Ratinger Strasse

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Ratinger Strasse
De Retematäng - The Ratinger
coat of arms
Street in Düsseldorf
Ratinger Strasse
Kreuzherrenkirche
Basic data
place Dusseldorf
District Old town
Created 1384
Connecting roads Altestadt , Heinrich-Heine-Allee
Cross streets Ursulinengasse, Liefergasse, Neubrückstrasse, Ratinger Mauer, Mühlengasse
Buildings Kreuzherrenkirche , Palais Spinrath , house "Zum Schwarzen Horn"
use
User groups Pedestrian traffic , bicycle traffic , car traffic
Road design Cobblestones
Technical specifications
Street length 280 meters

The Ratinger Straße in Düsseldorf's Old Town is one of the oldest streets in the city, dating from the 14th century. The street played an important role in the history of Düsseldorf . Since its inception, Ratinger Straße has been a meeting place for various institutions and milieus. The young city's first hospital was built near the collegiate church of St. Lambertus . Between 1470 and 1544 the town hall was on Ratinger Straße. The Lords of the Cross and Coelestines built monasteries and churches. Some of the numerous restaurants are meeting places for teachers and students from the nearby art academy . The Ratinger Hof was one of the origins of early punk in Germany . Today, along with Bolkerstrasse , the street is one of the popular entertainment streets in Düsseldorf's old town. The street is called “De Retematäng” on Düsseldorfer Platt . The numerous visitors often simply call them “Die Ratinger”.

course

The street, which is only 300 meters long, runs as an extension of the old town from northwest to southeast from the corner of Ursulinengasse and Liefergasse in the direction of Heinrich-Heine-Allee .

history

Liebfrauentor, chapel and hospital
Ratinger Straße, houses 6 and 8 as well as Kreuzherrenkirche

At the time the city was founded in 1288, Düsseldorf was little more than a walled village. Over time, the modest settlement grew beyond its first city wall. In the east, behind the “Liebfrauentor”, which was at the intersection of Liefergasse (formerly Lewen Gasse) and Ursulinengasse, a small suburb including a thoroughfare formed. This street "achter [behind] the wall at the Powder Tower", which was initially outside the city walls, was included in the expanded defensive wall as part of the first city expansion in 1384. The street, which was extended by about 300 meters to the east, ended at the first Ratinger Tor . This gate was located in the city wall in the area between Mühlengasse and Ratinger Mauer . However, at least until 1663 this part of the street was still called Old Town . It was the eastern end of the inner-city part of the connecting and trading route that led from the Rhine to Ratingen . The name Ratinger Strasse is derived from this trade route. Later the old town ended again in the area of ​​the crossing Ursulinengasse / Liefergasse and was called Ratinger Straße from there . There is evidence that this new name was used from the Kreuzherrenkirche in 1738.

At the end of the 19th century, Ratinger Strasse was not one of the streets where the better people lived or even frequented. The so-called Neustadt was opened up via the New City Bridge, which was built in the 16th century and crossed the Düssel, which at that time was not yet underground. Since then, the higher classes had migrated from the narrow streets of the old town in the direction of Carlsplatz , Citadellstrasse and Flinger Strasse . Social life really did not take place in the pubs on Ratinger Strasse. These were left to the Rhine cadets, the day laborers and the more or less homeless drifters, and beer and Schabau were drunk.

Development

Mühlenplatz (today Grabbeplatz), Franz Bernhard Custodis, around 1800.JPG

A Chapel of the Virgin is said to have stood on the site of today's Kreuzherrenkirche as early as 950 . For the pilgrims who visited the chapel, a hostel, the St. Anna's Hospital, was built in the 12th century, where sick pilgrims were also cared for. In a document from 1355 this inn vicarie is mentioned. The chapel was renovated in 1399. The Lords of the Cross, also called Brothers of the Cross , who were summoned in 1438 , were entrusted with the care of the chapel and inn. From 1440 to around 1480 the Kreuzherrenkirche and the monastery buildings were built.

