Zagori
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Zagori municipality Δήμος Ζαγορίου |
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| Basic data | |||
| State : |
 Greece
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| Region : | Epirus | ||
| Regional District : | Ioannina | ||
| Geographic coordinates : | 39 ° 54 ' N , 20 ° 54' E | ||
| Area : | 995.31 km² | ||
| Residents : | 3,724 () | ||
| Population density : | 3.7 inhabitants / km² | ||
| Seat: | Asprangeli | ||
| LAU-1 code no .: | 1804 | ||
| Districts : | 5 municipal districts | ||
| Local self-government : | 44 local communities | ||
| Website: | zagori.gov.gr | ||
| Location in the Epirus region | |||
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Zagori ( Greek Ζαγόρι ( n. Sg. )) Is a municipality in the northwest Greek region of Epirus . The largest municipality in the region with the lowest population was founded on January 1, 2011. It is named after the historical area of the same name with the villages called Zagorochoria or Zagoria . The administrative center is the small town of Asprangeli .
Etymology and toponyms
The name Zagori ('behind the mountain') is first documented in a gold bull of Emperor Andronikos II in 1321. It has its origins in the Old Slavic Zagorь̂je for za 'behind' and gora 'mountain' or 'forest'. The fact that it is difficult to reach the individual locations has proven to be an advantage over the course of history. As a result, the region was spared major upheavals over the centuries. The inhabitants of these inaccessible areas are the Sarakatsans , who use some ancient words and speak their own dialect, which is generally regarded as the successor to Doric Greek .
geography
The land, characterized by wooded mountains and deep ravines, is bordered by the mountain ranges of the Tymfi in the north and west and the Mitsikeli and Lakmos in the south. The area can be roughly described with an isosceles triangle. The cornerstones are the provincial capital Ioannina in the south, the Aoos gorge with Konitsa in the north and Metsovo in the southeast. A large part of the area is taken up by the National Park Vikos-Aoos and National Park Pindos (Valia-Kalda). The individual villages can be reached via narrow, winding roads and paved paths, and many stone bridges cross streams and rivers. Most of the winter the land is covered with snow and the villages are difficult to reach. With a population density of 4 inhabitants / km², the area is very sparsely populated. The region is rich in brooks and rivers, some of which only have seasonal water. They have cut many spectacular canyons in the rock. The best known include the Aoos , the Voidomatis and the Zagoritikos .
location
The municipality of Zagori is located in the east of the Epirus region between the cities of Ioannina in the south, Konitsa in the north and Metsovo in the east. Neighboring municipalities are Grevena in the east in the West Macedonia region and within the Epirus region in the southeast Metsovo , in the south Ioannina , in the west Zitsa and Pogoni and in the north Konitsa .
Economy and Transport
In the west the national road 20 runs between Ioannina and Konitsa, in the south the national road 6 and the Egnatia Odos . The mountainous landscape has always made extensive development difficult, so that some villages are still only accessible on foot. The closest connection to local transport is via Ioannina.
history
The first evidence of human settlement comes from the time between 17,000 and 10,000 years before our era. Tools from the Epipalaeolithic have been found in the Klidi grotto in the Voidomatis gorge . In ancient times the area was inhabited by the Tymphaeans who belonged to the kingdom of the Molossians . Later, in the classical period, the whole of Epirus was part of their territory. The Molossians were known for their large war dogs, which they carried on their campaigns. Molossos (Μολοσσός), the legendary founder of the people, is said to have been a son of Neoptolemos (Νεοπτόλεμος, a son of Achilles ) and Andromache (Hector's wife). Because of his light hair he was called Pyrrhos and founded a dynasty of Epirotic kings that reached up to Pyrrhos I in the Hellenistic period. He led some campaigns against the Romans in Italy. Olympias of Epirus , the mother of Alexander , was a princess of the family of the Molossians. Their home was the city of Molossis (Μολοσσίδα), which was at the confluence of the rivers Aoos , Voidomatis , and Sarantaporos (Σαραντάπορος) in the north of Zagori. Remains of the Cyclopean walls at Skamneli (Σκαμνέλι Ιωαννίνων) bear witness to the early settlement. Between the 9th and 4th centuries BC There was also a small Molossian settlement between Monodendri (Μονοδένδρι Ιωαννίνων) and Vitsa (Βίτσα Ιωαννίνων). Stone houses and two burial sites have been found where important archaeological finds have come to light. Even if the country has a great past, for the longest time there was only a rural society and just enough supplies to survive. During this time the Greek shepherd tribe of the Sarakatsans immigrated , whose descendants still nomad between Greece, Bulgaria and Macedonia. 167 BC The Romans conquered 70 cities from Epirus, took 150,000 residents with them to Rome and destroyed Zagori.
