Castello di Fénis

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Castello di Fénis
Castello di Fénis

Castello di Fénis

Alternative name (s): Château de Fénis
Creation time : 14th Century
Castle type : Niederungsburg
Conservation status: restored
Construction: Quarry stone
Place: Fénis
Geographical location 45 ° 44 '13 "  N , 7 ° 29' 20.3"  E Coordinates: 45 ° 44 '13 "  N , 7 ° 29' 20.3"  E
Height: 531  m
Castello di Fénis (Aosta Valley)
Castello di Fénis

The Castello di Fénis is a castle in the village of Fénis in the Aosta Valley . The castle, one of the best preserved from the Italian Middle Ages , is one of the most famous in the valley. It is one of the main tourist attractions of the valley because of its impressive architecture with a double wall ring , which includes many towers in addition to the main building.

Unlike other castles in the region, such as Castello di Verrès or Castle Ussel , which were built on the peaks of rocky outcroppings so that they could be better defended, the Castello di Fénis is located in a place that has no natural defensive features. This suggests that it was primarily the prestigious administrative seat of the Challant-Fénis family and that the double ring of walls was also used mainly for boastful purposes to frighten and astonish the population.

history

Origins

The location of the castle on the top of a hill surrounded by meadows suggests that this might once have been the site of a Roman villa , but, unlike the Castello di Issogne , where this hypothesis of wall remains from Roman times are in the castle's cellar were found, this theory could not be confirmed in Fénis.

Castello di Fénis in winter

The castle was first mentioned in a document in 1242, in which a "Castrum Fenitii" was identified as the property of the Vice Count of Aosta, Gotofredo di Challant , and his two brothers. At that time the mansion probably only consisted of the pigeon house on the south side and the tower with a square floor plan, a residential tower in the middle and a single wall ring.

Aimone and Bonifacio

Entrance to the castle. Left the oldest tower and right the round pigeon tower
The Castello di Fénis, the most famous castle in the Aosta Valley

Most of the construction that gave the castle its current appearance took place between approximately 1320 and 1420. Aimone di Challant inherited the fiefdom and the castle in 1337 from his grandfather Ebalo Magno di Challant and in 1340 he started work on a pentagonal residential building in the middle, presumably integrating existing buildings there. He also had the outer ring of the wall built.

Compared to the current appearance of the castle, the medieval tower was still missing in the times of Aimone and the interior of the castle was designed completely different. The inner courtyard in the middle was much larger and the stone stairs, flanked to the north and south by two long buildings that end at the western wall, were not yet in place. In addition, the entire upper floor of the building must have been missing.

Further construction work was commissioned by Bonifacio I di Challant , son of Aimone , who inherited the castle from his father in 1387. After having held the position of fortress inspector at the Savoy court for two years , he commissioned further, extensive construction work on the castle in order to adapt it to the new standard of court life. In the course of this construction campaign, the floor levels of the middle building were realigned and a new floor was added, which arose from the old attic. In addition, a new building with wooden balconies on two levels to the west of the central building and the large, semicircular stone staircase were built so that the inner courtyard took on its present form.

Years of decay

West side of the castle

With the death of Bonifacio I in 1426, a period of economic decline began for the Challant-Fénis family, which was accompanied by the cessation of construction work on the castle. His successor, Bonifacio II , limited himself to commissioning the painter Giacomo da Ivrea for the frescoes on the west side of the inner courtyard , but did not make any significant changes to the structure of the castle. After him, practically no building projects were carried out for about 250 years; the only changes involved some frescoes in the courtyard and in one of the southern rooms, which were made in the 17th century.

In 1705, with the death of Antonio Gaspare Felice Challant-Fénis , the castle fell to his cousin Giorgio Francesco di Challant-Châtillon , who in 1716 had to sell it to Count Baldassare Saluzzo di Paesana for 90,000 lire to pay off his enormous debts.

After that, a period of decline and change of ownership really began for the castle. It remained in the possession of the Saluzzos di Paesana until 1798 and was then sold to Pietro Gaspare Ansermin , whose family kept it until 1863 and then sold it to Michele Baldassare Rosset from Quart . In the meantime the building has been abandoned and its furniture has been removed; it was leased and served as a barn and cattle shed.