In 1642, the nuns of the Cölestine nuns, who were called by the ducal family from Cologne, bought houses No. 9, 11 and 13. But the monastery buildings were only erected there between 1688 and 1691. In 1696 the foundation stone for the monastery church was laid on property no. 15 and this church was consecrated on December 27, 1701. On October 7, 1794, both the monastery and the associated church were badly damaged by a major fire after cannon fire. The land with the ruins, secularized in 1803 , was auctioned at the beginning of the 19th century, and only then were the buildings renovated or rebuilt and in the 19th century served as a municipal nursing home (poor welfare institution). Through the secularization of 1803, the properties of the cross brothers expropriated and the church used as a warehouse for a long time.

It can be traced back to the 17th century that a number of houses on Ratinger Strasse bear names , some of which have been preserved to this day.

Preserved facade of the Palais Spinrath

Under the name Der Waldecksche Hof , house no. 1 was temporarily an inn in the 18th century.

Coat of arms of the descendants of Weichs zur Wenne , Liefergasse (2018)

The former house no. 3 1632, which formed the Bouverot'schen Home delivery alley no. 22 a unit, passed through donation Jan Wellem to the Freiherr von Weichs whose arms with two monkeys is located at the place of the former there gate. The often mentioned family of Eugen Bouverot sold the house to a landlord Meyer in 1883. From 1852 to the winter of 1865/1866, the members of the artists' association Malkasten had their winter bar here before they could move into the Malkasten house . The restaurant had a large room on the first floor. The painting students had rebuilt it and provided it with a stage and wall paintings. Numerous traditional theater pieces from the years 1852 to 1865 were performed on the stage designed by Fritz Gerhard . In the middle of the 19th century, the club rooms of the artists' association Malkasten were the center of social life at the Düsseldorf School of Painting , whose representatives came from "all over the world" and formed an international creative milieu . Under the landlord Heinrich Hansen, owner of the building around 1900 and a new building there from 1911, the pub became "Hansens Penn". More and more day laborers and the homeless were added to the mixed crowd that spent the evenings in the taproom . They were even allowed to spend the night there, but only standing, including Max Schmeling in the early 1920s .

Houses No. 9, 11 and 13, formerly owned by aristocratic court officials, became the seat of the Annuntiaten-Cölestiner-Kloster in the 17th century (destroyed in 1794). Ownership of the plots that lay deep in it extended as far as the riding arena on the Düssel, next to the armory and Tummelhaus Jan Wellems . The Tummelhaus was built in 1636 and was located on the ground of the then presidential building , which was on Mühlenstrasse. The entrance to the Tummelhaus was in Ratinger Strasse and led through the gate of the former Protestant free school for girls and boys of the lowest grades (main teacher Julius Baselmann (1810–1872)) in the community center No. 9 Higher daughters, the Luisen School , from 1837 their classrooms for three years. The former monastery was converted into the municipal nursing home for children . At the beginning of the 20th century, it was also known as the “institution for abandoned and neglected children”, and until its dissolution in 1920 it was under the medical direction of Arthur Schloßmann . House numbers 11 and 13 were the seat of the first Düsseldorf special clinic for ophthalmology under the direction of Albert Moore from 1862 to 1883 .

House No. 15, which has been preserved as a facade, is the baroque Palais Spinrath . The cloister church of the Cölestine nuns , built by the Venetian architect Matteo Alberti , originally stood here . At the beginning of the 19th century, the architect Adolph von Vagedes converted the building into an early Classicist house. From 1825 to 1859 the lithographic institute Arnz & Comp. their seat. The listed facade, which had survived all wars and demolitions, was integrated into the building complex of the former regional court , today Andreasquartier .

Before 1945, there were individual houses on the sites with odd numbers 23–41 that are no longer available today. The following house names have been handed down for this from the 17th century: No. 25 Zum Rad (by Aventuer) , No. 27 Zur (golden) Traube , No. 29 Of der Warden , No. 31 Im Rote Laken , No. 33 Zum Blaue Schaaf , No. 35 to the golden Schier , No. 37 to the green forest , No. 39 The Landkrone , which at the beginning of the 20th century the Wilh. Laufs was, and No. 41 House Derendorf . Even after 1945 there was a narrow residential building opposite the Im Füchschen brewery and restaurant with one of the oldest bars on Ratinger Strasse, the En de Retematäng . In 1991 the En de Retematang was closed forever. Then came the demolition.

The plots were merged and a building complex was built at number 25 at the beginning of the 21st century. The Schlösser Quartier Bohème restaurant and the large Henkel room are now located in this new building . Customs and the Düsseldorf jonges use them for meetings and events. Both the restaurant and the hall are the successors to the former brewery bar Schlösser, which was demolished around 1990, with a citizens' hall in the old town .

