Turkish red coloring

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Pattern of turquoise colored cotton

As Türkischrotfärbung or Turkish Rotgarn , Adrianopelrot or Indian red , a bright red in the 18th and 19th centuries colored cotton referred. The dried and ground roots of the madder madder ( botanically Rubia tinctorum ), which contain a high proportion of the dye alizarin , were used as dye . An elaborate process that made it possible to produce lightfast and washfast red dyeing of cotton was decisive for the color . Earlier methods of dyeing sheep's wool with madder only resulted in a dull, brown to brick-red tone, the so-called "madder red". The tone varies depending on the manufacturing process.

The importance of the Turkish red color gradually decreased with the invention and spread of synthetic alizarin.

Manufacturing process

alizarin

The original procedure consisted of up to twenty individual steps, some of which were repeated several times and took several working days to complete. The use of sheep or cow dung, rancid oil, so-called tournant or gallipoli oil and cattle blood was essential . Over time it was found that individual steps were unnecessary. In 1868 the chemists Carl Graebe and Carl Liebermann from the Hoechst paintworks succeeded in synthetically producing the dye for this high-quality red . The dye named alizarin quickly replaced the old, laborious process. With the alizarin synthesis, the Badische Anilin- und Soda-Fabrik (BASF) opened up access to the world market.

Procedural steps

The chemism of the Turkish red coloring with madder has never been fully clarified. The value of individual dyeing operations such as cow dung and the use of animal blood is questioned today. In order to achieve a perfect red, the following six operations are still considered necessary today:

  1. Oils (impregnation of the fibers with fatty acids)
  2. Pickling (addition of clay and lime)
  3. Fix
  4. Dyeing (adding madder root powder and slowly increasing the temperature of the dye bath to 90–95 ° C)
  5. Steaming
  6. Avivating (repeated boiling in a soap solution, usually with the addition of a little tin salt)

Only the last step, the finishing, transforms the dull brown-red into the bright, true-color, fiery red.

history

Dyeing and printing textiles has a long history. Even before the introduction of the Turkish red dye works, factories were established in Europe that produced textiles in all colors. The first European stuff printing company that produced brightly colored fabrics in the Indian manner was founded in Amsterdam in 1678 by the Huguenot Jacob ter Gouw. The stuff printing presses that produced the so-called indiennes gained great importance . The India printing houses printed with madder red; after the introduction of Turkish red dyeing in Europe, they also used this new process.

There were companies that concentrated only on dyeing, while others were able to master all or several stages of textile processing, i.e. spinning, bleaching, dyeing, colored weaving and / or printing as well as marketing.

The process of Turkish red dyeing was invented in Asia Minor and spread to India . 1747 succeeded the French manufacturer , Greeks from Smyrna , the technique mastered, to settle in the South of France to move (Aubenas en Vivarais). Henri Louis Duhamel du Monceau published a first description of the process as early as 1757.

To stimulate the economy, the French government, which had meanwhile acquired the manufacturing patent, made the recipes public in 1765. Just a few months later, the knowledge was applied in Darnétal . This dyeing technique became a focal point in Rouen and the surrounding area. Greeks sacked by the Rouenians founded factories in Alsace , competed with them and later outperformed them technically and qualitatively. From Alsace the industry spread to Switzerland , Württemberg , the Rhineland and Westphalia , preferably to Elberfeld and Hagen , then to Vorarlberg and Russia . Another European center for this dyeing process was established in Scotland . The first Turkish red dyeing factory in Switzerland was established in 1784 in the Drahtschmiedli in Zurich .

The high-quality Turkish red dyeing industry in Europe replaced the import of dyed yarns and printed fabrics from the Orient . Industrial manufacturing and responding to customer needs in export markets, i.e. H. the adoption of their patterns and clothing fashions led to a brisk worldwide trade in cloth.

Initially only yarn was dyed (rope dyeing). This yarn was of great importance in colored weaving. From 1811 on, Daniel Köchlin-Schouch (Mühlhausen) made cloth dyeing (piece dyeing) more popular. Köchlin's invention of colored etching printing was groundbreaking. H. the destruction of the Turkish red lacquer in places by printing with tartaric acid and later arsenic acid and the simultaneous application of other colors.

