Glockenbachviertel

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Glockenbachviertel (3) in the Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt district
Hans-Sachs-Strasse in the Glockenbachviertel

The Glockenbachviertel is a district of Munich and belongs to the Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt district . It is considered a trendy district .

geography

The district 2.3 Glockenbach had 19,806 inhabitants on an area of ​​1 km 2 in 2009, which corresponds to a population density of 19,805.7 inhabitants per km 2 .

The former Munich district 11 ("Isarvorstadt-Glockenbachviertel"), formed in 1954, extends in the northeast from Fraunhoferstrasse along the Isar in the southeast to the Braunau railway bridge or Lagerhausstrasse in the southwest. In the northwest, Thalkirchner Strasse at the Alten Südfriedhof forms the border with Ludwigvorstadt. The border continues over part of Pestalozzistraße and Müllerstraße in the northeast back to Fraunhoferstraße. The Dreimühlenviertel in the south was also included in the city district .

The Gärtnerplatzviertel , which is separated by Fraunhoferstraße, is often used synonymously with Glockenbachviertel as the name for the entire area of ​​both quarters, as both have a similar structure.

The Glockenbachviertel was previously characterized by numerous Munich city streams . Today only the Westermühlbach flows above ground . The eponymous Glockenbach as well as numerous other city streams such as the Pesenbach and the Mahlmühlbach flow underground today. The Glockenbach branches off from the Westermühlbach at Pestalozzistraße 35 and flows underground to Blumenstraße.

history

From the beginning to the 19th century

Outside of what was then Munich, in front of the Sendlinger Tor near the lime kiln, there was a foundry from 1476 to 1671 , where bells were also made. The stream flowing next to it was called Glockenbach, which is first documented in 1575. The former Glockenstrasse at the cemetery, which has been called Pestalozzistrasse since 1897 , also owes its name to the foundry . In the 16th century, a “Brechhaus” (plague house) was built in Baumstrasse (today No. 5-7) between two city streams. At the end of the 17th century the house was used for the Max Emanuels cloth factory in the Au . After that it was a military hospital until the opening of the new hospital on Müllerstrasse (1777). The house was demolished in 1828. In the area around Baum- und Palmstrasse, formerly located between the Isar and Pesenbach, the Pechsieder formed one of the first settlements in the Isar suburb. The area is still known today as "Pechwinkel". A plague cemetery had existed since 1563, from which the Südfriedhof emerged, which was temporarily the only cemetery used by Munich and in which numerous famous personalities rest. In 1944 the burials were stopped there and after the war the cemetery was converted into a park, in which numerous gravestones have been preserved despite severe war damage.

In the past, the district was crossed by many urban streams derived from the Isar , which supplied various commercial enterprises as power or water dispensers or as a means of transport, as a few names still recall. The Westermühlbach, which is still partially visible today, got its name from Westamill (today Holzstrasse 28), which was built by the Heiliggeistspital in 1345 . Rafts could sail over it as far as the Oberen Lände (today the Am Glockenbach green area ). To take care of the animals that were used to transport the wood, a horse trough was built on the Westermühlbach, which later became a canal watch. The access to the Bachauskehr is still next to the house. The Westermühlbach fed itself on Dreimühlenstraße from the Großer Stadtbach, today a continuation of the Werkkanal that runs alongside the Isar, and fed the inner city brooks itself. When most of the streams were drained and filled in from 1966, it was retained as a cooling water inflow for the Müllerstrasse thermal power station. It partly flows above ground (and is often incorrectly referred to there as the Glockenbach); in Pestalozzistraße it branches off into the underground Glockenbach. The actual continuation to the Lazarettbach was drained like the other streams.

Urbanization and industrialization in the 19th and 20th centuries

In 1819 the entire Isarvorstadt had only 2,300 inhabitants and comprised 183 houses and 19 state or municipal buildings. The people living here were mainly millers, gardeners, milkmen, washer-men, bleachers, carpenters, raft masters, horse traders and day laborers in often poor dwellings. The town's Pechsieder lived in today's Palmstrasse (then Pechwinkel). For a long time, however, the dangers of the water, especially floods and floods, prevented systematic overbuilding of the area near the Isar. After Munich had become the capital of a kingdom in 1806, it was expanded according to a general plan from 1810.

