Great Wiesbachhorn
Great Wiesbachhorn | ||
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Great Wiesbachhorn |
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height | 3564 m above sea level A. | |
location | Salzburg , Austria | |
Mountains | Glockner group | |
Dominance | 9.7 km → Glocknerwand | |
Notch height | 490 m ↓ Gruberscharte | |
Coordinates | 47 ° 9 '23 " N , 12 ° 45' 17" O | |
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rock | Limestone mica schist | |
First ascent | At the end of the 18th century by the Fusch farmers Zanker and Zorner | |
Normal way | Kaindlgrat ( I ) |
The Great Wiesbachhorn is located in the state of Salzburg in Austria and is 3564 m above sea level. A. the second highest mountain range in the Glockner group . The completely free-standing firndome forms the main summit of the Fuscher / Kapruner Kamm and is often seen in alpine literature as a rival to the Grossglockner . The deep fall to the east and south-east has one of the greatest differences in altitude between valley and summit in the Eastern Alps, at over 2400 m . The first ascent of the northwest face on July 15, 1924 by Franz Riegele and Willo Welzenbach was of alpine importance . They used ice hooks for the first time to move on the so-called ice bulge , which were later developed into ice screws . The north-west face was one of the classic ice walls in the Eastern Alps; in the meantime, however, the ice has largely melted.
Location and surroundings
The Great Wiesbachhorn is almost completely surrounded by glaciers . In the north lies the Wielingerkees , in the northeast the Sandbodenkees flows east down into the sandy soil and further into the Fuscher Ache . In the south lies the Teufelsmühlkees and in the west the Kaindlkees . Significant adjacent mountains are in the north, separated by the at 3211 m preferred height sand-lip , the Small Wiesbachhorn with a height of 3283 m . In the southwest, beyond the Wielingerscharte at 3265 m high , between Kaindlkees and Teufelsmühlkees, lie the two viola heads ( 3413 m and 3401 m ). To the west the area falls down to the Mooserboden reservoir , to the east into the Fuscher valley . The nearest significant settlement is Fusch on Großglocknerstrasse, about 10 kilometers as the crow flies in a northerly direction .
Ascents
The original path of the Fuscher farmers at the end of the 18th century, rarely used today, led from Ferleiten to the Schwarzenberghütte in 3½ hours and from there in 4 hours past the Bratschenköpf to the summit of the Horn. Today's starting point for an ascent is the Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus . From there the normal route leads over the Obere Fochezkopf and the Kaindlgrat to the summit in about 3 hours. In the middle part of the path there is a 35 ° inclined firn cutting edge, the rocky areas are UIAA I difficulty . The classic routes through the 500 meter high north-west face require climbing skills in the ice up to an incline of 60 °.
Wiesbachhorn group, from the north over the Kitzbüheler Horn
From the summit of the Großer Wiesbachhorn it's over 2,400 meters in altitude to the Fuscher Ache valley
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Leader Glockner Group . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8 .
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps . III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894.
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Height of the reference chart according to the Salzburg Geographic Information System .
- ^ Carl Ehrenbert Freiherr von Moll : Molls Jahrbuch für Berg- und Metallkunde , Volume V, Salzburg 1801, p. 241
- ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Große Wiesbachhorn on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ↑ Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, pp. 208 ff.
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 434 ff., Margin no. 1590 ff.