Daberspitze

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Daberspitze
Daberspitze from the southeast

Daberspitze from the southeast

height 3402  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Venediger group
Dominance 1 km →  Rötspitze
Notch height 221 m ↓  Welitzscharte
Coordinates 47 ° 0 '58 "  N , 12 ° 12' 25"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 0 '58 "  N , 12 ° 12' 25"  E
Daberspitze (Tyrol)
Daberspitze
rock slate
First ascent September 17, 1873 by Georg Hofmann, led by Josef Berger and Johann Grill
Normal way from the east over the upper south ridge ( I )

The Daberspitze , formerly also called High Column (Saile) , is 3402  m above sea level. A. high mountain in the southwestern part of the Venediger group . It is located in the eastern part of the Austrian state of Tyrol , Lienz district at the western end of the Umbal Valley . The north summit has a height of 3330  m , the south summit is 3402  m high. The tip has the shape of a steep rock horn and consists of plate-shaped and brittle slate of the Tauern window . The south summit sends pronounced ridges to the north, south and west, the north summit also to the east. Some of the ascent routes lead over the ridges. The Daberspitze was first climbed on September 17, 1873 by Georg Hofmann from the DAV section Munich with the mountain guides Josef Berger and Johann Grill , known as Kederbacher .

Location and surroundings

The Daberspitze is located at the southwestern end of the Venediger group in the north-south running Umbalkamm and is partially surrounded by glaciers . In the northwest lies the Schwarzachkees , in the northeast, separated by the Daberspitzen-Nordgrat , the Welitzkees and in the southeast the small Daberkees . Neighboring mountains are in the north of the ridge, separated by the Welitzscharte at an altitude of 3181  m , the 3496  m high Rötspitze , in the east the Tredeberspitze ( 3134  m ), and the south ridge carries the 3127  m high northern Rotenmannkopf . To the east the area slopes down to the Umbaltal, to the west down to the Schwarzachtal . The closest place in Austria is Ströden im Virgental , which is about eight and a half kilometers as the crow flies to the east.

Base and ascent

The route of the first to climb in 1873 led from the newly built Clarahütte over the entire south ridge and required about six hours of walking. Today's normal route , the easiest ascent, in use since 1904, only follows the south ridge in the upper part. The Clarahütte at 2038 meters in the upper Umbal Valley also serves as a base here. The path leads as an alpine tour first in a westerly direction on the small Tredeberkees up to the southern Tredeberscharte (3080 m). The east face of the peak and the upper part of the south ridge are reached via the Daberkees . The difficulty is UIAA I at 1363 meters altitude and a walking time of five hours. Alpine climbing has been taking place on the Daberspitze since 1904. A route with the difficulty UIAA III leads through the east face gully , which is at risk of falling rocks , and also over the north ridge . In 1925 and 1938, two UIAA grade IV routes that were dangerous due to falling rocks were opened through the northwest face.

Literature and maps

Web links

Commons : Daberspitze  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Clem Clements, Jonathan de Ferranti, Eberhard Jurgalski , Mark Trengove: The 3000 m SUMMITS of AUSTRIA - 242 peaks with at least 150 m of prominence , October 2011, p. 14.
  2. ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Daberspitze on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  3. ^ Raimund von Klebelsberg : Geologie von Tirol , Berlin 1935, p. 403 u. 407
  4. ↑ Communications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , Munich 1886, p. 287
  5. ↑ Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 157 f.
  6. ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe , Munich 2006, p. 452 ff., Margin no. 1674 ff.