Hidden Peak
| Hidden Peak - Gasherbrum I. | ||
|---|---|---|
 The southwest side of Hidden Peak, on the right the south summit |
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| height | 8080 m | |
| location |
Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ), Xinjiang ( PR China ) |
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| Mountains | Gasherbrum Group ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 23.97 km → K2 | |
| Notch height | 2155 m ↓ Skyang La ( 5925 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 43 '28 " N , 76 ° 41' 46" E | |
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| First ascent | July 5, 1958 by Peter K. Schoening and Andrew Kauffman | |
| Normal way | Alpine tour (glaciated)
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 The summit pyramid (south wall) |
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 South summit of Hidden Peak as seen from Gasherbrum Basin |
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The Hidden Peak , also called Gasherbrum I , is the main summit of the Gasherbrum group and with a height of 8080 m the eleventh highest mountain on earth.
Surname
As Gasherbrum (German: "beautiful mountain") was originally a highly recognizable Gasherbrum IV designated; As the highest mountain of the massif, the Hidden Peak was named Gasherbrum I, the other mountains were numbered according to their height. The name Hidden Peak comes from the British explorer William Martin Conway , who traveled to the Baltoro area in 1892. It was chosen on the one hand because the mountain cannot be seen from the Baltoro Glacier, and on the other hand to better distinguish it from its neighbor, the Gasherbrum II . The mountain was previously called K5 , which goes back to Thomas George Montgomerie . (→ About the naming in the article Gasherbrum Group )
location
The Hidden Peak is located in the Karakoram between its Pakistani- controlled part and the Shaksgam Valley , which is claimed by China , and belongs to the most famous part of the Karakoram, the Baltoro Muztagh . It is at the very back of the Baltoro, many kilometers east of the central Concordiaplatz , where the source glaciers of the Baltoro Glacier unite to form a large river. It is hidden behind the group of Gasherbrum IV , V and VI and only a few kilometers from the Conway saddle, which provides the transition to the Indian-controlled part of the Karakoram. It can only be reached from all sides by a kilometer-long glacier march.
Its north ridge drops down to the Gasherbrum La saddle , the counter ascent finally leads to the G II. The south-east ridge, also called Urdok ridge , continues over the Urdok peaks to Sia Kangri . The steep west ridge leads from the Gasherbrum basin to the summit. The provisional end point of the southwest pillar is the 7109 m high secondary summit Gasherbrum Süd , also known as G0 due to its position at the southeast end (or beginning) of the Gasherbrum boiler. To the south-east of it lies the IHE spur , named after the International Himalaya Expedition led by GO Dyhrenfurth in 1934. Dyhrenfurth recommended it as probably the easiest ascent route; the first climbers followed this route.
Due to the Kashmir conflict and the occupation of the nearby Siachen Glacier by the Indian army , the Pakistani government closed the area of the Abruzzi Glacier above the mouth of the southern Gasherbrum Glacier. Access to the IHE spur is no longer possible, the mountain can only be reached from the Gasherbrum valley.
Ascent history
During an exploration in 1934, mountaineers only reached an altitude of 6300 m , where they had to descend. In 1936 there was also the first death on Hidden Peak.
The first ascent was achieved by a US expedition under Nicolas Clinch by Pete Schoening and Andrew Kauffman on 4th / 5th. July 1958 over the IHE spur and the southeast ridge.
On August 10, 1975, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler succeeded in a two-man expedition (with only twelve porters to the base camp) over a different route (north-west face) the second ascent and the first ascent of an eight-thousander in alpine style . They were also the first to reach the summit without additional oxygen. A day later, Hanns Schell , Robert Schauer and Herbert Zefferer reached the summit in expedition style via the path of the first climbers. Before that, they (and other members of their expedition) had succeeded in the first ascent of the 7250 m high Urdok I from a high camp on August 4th .
In 1982, Marie-José Valençot from France became the first woman to reach the summit. During the same expedition, her husband, the Swiss Sylvain Saudan , managed the first complete ski descent from an eight-thousander to the base camp.
In 1984 Messner and Hans Kammerlander caused a stir at the Gasherbrums once again with the double crossing of G II and GI. This expedition was documented by Werner Herzog with the film Gasherbrum - The Shining Mountain . Less noticed and largely unknown to this day, Jean-Christophe Lafaille's traverse over both peaks in 1996 was single-handedly. On March 9, 2012, the two Poles Adam Bielecki and Janusz Gołąb managed to climb the mountain for the first time in winter.
literature
- Reinhold Messner: The challenge. Two and an eight-thousander . BLV, Munich a. a. 1976, ISBN 3-405-11597-3 .
- Reinhold Messner: GI and G II. Challenge Gasherbrum. BLV-Verlag, Munich 1998, ISBN 3-405-15465-0 .
- Rollo Steffens: Fascination Karakoram. The wild mountains of Asia . Bruckmann, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-7654-3593-7 .
- Pierre Macaigne, Karl Lüönd: Skiing at the limit of what is possible. SYLVAIN SAUDAN. Sensation in the Himalayas: ski run from 8068 m. Panorama Verlag, Altstätten / Switzerland 1983. ISBN 3-907506-61-8 .
Web links
- Gasherbrum I on Peakbagger.com (English)
- Gasherbrum at Peakware (English)
- Hidden Peak at himalaya-info.org
Individual evidence
- ↑ Satellite image with drawn peaks and glaciers (G0 is at the bottom right in the picture)
- ↑ Expedition report Gasherbrum I on www.schmatz-online.com. At the beginning of August 1986 this expedition was surprised by the situation that access to the IHE spur was blocked for military reasons.
- ↑ Hanns Schell: Urdok I and Hidden Peak. In: American Alpine Journal 1976, p. 542 (AAJ online). Retrieved March 16, 2012.
- ^ Jozef Nyka: Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, Enchainment. In: American Alpine Journal 1997, p. 329. (AAJ online) Retrieved March 16, 2012.
- ^ Poles summit Gasherbrum I in winter Dawn.com, March 20, 2012