Renovation in the 19th century and present

The courtyard of the castle on a 19th century engraving by Celestino Turletti

On September 3, 1895, Giuseppe Rosset , Italian consular clerk in Odessa and the son of Michele Baldassare , gave the castle to the Kingdom of Italy for 15,000 lire , represented by Alfredo d'Andrade , who had been negotiating its purchase for years. D'Andrade had used the Castello di Fénis a few years earlier as a model for the courtyard of the Borgo Medievale di Torino .

As early as 1898, D'Andrade , a follower of the principles of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc , started a first work campaign on the castle, which was continued until 1920 under the leadership of D'Andrade and Cesare Bertea and Di Segle . The aim of this campaign, also because of the limited funds available, was above all to contain the ruin of the castle by securing the endangered walls, re-covering some roofs, restoring the floors and windows and building a new access road on the east side.

A second restoration campaign took place from 1935 under the direction of the then national education minister Cesare Maria de Vecchi and the architect Vittorio Mesturino . The latter wanted to emphasize the medieval appearance of the castle and thereby partly destroyed the lightness of the original structure. During this work campaign, it was also decided to set up a Museo dell'Ammobiliamento Valdostano (Museum of Furniture of the Aosta Valley) in the castle, equipping the rooms, which were then without original furniture, with a range of furniture that was bought on the antique market although not all really came from the Aosta Valley.

The castle, which was declared a national monument in 1896 , today belongs to the regional administration of the Aosta Valley and can be visited in guided tours.

description

Floor plan of the Castello di Fénis. You can see the double ring of walls with the entrance from the south, the courtyard (1), the armory (2) and the dining room (3)

Giuseppe Giacosa describes the Castello di Fénis in his book I Castelli Valdostani as follows:

“From the outside it shows a facade of towers that overlap, some square and stocky, others round, finely designed, completely crenellated, defensive, full of overhangs in every respect, which seem to oppose oppression and violence Challenge hikers and yell at them: Get out who jagged the sky with bizarre profiles! Inside is a cloister for collection, calm, very shady, sober and correct in unusual shapes and rich colors. When seen from a distance, she shows irritable boast; for those who enter it breathe the calm of the strong. "

The castle consists of a central, pentagonal structure, presumably due to the need to integrate earlier buildings and to follow the irregular terrain structure, surrounded by a double crenellated wall ring, along which various towers sit, which are connected by a battlement . The largest towers in the south and west are provided with loopholes for arrows and above with supporting brackets . The wall turns north towards the main road which crossed the valley and was therefore the most vulnerable to attack; it is occupied by four round towers , which became five as a result of the restorations in the 1930s. A gate on the south side leads past one of the oldest towers of the castle into the interior of the building. This entrance was created during the restoration work in the 1930s, while the original entrance was probably near the square tower on the west side.

As soon as you have passed the wall ring, you find yourself in a closed courtyard that surrounds the buildings in the middle. On the northeast side of this courtyard is a rectangular building that was once used as a stable, while the entrance to the central residential building is opposite the turret in the middle of the east side. The building in the middle surrounds a rectangular courtyard and has three floors and a basement where the kitchens and prisons are located. The ground floor served the garrison of the castle and the service personnel: In particular, the guard department, the kitchen and a dining room were located there. The first floor was reserved for the lords of the castle and housed a kitchen, the lords' bedrooms, the tribunal and the chapel. Finally, the second floor was reserved for the servants and guests of the castle. The castle could accommodate a total of around 60 people, including the lord's family, possible guests, the garrison and the service staff.

When walking through the room within the first ring of the wall, one notices some masks with an apotropaic function on top of the stone walls .

The courtyard

Fresco of St. George , the dragon slayer , in the courtyard
Detail of one of the scrolls with moral maxims on the walls of the balcony

The center of the central residential building is the small, rectangular inner courtyard, which Bonifacio I had created between the end of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th century. In the middle of this courtyard there is a characteristic stone staircase in a semicircle shape, below the upper end of which there is a fresco depicting Saint George killing the dragon. It was created around 1415 and is attributed to the workshop of Giacomo Jaquerio . The theme of Saint George with the dragon was widespread in the Aosta Valley at that time, as it was seen as the ideal of the knight. The monogram “BMS” on the fresco is also remarkable, interpreted as the initials of the client, “Bonifacio Marexallus Sabaudiae”.

