Tommy Hilfiger Corporation

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Tommy Hilfiger Group BV

logo
legal form Besloten vennootschap
founding 1985
Seat Amsterdam , Netherlands
management
  • Martijn Hagman
  • Oliver Timm
Number of employees 30,000 (2015)
sales US $ 6.7 billion (2014)
Branch Fashion
Website global.tommy.com

The Tommy Hilfiger Corporation is an internationally operating fashion company founded by the American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger in 1985 . The seat has been in Amsterdam since 2006 . Since 2010, the company has been owned by the US Phillipps-Van Heusen Corporation , which has also owned the Calvin Klein fashion brand since 2003 .

Corporate development

Beginnings in New York

In 1985, the first men's collection was launched in New York City by fashion designer Thomas "Tommy" J. Hilfiger through financial support and licensing agreements with Indian-born American textile entrepreneur Mohan Murjani . Murjani had established the Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans brand in the USA with his company Murjani International and he owned a Coca-Cola clothing line. Hilfiger founded the company named after him in 1985 after having tried a short-lived clothing line called Rodeo as early as 1980 . Hilfiger-Mode stood out as casual sportswear with a right-angled logo in the colors: black, red, white (Hilfiger himself derives the color combination from the nautical flag alphabet ), was priced a little below the main competitor Ralph Lauren and was effective in the media with large-format Advertising posters , for example in Times Square in New York, advertised.

The almost unknown Hilfiger presented himself with the slogan “The 4 great American designers for men are: RL, PE, CK, TH.” (Eng. “The 4 great American designers for men are: RL, PE, CK, TH”) self-confidently and implicitly on a par with the design greats Ralph Lauren , Perry Ellis and Calvin Klein . This approach, albeit extremely successful, earned Hilfiger the resentment of established designer colleagues and a reputation as a “ruthless self-promoter”. The so-called ' preppy ' look was and is, as with Ralph Lauren, a trademark of Hilfiger. He also added small details to his sportswear, which he referred to as “classics with a twist”, such as buttonholes embroidered in different colors, jacket linings of different colors or polo shirt collars with a fabric underlay . In the following years, aided by ongoing targeted advertising campaigns , there was very rapid company growth with the establishment of companies in many countries.

Rise and Expansion

Shop in the Altmarkt-Galerie

In 1988, Tommy Hilfiger Co., Inc. was founded and the investor Murjani, who had run into financial difficulties because the Coca-Cola clothing line had been given up, paid off and the licenses and naming rights granted to him were bought back. In Hong Kong resident, was founded by entrepreneurs Silas Chou and Lawrence Stroll Sportswear Holdings Ltd. took a majority stake of US $ 100 million in the Hilfiger Group, which benefited from the extensive production and sales network of the two entrepreneurs in Asia . Hilfiger himself retained 22.5% of the company. Annual sales rose continuously: US $ 28 million (1989), US $ 50 million (1990), US $ 100 million (1991). In 1992, Tommy Hilfiger was successfully listed on the New York Stock Exchange . The first Hilfiger stores were opened in the following years . In 1993 sales were US $ 138 million, of which US $ 57 million was profit. In the mid-1990s, the Hilfiger brand and its preppy fashion became known for being worn in oversized sizes by so-called “ghetto kids” associated with hip-hop music in the big cities ( baggy look), whereupon the company finally launched responded successfully in the short term by offering the clothing in extra-large sizes and with enlarged logos and neglecting the preppy look.

When rapper Snoop Dogg wore a Hilfiger shirt on Saturday Night Live in March 1994 , Hilfiger conquered the rapper scene and the street fashion market; the sales figures continued to skyrocket. At the same time, however, the prestige of the Tommy Hilfiger brand fell and the Preppy clientele was pissed off. Hilfiger felt the ostracism of his designer colleagues when the Council of Fashion Designers of America decided in 1994 that his award for Menswear Designer of the Year , for which Hilfiger had been considered a safe candidate, was simply not that year to rent. Hilfiger received it in 1995.