One started with the Ludwigvorstadt. After its opening in the 1870s, workers' quarters were built in the Schlachthofviertel. Industrial companies settled in the Dreimühlenviertel. The earliest settled parts of the city district, the Pechwinkel and the area around the raft land in today's Glockenbachviertel, were developed late in terms of urban development.

In 1826, the Capuchin Monastery of St. Anton was re-established in the south of the Glockenbachviertel , after a monastery of the same name, which existed from 1600 to 1802 on today's Lenbachplatz in the old town, was dissolved and demolished in the course of secularization. After extensions, the monastery reached its present size in 1895.

The Colosseum Theater, built by Franz Kil, opened in Ickstattstrasse in 1874 . It existed over two world wars and offered an entertainment program tailored to the respective zeitgeist with variety, artistry, "comedy", as one would say today, legendary carnival balls and also boxing and wrestling matches. In 1961 it was demolished and a functional building was built at this point.

The Electrotechnical Factory Alois Zettler was established on the Westermühle site at Holzstrasse 28-30 in 1877. In the early days of electricity, it produced vacuum cleaners, radiators and call systems using water power. When the furniture manufacturer Heinrich Pössenbacher and his sons stopped in 1951, Zettler bought the complex at Jahnstraße 45 and opened Plant II there, where the Tertianum is located today. The company was dissolved in 1998 and the buildings were sold.

Architectural monuments on Hans-Sachs-Straße
The Church of St. Maximilian, seen from the Reichenbach Bridge

The approximately 200-meter-long Hans-Sachs-Strasse was opened up quite late through Heinrich Lempuhl's private initiative. The neo-baroque houses built between 1897 and 1900 were planned from the outset for an upscale clientele and equipped above the standard here, for example with bathrooms. In 1981 the beautiful facades were placed under ensemble protection. In 1912 the Neues Arena cinema opened its doors in the street . Today it is one of the last small cinemas in Munich. It is now a demanding art house cinema and has received the state capital's cinema program award several times for it since 2005.

A mixed tenement and commercial district developed in the Glockenbachviertel. Numerous Jews came from Galicia and settled in the Isarvorstadt, in the “little people's quarter”. It did not become a shtetl , but Jewish community life emerged, which was particularly noticeable in the commercial sector, through the strongly represented textile and clothing industry and the kosher grocery stores. A prayer house was built in the Gärtnerplatzviertel and in the Ludwigvorstadt there was a hospital, an old people's home and a ritual bath. Because of Munich's growth, it was decided in 1883 to build a total of three new churches. And church building associations were founded. Since the then mother church Heilig Geist im Tal could no longer accept the faithful and the funds for a new building were not yet sufficient, the school barracks in Auenstrasse were converted into an emergency church in 1893 . In 1895, construction of the neo-Romanesque church of St. Maximilian began at Auenstrasse 1, on the banks of the Isar . It was inaugurated on October 6, 1901. Shortly thereafter, on March 31, 1903, St. Maximilian was raised to an independent parish and the new church was elevated to the status of a parish church, with the parish roughly encompassing the Glockenbachviertel.

Numerous brothels have also established themselves in the Isarvorstadt. In the article "Street prostitution in Munich during the foreign season" published on August 7, 1912 in the Munich news sheet, Wilhelm Craemer names Müllerstrasse as the place of prostitution. Especially from the 1920s onwards, society began to become more liberal, which gave a boost to the gay scene, especially in Berlin, but also in other major German cities. The Arndthof (Am Glockenbach 12) was a well-known trendy eatery, as was the Schwarzfischer Gasthaus (Dultstraße 2, Oberanger 16) a little north of Müllerstraße in the old town .

National Socialism and World War II

Munich, especially Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt, played an important role in the rise of the NSDAP . At Pestalozzistraße 40/42, the “workers' castle”, the General German Trade Union Confederation had its headquarters and also some social democratic institutions. That is why there were repeated threats during the National Socialists' “ fighting time ”. After the “ seizure of power ”, the building was occupied and served as a prison for opponents of National Socialism for a few weeks. Today the DGB building is at Schwanthalerstraße 64. The situation changed very quickly for other institutions and people too. Jews fled, were harassed, crammed into collective shelters, locked up in concentration camps and murdered. After the outrage over Ernst Röhm's homosexuality after his murder on June 30, 1934, the Bavarian police carried out on 20/21. In October 1934 a raid on homosexuals brought many of them into "protective custody" in the Dachau concentration camp.