In house number 45, an ordinary house that belonged in the picture of Düsseldorf's old town and is no longer there, the poet Karl Immermann died in 1840 , and the gallery owner Johanna Ey had set up a bakery shop here before the First World War .

The current house No. 6 was built in 1470. It was used as a town hall ( town hall ) until around 1544 . At the beginning of the 16th century it was sold to Johann von Berck . From this or his heirs it was named Dem Schwarzenhorn. a guest house or wine house set up. In the gable of the building, a black hip horn was displayed next to the ducal coat of arms. These are now replaced by a relief with a lion's head. There is evidence that the house was owned by the von Berck family until May 13, 1639 . After that, the new owners continued to run an inn in the building until at least the end of the 19th century. A changed name for the black horn has been handed down for 1774 .

No. 10 was initially a nameless house because it was inhabited by a manor. The Redinghoven family lived here since the 17th century. From 1762 an inn was set up in the same under the name "Kaiserlicher Hof". The Ratinger Hof established itself under this address in the 1970s .

Brewery in Füchschen, instead of the "Zum Junge Bären" brewery
Ratinger Strasse (1920)

House no. 16 was first known as Im Falken around 1630 . It later lost this name when it was named In der Url , later Uehl , on the occasion of a room richly decorated with owls . Here came in the back room, "the Uelen", founded in 1879, a bunch of young officials, merchants, artists and officers together, and the association of young artists from the Academy of Fine Arts , which is Tartarus called, was here in 1886 originate. In the spring of 1880, on May 7th, the Düsseldorf rowing club was founded in 1880 . The “Uel” restaurant on Ratinger Strasse became home. The Gasthof Zur Uel , which used to be an inn brewery, is still located here today .

Golden Unicorn Restaurant , 1895

House no. 18 has also been known as the Golden Unicorn since that time . It was destroyed in 1794 by French troops, but four years later it was rebuilt in its current form and later temporarily inhabited by Councilor Friedrich Adolf Klüber and General von Briesen. Today the restaurant of the same name can be found here.

The name Im Füchschen has been known for property no.28, on which the Füchschen brewery and restaurant is located today, at least since 1640 . The house no. 30 with the former brewery "Zum Junge Bären" , the so called "Bumskeller" in the 19th century, was later integrated into the brewery Im Füchschen . The property goes through to Ritterstrasse house no. 41, where the delivery is located.

House no. 42 on the corner with Mühlengässchen was called "Zur Windmühle". The windmill emblem on the facade above the shop windows (today's address Mühlengasse 10) on Ratinger Straße is still reminiscent of the windmill of the old Ratinger Tor , which adjoined the Mühlenwall behind the Mühlengässchen.

On the property behind the Mühlengässchen and the former wall, the multi-storey car park on the corner of Heinrich-Heine-Allee is now under number 50 . In the middle of the 19th century, the so-called “Villa New York” of the entrepreneur and councilor Gustav Adolf Scheidt was located here . He had made a fortune in America and kept exotic animals on his property in the middle of the old town. With a generous donation to the animal welfare association Fauna , he made a significant contribution to the maintenance and establishment of the zoological garden , which then became the property of the city of Düsseldorf. After Scheidt's death in 1908, the "Villa New York" became the seat of the Rheinische Bahngesellschaft founded in 1896 .

On September 17, 2018, HA Schult unveiled his artwork Wall of Freedom on the corner of Neubrückstrasse.

De Retematang

Napoleon's entry into Ratinger Strasse in Düsseldorf in 1811 , painting by Wilhelm Schreuer
HA Schult (2018), Wall of Freedom

Long-time residents of Düsseldorf know the street, which young people only briefly call “Ratinger”, as “De Retematäng”. The origin and meaning of "Retematäng" is in the dark. Various popular explanations have emerged, according to which it is essentially a question of corruptions of the street name by local Italian plasterers or French soldiers from the time of occupation. The Düsseldorf old town original and first post-war Hoppeditz Jupp Schäfers explained the origin of the term by an alleged saying by Napoleon when he visited the Grand Duchy of Berg in November 1811. According to this, he was surprised when he moved to Düsseldorf early in the morning, on Ratinger Straße there were over 20 open restaurants and called out “Rue du Matin” (Street of the Morning). The people of Düsseldorf who did not speak French would have understood “Retematang”.