The dyeing was not without its problems. The procedures were not hygienic and endangered workers' health. The environment has been adversely affected by odors and water pollution. Wanner writes that the operation of one of the first Turkish red dye works in the Danube Monarchy , which was founded by Christian Getzner in Feldkirch in 1819 , led to Vorarlberg's first known “ environmental scandal ” .

The clarification of the dye works wastewater was and remains a problem to this day. It is not just about environmental protection , but also always about preserving jobs.

Production facilities

Turkish red dyeing and printing works JJ Kelly in Mettendorf, Gossau SG (watercolor by Elisabeth Kelly, around 1850)

The designation Turkish red dyeing or red dye was also common for the production facilities. Since the dyeing processes required many different processes, many appropriately equipped rooms were required. In the case of larger factories, special buildings were erected, resulting in extensive factories. Landmarks of Turkish red dyeing works were the drying towers or "hanging towers", also known as "air slopes". The up to 15 m high buildings shaped the landscape for a long time. Typical examples can still be found in Switzerland in St. Gallen , Diessenhofen and Ennenda .

Fires were very common in the Turkish red industry. A common cause was self-ignition of the oiled cloths in the hot slopes, i.e. H. when the drying towers with the cloths hung in them were heated in bad weather. With the decline of Turkish red dyeing, a number of drying towers were demolished and the material was reused for other buildings.

The factory owners often lived near their factory. Many of these stately factory owners' villas were built in the classicism ( Biedermeier ) style and still bear witness to the wealth of the builders.

Economical meaning

Cassa note

The Turkish cloth dyeing, with its dependent garment printing, became one of the most important early industries. In many parts of Europe these industries were the basis for a flourishing economy, which had been established at the beginning of the 18th century with the predecessor industry ( proto-industry ), the indienne printing company.

The Turkish red printing works is regarded as an exemplary example of early capital concentration and it is pointed out that its workers formed a not insignificant part of the proletariat in the 19th century.

Turkish red printer workers were among the first to introduce cooperative social security schemes. Because these funds were mostly funded by the entrepreneurs, they are considered an early example of corporate social policy. The printers and model engravers' relief funds supported their members and their families in the event of accidents, illness and death. Since the membership certificates are each illustrated with a picture of the factories, the cash register notes document factories that often no longer exist.

Turkish red dyeing also shaped agriculture in large areas. With the spread of industry, the need for madder increased steadily and became particularly important in France. Before the invention of the artificial alizarin, madder cultivation was an important cultural factor, especially in France and the Netherlands. In 1840 madder was grown on 14,674 hectares in France and more than 16,000 tons of roots were produced annually. The change from madder to artificial alizarin also had an enormous economic impact in Germany. The utility of the invention was estimated in 1914 at one billion Reichsmarks.

Color fastness and Turkish red were an established concept and registered trademark until the 20th century .

Museums

France

  • Musée de l'impression sur étoffes, Mulhouse

Austria

Switzerland

In literature and art

  • Christiane Gibiec : Turkish red . Historical crime novel Cologne 2003, ISBN 3-89705-161-3 .
  • Ingo Schmid: Turkish Red. Room installation, 1998 in Nürtingen.
  • Theater play Turkish red by the theater group Villa Paletti in Eitorf .