The inner courtyard, the walls of which are completely covered with decorative frescoes in the late Gothic style , is surrounded on three sides by a double wooden balcony at the level of the two upper floors. Winding along the walls of this balcony is the depiction of a series of mutually distinct figures holding scrolls on which proverbs and moral maxims are written in Old French . In the past, each of the wise men was marked with the name of the person depicted, but the majority of these names are now illegible. Among these sages, one is shown in Arab clothing, which probably indicates that the Challants were involved in a crusade .

Some of the proverbs and moral maxims are:

"Il n'est pas sire de son pais / qui de ses homes est hais / bon doit estre sire sclamés / qui de ses freres est amés." (Eng .: It is not the master of his country / who is hated by his subjects / but he must be called Lord / who is loved by his own brothers.)

"Se us homs avoit a goeverner / le ciel la terre et la mer / et tous hommes que Dieu a fais / ni aroit riens cil navait paix." (German: If a man had under him / heaven, earth and that Meer / and all the men whom God created / he would have nothing if she did not have peace.)

The courtyard of the castle of Borgio Medievale di Torino , a copy of the courtyard of the Castello di Fénis

In one corner of the courtyard there is also some kind of prophecy:

"Maneat domus donec formica aequot bibat et lenta testudo totum perambulet orbem." (German: This house will remain until the ant has drunk the sea and the slow turtle has circled the earth.)

On one of the walls of the castle there was also found a poem in Old French attributed to Bonifacio I , written on the occasion of the marriage of his daughter Bona to the Lord of Uriage , Jean Allamant , and of her subsequent departure. It is considered to be one of the oldest examples of writing in the French spoken in this area in the Middle Ages:

"Pauvre oyseillon qui de chez moi / t'envoles si loin de la Doyre / en ton cuer conserve memoyre / de qui prie et pleure pout toi. / BC xx nov. MCCCCII. ”(Eng .: Poor sparrow that flies out of my house / so far from the Dora / keep the memory in your heart / of those who pray and weep for you. / BC November 20, 1402.)

The narrow sides of the courtyard, in front of the fresco of St. George, 15th Century were the painter in the second half Giacomo da Ivrea on behalf of Bonifacio II. , The son of Bonifacio I. , decorated and represent the Holy Hubertus , Bernhard , a holy bishop (perhaps Theodor von Sitten ), Apollonia and Ambrosius , an Annunciation of the Lord and botanical motifs. Below this is a monumental Christophorus , whose attribution is difficult due to the extensive restoration work. Since Christophorus is the patron saint of travelers, his presence near the exit from the castle should perhaps be a good omen for the journey of those who leave the castle.

The courtyard of the Castello di Fénis served Alfredo d'Andrade as a model for the castle of the Borgo Medievale di Torino , which was built for the Esposizione Generale Italiana Artistica e Industriale (German: General Italian Art and Industry Exhibition) in 1884. The inner courtyard of the medieval castle shows exact copies of the semicircular staircase, the wooden balconies and the frescoes of the holy dragon slayer George and the other saints.

ground floor

From the inner courtyard one enters a large, rectangular room which forms a large part of the north side of the ground floor. This room, called “Grande Salle basse” in an inventory list from 1551, is now called the armory because there is a rack for skewers . The room also housed a trap for those sentenced to death, which consisted of a fountain whose walls were covered with sharpened blades in the round tower in the northwest corner. Today a model of the castle and a large stone fireplace on the back wall are housed in the room. The wooden ceilings of this like most of the other rooms were restored in the course of the restoration work in the 20th century, while the stone chimneys were part of the castle's original furnishings.

From the armory you get into the dining room, so named as a result of the preparation as a museum in 1936, whereas the inventory list from 1551 mentions “Chambre basse”. In this room there are some tables and chairs from the 16th to 17th centuries. Century.

Adjacent to the dining room is a room that must have been the main kitchen of the castle, which you can see from the monumental fireplace, where not only food was cooked, but which was also used to heat the rooms on the upper floors. It is equipped with different types of wooden sideboards.

The well of the cistern for the rainwater, the woodshed and other service rooms are located on the south side of the ground floor . There is currently a farm wagon and a number of chests and boxes there.

1st floor

Floor plan of the first floor of the castle. Note the “Chambre des tolles” (5) and its cupboard (4), the court room (6), the upper kitchen (7), the “Chambre blanche” (8) and the chapel (9).

