Jürgen Dollase

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Jürgen Dollase (born September 16, 1948 in Oberhausen ) is a German gastronomy critic and journalist and founder of the art rock group Wallenstein .

Life

After graduating from high school in Viersen and doing military service with the Federal Border Guard , Dollase studied art, music and philosophy at the Düsseldorf Art Academy and the Universities of Cologne and Düsseldorf. He was the founder, producer, keyboardist and initially also singer of the Krautrock and Artrock group Wallenstein , which performed from 1971 to 1982.

At the beginning of the 1980s his penchant for cooking and enjoyment was awakened by a visit to the Parisian artist restaurant La Coupole . In addition, from 1988 he devoted himself intensively to painting, but did not show his oil paintings to any gallery owner. Since around 1993 his interest in cooking has also grown. Johannes Gross , the then editor of Capital magazine , encouraged him to publish in the field of gastronomy criticism in the 1990s. Soon after, he began working as a restaurant critic. He worked with the master chefs Hans Stefan Steinheuer and Ingo Holland on a book project and in 2007 with Joachim Wissler for a cookery documentary on television. Dollase lives in Mönchengladbach and is married, his wife Bärbel accompanies him on his test dinner.

family

His older brother is the German educational researcher and university professor emeritus Rainer Dollase .

plant

Jürgen Dollase has been publishing gastrosophyic columns and articles on a regular basis since 1999 . The beginning was made from 1999 to 2004 with culinary texts and gastronomy reviews on the page style of the feature section of the FAZ . From 2004 to 2016 he wrote the weekly column on taste . Since 2002, Dollase has also been writing gastronomy reviews for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung (column This is where the guest speaks ) and series such as The Special Restaurant .

From 2010 to 2014 a culinary iPhone app was added, and from 2010 to the end of 2015 the online column edible paper (with a weekly book review) was added. In addition to working for the FAZ, Dollase wrote the kitchen secrets series for the Feinschmecker from 2002 to 2010 , some of the recipes and analyzes of which can be found in Feinschmecker Bookazine No. 9 (with Harald Wohlfahrt ). Also in Feinschmecker he wrote the column Revisited from 2002 to 2010 . In the Art Newspaper that the work of chefs dedicated series was published from 2007 to 2008 plate analysis , and from 2008 to 2009 the series Fast Forward , which examined the cooking avant-garde. In 2008, Dollase also began working with the new German-language wine magazine Fine European Wine Magazin with the wine and food series . Since 2009 he has been writing a series on avant-garde cuisine for the quarterly magazine Port Culinaire , published by photographer Thomas Ruhl .

criticism

Although Jürgen Dollase is regarded as an opinion leader in matters of culinary art, he is repeatedly criticized or ridiculed by other journalists, but also by writers, because of the very special language of his articles.

In 2013, the writer Matthias Altenburg judged that Dollase's “verbal waving” spoiled his appetite and came to the conclusion: “It is also very possible, if not very likely, that Jürgen Dollase's texts will be collected in a folder at the journalism school , which bears the inscription: 'Not like that!' "

Hellmuth Karasek criticized in June 2015 in the Hamburger Abendblatt the FAZ column of Dollase, whom he described as the “FAZ Gourmet Pope”, which he “otherwise avoids reading during the year [...] because it would otherwise make [him] his stomach turns around, the bile rises and the collar bursts. ”In the following, Karasek described Dollase as a“ highly overrated colleague ”. He interrupted further quotes from Dollase's column with ridiculous statements such as: "But it gets even better, even more shocked".

But Dollase is also sometimes criticized in terms of content. The publisher and Internet pioneer Vijay Sapre wrote in his gourmet magazine Effilee in 2011 that Dollase's approach of “culinary intelligence” was problematic because it referred to a “[…] diffuse and ultimately untenable concept of intelligence”. The "lustful, passionate and unreasonable in eating and cooking" fall by the wayside. In order to substantiate his positions, Dollase also used the questionable method “intensively” of “using his own assumptions from earlier as evidence for the new theses.” At the same time, however, Sapre praised Dollase's exact tasting descriptions: “As a gastronomy critic, Dollase is known for very precise descriptions of the dishes , even critical comments are always factual. That is worth a lot in a genre that to this day is strongly influenced by personal sensitivities and pure expressions of opinion. "

Memberships

Filmography

  • Delicious! Report, 2005, 5 min., Production: ZDF , aspekte , first broadcast: December 2, 2005
  • Here and now - the culinary report: the guru with the fine tongue. Report, 2005, 45 min., Script and direction: Stefan Quante , production: WDR , January 2, 2006
  • night studio . Topic: “What is culinary intelligence? From nutrition to enjoyment. ”Guests: Jürgen Dollase, Gunther Hirschfelder and Thomas A. Vilgis . Production: ZDF , 11./12. March 2007, 59 min.
  • Masterpieces of modern culinary art. Documentation series 2007, production: ZDF, aspekte , part 6 ( memento of September 29, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) - with all six videos
  • Self-experiment with hamburger. Soggy bread and nothing else. Taste analysis of the hamburger from McDonald’s , production: FAZ , November 18, 2008, part 1 , 3:50 min. And part 2 , 4:23 min.

