New York Fashion Week

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Custo Barcelona fashion show during New York Fashion Week (2009)

The New York Fashion Week is a four times a year in New York City held Fashion Week for women's and men's fashion. It is one of the most important and most popular events of its kind worldwide and, along with London , Paris and Milan, is one of the four most important fashion weeks in the world, the Big Four .

Background and story

Entrance to the NYFW tents in Bryant Park in February 2008 ...
... and in September 2008

The first fashion week in New York City was organized for the press in 1943 by the fashion journalist Eleanor Lambert , who founded the New York Dress Institute in 1941 , and was simply called Press Week . During the Second World War , an alternative to the predominant Parisian fashion designers and at the same time a forum for American designers in their own country should be offered. This was the first centrally organized fashion week in the world; Paris followed suit in 1945 with a similar concept. From the mid-1950s the event was called Press Week of New York . Lambert founded the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in 1963 . For almost 30 years, Fashion Week in New York, albeit under one central umbrella organization, was nothing more than a series of fashion shows that were shown for press representatives and industry insiders by the respective designers at different locations in New York. It was not until 1993 that the then CFDA President Fern Mallis decided to organize the fashion shows centrally at one location. For this purpose, large, temporary tents were set up in Bryant Park , in which the designers could present their models on catwalks. The event got the title 7th on 6th . Bryant Park is located on Sixth Avenue in New York and Seventh Avenue is known as New York's fashion hub for its section through the Garment District , where it is also called Fashion Avenue . In 1994 the name New York Fashion Week was officially established. Traditionally, at New York Fashion Week, both women's and men's fashion were presented in the same week, sometimes in the same fashion show. In the years 1996 to 1998, however, separate men's fashion weeks took place in February and July. As early as the 1990s, some designers deviated from the Bryant Park location and had their shows as part of the NYFW take place at locations of their choice in New York.

From 1994 General Motors sponsored the shows and was chosen to be the main sponsor for three years in 1998, so the name changed to General Motors Fashion Week New York . Up until this year, the New York shows were always presented after the screenings in Paris, London and Milan each season, for example the women's collections for the following spring only in November. Helmut Lang , who recently moved to America at the time, decided in mid-July 1998 to put on his spring-summer 1999 women's fashion show on September 17th six weeks before the official New York Fashion Week in early November. Designer colleagues like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan went with them, and after two-part Fashion Weeks took place in New York in autumn 1998 and spring 1999 as a result, the entire New York fashion week was brought forward by six weeks until autumn 1999, so that it has always been called first among the Big Four heralds the respective season.

In 2001, the CFDA sold the concept to the International Management Group , which took over the organization of the major event. The CFDA is still responsible for the show calendar and the participating designers, although a few dozen shows are organized directly by IMG. However, many designers (as of 2015 two thirds of the participants) join the Fashion Week independently and create their own catwalk shows at individual locations. Mercedes-Benz was selected as the main sponsor with a three-year contract in 2001 , which is why the fashion week was henceforth called Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York . In 2004, Olympus became the main sponsor of NYFW and the event was renamed Olympus Fashion Week for the next three years . In 2007, Mercedes-Benz took over this role again, but withdrew as a sponsor in January 2015, and no new main sponsor was subsequently named. In 2010 there was a move from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center due to lack of space . In 2013 IMG was bought by William Morris Endeavor , who took over the organization of the NYFW as IMG / WME. A new move became necessary in 2015 after the Supreme Court of the State of New York ruled that Damrosch Park, which is part of Lincoln Center, could no longer be used as a public park by the organizers. Since then, NYFW has had two official locations: Moynihan Station in Midtown Manhattan and Clarkson Square in SoHo . Both buildings are rented by the Skylight Group, which specializes in locations for fashion shows. In 2019, when the new cultural center The Shed in Hudson Yards is due to open, NYFW is planning another move.

The New York Fashion Week took until July 2015 twice a year in February (autumn / winter fashion the following season) and September (spring / summer fashion the following season) instead. In February 2015 the CFDA announced a separate New York Fashion Week: Men's for the first time for July of the same year and for January 2016 . Since then, New York Fashion Week has taken place four times a year: twice for women (February and September) and twice for men (January / February and July), each for autumn / winter and spring / summer fashion. New York is the first of the four most important fashion cities to open the season - ahead of the other international fashion presentations at London Fashion Week , Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week . During the centrally organized fashion week in New York, the fashion designers set new trends for the corresponding season. Numerous designers present their collections in close succession to the international press and invited audiences, such as important buyers or stars and famous personalities.