At the same time, the sporty Hilfiger Athletics collection was presented, boys' fashion was launched under the Hilfiger brand and the license business with accessories and home textiles was expanded. The successful men's perfume Tommy was released in 1994. In 1995, Hilfiger jeans produced by Pepe Jeans were offered for the first time . The London jeans manufacturer Pepe was bought up for 100 million US dollars specifically for this purpose. The company's sales continued to rise and in addition to numerous shops-in-shops at large department stores, additional Hilfiger stores were opened. In 1996, a women's collection was launched for the first time, which was produced under license by Pepe Jeans and presented at the London Fashion Week . The women's perfume Tommy Girl was successfully launched with Estée Lauder , other fragrances followed. 1997 in Amsterdam , the European headquarters of Hilfiger, Tommy Hilfiger Europe BV , founded and established the brand under license in the European market. The Dutchman Fred Gehring, a long-time business partner of Stroll and Lawrence, became CEO . A design team was put together in Amsterdam for European fashion, which at that time was positioned higher than the American Hilfiger fashion and enjoyed a “high-quality reputation”. In 1998, the jeans-heavy collection Hilfiger Denim was launched in Europe and a European license for upscale men's fashion, Tommy Hilfiger Tailored Clothing , was granted to the clothing specialist Strellson (later: Holy Fashion Group ). The Tommy Jeans collection debuted in 1999. The tommy.com website also went online in 1999 , a girls' collection was offered, and Hilfiger annual sales were US $ 1.63 billion. At the end of the 1990s - as a retrospectively failed strategy to get rid of the stigma of ghetto street fashion - there was the high-priced and ultra-fashionable Red Label designer collection made in New York and the classic White Label Hilfiger collection made in Italy for a short time Ladies and gentlemen. In 2000 golf and swimwear was added to the portfolio. However, these projects had the effect that the rapper and hip-hop scene withdrew from the Hilfiger brand, while new groups of buyers could not or not sufficiently be reached.

Sales collapse and sales

At the turn of the millennium , US sales declined and the brand lost some of its appeal, although sales in European markets increased. The share price had fallen by up to 75% from 1999 to 2000. In 2002, 37 of a total of 44 Hilfiger stores had to be closed. The flagship stores in London's high-end street, Bond Street and Beverly Hills ( Rodeo Drive ), were classified as wrong strategic decisions and also closed - the local buyers, albeit wealthy, were too old for the Hilfiger brand. Chou and Stroll withdrew from the company and bought shares in the Michael Kors fashion brand . In 2001 the license for the European market was bought back for US $ 200 million. In 2002 the first European Hilfiger store was opened in Düsseldorf. At the beginning of the 2000s, a tax evasion suit , which was discontinued in 2005 after repayments, and lawsuits by its own shareholders, damaged the company. Considerations were made as to whether Hilfiger fashion should be sold at Wal-Mart , whether Wal-Mart should even take over the Hilfiger company. In retail sales collapsed by up to 75%. The sizes were reduced, narrower silhouettes introduced, the collections rejuvenated. In 2004, the upscale H Hilfiger collection was added to the portfolio, although it was withdrawn from the retail market in 2005 .
At the end of 2004, the group bought the trademark rights of the fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld and again gained worldwide attention. Hilfiger's initial business partner Murjani was Tommy Hilfiger's licensee in India from 2004 to 2011 , after which the company took over distribution on the subcontinent itself.

In 2004, the group had sales of around US $ 1.4 billion. In 2005, the investment company Apax Partners took over 80% of the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation (including the Karl Lagerfeld brand ) for US $ 1.6 billion after the company's sales collapsed. The company was removed from the stock market and privatized. Gehring was promoted to group CEO. Gehring's successor as CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Europe was Daniel Grieder from Switzerland. Apax then tried unsuccessfully to bring Tommy Hilfiger back onto the stock market. The upscale Tommy Hilfiger Collection was launched in the USA at the end of 2005 as a catwalk line manufactured in-house in Italy . The corporate headquarters were finally relocated from New York to Amsterdam in early 2006. At the end of 2007, Hilfiger signed an exclusive sales agreement for the US market with the Macy’s department store chain . The number of own stores worldwide has doubled to almost 1,000 stores since the early 2000s. Sales in the 2008/09 financial year amounted to approximately US $ 1.6 billion; As in the previous year, profit amounted to US $ 270 million. The website hilfigerdenim.com was launched in 2009 . In early 2010, the Hilfiger collection, created with the help of designer Peter Som, was presented at New York Fashion Week and received critical acclaim. The US $ 300 million net profit for 2009 is largely due to the European division. The European business generated around US $ 795 million in revenues in 2008/09.

In 2010, the European business accounted for 44% of global sales and in the same year the company celebrated its 25th anniversary. The license awarded to the Holy Fashion Group in Kreuzlingen (Switzerland) for the Tommy Hilfiger Tailored Clothing business line was terminated at the end of 2011; the clothing line will be continued from spring / summer 2013 by the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation without a license. [obsolete] At the same time, the company concluded a license agreement with the Italian clothing manufacturer Ittierre for production and international sales from autumn 2012 onwards for the upscale Tommy Hilfiger Collection top line for women and men, which was launched in 2006 and has so far been manufactured in-house. The license was taken back by Ittierre at the end of 2013 and given to the Italian fashion manufacturer Pier from Treviso , which also produces for Porsche Design , Balenciaga , Dior , Dries Van Noten and Yves Saint Laurent .