“When at that time, eighteen hundred and twelve years old, the French Emperor Napolium, Fröhmorjens, met Mann on Ross on Ware, the Ratingerstroß came up, there were already twenty inns op. Dat wanted such a Jrenadier nit en d'r Kopp. Hä clapped en de Häng [hands] - On reef op French: "Rue de Matäng"! [Street of the morning] - on so ö few blare, between the peds, on between the goods, rejoicing in a new-jean demm Kniepmeiers Schäng: "What did you see?" Thu säht da: "Retematäng" "

- Jupp Schäfers

With his song “Mer are us de Aldestadt”, Jupp Schäfers continued with the refrain “Mir sin us de alde Stadt, us de Retematäng. I speak correctly “Platt on loope op de Häng ” , the street on Düsseldorfer Platt a musical monument.

literature

  • Theo Lücker: Stones speak - historical guide through Düsseldorf's old town , Volume 1: From Ratinger Tor to Paul-Fehlen-Haus , Verlag der Goethe-Buchhandlung, Düsseldorf, 1983, ISBN 3-924331-02-2
Wolfgang Rolshoven (President of the Düsseldorfer Jonges eV)
  • Karl Böcker, Addi Hansen, Andrea Wark (eds.): The Ratinger Strasse. The art and cult mile in Düsseldorf's old town , JP Bachem Verlag, Cologne, 2018, ISBN 978-3-7616-3147-8

