Teufelshorn (Glockner Group)
| Teufelshorn and Glocknerhorn | ||
|---|---|---|
 Großglockner (left), Glocknerwand (right), in the middle Glocknerhorn and Teufelshorn |
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| height | 3680 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Border between Carinthia and East Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Austrian Central Alps , Hohe Tauern , Glockner Group | |
| Dominance | 0.18 km → Grossglockner | |
| Notch height | 32 m ↓ Scharte to Großglockner | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 4 ′ 34 " N , 12 ° 41 ′ 30" E | |
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| rock | Prasinite | |
| First ascent | August 8, 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner, led by Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier (Teufelshorn) and August 29, 1879 by Gustav Gröger and Christian Ranggetiner (Glocknerhorn) | |
| Normal way | Approach from the Stüdlhütte via the Teischnitzkees and the Untere Glocknerscharte or the Grögerschneide | |
The devil horn is loud Literature 3,677 meters, according to the Austrian Federal Office of Metrology and Surveying , however, 3680 meter high mountain peak in the Glockner Group in the Central Alps in the middle part of the Hohe Tauern . It lies on the northwest ridge of the neighboring Großglockner on which the border between the Austrian federal states of Tyrol ( East Tyrol ) and Carinthia runs. The Teufelshorn is an approximately 30-meter-high, tower-like, pointed summit protruding from the massif, which together with the neighboring, similar-looking, 3680-meter-high Glocknerhorn looks like a twin peak . The Teufelshorn was first climbed on August 8, 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner , led by Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier. The 3,680 meter high Glocknerhorn, on the other hand, was conquered on August 29, 1879 by the alpinists Gustav Gröger and Christian Ranggetiner.
Surroundings
Teufelshorn and Glocknerhorn are part of the central Glockner ridge and are flanked by extensive glacier areas in the northeast and southwest . The Glocknerkees , which is part of the Pasterze , the largest glacier area in Austria, extends to the northeast . In the south-west lies the Teischnitzkees , which is bounded by the Luisengrat , the southern continuation of the Stüdlgrat leading to the Großglockner . The neighboring mountain is in the northwest, separated by the Untere Glocknerscharte at an altitude of 3596 meters , the Glocknerwand with its seven to 3722 meter high summit ridge towers. In the southeast lies the Großglockner, the dominant main peak of the Glockner group. The next significant settlements in the south-west are the large village in the Tyrolean Kalser Valley, 9 kilometers away as the crow flies , and Winkl near Heiligenblut am Großglockner, 12 kilometers to the west .
Support points, transitions and routes
The two horns can only be reached as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and glacier experience. The Stüdlhütte at 2802 meters above sea level, or the Glockner bivouac box at 3260 meters above sea level, on the northern edge of the Glocknerkees, below the Glocknerwandkamp , serve as bases . The first climbers climbed from the south over the Grögerrinne to the Glocknerhorn and over the southeast ridge up to the Teufelshorn. The ascent to the Horns is still made today from the Untere Glocknerscharte or the Grögerschneide (3660 m) in the southeast. The peaks can only be climbed . Difficult climbing routes have been done since 1933, there are partly combined tours (rock / ice) on the north face of the Teufelshorn and the northwest ramp of the Glocknerhorn. They have difficulties up to the level of difficulty UIAA V- , with an ice slope of up to 80 °.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Individual evidence
- ^ Oesterreichische Alpenzeitung , VI. Year, Vienna 1884, p. 290
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 294 ff., Margin no. 1068 ff.