Byzantine era
The influx of Slavic population at the beginning of Byzantine rule is documented by a large number of place names in the region. Apparently there were some groups of warriors who gained a foothold in the region and established settlements. At the same time, various monasteries emerged, such as the Voutsa Monastery (Μονή Βουτσάς) near Greveniti , the Metamorphosis Monastery (Μονή της Μεταμόρφωσης) near Klidonia , which was founded in the 7th century by Emperor Constantine IV , and the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Rongkou ( Μονή Αγίου Ιωάννη Ρογκοβού), near Tsepelovo (founded in 1208 by the sister of Romanos III. ).
Between 1204 and 1337 the area came under the despotate of Epirus . In the 14th century, Zagori was a stronghold of Hellenism. During this time there were frequent incursions by Albanian tribes. The inhabitants of Zagori made up a large part of the Ioannina garrison . Under Emperor Andronikos III. In 1337 the despotate came under Byzantine rule again for a short time. The Serbian tsar Stefan Uroš IV. Dušan took power as early as 1348 , and soon afterwards Carlo I Tocco annexed the area to his Latin county. However, the Ottomans conquered the region as early as 1430 and Zagori had to “bend their knees” before Sultan Murad II .
Ottoman time
In 1431 a contract was negotiated with Sinan Pasha . The Zagorians were given a certain autonomy: The Koinon of Zagori ( Turkish Norhaye Zagor ), an autonomous community of then 14 villages, was born. The conditions included embassies and taxes, but the municipalities had administrative freedoms and Turks were forbidden to cross the borders of the area. The Voinikos Agreement (Συνθήκης του Βοϊνίκου) regulated the status. The Zagorians received their own jurisdiction through a council of elders, the so-called Dimogerontia (Δημογεροντία), which was represented by the so-called Vekylis (Βεκύλης). In addition, they kept their own security force, the Sipachi (σπαχήδες). In 1480 the villages of eastern Zagori, mostly Aromanian-Vlachian villages, joined the treaty. Therefore the area was ethnically very mixed. Both Aromanian and Slavic population shares belonged to the Koinon. But nevertheless the community received the strongest Greek character. Not least because of the emigrants who supported the Greek school education. A reorganization took place in 1670, when further privileges (Surutia, Σουρούτια) were negotiated under a new treaty, which were only finally signed by the Sultan in 1868. The 14 villages were first mentioned in 912 AD and developed a steadily increasing trade over time. This agreement was beneficial for the conquerors, but it also brought salvation to Zagori, because it gave the protective character offered by the natural conditions a legal basis and Zagori was never divided up in order to satisfy Turkish landowners. As a result, a large group of traders with connections to Romania , Russia and Constantinople developed . They became the ruling class and did much to make the area flourish. In the 17th century the villages in western Zagori also joined the treaty, so that in 1678 60 villages belonged to the "Koinon". In the 18th century schools for boys and girls were built, mills were built, the water supply was equipped with ornate fountains and numerous bridges (γιοφύρια) were built. There was a local traditional medicine, which was represented by the "Vikos doctors" (γιατρών το Βίκου), who collected the herbs for their treatments in the gorges of the Vikos. Some of the schools that were built on the basis of generous donations from the zagorian Phanariotes and other emigrants have survived to this day, such as the Public School of Greek Learning (Kini Scholi Ellinikon Mathimaton -Κοινή Σχολή λλληνικών θαθημάτων) in Monodendriaris (donated by Manthios - Μάνθος, Γεώργιος Ριζάρης 1835). The brothers also opened the church school in Athens Rizario Ekklisiastiki Scholi (Ριζάρειο Εκκλησιαστική Σχολή στην Αθήνα, 1844) when Zagori was completely under Ottoman rule. The brothers Ioannis and Dimitrios Anagnostopoulos from Dilofo founded the Anagnostopouleios in their home village and supported the Zosimaia Scholi in Ioannina. Michael Anagnostopoulos from Papingo built the Kallinios School in Papingo and the Anagnostopoulios School in Konitsa. Thanks to this promotion, the Greek language has been well preserved in the area. Since the mountains were beyond the direct influence of the Ottomans, they offered a safe haven for Greeks fleeing the authorities. Several scholars of the Enlightenment in Greece , such as Neofytos Doukas and Athanasios Psalidas found refuge here after the sultan's army destroyed Ioannina in 1820. There were even plans to establish a university in the monastery of Agios Ioannis near Rogovou , near Tsepelovo. In 1820, after the uprising of Ali Pasha , a Turkish force of 1,500 soldiers under Ismael Pasha was sent to Zagori. Alexis Noutsos from Kapesovo, a member of the Filiki Eteria , commanded the defense forces, but the Sultan's forces won the day. Ismael Pasha abolished most of the privileges and was only given the right to appoint the governor (Vekylis), but his authority was also only nominal. A high tax of 250 pieces of silver per person and additional taxes were introduced, and Albanian and local bandits began their mischief. This only ended when Zagori was liberated in the Balkan War in 1913 .
