Ellmauer stop

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Ellmauer stop
Ellmauer stop from the south

Ellmauer stop from the south

height 2344  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Kaiser Mountains
Dominance 23.1 km →  Rothörndl
Notch height 1551 m ↓  Ellmauer saddle
Coordinates 47 ° 33 '42 "  N , 12 ° 18' 8"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 33 '42 "  N , 12 ° 18' 8"  E
Ellmauer Halt (Kaiser Mountains)
Ellmauer stop
rock Wetterstein lime
Age of the rock Upper upper anisium - Lower Carnium
First ascent June 29, 1869 by Karl Hofmann , guided by Johann Schlechter (tourist)
Normal way Gamsängersteig ( A / B, one point C and I )
Kleine Halt, Gamshalt and Ellmauer Halt (from left) from the south of the Treffauer

Kleine Halt , Gamshalt and Ellmauer Halt (from left) from the south of the Treffauer

Ellmauer Halt, Gamshalt and Kleine Halt (from left) from the east, in the front left the Kopftörlgrat, seen from the Vorderen Karlspitze

Ellmauer Halt, Gamshalt and Kleine Halt (from left) from the east, in the front left the Kopftörlgrat , seen from the Vorderen Karlspitze

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Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1
Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD2

The Ellmauer Halt is at 2344  m above sea level. A. the highest peak of the Wilder Kaiser massif and the entire Kaisergebirge ( Northern Limestone Alps ) in Tyrol .

location

The summit is part of the Central Kaiser mountain range. To the north, the Gamshalt and the Kleine Halt join as further peaks of the Haltsock . In front of the summit in the east is the Kapuzenturm, which appears from the south as a distinctive, isolated rock needle. It is part of the east ridge (Kopftörlgrat), which stretches over the Kopftörl to the east side of the Hintere Karlspitze . The Kaiserkopf connects to the south and is separated from the Ellmauer Halt by the Rote-Rinn-Scharte . The Treffauer is located in the southwest, beyond the deeply incised Upper Scharlinger Boden . The summit belongs to the municipality of Ellmau .

Tourist development

The Ellmauer Halt was climbed by local hunters and farmers as early as the 19th century, among them Stephan Unterrainer (Hautzensteffel), Johann Schlechter (Mallhansl) and Sebastian Tscholl (Hornpacher). In the course of triangulation , the summit in 1845 was most likely measured at 7,330 Viennese feet ( 2317  m ). The first known tourist to reach the summit of the Ellmauer Halt was the Munich student Karl Hofmann , who was led from the Wochenbrunner Alm over the Rote-Rinn-Scharte to the summit by Johann Schlechter on June 29, 1869.

The Munich master stonemason and city councilor Karl Babenstuber initiated the erection of the first summit cross on the Ellmauer Halt on June 30, 1883. He also played a key role in the construction of a small refuge on the cramped summit, which was inaugurated on July 26, 1894. The newly built Babenstuber hut, later named after him, has been located on a slightly lower location since 1983.

Climbs

The base for climbing tours on this mountain is the 1620  m high Gruttenhütte on the southern flank. Also to be mentioned is the uncultivated, tiny Babenstuberhütte directly below the summit. This shelter with emergency accommodation has been on the Ellmauer Halt since 1891, but is not storm-proof. In any case, the summit should only be climbed by mountaineers with surefootedness, a head for heights and climbing agility. Due to the large amount of loose scree and the popularity of the Ellmauer Halt, there is a high risk of falling rocks, especially on the normal route, the Gamsängersteig. A helmet is therefore important and a via ferrata set is recommended.

Two famous via ferratas lead to the summit :

  • The Gamsängersteig from the Gruttenhütte is the moderately difficult normal route (difficulty A / B and I , one point C). The key points are the 74 brackets on the Jägerwand as well as the rock step below the so-called Maximilianstrasse (variant on the left through "gorge" with overhanging ladder, variant on the right via an inclined plate with iron brackets). It is very well secured, but countless mountaineers use it on beautiful summer days, so there is a high risk of falling rocks. 2.5 hours ascent from Gruttenhütte. The entrance is about 45 minutes above the Gruttenhütte in the Hochgrubachkar. Surefootedness and a head for heights required; Helmet, via ferrata set and climbing harness are recommended.
  • The Kaiserschützensteig is the more demanding alternative to the normal route (difficulty B / C and I +, several places require physical effort). It is much longer, more strenuous and technically more difficult than the Gamsängersteig. In addition, it is much less insured and exposed (long passages even in steep terrain without a wire rope, only sparsely defused by iron bars). In addition, there is a considerable approach and a large difference in altitude to master from the deep Kaisertal . Starting points are the Anton-Karg-Haus and the Hans-Berger-Haus . The Kaiserschützensteig is scenic and crosses all three peaks of the Haltstock: Kleine Halt , Gamshalt and Ellmauer Halt, whereby Kleine Halt and Gamshalt can also be bypassed (each branch with a branch to the summit). It offers impressive views. A good 3 hours ascent from the start (Oberer Scharlinger Boden) without a detour to the peaks of Kleiner Halt and Gamshalt, with these peaks around 1.5 hours longer. Access to the entrance from the Hans-Berger-Haus 1.5 hours, alternatively from the Gruttenhütte via Rote-Rinn-Scharte in 2.5 hours to the entrance. Surefootedness and a head for heights as well as climbing skills required, as well as helmet, via ferrata set and climbing harness. Very well marked.

In addition, the following climbs are used:

  • Ascent over the Rote-Rinn-Scharte. The marked path leads from the Hans-Berger-Haus over the Scharlinger Boden up to the Rote-Rinn-Scharte. Shortly above this saddle, the path joins the Gamsängersteig, so that you can reach the Gruttenhütte via it. This trail thus serves as a connection between the Kaisertal in the north and the Gruttenhütte in the south and vice versa. Due to the steep scree from Scharlinger Boden to the Scharte, the ascent is very difficult and on the last few meters into the Scharte it is brittle and prone to falling rocks. In the upper part and in the transition to the Gamssängersteig, wire rope insurance and iron bars to alleviate the difficulties (difficulty A / B and I).
  • The so-called Kopftörlgrat is the east ridge of the Ellmauer Halt; a very popular climbing route (UIAA III – IV) leads over it.

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : Ellmauer Halt  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Bavarian State Geological Office, 1998, Geological map of Bavaria with explanations 1: 500,000
  2. ^ Heinrich Schwaiger in Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps , Volume I, Berlin 1894, p. 254 ff.