Hotzenwald costume

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Hauensteiner, watercolor etching by Samuel Gränicher 1783
Girl in Hauenstein summer costume, gouache by Markus Dinkel around 1800
Farmer's wife in Hauensteiner everyday clothes, drawing by Samuel Gränicher 1783
Shepherd boy lolling around , aquatint by Marquard Wocher around 1790
Hauensteiner entertainment, lithograph after FD Seupel, 1829

The Hotzenwälder Tracht (also Hauensteiner Tracht) is the traditional costume on the Hotzenwald , a region in Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany , on the border with Switzerland .

history

Basic elements of the Hotzenwald costume come from the Habsburg-Spanish fashion of the 16th century. The first known documentary mention of the costume comes from 1717. In homage to Emperor Karl VI. in Luttingen and Dogern the Hotzen "... everyone with black hats, red cups and white stockings ..." appeared.

When in May 1770 Marie Antoinette on her way to her wedding with Louis XVI. Arrived in Freiburg in Paris , two Hotzen companies performed there as part of the celebrations, and their clothing is described in more detail. "They need so much stuff for their wide, folded trousers that someone else could buy two pairs of them; ..."

The costume has not only changed over time, it has also been different depending on the everyday and holiday clothing. There were also variations in the appearance of older and younger people as well as dignitaries. Particularly noticeable about the costume were the men's bloomers and the special shape of the straw hat worn by both sexes in summer. For men, the costume was also the uniform of the Landwehr .

Use of the costume

The costume painter Johann Baptist Tuttiné dealt intensively with the Hotzenwald costume and reports that this costume was generally worn until the 1840s, but only by a few old people in 1884, while the younger ones had not used the costume for 20 to 30 years . Due to the Karlsruhe costume parade organized by Tuttiné on September 22, 1881 , the Hotzenwald costume highlighted there experienced a certain renaissance. On church occasions, such as the procession that takes place on the Sunday after March 6th, on which the anniversary of the death of St. Fridolin is celebrated in Bad Säckingen , the use of the costume persisted until the last third of the 19th century. Today this revived tradition is cultivated in traditional costume clubs. Historical Hauenstein costumes can be seen in the Germanic National Museum in Nuremberg , the Black Forest Costume Museum in Haslach and in the Görwihl Local History Museum.

Distribution area

County of Hauenstein 1780

The area of ​​distribution of the costume lies between the Upper Rhine and Feldberg and basically corresponds to the former County of Hauenstein , which belonged to Upper Austria until 1806 and was then incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Baden . The area extends from the Upper Rhine in the south to the heights of the southern Black Forest south of St. Blasien and around Höchenschwand in the north. To the west, the border runs along the slopes and in the valley of the Wehra . In the east, the Schlucht and Schwarza essentially form the border. In neighboring Klettgau is Klettgauer costume worn.

The women's costume

The women wear a petticoat that peeks out from under the pleated skirt and contrasts with the color. The body is sewn to the pleated skirt, and the sleeves of a white linen shirt protrude from it, which extends to the elbow. A chopen reaching to the waist was worn over the body. Black or dark tones were common among older women, while girls preferred bright colors. An apron (Fürtuch) was worn over the skirt.

The headgear of the women's costume was the shoe hat in the summer when working in the fields - a straw hat with a coating of lime varnish. A bonnet or cap tied under the chin was often worn under the shoe . On feast days, on the other hand, single women used a decorated crown-like headpiece, the so-called Schäppel .

The men's costume

The men wore a white linen shirt with wide sleeves. The Sunday shirt was adorned with a ruff (Krös) . A red breast cloth was worn over this, which reached down over the hips and had an incision on both sides of the hips to make it easier to sit. On the neck the breast cloth was decorated with black velvet ribbon or embroidery. On festive occasions, the long skirt made of dark cloth - later black velvet - was worn over it. This had no buttons and no collar, but was held together at the neck by a leather strap. The local dignitaries ( unification masters ) stood out with blue, later red, skirts.

The special feature of the Hotze costume were with many narrow gusseted black baggy trousers , which was drawn without braces. In the middle of the 19th century, bloomers were partially replaced by black knee breeches made of velvet. Below the knee, the trousers were tied to the white knee-high socks with nestles.

