Hawaiian shirt

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Man wearing a typical Hawaiian shirt during the Aloha Festival Floral Parade 2012

Hawaii shirt is the German name for the Aloha shirt or Hawaiian shirt . It is part of the typical casual wear on the Hawaiian islands and was also best known as a typical souvenir . In Hawaii's business life, the Hawaiian shirt is also increasingly being accepted as an item of clothing outside of the tourism industry.

History of origin

The roots of the Hawaiian shirt are in the 19th century. Colorful shirts appeared in the streets of Honolulu around 1840, which Hawaiian boys and men wore over their trousers. There is no Hawaiian-Polynesian name for these items of clothing.

In the first decade of the 20th century, two shirt styles were particularly popular with the Polynesian population and Filipino immigrants: the loose-fitting bayan , also known as barong tagalog , and palaka , the work shirt of the plantation workers and Hawaiian cowboys, the paniolos . The Filipino bayan contributed to the fact that shirts in Hawaii have only been worn over pants since then. The thick, rough, indigo-blue and white checked cotton shirt originally from Japan, which the Polynesians named palaka , or work smock , is developing into a kind of national costume . Until the late 1920s, wearing these brightly colored baggy shirts was a feature of marginalized social groups. In 1924 James P. Kneubuhl from Pago-Pago , who attended a dance course in Honolulu, caused a sensation with his shirts. He had them made from fabrics that were printed with traditional tapa patterns from his homeland, Samoa . His dance teacher was so enthusiastic about his style of clothing that she ordered fabrics of the same pattern from Kneubuhl's Samoan relatives and from Musa-Shiya Shoten Ltd. Had shirts sewn for the entire dance school class. The triumphant advance of the Aloha shirt began. Within a few weeks, Honolulus jeunesse dorée was wearing colorful, bespoke shirts made from yukata , a cool, light cotton fabric for Japanese children's clothing. Because of the narrow lengths of fabric, ten pieces of fabric had to be cut for the shirt of a teenager or adult - a tradition that manufacturers of classic Hawaiian shirts still adhere to today. Tourists and soldiers also showed lively interest in the cheerful shirts, which were made within a few days by specially trained tailors.

On June 28, 1935, the Musa-Shiya Shoten Ltd. for the first time in an ad in Hawaii Creole English for a colorful sports shirt known as the Aloha shirt - the price was 95 cents.

At the beginning of the 1930s, shirts made from Japanese kimono fabrics with very colorful motifs became more and more fashionable. In 1936 and 1937, respectively, Ellery J. Chun registered the names Aloha Sportswear and Aloha Shirt as trademarks for the first time . Chun and Koichiro Miyamoto were among the first successful manufacturers of Hawaiian shirts.

Tourists from the mainland states of the USA and in the 1940s the soldiers stationed in Hawaii made the Hawaiian shirt more and more popular. The permission granted in 1947 to Honolulu City and County Government employees to wear Hawaiian shirts in plain, plain colors over their trousers for the period June 1 through October 31, marked the beginning of a gradual resolution of strict public sector dress codes and other western areas of society. The introduction of Aloha Friday (1966) and the two years later expansion to include members of parliament and the Senate brought about a breakthrough in a casual dress code that is now taken for granted in the 50th US state . In the 1950s, the production of Hawaiian shirts reached its first peak.

Coconut sellers in London, 2013

Today the Hawaiian shirt is one of the typical souvenirs that tourists take with them as souvenirs and thus contribute to its worldwide distribution. Influences on the motifs and colors of outerwear can also be seen again and again in Germany. In Hawaii the Hawaiian shirt is an integral part of casual clothing and is increasingly being accepted as festive outerwear, especially in combination with leis . Old brands such as Kalakaua are being restored after a temporary break, while designers like Sig Zane are developing new cuts and patterns that continue old traditions. There are also very old workshops such as the H. Miura Country Store in Haleʻiwa, founded in 1918 .

