Einserkofel
| Einserkofel | ||
|---|---|---|
 Einserkofel from the Altenstein valley |
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| height | 2698 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Sexten Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 1.9 km → Langlahnspitze | |
| Notch height | 210 m | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 38 '21 " N , 12 ° 20' 53" E | |
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| First ascent | Loránd Eötvös , Michel Innerkofler and F. Happacher on July 26, 1879 | |
| particularities | Sexten sundial , rock fall 2007 | |
The Einserkofel or simply Einser ( Italian Cima Una ) is a 2698 m slm high summit in the Dolomites in South Tyrol . It is located in the Drei Zinnen nature park above the end of the Fischleintal valley . It is also part of the Sexten sundial , as the sun is exactly over the summit at 1 p.m. from the Fischleintal.
location
The Einser stands as an isolated rock tower a few hundred meters northeast of the Oberbachernspitze ( 2675 m ) in the central Sexten Dolomites . It forms the northern corner pillar of the mountain range, which includes the eastern and western Oberbachernspitze ( 2635 m ) and the pulpit ( 2531 m ). This massif is bounded in the north by the Altenstein valley and in the east by the Bachern valley, which merge downstream to form the Fischleintal valley.
Alpinism
The first ascent of the Einser took place on July 26th 1879 by Loránd Eötvös and the two mountain guides Michel Innerkofler and F. Happacher. They chose the route over the south face, which is now considered the normal route. Part of the 800 meter high north face was climbed for the first time in 1898 by JS Phillimore and AGS Raynor with the mountain guides Antonio Dimai and M. Innerkofler on the left side of the forehead. In 1910 Otto Langl and E. Heigl surpassed this expedition. The direct north face, in the middle part almost vertical and characterized by large overhangs, was conquered for the first time in the same year by Angelo Dibona with the brothers Guido and Max Mayer and the guide Luigi Rizzi. This achievement is considered to be one of the boldest and most reckless in Dibona's career because of the extreme difficulty ( UIAA grade VI-) at the time . In 1913, Hans Fiechtl , Adolf Deye and O. Katzer also managed to climb a little further to the right of Dibona's route.
During the First World War and the Mountain War, the Einserkofel was initially used by the Austrians as an observation tower for the artillery . On the night of August 26, 1915, he was captured by an Alpini patrol under Lieutenant Casali, who climbed the south face of the mountain (normal route) without a rope. From then on, he represented an essential pillar in the Italian line of attack.
In the interwar period , new, direct routes through the north face were opened up, among others by Paula Wiesinger and Hans Steger in 1928. Poppinger / Fuchs in 1931, Mariner / Hantschel in 1934 and Schober / Liebl 1938 formed other important clusters.
Rockslide
The ones became better known through a rock fall in 2007. On October 12, shortly after 9:30 in the morning, a boulder of 60,000 cubic meters came loose from the mountain and fell to the valley. A dense cloud of dust and debris formed that filled the entire Fischleintal valley. Due to the advanced season of the year, there were no hikers or mountaineers in the area of the rock fall. So there were neither dead nor injured.
Seismographs even registered this event as an earthquake in Innsbruck , around 100 kilometers away . According to geologists, it was a perfectly normal incident. The dolomite rock is brittle and fissured, which enables rainwater to penetrate into the rock, which can lead to friction losses and consequent landslides . It is likely that temperature fluctuations in the previous days caused the water to freeze and thaw several times. The expansion in volume may have caused a frost blast that triggered the rock fall. In order to be able to better recognize danger zones in the future, fixed points were installed in the north wall , which are used for monitoring by the South Tyrolean regional geology.
On July 20, 2011 there was another rock slide event at the same location. The cubature was only 500 cubic meters.
bases
Today the summit is hardly climbed, not least because of the rock fall. One or more day hut tours, during which the mountain is circled, are popular. The less demanding Oberbachernspitze (east summit), which can be reached in a short time from the Büllelejochhütte and offers a magnificent view of the Einser, is also popular. The following bases are in the vicinity:
- Talschlusshütte ( 1548 m )
- Büllelejochhütte ( 2528 m )
- Zsigmondyhütte ( 2224 m )
- Dreizinnenhütte ( 2405 m )
- Rifugio Carducci ( 2297 m )
- Lavaredohütte ( 2344 m )
- Auronzo Hut ( 2320 m )
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Horst Höfler: Dream Teams - The most successful rope teams in alpinism . 1st edition. Bruckmann Verlag, Munich 2008, pp. 25 f., ISBN 978-3-7654-4496-8 .
- ↑ Rockslide on the Einserkofel. ORF , October 13, 2007, accessed on June 22, 2015 .
- ↑ Fischleintal will be monitored regularly in the future - on-site inspection. South Tyrolean administration, October 17, 2007, accessed on June 22, 2015 .
- ↑ Dolomiti: piccolo crollo a Cima Uno, nessun ferito. Alto Adige , July 20, 2011, accessed May 8, 2019 (Italian).