literature

history

  • Fedor Felsen: Turkish red and its competitors. Berlin 1911.
  • Koechlin-Schouch: Bulletin de la Société industrial de Mulhouse. Mulhouse 1828.
  • Jean-Antoine Claude Chaptal: The Art of Coloring Turkish Red. From the French, Aarau 1807 (original title: Art de la peinture du coton en rouge ).
  • W. Wescher: Great teachers of the art of dyeing in France in the 18th century. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 22, Basel 1938, pp. 783-799.
  • Johann Michael Hausmann: Observations on the Turkish Roth. In: Magazine for dyers, fabric printers and bleachers or a collection of the latest and most important discoveries, experiences and observations for the promotion and improvement of wool, silk, cotton and linen dyeing, fabric printing and the art of bleaching. ed. by Sigismund Friedrich Hermbstaedt, Berlin 1803 (translation of Observations sur le Rouge d'Adrianople. In: Annales de Chimie etc. Volume 12, Paris 1792).
  • Claude-Louis Berthollet: Eléments de l'art de la teinture. Volume 2, Paris 1791.
  • Johann Gottfried Dingler (ed.): Magazine for the printing, dyeing and bleaching arts. 4 volumes, Augsburg 1815-1820.
  • JC Leuchs: The wild dyer and colorist. Nuremberg 1851, pp. 73–83 (digitized version )
  • K. Reinking, S. Atayolu: On the origin and early history of Turkish red . In: Melliand textile reports. 18 (1937), pp. 382-384 and pp. 459-460.
  • Jaqueline Jacqué (Ed.): Andrionole. Le rouge magnifique. De la teinture à limpression, ne cotonade à la conquete du monde. Mulhouse 1995.
  • Gustav Schaefer: On the history of Turkish red dyeing. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, pp. 1723–1732.
  • Gustav Schaefer: The cultivation and refinement of the madder root. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, pp. 1714–1722.
  • R. Haller: On the chemistry and technology of Turkish red dyeing. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, pp. 1733–1737.
  • Gustav Schaefer: The red woods. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 10, Basel 1937, pp. 341-348.
  • Christian Gottlob Hilscher: From the cultivation and commerce of madder or red dye in Germany, as a very useful national product that is extremely useful and indispensable for manufacturers and in dyeing. Leipzig 1779.

Country-specific literature

Switzerland

  • Alice Dreyer: Les toiles peintes en pays neuchâtelois. Imprimerie Delachaux et Niestlé, Neuchâtel 1923, OCLC 947179 (Dissertation (Thèse) Université de Neuchâtel 1923).
  • Hans Rudolf Maurer: Small trips in the Swiss country. Zurich 1794, pp. 286–294: The cotton towels & Trukereyen. Description of the Zurich cotton printers in Hard and Letten (digitized version)
  • Peter Tschudy: 100 years of Turkish red dyeing 1829–1928. History of the Johann Caspar Tschudi company in the "Herren", later Tschudi & Co., in Schwanden (Canton Glarus), Turkish red dyeing and printing works. Buchdruckerei Neue Glarner Zeitung, Glarus 1931, OCLC 636934484 .
  • Joseph Leugger: Turkish red in the canton of Thurgau SA from: Thurgau authorities calendar 1938/39. 1938.
  • Textilwerke Blumenegg AG 1829–1946. Anniversary font. Goldach 1946.
  • Norbert Hälg: The Turkish red print shop in Mettendorf. In: Oberberger Blätter 1988/89. Gossau 1989.
  • Yearbook of the Oberargau: Rikli Turkish red dyeing works in Wangen an der Aare. Founded in 1820. pp. 53–75 (Abraham Friedrich Rikli learned red dyeing in Rouen, France, his son in Elberfeld, Germany).
  • Klaus Sulzer: From fabric printing to red dyeing: Heinrich Sulzer (1800–1876) and the Turkish red dyeing factory in Aadorf. Chronos, Zurich 1991, ISBN 3-905278-71-5 .

Austria

  • Reinhard Mitterstreiter (ed.): Die Tüchlebarone - On the history of textile printing and textile dyeing sutrie in Hard from the late 18th to the early 20th century. Hard 1999, ISBN 3-9501103-0-5 .
  • Johann Slokar: History of Austrian Industry and its Promotion under Emperor Franz I. Vienna 1914.
  • Gerhard Wanner: Vorarlberg's industrial history. Feldkirch 1990, ISBN 3-85430-125-1 .

Germany

  • Jacques Waitzfelder: The Ausburger Johann Heinrich von Schüle, a pioneer of the textile industry in the 18th century. Leipzig 1929.
  • JR Reichert: Calico printing and dyeing. 100 years of Reichert Drucke. Lindau no year
  • Rudolf Melzer: The dye works as a commercial company. A study by the Turkish red dye works in Wuppertal . Martini & Grüttefien, Elberfeld 1910, OCLC 80925285 (Dissertation University of Heidelberg, Philosophical Faculty July 26, 1911).

France

  • Henri Clouzot: Histoire de la manufacture de Jouy et de la toile imprimée en France. Paris 1928.