Well-known designers and their designs

  • Ethel Lum , Ellery J. Chun's sister , came from art school. She is considered the first Hawaiian shirt designer. Her best-known and still popular pattern designs mālolo , dt. " Flying fish " and kihikihi , named after a Hawaiian fish ( halter fish ), were thematically based on design standards that were valid in the 1920s and 30s - tropical underwater scenes were simply in fashion.
  • Elsie That
  • John "Keoni" Meigs
  • Betty Gregory
  • Vera Stone Cook
  • Myron Van Brundt
  • Ted and Marguerite Mundorf
  • Frances and Alan Delpech
  • Mansfield Claflin
  • Tony Walker
  • Louis Pohl
  • Alfred Shaheen

Known porters

President Truman and staff on vacation in Key West , Florida , 1951
Jürgen von der Lippe with his trademark

The Hawaiian shirt became known in the USA and around the world primarily through Duke Kahanamoku . Alongside and after him, Bing Crosby ( Waikiki Wedding , 1937), Montgomery Clift and Frank Sinatra ( Damned in All Eternity , 1953), Elvis Presley ( Blue Hawaii , 1961) and Tom Selleck ( Magnum , 1980–1988) provided for the Spread of this symbol. Also the cover picture of Life magazine . December 10, 1951, which featured President Harry S. Truman in a Hawaiian shirt, contributed to popularization. Linked to this was the connection of a certain attitude towards life with the Hawaiian shirt.

The Hawaiian shirt is also a trademark of the German comedian Jürgen von der Lippe .

Materials used and authenticity

For the production of Hawaiian shirts, silk , crepe de chine , raw silk and cotton were initially used. By the mid-1930s, viscose was one of the most frequently used raw materials for Hawaiian shirts. The synthetic fiber absorbed printing ink far better than any other type of fabric and thus provided an incomparably rich depth of color. In addition, viscose gives its wearer a more tactile, more intense, even more silky wearing comfort than the actual silk. In the 1960s, with a few exceptions, polyester, acrylic and synthetic blended fabrics replaced all materials previously used. Since the beginning of the 1980s, shirts have been made from silk, cotton, cotton blends and viscose again.

Hawaiian shirts were and are also made outside of Hawaii, but then less accepted by connoisseurs and collectors. Since 2016 there is also a company that produces Hawaiian shirts with local motifs in Germany. In the early 1960s, the Hawai'i Chamber of Commerce stipulated that only Hawaiian shirts made in Hawaii were to be recognized as genuine.

The following are important features of Hawaiian shirts:

  • straight hem at the bottom (not round like shirts worn in trousers)
  • Coconut shell buttons
  • Pockets that don't break the pattern

The quality of the prints and certain labels are also important quality features.

Shirt pattern

Motifs

The very diverse patterns can be divided into the following groups of motifs:

  • Hawaiian (flowers, trees, fruits, animals, musical instruments, figures of gods)
  • Based on tapas or Hawaiian petroglyphs
  • historical (kings, coats of arms)
  • Landscapes and architectural motifs (e.g. Diamond Head , Royal Hawaiian Hotel)
  • Japanese (animals, landscapes)
  • tourist scenes ( surfers , lūʻau )

The arrangement of the motifs can also be very different. In addition to complete scenes, there are also motif chains and endless motifs as well as small-scale pattern compositions.

Special forms of the Hawaiian shirt

Hawaiian shirt with printed inside ( reverse print )
  • The Picture Shirt was created towards the end of the 1930s, probably the most expensive Hawaiian shirt in terms of textile technology. Photo collages made from popular postcard motifs from popular vacation spots are hand-printed on silk fabrics, usually in one color in red, green, blue and brown. But there are also multi-colored shirts that are striking due to their soft color nuances, but only in small numbers.
  • After the Second World War, the Californian sportswear manufacturer Ocean Pacific developed a special form of the Hawaiian shirt in which the inside is printed ( reverse print ). As a result, the pattern appears strongly muted and less intense in color. The aim of this printing technique was to make the shirts look as if they were bleached by salt water and the sun and thus become a nostalgic treasure.
  • In the mid-1960s, a cut appeared that was known under the Hawaiian-Polynesian name Pua Pua , short in English. It was a long-sleeved, white cotton shirt with an open collar, which was patterned in color at the waist and was supposed to be reminiscent of a cummerbund . This shirt was intended as a replacement for evening suit and tie.

