Schwarzenstein (Zillertal Alps)
| Schwarzenstein | ||
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 Right outside the Schwarzenstein, in front the Neumelans residence and Taufers Castle . |
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| height | 3369 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria and South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Zillertal Alps | |
| Dominance | 4 km → Großer Löffler | |
| Notch height | 341 m ↓ Tribbach saddle | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 0 '38 " N , 11 ° 52' 28" E | |
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| First ascent | August 1852 as part of the land survey from the south by a lieutenant Langner | |
The Schwarzenstein ( Italian Sasso Nero ) is 3369 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps . The border between the Italian province of South Tyrol and the Austrian state of Tyrol runs over it .
Location and surroundings
The Schwarzenstein sends ridges to the northeast, south and northwest, the Schwarzenstein south ridge runs southeast into the Ahrntal . There are extensive glacier areas between the ridges. In the north lies the flat nutrient area of the Floitenkees , in the southeast the steep Rotbachkees , in the southwest the Schwarzenbachkees and in the northwest the Schwarzensteinkees . Neighboring peaks are in the north, separated by the firn-covered Schwarzenstein saddle, the Große Mörchner ( 3283 m ), in the northeast the Westliche Floitenspitze ( 3195 m ) and the Großer Löffler ( 3376 m ). In the south-west, separated by the Schwarzenbachscharte, are the Hornspitzen ( III. Hornspitze , also Berliner Spitze , 3254 m ).
First ascent
The first ascent, which has been handed down, took place in August 1852 as part of the national survey. Under the leadership of Lieutenant Langner, the ascent was made from Luttach in the Ahrntal valley from the south . The first tourist ascent took place on August 31, 1858 from the north through the Floitengrund from Ginzling . The mountain guide Georg Samer led a group of tourists consisting of Anton von Ruthner , Josef Daum and Ludwig von Barth .
Bases and tours
Due to its glaciated flanks, the Schwarzenstein should only be climbed as an alpine tour with appropriate equipment and experience. The easiest ascent ( normal route ) follows the path of the first climber from the Schwarzensteinhütte ( Rifugio Vittorio Veneto , 3026 m ). The way to this hut leads up from Luttach in the Ahrntal valley. From the hut it takes 1½ hours over the crevasse Rotbachkees west over the northeast ridge in, according to literature, easy climbing (UIAA I) to the mostly aperen summit. The Schwarzenstein is also often crossed from the Berliner Hut (in 5 hours) and the Greizer Hut (in 4 hours).
Schwarzenstein transmitter
The South Tyrolean side was used from the 1980s to 1993 as a transmitter location for the private VHF radio station Radio M1 and Radio Brenner . The ranges from here were very high. In addition to South Tyrol, Tyrol, Salzburg and Upper Austria, the south of Bavaria was also reached. When the weather was good, there were also reception reports from central Germany and even from Sweden (here presumably in the case of overreaches).
Literature and map
- Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
- Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3000m peaks in South Tyrol. 70 worthwhile alpine tours. Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/2, Zillertal Alps, center
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ^ Carl Diener in Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 48
- ^ Anton von Ruthner: From Tirol, Mountain and Glacier Travel , Vienna 1869, p. 15 ff.
- ^ Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen , Munich 1996, pp. 278 ff., Rz 1370 ff.
- ↑ Peter Faust: Strong sounds from South Tyrol to Bavaria ... RADIO M1 simply unmistakable! In: RADIOJournal 1/1999. January 1999, archived from the original on October 22, 2009 ; Retrieved July 17, 2014 .