Black Wall (Venediger Group)
| Black wall | ||
|---|---|---|
 High fence, black wall and Großvenediger and Kleinvenediger from the Gschlößtal |
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| height | 3503 m above sea level A. | |
| location | East Tyrol ( Austria ) | |
| Mountains | High glacier roof , Venediger Group ( Hohe Tauern ) | |
| Dominance | 0.43 km → Rainerhorn | |
| Notch height | 49 m ↓ notch to the Rainerhorn | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 6 '15 " N , 12 ° 22' 9" E | |
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| rock | Central gneiss of the Tauern window with feldspar | |
| First ascent | 1864 by Robert Lendlmayer von Lendenfeld , led by Urban Steiner and Balthasar Ploner (information not secure) | |
| Normal way | from Defreggerhaus over the Mullwitzaderl , the Schwarze-Wand-Törl over the southwest ridge | |
| particularities | Northeast face inclined up to 60 ° | |
The Black Wall , formerly also known as the Krystallkopf , is a mountain in the Middle Tauern main ridge, 3511 meters according to literature, but only 3503 meters according to the Austrian Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying . This ridge is located in the Hohe Tauern , a part of the Central Alps in the east of the Austrian state of Tyrol . The Black Wall is the fourth highest mountain in the Venediger Group and is located in the glacier region Hohes Gletscherdach . It was first climbed, according to unsecured information, in 1864 by Baron Robert von Lendenfeld and the mountain guides Urban Steiner and Balthasar Ploner from Prägraten am Großvenediger . The south side of the mountain is covered by a gently sloping glacier until just below the summit and is easy to climb. The north face, on the other hand, the actual Black Wall, is over 300 meters high and can only be climbed in difficult alpine climbing . Tours of this wall have only been taken since the mid-1920s.
Surroundings
The mountain is surrounded by the Schlatenkees, which are rich in crevasses . In the south, near the summit, lies the Eisscheide , which separates the Schlatenkees from the Outer Mullwitzkees . Neighboring mountains in the southwest are the 3560 meter high Rainerhorn at a distance of a good 500 meters and in the southeast, 700 meters away, the Hohe Zaun at 3457 meters. The highest mountain in the area, the Großvenediger ( 3657 m ) is two kilometers to the west. The next significant settlement is Innergschlöß in the Gschlößtal , which is about eight kilometers as the crow flies in an east-northeast direction. Prägraten, the starting point for climbing the Black Wall, is 10 km south.
Base and ascent
The Black Wall can only be reached via the glacier as a so-called alpine tour . This means that appropriate equipment and experience are required for glacier climbing. The Defreggerhaus , located at an altitude of 2962 meters north above Hinterbichl, serves as a base for ascent of the mountain . The normal route to the summit leads over the southwest ridge . From the hut, the path runs north over the Mullwitzaderl ridge and the upper Outer Mullwitzkees to the Schwarz-Wand-Törl glacier saddle at 3495 m, between the Schwarzer Wand and Rainerhorn. According to the literature, the walking time is a good two hours. The Black North Face, on the other hand, can only be climbed with very difficult alpine climbing. According to literature, the level of difficulty of the north-east pillar route , opened in 1928, according to UIAA V- is about 300 meters above sea level. No precise information is available about the ice gorge , which slopes up to 60 ° and was first climbed in 1926.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Leader Venediger Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1242-0
- Eduard Richter : Development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 36, Venediger Group
Individual evidence
- ^ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe , Munich 2006, p. 276, margin no. 1023
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe , Munich 2006, p. 276 f., Margin no. 1024 f.