Collections and Research

Hawaiian shirts are collected by both private collectors and museums such as the Smithsonian Institution's National Textile Collection . The Aloha Shirt is listed as an object of art historical research in the Art & Architecture Thesaurus of the Getty Research Institute . David Bailey ( Bailey's Antique Clothing ) in Honolulu is one of the best known dealers of antique Hawaiian shirts.

Oddities

On the occasion of its 25th company anniversary, the Hawaiian shirt manufacturer Tori Richard had jewelers set the collar of a hand-printed Hawaiian shirt made of Italian silk with 20¼-carat diamonds and set in 18-carat gold, and seven diamond buttons were made.

President Bill Clinton , on his inaugural visit to Hawaii in July 1993, wore a shirt from the Reyn Spooner Reverse Print Collection called "The 50th State".

literature

  • Te Rangi Hiroa (Sir Peter H. Buck): Arts and Crafts of Hawaii . Section V "Clothing". Special Publication. Bernice P. Bishop Museum, Honolulu 1964.
  • Udo Pini : Heaven on your stomach: the expensive shirts from Hawaii. In: FAZ magazine. August 31, 1984, pp. 1, 16-21.
  • H. Thomas Steele: The Hawaiian Shirt . Cross River, New York 1984, ISBN 0-89659-419-X .
  • DeSoto Brown: The Aloha Shirt: A Colorful Skratch of Island History. In: Aloha. 10.5, Oct 1, 1987, pp. 42-45.
  • Maximiliane Saalfrank: The Hawaiian shirt as an American icon . Unpublished master's thesis. Ludwig Maximilians University, Munich 1993.
  • Maximiliane Saalfrank: In or out? In: Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin. No. 24, June 16, 1995.
  • Mark A. Blackburn: Hawaiiana. The Best of Hawaiian Design with Values . Schiffer Publishing, Atglen PA 1996, ISBN 0-7643-0109-8 , pp. 119-160: Chapter: Men's Clothing
  • Nancy D. Schiffer: Hawaiian Shirt Designs . Schiffer Publishing, Atglen PA 1997, ISBN 0-7643-0054-7 .
  • Linda B. Arthur: Aloha Attire: Hawaiian Dress in the Twentieth Century . Schiffer Publishing, Atglen PA 2000, ISBN 0-7643-1015-1 .
  • DeSoto Brown, Linda B. Arthur: The Art of the Aloha Shirt . Island Heritage, Waipahu 2002, ISBN 0-89610-405-2 .
  • Dale Hope (with the help of Gregory Tozian, from the American by Thomas Bauer): The Aloha Shirt: the Hawaiian shirt - an attitude towards life . Frederking and Thaler, Munich 2002, ISBN 3-89405-449-2 .
  • Timothy J. Trask: The Aloha Shirt: Tailored Expressive Culture . Thesis. Utah State University, American Studies, 2003.
  • Nancy D. Schiffer: Hawaiian Shirts: Dress Right for Paradise . Schiffer Publishing, Atglen PA 2005, ISBN 0-7643-2143-9 .