Web links

Illustrations

References and comments

  1. ↑ Gustav Schaefer: On the history of Turkish red dyeing. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, pp. 1723–1732.
  2. ↑ G. Heuzé: The madder. In: Lydie Nencki: The art of dyeing with natural fabrics. translated and edited by Gisela Bächi-Gutrath and Erna Bächi-Nussbaumer. Bern / Stuttgart 1984, ISBN 3-258-03330-7 , p. 127 ff .: Cultivation, p. 138 ff .: color recipes.
  3. ↑ Gewerbemuseum Winterthur (ed.): Color pigments, dyes, color stories. Winterthur 2010, ISBN 978-3-033-02349-9 , pp. 216-217.
  4. ↑ John Wilson: An Essay on Light and Colors , Manchester 1786, pp. 21-22.
  5. ↑ Jean-Antoine Chaptal: The art of dyeing turkish red. from the French, Aarau 1807 (Original: Art de la peinture du coton en rouge. 1807), pp. 91–111.
  6. ^ Peter Tschudi: Hundred years of Turkish red dyeing 1829–1929 , Glarus 1931.
  7. ↑ C. Moutard: L'art de la teinture des fils et étoffes de coton précédé d'une théorie nouvelle des véritables causes de la fixité des couleurs de bon teint, & suivi des cultures du pastel, de la gaude & de la garance. Paris 1776.
  8. ↑ Le Pileur d'Apligny: L'art de la teinture des fils et étoffes de coton; précédé d'une Théorie nouvelle de véritables causes de la fixité des couleurs de bon teint; suivi Des cultures du pastel, de la gaude et de la garance, à l'usage des cultivateurs et des manufacture. Paris 1798, pp. 135-146. (German: Herr (Placide Auguste) Le Pileur d'Apligny: Correct and complete description of all color materials: together with clear instructions on how they should be prepared for use and properly applied in the relevant arts and professions. Klett and Franck, Augsburg 1781 ( digitized version )).
  9. ↑ DH Soxhlet: The practice of aniline dyeing and printing on cotton goods. Vienna / Pest / Leipzig 1890, p. 149. The author depicts a cow dung box and writes that cow dung also gives alizarin colors a more fiery red.
  10. ↑ Theodor Chateau: Die Fette: Doctrine of the natural fat bodies, which find technical application. Occurrence, extraction, trade, properties, changes, falsifications, as well as the means of detection and the like. Evidence of the latter. After Theodor Chateau, edited and with additions increased by Dr. Hugo Hartmann. Wolfgang Gerhard, Leipzig 1864, p. 32 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  11. ↑ April 1896 improved method by Dr. Riese, then a chemist at Hoechster Farbwerke.
  12. ↑ Fedor Felsen, p. 11: The unground madder root brought on the market from the Levant was called Lizari or Alizari ; from this the name alizarin for the colorant of madder arose.
  13. ^ Badische Anilin- und Sodafabrik (BASF). In: Historical Lexicon of Bavaria .
  14. ↑ R. Haller: On the chemistry and technology of Turkish red dyeing. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, pp. 1733–1737.
  15. ↑ U. Ferd. Blumer: Beginning and early development of stuff printing in Switzerland with special attention to the Canton of Glarus. Private print 1960, p. 3.
  16. ↑ The economic history and many company histories describe the dyeing, but concentrate more on the last stages of production, the garment printing and the colored weaving mill. Overlaps with the historiography of the indienne, and later stuff printing, cannot be avoided.
  17. ↑ Henrik Teofilus Scheffer: Essai sur l'art de la teinture, par M. Scheffer. Paris 1787, quoted from Fedor Felsen, p. 2.
  18. ^ Henri Louis Duhamel du Monceau: Mémoires sur la garance et sa culture. Paris 1757 (digitized version)
  19. ^ Mémoire Contenant Le Procédé De La Teinture Du Coton Rouge-Incarnat D'Andrinople, Sur Le Coton Filé. Imprimerie Royal, Paris 1765.
