Fred Adlmüller

Wilhelm Alfred "Fred" Adlmüller (born March 16, 1909 in Nuremberg ; † September 26, 1989 in Vienna ) was a German-Austrian fashion designer .

Life

Fred Adlmüller was the son of Burkhard Adlmüller, the owner of the Mansfelder Braustüberl in Nuremberg and the Munich hotel restaurants Römerschanze and Grünwalder Weinbauer and Elise geb. Augustine. From 1923 to 1927 he completed an apprenticeship as a chef at the Munich Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten . He then worked in his father's company until 1929. Then he came to Vienna, with the aim of gaining experience for the continuation of the home business. But he took a job in the fashion house "Ludwig Zwieback & Brüder", from where he moved as a fashion buyer to the fashion house "Stone & Blyth" first in the branch in Bad Gastein and then in Vienna in the headquarters in Palais Esterházy and in 1934 at his first Haute -Couture collection began to work. From 1936 he also worked as a costume designer on theaters in Vienna and abroad.

When the owners of the fashion house, Ignaz Sass and his wife, emigrated to London as Jews after the Anschluss , they appointed Fred Adlmüller, who was unfit for the military (due to scarlet fever and later a kidney disease) and did not have to enter, as managing director. Adlmüller was also managing director under the new owner Heribert Schindelka, who received the company through Aryanization .

Towards the end of the war he made the film equipment for the Viennese girls . After the war, Schindelka was arrested and Adlmüller was initially provisional director and then confirmed as managing director by the Sass couple, who were still in England. Through his work for Soviet officers, he was able to present the first post-war collection in autumn 1945. In 1946 he also received Austrian citizenship . In 1949 the original owners came back to Vienna. With them, Adlmüller founded the company Stone & Blyth Nachhaben - WFA Ges.mbH , which also had a branch in Munich. In 1950 Adlmüller was able to take over the company completely by paying an annuity from the Sass couple. He employed up to 70 people for production and sales.

His women's fashion, which was worn by domestic and foreign female stars and politicians' wives, among others, is described as haute couture in a feminine classic style, but he also supplied the state jackets for the Federal Presidents of the Second Republic . In the 1950s he created the Eau de Vienne perfume .

At the world exhibition in Brussels in 1958 , he received the Grand Prix for the most beautiful hostess dress. In 1973 he closed the branches in Bad Gastein and Munich.

Between 1973 and 1979 Fred Adlmüller was a full professor at the University of Applied Arts and led the master class for fashion.

After his death, his personal estate was auctioned off in the Dorotheum on June 20, 1990 for the benefit of the Order of Malta , the model dresses were auctioned on January 17, 1991. He was buried in a grave of honor in the Vienna Central Cemetery (group 33 G, number 77).

Filmography

Costumes:

• 1943: Women are not angels
• 1948: The heavenly waltz
• 1948: Fregola
• 1949: Hellish love
• 1952: I cannot marry all of them
• 1952: Illusion in minor
• 1954: This song stays with you
• 1954: you
• 1955: The landlady of the Golden Crown
• 1956: where the lark sings
• 1957: Under eighteen (German VT still underage )
• 1958: The trees are blooming again in the Prater
• 1958: Frauensee
• 1960: Confession by a sixteen year old

Costumes for the State Opera

• 1947: Orpheus in the underworld
• 1949: A thousand and one nights
• 1951: Giuditta

Awards

• 1952 - Honorary Prize of the City of Vienna
• 1969 - Gold Medal for Services to the Republic of Austria
• 1978 - Fashion Prize of the City of Munich
• 1980 - Gold Medal for Services to the State of Vienna
• 1982 - professional title Hofrat

Fred Adlmüller Scholarship Foundation

Students at the University of Applied Arts Vienna are supported by the Fred Adlmüller Scholarship , provided they are Austrian citizens and have been recognized by the Fred Adlmüller Foundation Commission as worthy of a scholarship.

literature

• Reinhard Engel: Luxury from Vienna I . Czernin Verlag, Vienna 2001, ISBN 3-7076-0121-8 .
• Elisabeth Frottier / Gerald Bast (eds.): WF Adlmüller Mode - Staging + Impulse . Springer et al., Vienna 2009, ISBN 978-3-211-89039-4 , (exhibition catalog, exhibition center of the University of Applied Arts Vienna, Heiligenkreuzerhof, March 13 to April 30, 2009).
• Herbert Schill: Fred Adlmüller. At the service of beauty. Herbert Schill tells from the life of the fashion designer . Amalthea Signum Verlag, Vienna a. a. 1990, ISBN 3-85002-302-8 .
• W. Kleindel & H. Veigl: The great book of the Austrians - 4500 representations of people in words and pictures , 1987

Web links

• Fred Adlmüller in the Internet Movie Database (English)
• Fred Adlmüller at filmportal.de
• Literature by and about Fred Adlmüller in the catalog of the German National Library
• diepresse.com: Fred Adlmüller: Wiener Schick March 13, 2009
• Wiener Zentralfriedhof, short biography
• Entry on Fred Adlmüller in the Austria Forum  (in the Austrian personal lexicon of the First and Second Republic )

Individual evidence

1. ↑ ^{a b c} U. Denk:  Adlmueller, Fred . In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 . 2nd revised edition (online only).