017 - The association does not have its own homepage
Individual evidence
- ↑ s. Fred Wehrle in the publication by Hermann Jacob; P. 19
- ↑ s. Huggle p. 330
- ↑ s. Hugo - "black butterfly"
- ↑ s. Jacob p. 15
- ↑ Landvogt of the Oberamt Rötteln 1748–1772
- ↑ s. Huggle p. 316
-
↑ Wikisource: JP Hebels complete works; Volume 1: The meadow - sources and full texts
- ↑ In the Markgräflerland - as in the entire margraviate of Baden-Durlach - the Reformation was introduced in 1556, which is why the associated communities were Protestant
- ^ En voyage. Le Rhin
- ↑ the big black butterfly
- ↑ Trachtenjahrbuch 2017, pdf