The first floor, the most elegant and least cold floor of the castle, was reserved for the lords of the castle. There you will find their private rooms, the parade rooms and the chapel . On the north side, above the kitchen on the ground floor, there is a room in which a large fireplace and a sink suggest a second kitchen; it is currently furnished in late Gothic style with a number of chairs, armchairs and a few planks from the 19th century.

Next to the kitchen is a room that is considered the lord's bedroom and is named "Chambre blanche" in the inventory list from 1551. On the wall that separates it from the kitchen is a large stone fireplace with a picture of the Challant coat of arms . The room contains a series of inlaid containers and chests and a bed with a canopy and twisted columns, a reproduction of a Tuscan model from the end of the 16th century.

In the middle of the south side is a room that is referred to in the inventory list from 1551 as the “Chambre des tolles”. It is furnished with double-sided boxes that have a decorative facade on the front. The adjoining "Cabinet de la chambre des tolles" houses a bed and a large box from the 16th century, as well as a chest from the 19th century, which comes from the collection of the industrialist Ricardo Gualino . Giustino Boson calls these two rooms “Sala da pranzo” (German: dining room) and “Camera della signora” (German: women's bedroom). A clear identification of the earlier use of these rooms is difficult because almost all of the original furniture has been lost over time and several rooms have changed their functions over the centuries.

In the south-west corner of the first floor there is a room that was called “Poelle”, or “heated room” and is now called “Tribunal”. The current name goes back to a fresco above the fireplace that depicts the four cardinal virtues , that is, bravery , prudence , temperance and, finally, justice , which stands above others. The coat of arms of Emanuel Philibert I or of Karl Emanuel I , Dukes of Savoy from 1559 to 1630, is also shown there. There are currently some boxes in the room that were bought in Saluzzo in the 1930s .

The chapel

Fresco of the Merciful Mother of God in the chapel

The entire north side of the first floor is taken up by a long, rectangular hall that has been identified as a chapel, one of the most impressive rooms in the castle. In the past, this hall was probably divided into two parts by a wooden grille similar to that in the Castello di Issogne . There the lattice separates the actual chapel from a representation room called the “Salle de la chapelle”. On the west side there is a large stone fireplace and the walls on the long sides and on the west side are decorated with geometric motifs. They were created during the restoration in the 20th century based on a fragment from the 16th century by Alfredo d'Andrade near the fireplace. The room is furnished with a range of furniture in the late Gothic style.

The east side of the large hall presumably housed the private chapel of the lords of the castle. The beginning of this room is marked by a beam that spans the rectangular hall. Opposite is a valuable wooden crucifix , which was recently restored to the workshop of the Master of the Madonna of Oropa , from which a number of sacred sculptures for churches in the Aosta Valley were created at the end of the 13th century and in the first years of the 14th century.

In contrast to the geometric decorations in the rest of the room, the side walls of the chapel are completely painted with frescoes of saints and apostles , arranged in two rows one above the other. The rear wall is divided into two parts by a large window, on the sides of which there is a scene of the crucifixion on the right and a depiction of the Merciful Mother of God on the left.

At the feet of the Madonna, protected by her cloak, there are two groups of believers, divided into lay (on the right) and clergy (on the left). Below you can see a number of contemporary people, such as B. the Pope and the Emperor , who as leaders of the clergy and the laity stand directly on both sides of the Virgin, and several members of the Challant family , such as B. the commissioner of the works of art, Bonifacio I (in the group of lay people in red clothes), his brother, Amadeo di Challant-Aymavilles , and his young wife Luisa di Miolans .

Like most of the frescoes in the inner courtyard, the frescoes in the chapel were created in the late Gothic style in the first decades of the 15th century and are attributed to the school of the Piedmontese master Giacomo Jaquerio . It is not known whether Giacomo Jaquerio himself worked on these works, but it seems certain that his models were used for them.

The recent restoration work on the frescoes in the chapel has revealed some details that indicate a certain urgency in the completion of the works, such as the traces of a kneeling figure in armor, which was never completed, in the fresco of the crucifixion scene.

2nd floor and roof

The second floor of the castle, which cannot be visited on the guided tours, could be reached via a spiral staircase. It served as accommodation for the servants and soldiers and accommodated sleeping chambers for the guests and attics. From the second floor you could get to the roof via the tower on the west side, on which there was a battlement.

The roof with stone shingles is designed as a gable roof ; the inner part leads the water to the central courtyard below, where it collects in the cistern.