Black loafers with red-dyed leather flaps that hung over the instep or black boots with yellow cuffs formed the footwear. The headgear was a whitewashed straw hat with a low cup. Dignitaries wore a black felt hat with a high gupf. The Sunday headgear was a black lacquered straw hat with a narrow, slightly curved brim and a cylinder head tapering towards the top. This shape was replaced by a wide-brimmed felt hat around 1840. Young boys wore round green velvet hats.

The reception of the Hotzenwald costume

With Christian von Mechel

Christian von Mechel's interest in the Hauenstein costume can be traced back to July 26, 1777. On this Saturday he accompanied Johann Kaspar Lavater on a walk from Waldshut to Dogern . Mechel seems to have remembered the peculiar Hauenstein costume. When the collection of paintings at Belvedere Palace in Vienna was reorganized in 1781 , he mistakenly believed he recognized a Black Forest farmer in the picture of a farmer in a hut, which was painted by Christopher Paudiß in 1664 . The similarity, however, was based on the same time reference of the fashionable details. When he returned to Basel in 1783, von Mechel commissioned his favorite student, Samuel Gränicher , to draw traditional costumes on a tour of Switzerland. On the way back via Hallau , Gränicher drew the full-body portraits of a young farmer, a middle-aged farmer's wife in the field and an older man in traditional Hauenstein costume at a snack between Waldshut and Dogern on von Mechel's order. The drawings were engraved by Gränicher in the same year and colored with opaque colors. Due to their extraordinary success, they experienced repeated reprints up to the end of the century. Due to the taste of international customers, von Mechel replaced the cider jug ​​in the picture of the old man with a guttere with red wine.

Johann Peter Lever

Lever already highlighted the Hauensteiner and wrote a short game in 1806 that was played in Karlsruhe on social occasions.

Joseph Victor von Scheffel

Scheffel lived in Säckingen from 1850 to 1851 and mentions the Hotzenwald costume on various occasions. In his travel pictures he gives a description of the men's costume: “… a short velvet push-up that goes to the knee without a collar and buttons, held together at the front over the chest by a nested ribbon, is their 'gear'; instead of the waistcoat they wear a red, almost as long 'fur scarf' or 'breast bib', trimmed with velvet stripes and like a mail shirt must be thrown over the head when putting on. The neck is surrounded by a pleated shirt, often with a large collar that is laid out in artificially ornate folds; Harem pants, laid one on top of the other, reach to the knee, white stockings with ragged shoes or large boots with light leather caps close off the man according to his lower relationships. On his head he wears either the fur cap, which is obligatory in summer and winter, or a pointed, rolled-up, black-colored straw hat with a wide velvet ribbon, which is the same for all seasons. The short 'Tubakpfifli' in the mouth should not be forgotten either. "

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ s. Fladt p. 205
  2. ↑ s. Fladt p. 206
  3. ↑ Description of the festivities, which on the occasion of the passage of Her Royal Highness the most brilliant woman Dauphine, Marien Antonien, Archduchess of Austria, [et] c. organized by the front-Austria-Breissgau estates, printed by Johann Andreas Satron, kaiserl. royal Government, chamber and university book printers and booksellers, 1770 digitized
  4. ↑ s. Fladt p. 206
  5. ^ Paul Eisenbeis: Beginning and end of the colorful "Hotzen Costumes", in: Badische Zeitung of May 24, 2011; Retrieved June 13, 2013
  6. ↑ articles from Wikipedia County Hauenstein copied
  7. ↑ s. wikipedia Schühut
  8. ↑ the whole section is based primarily on Fladt's article
  9. ↑ blue and green were also used in the 18th century
  10. ↑ Alemannic Tschopen from the Italian giubba
  11. ↑ also called Hoze ; The name Hotzen is partly attributed to these pants
  12. ↑ this form is said to have originally been the general headgear
  13. ↑ Christian von Mechel: Directory of the paintings in the Imperial Royal Picture Gallery in Vienna, without publisher information, Vienna, 1783, p. 291 N ° 25
  14. ↑ Johann Peter Hebel: The Hauensteiner peasant wedding . in: JP Hebel's complete works - Allemannic and High German poems, second volume, Karlsruhe 1834, pp. 73–77
  15. ↑ today Bad Säckingen
  16. ^ Joseph Victor von Scheffel , From the Hauenstein Black Forest. In: Johannes Franke (editor): Joseph Victor von Scheffel's complete works, Seventh Volume - Epistles and Travel Pictures I., Leipzig 1916, p. 155 online at the University of Freiburg

Web links

Commons : Hotzenwälder Tracht  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

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