See also

Web links

Wiktionary: Hawaiian shirt  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Hawaiian Shirts - Aloha Shirts History ( Memento of the original from June 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.shop-aloha.com
  2. ^ Frances Ramsay Delpech: A Century of Hawaiian Fashions. In: Paradise of the Pacific. 62.11, November 1950, p. 28.
  3. ^ Maximiliane Saalfrank: The Hawaiian shirt as an American icon. Uncompromised Master thesis. Ludwig Maximilians University Munich, December 1993, p. 32.
  4. ↑ palaka in Hawaiian Dictionaries ; palaka (all references) in Hawaiian Dictionaries
  5. ↑ Emma Lila Fundaburk: Development of Apparel Manufacturing, Textile Designing and Textile Printing in Hawaii. Mach.-schr., Honolulu 1965, p. 18.
  6. ↑ Uprichard, Brett. "Palaka Power". Honolulu 22 (Feb. 1988). Sect. Newcomers Guide 9:20
  7. ↑ Rosand: Fashion with a Mission. In: Paradise of the Pacific. 75.4, April 1963, p. 34.
  8. ↑ Ron Ronck: The Classic Aloha Shirt Came about the 1930's. In: The Honolulu Advertiser. March 10, 1992, p. 30.
  9. ↑ Harry Lambeth: Aloha Shirts Add Local Color and $ 60,000 A Month Income. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin. October 31, 1946, p. 13.
  10. ↑ Photo of the Musa Shiya Store from 1934 downwindproductions.com .
  11. ↑ DeSoto Brown: The Aloha Shirt: A Colorful Skratch of Island History. In: Aloha. 10.5, Oct 1, 1987, p. 44.
  12. ^ Naomi Hirahara: Distinguished Asian American business leaders. Westport 2003, ISBN 1-57356-344-7 , pp. 42-44.
  13. ↑ Ellery Chun, creator of aloha shirt, dies at 91. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin. June 6, 2000.
  14. ↑ see June Watanabe: Isle dry goods store sews patchwork of success. From its silks early on to its Hawaiian prints today, the 100-year-old Musashiya Inc. survives by serving customer demand. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin.
  15. ↑ DeSoto Brown: The Aloha shirt: A Colorful Skratch of Island History. In: Aloha. 10.5, October 1, 1987, p. 44.
  16. ↑ after Mike Gordon: Aloha shirts. In: The Honolulu Advertiser. July 2, 2006 and "Wear Aloha" Exhibit Opens At Honolulu Hale. June 8, 2006; on the other hand, probably erroneously 1965 after Dale Hope: The Aloha shirt.
  17. ↑ see ( Haleʻiwa , engl.)
  18. ↑ mālolo in Hawaiian Dictionaries
  19. ^ Kihikihi in Hawaiian Dictionaries
  20. ↑ see Saalfrank, 38
  21. ↑ see Waikiki Wedding
  22. ↑ see From Here to Eternity
  23. ↑ see Blue Hawaii and Elvis Presley filmography.
  24. ↑ see Magnum, PI and Tim Ryan: HIFF honors Selleck. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin. November 10, 2000.
  25. ↑ with the article The President of the United States - Evolution of a Wardrobe.
  26. ↑ see The Aloha Shirt. ( Memento from August 2, 2007 in the web archive archive.today ) Harry S Truman National Historic Site
  27. ↑ Saalfrank, p. 44.
  28. ↑ Patricia McLaughlin: Hawaiian Hip. In: Rolling Stone. 426/427, July 19 to Aug. 2, 1984, p. 64.
  29. ↑ see also viscose and rayon
  30. ↑ Saalfrank, p. 114.
  31. ↑ Elena Müller: Make the summer a little better . In: Frankfurter Rundschau. 72nd volume, No. 164, 16./17. July 2016, p. 46f.
  32. ↑ Kelli Abe Trifonovitch: Reyn's Man. ( Memento from February 21, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) In: Hawaii Business. March 2002.
  33. ↑ see Royal Hawaiian Hotel (Engl.)
  34. ^ H. Thomas Steele: The Hawaiian Shirt. Cross River, New York 1984, ISBN 0-89659-419-X , pp. 55, 56.
  35. ↑ Ellen Paris: Aloha from Hawaii. In: Forbes Magazine. Sep 30, 1991, p. 73.
  36. ↑ Nadine Kam: Fashions: From Muus to Crazy Shirts. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin, Feb 12, 1989, Supplement, pp. 25, 34.
  37. ↑ see Summer Cool… Going Vintage Hawaiian! and The complete guide to: The great American exports.
  38. ↑ aloha shirts
  39. ↑ see Ben Wood: Polo crowd says aloha to Alika. In: Honolulu Star Bulletin. September 23, 2000.
  40. ↑ Bob Krauss: The World of High (-Cost) Fashion: Buy this Shirt and Lose Your Shirt. In: The Honolulu Advertiser. Feb 20, 1981, p. A 14.
  41. ↑ Wayne Harada: Wearing Aloha on Your Sleeve. In: The Honolulu Advertiser. July 18, 1933.