Phillips Van Heusen

In March 2010 it was announced that the American fashion group Phillips-Van Heusen , which also owns the Calvin Klein brand, will buy Hilfiger for the equivalent of 2.2 billion euros (almost 3 billion US dollars) by autumn 2010 at the latest % of Apax will take over. In return, Apax will hold shares in PVH. For the purchase of the Calvin Klein brand, in which Apax Partners was also involved, PVH had paid just under a seventh of this sum in 2003, US $ 430 million plus fees for license income. The Karl Lagerfeld brand was not part of the transaction and remained with Apax Partners. For the 2010 financial year, the Tommy Hilfiger brand contributed US $ 4.6 billion with worldwide sales of US $ 1.94 billion to PVH consolidated sales.

In 2013, the Tommy Hilfiger brand generated worldwide sales of US $ 6.4 billion, of which 41% was generated in North America and 43% in Europe.

Tommy Hilfiger branch in Japan

At the beginning of 2015, the Tommy Hilfiger brand was available in around 90 countries and 1,400 Hilfiger stores (end of 2010: 1,040 stores in 65 countries), around half of which are operated by the company itself. As of 2010, there were around 425 stores in Europe and 122 in Japan. The company has seven large flagship stores worldwide in Manhattan, Paris, London (2 ×), Tokyo, West Hollywood and Düsseldorf.

In addition, Tommy Hilfiger operates around 90 medium-sized anchor stores worldwide, for example in Berlin, Hamburg, Cologne, Frankfurt, Zurich and Vienna. In the US in 2010 next to shops-in-shop existed about 240 Hilfiger stores in the department store chain Macy's, which with a few exceptions like the flagship stores Outlet stores ( Tommy Hilfiger Company Store were). Local license agreements for the Hilfiger brand exist for Asia and South America.
In December, Tommy Hilfiger upgraded its own brand image by launching a "high-quality capsule collection" together with cashmere specialist Lanificio Colombo .

Portfolio

Cooperation with Gigi Hadid since 2015

The Tommy Hilfiger Corporation is a branded company in the upper mid-price segment with sales organizations in many countries.

The brand portfolio is divided into two (formerly three) large areas:

  • Tommy Hilfiger (fashionable sportswear for women and men, business line Tailored Collection for women and men, high-priced catwalk collection (Tommy) Hilfiger Collection for women and men, children's clothing, underwear, shoes, accessories, fragrances, home furnishings)
  • Hilfiger Denim (jeans and sportswear collection for younger women and men)

The third category - Hilfiger Sport (sportswear for women and men, successor to Hilfiger Athletics ) - has not been part of the portfolio since the beginning of the 2010s.

In cooperation with the model Gigi Hadid , Tommy Hilfiger has been developing the TommyNow Drive collection since December 2015 . In 2016, the joint collection TommyXGigi was presented.

Germany

Tommy Hilfiger branch in Mannheim

The largest European sales market is Germany. Together with Spain, around 40% of Hilfiger's European sales are generated in Germany. In Germany, the company is controlled by Düsseldorf-based Tommy Hilfiger Deutschland GmbH , whose managing director was Dieter Holzer until 2006 and which has been headed by Oliver Timm since then. The Hilfiger Stores GmbH is responsible among other things for the German website of the company. At the beginning of 2010 there were 46 Tommy Hilfiger boutiques in Germany and the company announced further openings. Sales in Germany for 2009 were estimated at around EUR 190 million. From 2010 until the fashion fair was closed in 2014, Hilfiger was again represented at Bread & Butter in Berlin .