Modern times
During the Italian attack on Greece in 1940, the Zagorochoria carried the main burden of the war, especially since the area was also the site of the fighting between the Germans and the partisans under Napoleon Zervas during World War II . Several villages and the Votsa monastery were burned in retaliation. After the Greek Civil War (1946–49) the villages were almost completely depopulated, many Epiroten had emigrated or were looking for work in the urban centers. It was not until the 1980s, when the interest in tourism grew, that state initiatives began to develop and preserve the region's culture and nature.
Administrative division
The Zagorochoria are often divided geographically into three areas, West Zagori , Central Zagori and East Zagori with a total of 44 to 46 villages. However, their external delimitations and their subdivision into three areas are made differently depending on their function. In the northwest, the villages of Geroplatanos , Mavrovouni , Ano Ravenia and Kato Ravenia have not been included since the construction of the Ioannina-Konitsa road. With 995.31 km² and less than 4000 inhabitants, Zagori is the largest and least populated municipality in the Epirus region and one of the least populated regions on the Greek mainland.
As a result of the administrative reform in 2010 , the municipalities of Anatoliko Zagori in the southeast and south, Kendriko Zagori in the west, Tymfi in the center and in the north, and the rural municipalities of Papingo in the northwest and Vovousa in the east were merged into the municipality of Zagori on January 1, 2011. The previous communities and rural communities were given the status of community districts, the former community districts became local communities. Today's municipality of Zagori consists of 5 municipal districts (Sg. Dimotiki enotita Δημοτική ενότητα) with a total of 44 local communities (Sg. Topiki Kinotita Τοπική Κοινότητα). Asprangeli is the administrative seat of the municipality.
| Parish | Greek name | code | Seat | Area km² | 2001 residents | Residents 2011 | Local communities |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anatoliko Zagori | Δημοτική ενότητα Ανατολικού Ζαγορίου | 180402 | Miliotades | 269.657 | 2402 | 1469 | Agia Paraskevi, Anthratikis, Greveniti, Demati, Doliani, Elatochori, Itea, Kavallari, Karyes, Kastanonas, Makrino, Petra, Potamia, Tristeno, Flambourari |
| Vovousa | Δημοτική ενότητα Βοβούσης | 180403 | Vovousa | 51.029 | 179 | 115 | Vovousa |
| Kendriko Zagori | Δημοτική ενότητα Κεντρικού Ζαγορίου | 180401 | Asprangeli | 206.683 | 1601 | 1011 | Agios Minas, Ano Pedina, Aristi, Asprangeli, Dikorfo, Dilofo, Dipotamo, Elati, Elafotopos, Kaloutas, Kato Pedina, Manassis, Mesovouni, Monodendri, Vikos, Vitsa |
| Papingo | Δημοτική ενότητα Παπίγκου | 180404 | Papingo | 34.131 | 357 | 267 | Papingo |
| Tymfi | Δημοτική ενότητα Τύμφης | 180405 | Tsepelovo | 428.296 | 1493 | 862 | Vradeto, Vrysochori, Iliochori, Kapesovo, Kipi, Koukoulli, Laista, Leptokarya , Negades, Skamnelli, Tsepelovo, Frangades |
| total | 1804 | Asprangeli | 989.796 | 3724 | |||
Culture
Unique customs (Λαϊκή παράδοση) go back to ancient Greek, pagan or Christian festivals. The churches and monasteries celebrate their patronage festivals, for example sometimes with festivals that can last for several days. The mourning customs are also characteristic. Funeral chants (moirologia - μοιρολόγια) accompany the funeral ceremonies and after 1–3 years the bones of the deceased are exhumed, washed, perfumed and transferred in a wooden larnax to an ossuary.
Attractions
The Zagori area is one of the most charming natural landscapes in Greece, a large part of which is under nature protection as the Vikos-Aoos National Park. There are several monasteries on the slopes of the river, such as the Monastery of Panagias Spiliotissas (Μονή Παναγίας Σπηλιώτισσας) and the Monastery of Agias Paraskevis (Μονή Άγιας Παρασκευήaftς) from the year 1414. There is the possibility of driving on the Kajingakoid Vomatis and Rajingakoid Companies. The unique architecture of the villages of Zagori can be seen in the monasteries, churches, mansions, bridges and fountains built from the local stones. The feudal houses of wealthy merchants mostly have covered entrance gates and can be up to four storeys high. Many of the old houses have been renovated on the initiative of the Greek Tourism Organization (EOT - πρόγραμμα διατήρησης και ανάπτυξης παραδοσιακών οικισμών, 1975-1992) and are now available as hotels and holiday apartments.