Others

Today the Castello di Fénis is one of the main tourist attractions of the Aosta Valley and has more than 80,000 visitors every year.

In 1985 the exterior scenes of the film Fraccia contro Dracula by Neri Parenti were filmed at the castle . In 2006 the castle was used as a set for some scenes in the Italian television series La Freccia Nera .

In 1976 the Poste Italiane dedicated a stamp worth 150 lire to the castle as part of the fourth edition of the “Turistica” series.

In 2013 the Italian mint dedicated a coin from the “Italia delle arti” series with a face value of 10 euros and a polished plate version to her . The obverse shows the castle and the reverse the fresco of St. George.

Individual references and comments

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  2. a b c Il castello di Fénis . Comune di Courmayeur (Montblanc). Retrieved May 18, 2020.
  3. ^ A b Sonia Furlan: La storia del castello di Issogne . Pro Loco di Issogne. Archived from the original on January 26, 2012. Retrieved May 18, 2020.
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  5. La storia del castello di Fénis: Dalle origini al XIV secolo . Regione Autonoma Valle d'Aosta. Retrieved May 18, 2020.
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  7. Ebalo Magno di Challant died in 1323 and had appointed his four younger sons and two grandchildren Ebalo II and Aimone , sons of his firstborn, who had died a few years earlier, as heirs. This led to a family dispute that could not be settled until 1337, when the sons of Ebalo Magno Aimone conceded the fiefdom of Fénis and Ebalo II the fiefs of Ussel and Saint-Marcel.
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  16. The process of the allocation of the inheritance of Renato di Challant , which dragged on for more than a century, also contributed to the ruin of the family . When he died in 1565 without male descendants, he left his property to his daughter, Isabella and her husband Giovanni Frederico Mandruzzo . So he violated the principles of the Lex Salica , which did not allow inheritance in the female line, and Isabella's cousins filed a lawsuit against her and subsequently against her descendants. The process did not come to an end until 1696, when the Del Carrettos of Balestrina , heirs of Isabella and Giovanni Frederico Mandruzzo , the title of Count of Challant and the estates of Renato di Challant to Francesco Gerolamo di Challant-Châtillon , father of Giorgio Francesco di Challant-Châtillon , who had now incurred high debts due to the centuries-old court costs.
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  19. André Zanotto: Castelli valdostani . Musumeci, Quart 2002. ISBN 88-7032-049-9 . P. 26.
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  27. André Zanotto: Castelli valdostani . Musumeci, Quart 2002. ISBN 88-7032-049-9 . P. 30.
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  36. Bonifacio I di Challant actually held the position of "Marshal of Savoy" at the Savoy court.
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  42. In his book, André Zanotto describes the inscription as follows: Maneat domus donec formica marinos ebibat - et totum lenta testudo perambulet orbem .
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swell

  • Giuseppe Giacosa: I Castelli Valdostani . LF Cogliati, 1903.
  • Giulio Brocherel: Castelli Valdostani . Augusta Praetoria, 1930.
  • Giustino Boson: Dipinti e steps in versi del castello di Fenis . Aosta - Rivista della Provincia, 1930.
  • Giustino Boson: Il castello di Fenis . Istituto geografico De Agostini, 1958.
  • Enrico D. Bona, Paola Costa Calcagno: Castelli della Valle d'Aosta . Istituto geografico De Agostini series Görlich, 1979.
  • André Zanotto: Il castello di Fenis . Musumeci, Quart 1979. ISBN 88-7032-006-5 .
  • Tersilla Gatto Chanu, Augusta Vittoria Cerutti: Guida insolita ai misteri, ai segreti, all legends e alle curiosità della Valle d'Aosta . Newton & Compton, 2001. ISBN 88-8289-564-5 .
  • André Zanotto: Castelli valdostani . Musumeci, Quart 2002. ISBN 88-7032-049-9 .
  • Francesco Corni: Segni di pietra. Torri, castelli, manner e residenze della Valle d'Aosta . Associazione Forte di Bard, 2008. ISBN 88-87677-33-6 .
  • Mauro Minola, Beppe Ronco: Valle d'Aosta. Castelli e fortificazioni . Macchione, Varese 2002. ISBN 88-8340-116-6 . Pp. 32-34.
  • Carlo Nigra: Torri e castelli e case forti del Piemonte dal 1000 al secolo XVI. La Valle d'Aosta . Musumeci, Quart 1974. pp. 70-76.

Web links

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