Web links

Commons : Tommy Hilfiger  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Our Brands> Tommy Hilfiger ( Memento of the original dated February 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , pvh.com, accessed: February 14, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.pvh.com
  2. ↑ a b H as in Hilfiger , FAZ.net, September 22, 2005
  3. ↑ A star is born - creating a celebrity with two outrageous ads ( Memento des Originals from September 21, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , georgelois.com, last accessed August 26, 2010 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.georgelois.com
  4. ↑ Reicher, higher, Hilfiger focus.de, October 14, 1996
  5. ↑ Chic from the secondary school , tagesspiegel.de, February 20, 2010
  6. ↑ Making Of An Icon , time.com, September 6, 2004
  7. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger - American dream , menshealth.de, April 16, 2004
  8. ↑ a b Tommy’s Tumble , NYmag.com, February 12, 2001
  9. ^ Winner of the CFDA from 1981 to 2009 , cfda.com, accessed on March 13, 2015 (English).
  10. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger: Start in Europe  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, November 2, 1995@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  11. ^ Still Tommy after all these years , New York Times, December 7, 2008
  12. ↑ Fashion company Hilfiger is considering going public , faz.net, September 5, 2007
  13. ^ Company information: Strellson , sueddeutsche.de, October 12, 2007
  14. ↑ Rebranding failures: Tommy Hilfiger , brandfailures.blogspot.com, December 6, 2006
  15. ↑ a b Tommy Hilfiger replants His American Flag NYtimes.com, May 14, 2010
  16. ↑ Top pairing in the fashion industry: The US designer Hilfiger will market the German colleague Lagerfeld. , finanzen.net, December 19, 2004
  17. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger enters the Indian business directly , textilwirtschaft.de, September 12, 2011
  18. ^ Who turns fame and name into money , handelsblatt.com, August 27, 2008
  19. ↑ Fashion company slips at Calvin Klein under , focus.de, March 15, 2010
  20. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger is acquired by Apax Partners for $ 1.6 billion finanzen.net on December 23, 2005
  21. ↑ Calvin Klein buys Tommy Hilfiger , handelsblatt.de, March 15, 2010
  22. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger appoints Daniel Grieder as CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Europe , moneycrab, October 23, 2008, accessed March 13, 2015.
  23. ↑ Fashion: Tommy Hilfiger is on sale , diepresse.com, March 15, 2010
  24. ↑ Tommy cuts Jobs, moving HQ overseas ( Memento of the original from June 10, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Daily News Record (via Highbeam), May 29, 2006 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.highbeam.com
  25. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger: High sales plus, par in earnings , textile industry, June 8, 2009
  26. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger wants to start with accessories stores  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Textile Industry, March 18, 2010@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  27. ↑ a b Tommy Hilfiger: The most important facts at a glance  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Textile Industry, March 16, 2010@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  28. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger brings license for made-to-measure clothing in Europe into his own company ( Memento of the original from October 24, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , presseportal.de, October 24, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.presseportal.de
  29. ↑ Hilfiger gets Tailored Apparel back  ( page can no longer be accessed , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , fashionunited.de, October 25, 2011@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.fashionunited.de  
  30. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger Announces Global Licensing Agreement With Ittierre SPA for Men's and Women's Runway Collections ( Memento of the original from January 18, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , pvh.com, December 19, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.pvh.com
  31. ^ Ittierre Receives Runway License from Tommy Hilfiger , fashionmag.com, December 21, 2011
  32. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger announces global license agreement with Ittierre SpA for catwalk collections for men and women ( Memento of the original from June 19, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , presseportal.de, December 21, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.presseportal.de
  33. ↑ Ittierre loses the Hilfiger license ( memento of the original from February 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, November 8, 2013 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  34. ↑ Pier Spa: Portfolio Brands> Production Agreements , pierspa.com, accessed: February 14, 2015
  35. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein in one hand ( memento from March 18, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) tagesschau.de from March 15, 2010, accessed on March 13, 2015.
  36. ↑ Phillips-Van Heusen buys Tommy Hilfiger textilwirtschaft.de on March 15, 2010
  37. ^ Billion deal : Calvin Klein buys Tommy Hilfiger , handelsblatt.com, March 15, 2010
  38. ↑ Philips-Van Heusen wants to buy Calvin Klein  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, December 19, 2002@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  39. ↑ The Apax and PVH story: Innovative financing ( Memento of September 8, 2008 in the Internet Archive ), apax.com, accessed on March 13, 2015.
  40. ↑ PVH: New name, sustained growth  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, June 30, 2011@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  41. ↑ PVH Annual Report 2013: Tommy Hilfiger (page 31) ( Memento of the original from February 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , pvh.com, accessed: February 14, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / pvh.com
  42. ↑ PVH Annual Report 2013: Tommy Hilfiger (page 18) ( Memento of the original from February 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , pvh.com, accessed: February 14, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / pvh.com
  43. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger announces flagship store reopening , sportswearnet.com, August 19, 2013
  44. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger opens anchor store in Berlin , fashionmag.com, January 13, 2015
  45. ↑ Tommy Hilfiger: Cashmere line together with Lanificio Colombo ( Memento of the original from July 11, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , europolitan.de, December 20, 2012 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.europolitan.de
  46. ↑ Tommy x Gigi | The new collection (April 10, 2017)
  47. ↑ "TOMMYNOW DRIVE": Tommy Hilfiger's last collection with Gigi Hadid (February 26, 2018)
  48. ↑ TommyXGigi: The first pictures of the Gigi Hadid collection for Tommy Hilfiger are here! (August 16, 2016)
  49. ↑ Photo gallery Club-Nacht Hilfiger  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , OK Magazine, October 22, 2009@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.ok-magazin.de  
  50. ↑ Hilfiger Germany plans high sales growth for 2010/11  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Textile Industry, March 25, 2010@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de