Web links

Commons : Ratinger Straße  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 12.
  2. ^ Joseph Bücheler, in: Das Gasthaus der Stadt Düsseldorf or the St. Hubertus Hospital. 1849, p. [12] 6. (Online version)
  3. ^ Alfons Houben: Düsseldorf. How it was then - how it is today. WI-Verlag, Düsseldorf 1983, ISBN 3-88785-006-8 , p. 182.
  4. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 29.
  5. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 31.
  6. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 30.
  7. ↑ Ulrich Brzosa: The history of the Catholic Church in Düsseldorf: from the beginnings to secularization , Böhlau Verlag, ISBN 3-412-11900-8 , p. 311ff
  8. ^ Paul Clemen: The art monuments of the city and the district of Düsseldorf. On behalf of the Provincial Association of the Rhine Province . Düsseldorf, 1894, p. 54 Digital edition
  9. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, pp. 25-45.
  10. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 26.
  11. ↑ Erwin Quedenfeldt : Photo Düsseldorf, coat of arms at the house at Liefergasse 22 with 2 monkeys and a mirror , 1909 , in single pictures from the Lower Rhine, on ULB
  12. ^ H. Ferber: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf , 1889, pp. 26-27
  13. ^ Wilhelm Camphausen : For the last festival of the "Malkasten" in the old club house, Ratingerstraße No. 3 , Hofdruckerei Voß, Düsseldorf, 1865, digital collection, Heinrich Heine University
  14. ^ Bettina Baumgärtel: Ratinger Straße, Altstadt and Heinrich-Heine-Allee. In: Places of the Düsseldorf School of Painting. Rhenish Association for Monument Preservation, Cologne 2011, ISBN 978-3-86526-069-7 , p. 42
  15. ^ Karl Böcker, Addi Hansen: The Ratinger Strasse, history and stories of the art and cult mile in Düsseldorf's old town . JP Baches, Cologne, 2010, ISBN 978-3-7616-2373-2 , excerpt from p. 243
  16. ↑ Sabine Schroyen: “A true brotherhood seems to reign among them.” The artists' association Malkasten and its international members . In: Bettina Baumgärtel (Hrsg.): The Düsseldorf School of Painting and its international impact 1819–1918 . Michael Imhof Verlag, Petersberg 2011, ISBN 978-3-86568-702-9 , Volume 1, p. 272 ​​ff.
  17. ↑ Ratingerstraße 3, Hansen, Heinrich, Gastwirth , in the address book of the city of Düsseldorf for the year 1895, p. 652
  18. ↑ Ratingerstraße 3, E. Hansen, Heinr., Gastwirt (from May 1911) , in address book for the city of Düsseldorf and the mayor's offices of Benrath, 1911, p. 292
  19. ^ Rüdiger Hoff: Where Max Schmeling hung on the ropes , NRZ , from May 10, 2014
  20. ↑ Note: Romping around actually means taming horses, riding them. Hence the Tummelstall, the stable for riding horses, roughly synonymous with Tummelhaus, and that was the riding school.
  21. ↑ Note: The meadow area between Mühlenweg and Düssel (north of today's Mühlenstraße) soon became the largest building complex of the electoral government. Wilhelm the Rich had started with a stables and a comedy house in the 16th century . From this a riding arena and Tummelhaus (riding school) developed, later an opera and governor's residence.
  22. ^ History of the City of Düsseldorf , Düsseldorfer Geschichtsverein, Kraus, Düsseldorf, 1888, p. 380 digitized
  23. ^ History of the City of Düsseldorf , in History of the Evangelical Congregation of Düsseldorf, Düsseldorfer Geschichtsverein, Kraus, Düsseldorf, 1888, p. 142 digitized
  24. ↑ Victor Uellner. In: On the history of the municipal Luisenschule . 1887, Düsseldorf, Voss, p. [31] 17.
  25. ^ Municipal children's nursing home, Ratinger Str. 9/13, prison doctor: Professor Dr. Schloßmann, in address book for the municipality of Düsseldorf, 1920 , p. 46 ( uni-duesseldorf.de )
  26. ↑ J. Hoß: Albert Mooren - An ophthalmologist in the 19th century . Ed .: Dissertation Uni Düsseldorf. Trilsch Verlag, Düsseldorf 1980, p. 53 .
  27. ↑ Municipal Eye Clinic (Ratingerstr. 11 and 13): Dr. Mooren, doctor in charge, compiled in the address book of the Lord Mayor's Office of Düsseldorf on July 1, 1863. II. Public authorities, private companies, associations., P. 164
  28. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, pp. 32-34.
  29. ↑ Historical picture of the house En de Retematäng , on bilderbuch-duesseldorf.de
  30. ↑ Mutter Ey , article from November 6, 1958 in the zeit.de portal , accessed on November 26, 2015.
  31. ^ A b H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 36.
  32. ↑ H. Ferber: In: Historical walk through the old city of Düsseldorf. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association. Verlag C. Kraus, Delivery I, 1889, p. 37.
  33. ^ Woldemar Harleß:  Redinghoven, Johann Godfried von . In: Allgemeine Deutsche Biographie (ADB). Volume 27, Duncker & Humblot, Leipzig 1888, pp. 534-536.
  34. ^ Url Freundeskreis 1879
  35. ↑ Roland Demme: From the rectory to anti-Semitic politics: agitation by Friedrich Bindewald and his role model Dr. Otto Böckel against the Jewish population in ... the epoch and its effects to this day in the chapter "Tartarus" Association - part of the Malkasten Art Association . Kassel University Press, 2015, ISBN 978-3-86219-932-7 , p. 57.
  36. ↑ Alexander Scherer, Maik Kopleck (ed.): PastFinder Düsseldorf . PastFinder, Hong Kong 2008, ISBN 978-988-99780-5-1 , p. 35.
  37. ↑ Note: Colloquially "notorious inn".
  38. ↑ Ratingerstraße: No. 50 (Scheidt, Ad. GE = owner); No. 52 (Villa New-York, corner of Allee- and Ratingerstrasse) Scheidt, Adolf G., Pensionner E .; No. 54 Scheidt, Ad. Pensioner E. , in the address book of the Lord Mayor of Düsseldorf for the year 1890, p. 203
  39. ↑ Ratingerstraße 50 (E. Scheidt, GA, Wwe., Villa New York), Rheinische Bahngesellschaft , in address book for the city of Düsseldorf, 1910, p. 274
  40. ^ Theo Lücker: The Düsseldorf old town as nobody knows it. Volume I: From Ratinger Tor to Short Street. 2nd Edition. Verlag der Goethe-Buchhandlung, Düsseldorf 1985, ISBN 3-924331-06-5 , p. 63ff.
  41. ↑ "Mer are us de Aldestadt", text and music: Jupp Schäfers , on duesseldorfermelodien.de
  42. ^ Düsseldorf - De Retematäng , on youtube.com

Coordinates: 51 ° 13 ′ 46.3 "  N , 6 ° 46 ′ 30.9"  E