Big Mörchner
| Big Mörchner | ||
|---|---|---|
 Big Mörchner from the west |
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| height | 3285 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Zillertal Alps | |
| Dominance | 2.05 km → Schwarzenstein | |
| Notch height | 154 m ↓ Schwarzenstein saddle | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 1 '53 " N , 11 ° 51' 54" E | |
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| First ascent | August 19, 1846 by Karl Thurwieser with Georg Lechner, Vitus Hotter, Anton Wechselberger | |
| Normal way | Southeast ridge ( I ) | |
The Great Mörchner is a 3285 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Zillertal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol . Due to its exposed location, surrounded by glaciers and two kilometers from the main ridge of the Zillertal, the Felsenberg has a large geographical dominance , which makes it a scenic mountain that is often climbed. To the northeast to the Floitengrund , it has steep cliffs up to 800 meters high.
Location and surroundings
The mountain is just under two kilometers as the crow flies southwest of the Floitengrund valley head. The conical summit structure is surrounded by glaciers . In the east to south lies the Floitenkees , in the south to west the Schwarzensteinkees and in the northwest the small Mörchnerkees . In the immediate vicinity, separated by the Mörchenschneidscharte , lies the Kleine Mörchner to the northwest at an altitude of 3198 m . Other neighboring peaks are Gigalitz ( 3001 m ) in the northeast, five kilometers away , the Großer Löffler ( 3,379 m ) in the east , the Zillertal main ridge with the Schwarzenstein ( 3,369 m ) in the south, separated by the glaciated Schwarzenstein saddle, and finally the in the southwest Horn tips with I. , II. And III. Hornspitze .
First ascent
The Großer Mörchner was first climbed on August 19, 1846 by the alpinist and theologian Karl Thurwieser and his companion Georg Lechner, Vitus Hotter and Anton Wechselberger. Their way led from the Zemmgrund over the Schwarzensteinalm and the northern Schwarzensteinkees through brittle rock and over clay-covered, slippery slabs to the summit. Thurwieser lamented the fog so that no prospect was possible. The descent took place on the same route back to the Granatenhütte , a non-existent mineral seeker accommodation near today's Berliner Hütte .
Base and easiest ascent
Today's normal route , the easiest ascent, on the Großer Mörchner leads over glaciers and must therefore be undertaken as a high-altitude tour with appropriate equipment. The ascent is from the Schwarzensteinhütte ( 3026 m ). The hut can be reached from Luttach in the Ahrntal Valley. From the hut the route runs in a north-westerly direction up to the Schwarzenstein saddle ( 3131 m ). According to the literature, it continues with easy climbing (UIAA grade I) over the southeast ridge to the summit. According to the literature, the walking time is one and a half hours. The Große Mörchner can also be reached from the Berliner Hütte via this route in four hours.
Literature and map
- Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/2, Zillertal Alps, center
Individual evidence
- ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Großer Mörchner on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ^ Karl Thurwieser in the magazine: Tourist , Volume 13, No. 7, Vienna 1881, p. 3
- ^ Carl Diener in Eduard Richter : The Development of the Eastern Alps , Volume III, Berlin 1894, p. 52 ff.
- ^ Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen , Munich 1996, p. 312 f., Rz 1605ff.
