Pfaffenschneide

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Pfaffenschneide
On the left the Zuckerhütl, on the right the Pfaffenschneid from Sulzenauferner

On the left the Zuckerhütl , on the right the Pfaffenschneid from Sulzenauferner

height 3498  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Stubai Alps , western main ridge
Dominance 0.31 km →  Zuckerhütl
Notch height 66 m ↓  Scharte to the Zuckerhütl
Coordinates 46 ° 57 '45 "  N , 11 ° 8' 53"  E Coordinates: 46 ° 57 '45 "  N , 11 ° 8' 53"  E
Pfaffenschneide (Tyrol)
Pfaffenschneide
First ascent Summer 1863 by Ludwig Barth and Leopold Pfaundler , a few days before Josef Anton Specht with the mountain guide Alois Tanzer during the ascent of the Zuckerhütl
Normal way High tour from the Hildesheimer Hütte in the northwest over the Gamsplatzl and the Pfaffenferner
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The Pfaffenschneide (also Pfaffenschneid ) is a strongly pronounced mountain ridge running from northeast to southwest in the immediate vicinity west of the Zuckerhütl in the main ridge of the Stubai Alps . It is located in the Austrian state of Tyrol . The ridge is about one kilometer long and at the highest survey point it reaches a height of 3498 meters. The lowest point is at the southwest end at an altitude of 3,206 meters, the northeasternmost point reaches 3,432 meters. Here the Pfaffenschneide merges into the west ridge of the Zuckerhütl, which is 3505 meters high. To the southeast, its wall height is a maximum of about 500 meters with a slope of up to 40 °, the northwest side is glaciated up to the top with a slope of 60 to 70 °. The ridge was first climbed by Ludwig Barth and Leopold Pfaundler in the summer of 1863 .

Surroundings

The Pfaffenschneide is about 10 kilometers as the crow flies southwest of Ranalt in the Stubaital and about 8 km northeast of the Timmelsjoch . It is flanked by two extensive glaciers . Pfaffenferner and Sulzenauferner are located in the northwest up to the ridge height , and the Triebenkarlasferner extends in the southeast . Adjacent peaks are, directly to the east, the Zuckerhütl (3505 m), in the northwest the Apere Pfaff with 3351 meters and in the southwest, separated by the Gamsplatzl mountain yoke ( 3019  m ), is the 3129 meter high Gaiskogel .

Bases and route

The path of the first climber from 1863 led from the Mutterbergalm in the north over the Fernauferner up to the Pfaffenjoch and over the slightly pronounced north ridge to the Schneide.

Today's normal route to Pfaffenschneide leads either from the Siegerlandhütte to the south , at an altitude of 2710 meters, or from the Hildesheimer Hütte to the west-northwest ( 2899  m ). From here the path runs in a south-easterly direction to Gamsplatzl. Then it goes over the Pfaffenferner as an alpine tour (only with appropriate equipment and experience) up to a height of 3230 meters. The ascent only shows in the direct crossing of the ridge from Gamsplatzl to the point 3230 m climbing points with, according to literature, great difficulty in UIAA grade IV . The walking time from the Hildesheimer Hütte to the Zuckerhütl is 3½ hours, according to literature, and 4½ hours from the Siegerlandhütte.

Literature and map

Individual evidence

  1. L. Barth and L. Pfaundler: Die Stubaier Gebirgsgruppe , Wagner, Innsbruck 1865, p. 83 ff.
  2. Ludwig Purtscheller in Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, Volume II , Verlag des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenverein, Berlin 1894, p. 389
  3. ^ Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Stubai Alps , Munich 2006, p. 336, margin no. 3393