Works

Essays

  • Top German cuisine in an international comparison. In: Thomas Platt (Hrsg.): Pleasure barometer Germany. How we know how to live. Christian Links Verlag, Berlin 2004, ISBN 3-86153-336-7 .
  • Larousse gastronomique (German edition). Christian Verlag, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-88472-900-7 . (Foreword and various articles. Dollase as the only German member of the "Comitee gastronomique")
  • When the head comes to the stomach. Theory building in culinary arts. In: Daniele Dell'Agli (Ed.): Eating as if not. Gastrosophic models. Frankfurt 2009, ISBN 978-3-518-12518-2 .
  • The new gourmet and the changed structure of the culinary art. In: Irene Schütze (Ed.): You can argue about taste. Ingredients from the kitchen, art and science. Kadmos Verlag, Berlin 2011, ISBN 978-3-86599-087-7 .

published by Vincent Klink / Edition Vincent Klink:

  • Cotta's Culinary Almanac. Klett-Cotta, Stuttgart, from 1993, various articles
  • Small deconstruction of the taste judgment. Overdue Culinary Perception Review Considerations. In: Journal Culinaire. Volume 1, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-941121-01-4 .
  • Criticism put to the test. Plea for a revision of the restaurant criticism against the background of a general theory of cooking. In: Journal Culinaire. Volume 3, Stuttgart 2007, ISBN 978-3-941121-03-4 .

Books

New edition in the SZ Gourmet Edition, Tre Torri Verlag, Wiesbaden 2017, ISBN 978-3-960330-09-7
  • Culinary intelligence . Tre Torri Verlag, Wiesbaden 2006, ISBN 3-937963-33-2 .
  • Spices. with Ingo Holland , Tre Torri Verlag, Wiesbaden 2006, ISBN 3-937963-32-4 .
  • The FAZ Gourmetvision - 15 German top chefs, their creations and their visions. Tre Torri Verlag, Wiesbaden 2007, ISBN 978-3-937963-59-4 .
  • 45 ingenious recipes. with Harald Wohlfahrt , ( Feinschmecker special issue). Hamburg 2007, ISBN 978-3-8342-8550-8 .
  • The restaurant review. In: Satisfied cooking, eating, talking. Museum Foundation Post and Communication and Edition Braus, Frankfurt 2009, ISBN 978-3-89466-296-7 .
  • The diet in 100 years. In: Ernst A. Grandits (Ed.): 2112. The world in 100 years. Olms Verlag, Hildesheim / Zurich / New York 2012, ISBN 978-3-487-08519-7 .
  • Eat well. A call for culinary self-restraint. In: Armin Nassehi (Ed.): Kursbuch 172. Gut Leben. Murmann Verlag, Hamburg 2012, ISBN 978-3-86774-186-6 .
  • New coalitions. What does 'harmony' mean in culinary art? In: Kursbuch 174, "Choose Correctly". Murmann Verlag, Hamburg 2013, ISBN 978-3-86774-245-0 .
  • Heaven and Earth. In the kitchen of a restaurant critic. AT Verlag, Munich / Aarau 2014, ISBN 978-3-03800-875-0 .
  • Head and kitchen. The journey into the heart of taste. From the first oyster to the best kitchens in Europe . AT-Verlag, Aarau 2015, ISBN 978-3-03800-875-0 .
  • Pure, precise, sensual: holistic enjoyment - the future of eating. AT-Verlag, Aarau 2017, ISBN 978-3-038009-32-0 .
The culinary university

Web links

swell

  1. ↑ Christoph Koch: How do you actually become a restaurant critic, Jürgen Dollase? ( Memento from March 1, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) In: FAZ - Hochschulanzeiger . January 29, 2007.
  2. ↑ juergen-dollase.de
  3. ^ Philologenverband.de: Opening and greeting by the state chairman Malte Blümke
  4. ↑ haraldgrosskopf.de: Wallenstein History
  5. ↑ Jan Seghers: Diary. 19th October 2013.
  6. ↑ Hellmut Karasek: For me, it's the time of pickles and gherkins: How Jürgen Dollase's gourmet column hits me on the stomach. In: Hamburger Abendblatt.
  7. ↑ Vijay Sapre: The sole ruler In: Effilee . Issue 14.
  8. ↑ What is culinary intelligence? From nutrition to enjoyment. in the Internet Movie Database
  9. ↑ What's simmering there? In: Hamburger Abendblatt . March 2, 2007.
  10. ↑ Review: aspekte ( Memento from August 6, 2007 in the Internet Archive )
personal data
SURNAME Dollase, Jürgen
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German gastronomy critic and journalist
DATE OF BIRTH September 16, 1948
PLACE OF BIRTH Oberhausen