One of the most famous villages is Monodendri ( Greek Μονοδένδρι ) with its cobbled streets and the beautiful village square, where you can enjoy Epirotic specialties such as Galotiri ( Greek Γαλοτύρι ) and Kitsopitta ( Greek Κιτσόπιττα ) in the restaurant under a huge plane tree . In the church of Agios Minas you can find wall paintings and a very beautiful iconostasis from 1619. A cobbled path leads to the monastery of Agia Paraskevi from 1414, about 700 m away , high above the Vikos gorge . At Asprangeli there is a monument to the wife of Zagori ⊙ .
Other churches and monasteries
- Church of Agios Nikolaos on the edge of Vitsa ( Greek Βίτσα ): simple rectangular building with a three-sided apse . An inscription above the door to the narthex , which was added later, dates the building to the years 1611/12. The frescoes in the interior with scenes from the life of St. Nicholas were done by the painter Michael von Linotopion (in the Grammos Mountains) in 1618.
- Votsas Monastery in Greveniti ( Greek Γρεβενίτι ) from 672 with wall paintings from the 17th century.
- Church of Agios Georgios in Negades ( Greek Νεγάδες ) with its wall paintings and wood-carved templon .
- Church of Agios Nikolaos and Prodromou Rogovou monastery in Tsepelovo ( Greek Τσεπέλοβο ), the latter also with wall paintings and a beautiful templon.
- Agia Triada Monastery in Vrysochori ( Greek Βρυσοχώρι ) with an underground church and an artfully carved templon.
Stone bridges
In many places the river is spanned by characteristic Epirotic stone bridges. 53 arched bridges were counted and the most famous of these are the bridge of Klidonias (ή Κλειδωνιάβιστας), the bridge named after its builder Alexis Misios, and the three-arched bridge of Kipi ( Greek Κίπι ). The place Vradeto is particularly well-known because it used to be only accessible via sky-high stairs in the rock.
Museums
The Museum of Natural History is housed in a mansion in Koukouli ( Greek Κουκούλι ) and contains, among other things, a 2500-specimen herbarium of the local flora , which the writer Kostas Lazaridis created.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Max Vasmer : The Slaves in Greece , Prussian Academy of Sciences, Berlin 1941 p. 34 online
- ↑ Rockshelter Kleidi in Epirus
- ↑ Despina Vokou: Ethnobotanical survey of Zagori (Epirus, Greece), a renowned center of folk medicine in the past , Journal of Ethnopharmacology
- ↑ Βασίλης Μηνακάκης Ζαγοροχώρια (Zagorochoria) '' Explorer, Athens, 2006.
- ^ Hammond, Nicholas (1976). Migrations and invasions in Greece and adjacent areas. Noyes Press. P. 61. ISBN 0-8155-5047-2
- ↑ Frangoulis, Odysseas T., '' Το Σκαμνέλι. Συμβολή στην ιστορία του, ήθη - έθιμα - παραδόσεις (Skamneli, a Contribution to its History: Cultural Practices, Customs, and Traditions) '', published by the Association of Skamneliots in Zagori, Ioannina 1988.
- ↑ Ευριπίδης Γιαννάκος '' Το Μοναστήρι του Αγιάννη στο Ρογκοβό (The Monastery of St John of Rogovou) '' Εκδόσεις Το Ζαγόριας 1985.
- ↑ Reinhardt Hootz: Greece I Das Festland (= picture handbook of art monuments ), Deutscher Kunstverlag , Munich / Berlin 1982, p. 454. ISBN 3-422-00375-4 .
- ^ Johannes Kautzky: Greece - mainland and coast (= travel guide nature ), BLV-Verlag Munich 1993, p. 117. ISBN 3-405-14197-4
- ↑ http://www.koukouli-zagoriou.gr/index.php/en/history/in-the-20th-century/96-history/226-k-lazaridis
- ↑ Latermann / Karbe / Kretzschmar: Greece (= Kosmos NaturReisführer ), Franckh-Kosmos- Verlag Stuttgart 2001, p. 96. ISBN 3-440-08476-0
literature
- Thede Kahl: The Zagori Villages in Northern Greece: Economic Unity - Ethnic Diversity . In: Ethnologia Balkanica . tape 3 , 1999, p. 103-119 .
- Maria Mavromataki : Greece. 8500 years of culture; Between legend and history. Translator: Ingrid Livieratou. Haitalis, Athens 2002. pp. 194-196. ISBN 9789608284036 (960-8384-03-1)
- Greece . 8,500 years of culture - between legend and history. Editions Haitalis, Athens 2002. ISBN 960-8284-03-1 , pp. 194f.
Web links
- Zagori municipality (Greek)
- Rockshelter Kleidi in Epirus the cradle of the Greek world.
- Melek Delilbaşı: Contributions to the History of Epirus PDF