  20. ↑ Rock Fedor, p. 2.
  21. ↑ Reinhard Mitterstreiter (ed.): Die Tüchlebarone. Hard 1999, ISBN 3-9501103-0-5 .
  22. ↑ Rock Fedor, p. 3.
  23. ↑ Albert Knöpfli: The Sulzersche Rotfarben und Kattun-Druckerei zu Aadorf. In: Thurgauer Jahrbuch. Frauenfeld 1951, p. 25.
  24. ↑ Gustav Schäfer, p. 1730 f.
  25. ↑ Michel de Vinant: Traité pratique du Blanchiment de la teinture et de l'impression sur étoffes. Paris 1872 (contains many recipes for Turkish red coloring and colored etching).
  26. ↑ BF Warthon, DH Soxhlet: The calico printing. A practical guide to bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing of cotton fabrics. Vienna / Pest / Leipzig 1892 (recipes for pickling, various Turkish red oils and printing inks).
  27. ^ Gerhard Wanner: Vorarlbergs industrial history. Feldkirch 1990, ISBN 3-85430-125-1 , p. 108.
  28. ↑ Erwin Reisacher: Stony paths on the lake. Memories of a union secretary and local politician. Konstanz 1994, ISBN 3-7977-0290-6 , p. 148 f.
  29. ^ Paul Oberholzer: The red color Uznach. Uznach 1975.
  30. ^ Klaus Sulzer: From fabric printing to red dyeing. Zurich 1999, p. 225 (plan of the red dye works in Aadorf and the Sulzerhof, 1885).
  31. ↑ Jürg Davatz: Hanging towers in the Glarnerland. In: Yearbook of the Glarnerland and Walensee spa area. Glarus 1986, pp. 33-39.
  32. ↑ Tröckneturm in Schönenwegen.
  33. ^ Peter Tschudi: Hundred Years of Turkish Red 1829–1928. History of the Rotfarb und Druckerei Joh. Caspar Tschudi in Schwanden. Schwanden 1930, p. 12.
  34. ^ Rosgartenmuseum (ed.): Farewell to Herosé. The oldest industrial company in Constance closes its doors. Constance 1997.
  35. ↑ The Greuter dyeing and printing works in Islikon TG was founded in 1777 and is one of the first factories in Switzerland. Greuter started out as a blue dyer in 1767 in Kefikon TG. In 1830 red dyeing was started. As early as 1809, the company expanded into Alsace (Gebweiler) in order to bypass customs barriers. See Greuterhof, history .
  36. ↑ Joseph Leugger: Turkish red in the canton of Thurgau. Reprint from: Thurgau authorities calendar 1938/1939 .
  37. ↑ Werner Sombart : The modern capitalism. Volume II, 2nd half volume, Munich / Leipzig 1917, pp. 844 ff. For Sombart it is even the starting point of the entire industrial revolution, quoted from: Arthur Bolliger, pp. 7 and 50 ff.
  38. ↑ Pierre Caspard: Le Mouvement social. No. 97: Naissance de la classe ouvrière. October-December 1976, pp. 15-37.
  39. ↑ Arthur Bolliger: A contribution to the development of European textile printing. Basel 1950, ISBN 978-3-211-80135-2 , p. 27.
  40. ^ LA Driessen: About the Dutch calico printing and cotton industry. In: Ciba-Rundschau. No. 47, Basel 1940, p. 2250.
  41. ↑ Reinhard Mitterstreiter, p. 275.
  42. ↑ G. Heuzé in: Lydie Nenck: The art of dyeing with natural fabrics: history - methods - recipes. Translated from the French and edited by G. Bächi-Gutrath and Erna Bächi-Nussbaumer. Bern / Stuttgart 1984 (Original title: ' La science des teintures animales et végétale. ) ISBN 3-258-03330-7 , p. 27.
  43. ↑ Germany under Kaiser Wilhelm II.
  44. ^ Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes des Mulhouse .
  45. ↑ Textile Museum Mittelweiherburg .
  46. ↑ Freuler Palace: Textile Museum .
  47. ^ Museum Burghalde Lenzburg .
  48. ↑ Glarus Economic Archives .
  49. ↑ Ingo Schmid "Turkish Red" - room installation. In: Kultura extra. October 2004.
  50. ↑ Announcement poster for the performance of the play Turkish Red in the Theater am Park in Eitorf in September 2013.