Gran Paradiso from the northwest with the northwest face and Laveciau glacier
|location||Aosta Valley , Italy|
|Dominance||44.6 km → Grandes Jorasses|
|Notch height||1879 m ↓ near Little Saint Bernard|
|First ascent||September 4, 1860 by Michel-Clément Payot , Jean Tairraz , John Jeremy Cowell , W. Dundas|
|Normal way||High tour over glacier, short climbing point at the summit - south-west ascent|
The Gran Paradiso (ital.) Or Grand Paradis (French) is with a height of mountain in the Graian Alps and at the same time the highest mountain base is entirely on Italian soil. It is located in the Gran Paradiso National Park , which emerged from a royal hunting reserve created in 1856 to protect the Alpine ibex . This national park is the oldest in Italy and the second oldest in the Alps .the highest
The Gran Paradiso mountain range rises in north-west Italy and consists mainly of gneiss . It is clearly separated from the main Alpine ridge, which runs further north over the Valais Alps and bends south on Mont Blanc , which makes it a worthwhile panoramic mountain. The summit panorama ranges from Monviso over the Écrins , the Savoy Alps with Mont Blanc to the Valais Alps with Grand Combin , Matterhorn and Monte Rosa . The Paradiso-Stock is best accessible from the north from the Aosta Valley via the Valsavarenche Valley or via the Cogne Valley and the Valnontey . To the southeast, the foothills merge relatively quickly into the Piedmont plain . Characteristic for the massif are deep valley cuts with steep rock slopes, pointed mountain peaks and narrow ridges . It is partly covered with mighty glaciers .
The Gran Paradiso is considered to be one of the easiest four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps to climb . Its first ascent was on September 4, 1860 by JJ Cowell, W. Dundas, M. Payot and J. Tairraz. Their route over the crevasse-poor Gran Paradiso glacier is now the normal route from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II . Most climbers do not end up on the 4,061 m high main summit, but rather the neighboring, almost equally high rock summit, which is crowned with a statue of the Madonna . On the last ten exposed meters over to the Madonna ( difficulty UIAA II ) there are often tricky scenes due to the comparatively large crowd in the encounter traffic.
Another, hardly more difficult and often used route leads from the Chabod refuge over the Laveciau glacier to the so-called donkey back , where it joins the normal route that comes before Vittorio-Emanuele II refuge. The routes from the east side to the summit are much more demanding than the normal routes on the west side. The 600 meter high north-west face offers a classic ice rise (up to 55 °). It was climbed by Bertolone for the first time in 1958, Kurt Diemberger straightened the route in the exit.
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .