III. Hornspitze

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III. Hornspitze
III. Hornspitze (left) and IV. Hornspitze seen from the west

III. Hornspitze (left) and IV. Hornspitze seen from the west

height 3254  m above sea level A.
location Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Zillertal Alps
Dominance 2.1 km →  Schwarzenstein
Notch height 234 m ↓  Schwarzenbachscharte
Coordinates 47 ° 0 '9 "  N , 11 ° 50' 40"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 0 '9 "  N , 11 ° 50' 40"  E
III. Hornspitze (Tyrol)
III. Hornspitze
rock Central gneiss
First ascent September 4, 1874 by Karl and Josef Daimer , led by Stephan Kirchler
Normal way Southwest Ridge ( II )

The III. Hornspitze (also Highest Hornspitze and Berlin Peak ) is a 3254  m above sea level. A. high mountain in the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps . As the highest of the Horn peaks, it is located a little north of the state border between Austria ( Tyrol ) and Italy ( South Tyrol ) and forms the highest point of the approximately 2.5 km long Horn ridge, which runs from northwest to southeast from the Zillertal Zemmgrund , as a side ridge of the Zillertal main ridge.

First the III. Hornspitze in 1874 by the mountain guide Stephan Kirchler and the doctor Josef Daimer and his brother Karl, both from Sand in Taufers . The name "Berliner Spitze" had been in use since the 1880s among the mountain guides working in the vicinity of the Berliner Hut . The name was not undisputed, as it was feared Prussian dominance.

Location and surroundings

The Hornrücke is a good eight kilometers as the crow flies northwest of the Ahrntal and 11 kilometers south-southeast of Ginzling , a district of the municipality of Mayrhofen . It divides the two troughs of the Hornkees glacier in the southwest and Schwarzensteinkees in the northeast. The small Mitterbachkees firn field is also located south of the main ridge . All the glaciers in the area are rapidly dwindling due to global warming . Neighboring peaks of the Berliner Spitze are the other Hornspitze, especially the II. Hornspitze , which is located directly on the main ridge. Along this ridge lie further in the north-east of the black stone with 3369  m height and in the southwest of 3420  m high Turnerkamp . There is no significant summit on the Horn ridge; the Vorsporn culminating at 2,647 m is called Am Horn .

Bases and routes

As a starting point for an inspection of the III. Hornspitze from the north-west serves the Berliner Hütte, located at 2042  m altitude. From the hut, the path initially leads in a south-easterly direction along the Am Horn . Then over the Hornkees glacier (equipment required for high-altitude tours ) to Mitterbachjoch at an altitude of 3130 meters. Then to the left northeast over firn to the rocky summit in, according to literature, moderately difficult climbing in UIAA grade II over large blocks to the summit. According to the literature, the walking time is around four hours. From the south, the Berliner Spitze 'can be climbed from Weißenbach in the Ahrntal via the Stabeler-Weg as part of a crossing to the Berliner Hütte as an alpine tour in - according to literature - around nine hours from the Mitterbachjoch.

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : III. Hornspitze  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Clem Clements, Jonathan de Ferranti, Eberhard Jurgalski , Mark Trengove: The 3000 m SUMMITS of AUSTRIA - 242 peaks with at least 150 m of prominence , October 2011, p. 13.
  2. ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: III. Hornspitze on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  3. ^ Journal of the German and Austrian Alpine Association , year 1875, Volume VI, 2nd department, Munich 1875, p. 31 ff.
  4. ↑ Communications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , No. 9, Munich 1886, p. 103.
  5. ↑ H. Klier, W. Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen , 1996, pp. 276 f., Rz 1355 ff.