In addition to more than 60 main shows by the most important designers (including Ralph Lauren , Marc Jacobs , Donna Karan , Tommy Hilfiger , Michael Kors , Diane von Fürstenberg , Carolina Herrera , Narciso Rodriguez , Betsey Johnson , Vera Wang , Max Azria , Alexander Wang , Tory Burch , The Row or Anna Sui ) there are also a large number of other, smaller events in galleries and event locations in Manhattan for the approx. 100,000 visitors. Not all major American fashion designers show their collections in New York, however: Rick Owens has been showing his men's and women's fashion in Paris, and John Varvatos has been showing his men's fashion in Milan since 2009. Calvin Klein presents women's fashion in New York and men's fashion in Milan. That's exactly how Thom Browne does it . Tom Ford has only been showing his womenswear in New York since 2016, before he was present in London. Non-American fashion designers also take part in NYFW, such as Hugo Boss (women's fashion), Akris , Lacoste , Diesel ( Black Gold ), Desigual , Marcel Ostertag , Y-3 (2006–2014, since then Paris) or in the 1990s too Helmut Lang , Wolfgang Joop or Strenesse .

See also

literature

  • Eila Mell: New York Fashion Week: The Designers, the Models, the Fashions of the Bryant Park Era . Running Press 2011, ISBN 0-762-44355-3 .
  • Jen Jones: Fashion History . The World of Fashion Series, Capstone 2007, ISBN 0-736-87882-3 .

Web links

Commons : New York Fashion Week  - Collection of Pictures, Videos and Audio Files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Julie Bradford: Fashion Journalism . Routledge, 2014, p. 129.
  2. ^ Susan Dillon: The Fundamentals of Fashion Management . A&C Black, 2011, p. 115.
  3. ^ Frédéric Godart: Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry . Palgrave Macmillan, 2012, p. 57.
  4. ^ The Big Four: Fashion Capitals of the World . Fashion Days. February 5, 2014. Retrieved November 10, 2014.
  5. ↑ huffingtonpost.com: New York Fashion Week Has Certainly Changed And Here's How (PHOTOS)
  6. ^ History of Fashion Week , fashionweekonline.com, 2016
  7. ^ The Glamorous Past, Troubled Present, and Uncertain Future of NYFW , racked.com, January 22, 2015
  8. ↑ NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN’S mr-mag.com, July 13, 2015
  9. ↑ General Motors to Sponsor the 7th on Sixth Fashion Shows theautochannel.com, March 30, 1998
  10. ↑ MAYOR GIULIANI KICKS OFF "7th ON SIXTH" FASHION WEEK AT BRYANT PARK nyc.gov, March 29, 1998
  11. ↑ NEW YORK NATURALIST; Weathering Fashion Week nytimes.com, April 5, 998
  12. ↑ STYLE OVER SUBSTANCE; Dos and Don'ts Of Runway Shows nytimes.com, August 2, 1998
  13. ↑ Moment 75: Helmut Changes the Calendar wwd.com, November 1, 2010
  14. ↑ If it's September, it must be Fashion Week. Sort of. independent.co.uk, September 24, 1998
  15. ↑ 17 Insane and Incredible Moments From New York Fashion Week History elle.com, September 8, 2016
  16. ^ The Decline and Fall of Helmut Lang nytimes.com, May 26, 2005
  17. ↑ CFDA Brands NYFW With New Logo , redscout.com, July 14, 2015
  18. ↑ Tents come down - for good - at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week , aljazeera.com, February 19, 2015
  19. ↑ FRONT ROW; Changing Cars on Midstream nytimes.com, Jan. 9, 2001
  20. ↑ Front Row; New Name Under the Tents nytimes.com, November 18, 2003
  21. ^ New York Fashion Week without Mercedes Benz vogue.de, January 8, 2015
  22. ↑ For Fashion Week This Fall: Location, Location, Location nytimes.com, January 7, 2015
  23. ^ Fashion Week, Reinvented , nytimes.com, September 9, 2015
  24. ↑ CFDA announces the launch of New York Fashion Week: Men's , latimes.com, February 6, 2015