Reconstruction and structural change in the post-war period

The Glockenbachviertel also suffered from the consequences of the Second World War . St. Maximilian, for example, was hit several times in air raids between September 1943 and November 1944 and was badly damaged in the process. From Easter 1946, services could again be celebrated in an emergency church set up in the right aisle. From 1949 the church was rebuilt, which was largely completed in 1953 with the consecration of the high altar. 1954–1955 the old south cemetery was redesigned according to plans by Hans Döllgast and is now a listed building. In 1947 district committees were set up and numbers were assigned. Since this seemed too anonymous, additional names were introduced. On February 2, 1954, what was then district 11 was named Isarvorstadt-Glockenbachviertel .

Over time, the structure changed due to the demolition of old company buildings that had shaped the district, such as Hurth and Zettler. They have often been replaced by condominium houses. The district changed from a mixed residential and commercial district to a residential area with service companies. Since the 1980s, numerous artists, star hairdressers and other freelancers have also moved into the cheap old apartments in a central location. Numerous pubs and bars also attracted audiences from all over the city.

Development to the center of the gay movement

Same-sex traffic light couples in the Glockenbachviertel in Munich

From the 1950s, the gay scene began to gain a foothold in the area again, albeit cautiously because of the still existing tightened version of § 175 . The rigid interpretation of § 184 StGB ( dissemination of indecent writings ) and personal checks at meeting points, which could lead to an entry in a pink list up until the 1980s , suggested great caution. The gay scene also plays an important role for many lesbian women. For example, the Hotel Deutsche Eiche in the neighboring Gärtnerplatzviertel has developed into a meeting point . In the 1960s, the Glockenbachviertel was a rock'n roll and twist stronghold and you could move from one pub to another. Also in the 1960s, an entrepreneur wanted to open a gay bar in Schwabing. The police did not allow this there and advised him to open the bar in the Glockenbachviertel, as it would be tolerated there. In 1967, the Ochsengarten, Germany's first leather bar, opened at Müllerstrasse 47 . The nostalgic Mylord plush bar has been around since 1964, but it was only located on Sternstrasse in Lehel and only moved to the Glockenbachviertel after a few years.

After the total ban on male same-sex contacts was lifted through the amendment of § 175, more initiatives and groups began to form, especially from 1971. In 1974 the Homosexual Action Munich (HAM) dissolved and the Homosexual Action Community (HAG) was created . The student HAG founded the Teestube-Kommunikation-Centrum-Homosexualität (Teestube-KCH) association . A provisional tea room existed since June 1974. In the following time there was a rapprochement between the HAG and the Association for Sexual Equal Rights (VSG), which was also founded in 1974, and together they opened the final tea room in 1975 at Glockenbach 10 . This existed until the end of the 1970s. From 1978 the VSG also had its own club bar in nearby Haidhausen , which partially replaced the tea room. In 1985 this had to be given up and they moved to Dachauer Straße , far away from the gay scene, which was one of the reasons for the club to fall asleep.

The self-help center Munich (SHZ) was opened in 1985 at Auenstrasse 31. It is home to a wide variety of groups and is now located at Westendstrasse 68.

Since fewer and fewer people were politically involved in the gay movement because of the ongoing liberalization, this only changed again with the emergence of AIDS and, in Munich, above all through the restrictive anti-AIDS policy of Peter Gauweiler from the end of 1982. In January 1984, a joint initiative of VSG, MLC ( Münchner Löwen Club eV ) and HuK ( homosexuals and church ) founded the Munich Aids Aid . At the end of 1985 she moved into premises at Müllerstraße 44a.

In 1986 various associations merged and founded the Association for Gay Culture and Communication Center (SchwuKK) , which was entered in the register of associations on September 4, 1986. Heimstatt was initially the self-help center, but soon there were the first bar evenings on Fridays in Café Szenerand in Auenstrasse. For a time, non-participating associations saw the SchwuKK as competition. In 1988 Aids-Hilfe relocated and with the subsidies approved by the city, the SUB, information shop for gay men , was opened in their premises at Müllerstrasse 44a . The association was renamed Sub - Schwulen Kommunikation- und Kulturzentrum München eV . It is open daily, offers advice, information, a library, an archive and is a home or starting point for various groups of all ages and interests. Since then, it has offered an unprecedented program in the Munich scene and a small alternative to the commercial local scene. In 1991 it was included in the city's regular funding. At that time, the Hans Sachs Street Festival took place for the first time on the occasion of its five-year existence.

Since 1995 there has been the advice, information and communication office LeTRa ("Lesbian Dream"), which is run by the non-profit association Lesbentelefon eV , just outside the district in Angerstrasse . The municipal coordination office for same-sex lifestyles is also located at the corner of Angertorstrasse and Müllerstrasse . The square on the corner of Holzstrasse and Am Glockenbach was named in 1998 after Karl Heinrich Ulrichs (1825–1895), the pioneer of the homosexual movement in Germany, who as early as 1867 called for love between men to be exempt from punishment at the Juristentag in Munich. The integration maypole designed by Michael Borio and Robert C. Rore has also been erected on Karl-Heinrich-Ulrichs-Platz since 2007 . Since June 2007 there has been a separate LesBiSchwules and trans * youth center in the vicinity, one street outside the Gärtnerplatzviertel at Blumenstrasse 11, run by the youth organization diversity Munich.

1990s until today

In 1992 the three Isarvorstadt districts (Glockenbachviertel, Schlachthofviertel and Deutsches Museum) and Ludwigvorstadt were merged to form district 2, Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt .

In the 1990s, the originally simple bourgeois quarter, the structure of which suffered badly in the Second World War, developed through gentrification into one of the most sought-after residential and nightlife areas in Munich with correspondingly higher rents. The district is close to the city center and today has a fairly high and well-kept stock of old buildings and is therefore still one of the most attractive residential areas in the city and is by far the most expensive trendy district in Germany. Living here is no longer affordable for many people, which means that the alternative scene is moving more and more to the Westend and the gay scene is hardly represented anymore, as many restaurants have been closed.

"The Seven" high-rise with expensive apartments

The Glockenbachviertel is the most densely populated residential area in Munich with now high rent levels. Together with the Gärtnerplatzviertel, this is where most of the bars and restaurants are located, and the area is increasingly establishing itself as the center of nightlife. A lively district culture has established itself in street festivals, art events and also many galleries and handicraft shops, which is largely supported by the gay and lesbian movement. The Munich gay and lesbian scene is mainly located around Müllerstrasse. Very few children live in the inner city districts of Altstadt-Lehel, Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt and Maxvorstadt. But especially in the Glockenbachviertel / Gärtnerplatzviertel area, the birth rate has skyrocketed in recent years, which was first noted in the media in 2005 as a “baby boom”. Due to the large number of young couples who feel comfortable there, in 2004 there were, for example, 12.15 births per 1000 inhabitants.

The quarter was the scene of the crime scene episode Das Glockenbachgeheimnis (1999). The thrillers of the author Martin Arz are often set in the Glockenbachviertel. A spectacular real estate project called The Seven was built in the machine tower of the former thermal power station, of which only the chimneys have been preserved.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. BEZ1: City districts compact
  2. E2: residents, main residence according to 5 age groups, population density, average age, proportion of foreigners
  3. Cinema program prices. In: muenchen.de. Portal München Betriebs-GmbH & Co. KG, accessed on February 3, 2020 .
  4. Karin Zick: Interview with Uwe Hagenberg, board member of Sub eV, Glockenbach-Kurier, July 17, 2007 ( Memento from August 18, 2013 in the web archive archive.today )
  5. Lisa Sonnabend: My Lord - Marietta and the Butterflies , sueddeutsche.de, July 3, 2008
  6. Maypole - Coming Out of a maypole ( Memento from April 22, 2009 in the Internet Archive ), br-online.de, April 30, 2007
  7. ^ Children in Munich - The Problematics , sueddeutsche.de, February 10, 2005
  8. Child-friendliness - families - a rare species in Munich , sueddeutsche.de, February 10, 2005

Coordinates: 48 ° 8 '  N , 11 ° 34'  E