Heuriger

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In Austria, heuriger refers to the location where wine is served. Buschenschank , also known as Buschenschenke ( -schänke ), is a temporary serving of local drinks, young and old wine, but also cider , less often beer and schnapps , then also called Hofschank . The corresponding serving of milk on alpine pastures / Alps is the Almausschank . The latter three are also available in South Tyrol . It can therefore be a Buschenschank as a seasonally limited bar of the producing company or a hospitality business run as a Heuriger : Buschenschank and the like are direct marketing in agriculture, other Heurigen business a hospitality industry .

The right of winemakers (in Austria the term for winemakers ) to serve home-made wine in their own house without a special license, and accordingly for cider and beer producers, goes back in Austria to a circular ordinance issued by Emperor Joseph II in 1784. The Heurige was originally held to present the storm and the wine of the current harvest to the farmers and the population of the place and the immediate vicinity . A second annual appointment was common to make room in the barrels for the coming vintage.

The Buschenschank also has its counterpart elsewhere, see section Similar bars outside Austria below.

Buschenschankzeichen - straw wreath - in Lower Austria (Krems).

history

The time when this type of self-marketing came about can hardly be determined. Probably goes the tradition of winemakers, and pour out even vinified wine itself, to the Franconia and Bavaria under Charlemagne and Otto I returned. In particular, the product derived from the Frankish and Bavarian region Capitulare de villis ( Kapitular for the crown lands and Empire yards ) from 795 contain detailed information on viticulture , wine cultivation and wine law . It also held up when the liquor law (jug law) was strictly regulated in the course of the Middle Ages and early modern times.

On August 17, 1784 by Emperor Joseph II. A circular Regulation , which suspended anyone the permission given was even made Laben means ( food ), wine and fruit wine for sale at all times and pour out. The occasion was complaints from the landlords of an insignificant place in the county of Gorizia , who refused to allow their master, Count Delmetri , to force them to exclusively serve his wine.

These regulations were renewed in 1845 by a court chancellery secretary. In order to simplify controls by the authorities, such a serving became notifiable in 1883 .

In the meantime, this special right is regulated by Section 11 of the  Trade Regulations and by the similar Buschenschank laws of the federal states of Vienna , Lower Austria , Burgenland , Styria and Carinthia .

In the beginning, only bread and nuts were often offered in addition to wine. Even in the 1960s it was a matter of course to bring your own food to the Heuriger, because smaller establishments only offered a very modest selection of dishes (or none at all). It is still allowed today.

Demarcation

Buschenschank

The Buschenschank is a business where a farmer is allowed to pour and serve his products (drinks and cold dishes).

Only owners or tenants of vineyards or orchards are allowed to operate a tavern. Today, Buschenschanken in Austria are primarily operated in the federal states of Vienna , Lower Austria , Burgenland , Carinthia and Styria , as well as Upper Austria . Each of these federal states has its own Buschenschank Act, which regulates opening times, names and the offer, except for Upper Austria, where this is regulated by ordinances.

A farmer indicates the opening period by clearly "unplugging" the Buschenschank symbol in the form of a bush (a tuft of twigs or bundle of rice) above the entrance - hence the name Buschenschank and the saying "unplugged is'!" For the opening time : In linguistic usage it says: "[There-and-there] is' unplugged" or "XY has unplugged since last weekend." When the season is over or the supply is sold, the bush is "moved in" again. In wine taverns and must areas, there are usually agreements about who unplugs and when, so that on the one hand the landlords can work more economically (because they compete less with each other) and on the other hand the season is extended, making the place more attractive for visitors.

The farmer is allowed to offer drinks in the Buschenschank that come from his own production (or are bought from farms). These include wine, storm, grape must and grape juice, fruit wine and fruit must as well as self-distilled spirits. Only cold dishes and homemade pastries may be served. In Vienna, for example, the relevant part of the aforementioned law reads:

“Buschenschenkern also serves all local sausages and cheeses, ham and smoked meat, bacon, cold meat and cold poultry, sardines, anchovy rings and rollmops, salads, pickled vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, spreads of all kinds, butter and lard, greens , Salted almonds and peanuts, wine pastries such as wine bites, potato slices and salty pastries, bread and pastries as well as local fruit and vegetables are permitted with the exclusion of all warm dishes. "

- Section 10 (2) of the Vienna Buschenschank Act

The typical Buschenschank dish is the Brettljause . It typically consists of cold cuts (for example smoked meat, roast pork, ham, dry sausage, bacon, sirloin, smoked sausage) and spreads (such as minced meat, liver spread, gram fat, frying fat, pumpkin seed spread) with horseradish and black bread and is served on a "wooden board" .

If, on the other hand, the operator also registers a free hospitality trade with the Buschenschank , he may serve certain warm products such as grilled sausages, meat and poultry, meat and sausage salads as well as bottled beer and non-alcoholic drinks without a certificate of qualification. However, the company is then no longer allowed to use the name “Buschenschank”.

In some areas it is still common to bring your own food, so wine taverns are used for celebrations in family circles, where the keepers only take care of the drinks and the party for the food. This is especially true where the guests generally pay for the drinks themselves at parties.

Heuriger

Former "Hietzinger Heuriger" restaurant in Hietzing

The word “Heuriger” is derived from the southern German term “heuer”, which in turn goes back to the old high German hiu jāru (“this year”). You go to the Heuriger, sit at the Heuriger and drink the Heuriger , the young wine (also: Sturm, Staubiger ).

The term "Heuriger" for a bar is very common in Eastern Austria, but not protected or defined by law (the law only recognizes the Buschenschank and this year's wine ). Therefore, every hospitality company can name its restaurant as it sees fit and can sell anything that its hospitality license allows. In practice, in order to run a so-called Heurigen buffet , the different legal bases of trade regulations (GO; for the buffet as a hospitality industry) and § 111 GO and the respective Buschenschankgesetz (for serving as part of the winegrowing business) can both be side by side on the same premises Forms are guided. The legal separation is achieved by two people (usually two family members). In Vienna , in particular, there are many such bars that are more tailored to tourism and are often referred to as Heurigen restaurants and Stadtheuriger . Tourist magnets of this kind with customers from (perhaps only supposedly) “upscale” stands and with (certainly) upscale prices are popularly known as a little disparagingly high-end heuriger in order to distinguish them from the popular businesses that everyone likes to visit.

"Real Heuriger" as a wine tavern must be "in a Heurigen area" and "on the premises of the respective Hauer intended for agricultural use" and are only operated seasonally. Such Heurige in the legal sense are subject to the corresponding state law, in Vienna for example the Vienna Buschenschankgesetz and accordingly do not need a hospitality license . On the other hand, this relief (in relation to inns) is countered by restrictions on the food and drink offer.

Many wine taverns illuminate the bush with a lantern in which a candle or kerosene lamp burned in earlier times (today, logically, a - mostly green - light bulb). Because the lantern was extinguished as soon as the restaurant closed, the now somewhat outdated Viennese expressions Laterndler for drinkers and drunks (who only went home when the lantern was extinguished), and Laterndeln for a real treat, arose . Often in Heurigen places an artistically forged structure is set up in a prominent place, the Rauschbaum , into which the individual Heuriger inserts his own small table in a frame as long as he has "unplugged". In many wine taverns there are also calendars in wallet format that show the opening times of the individual establishments.

Wine bar

For the purpose of more profitable marketing, in some places a cooperative runs a pub that the individual winemakers lease for a few weeks a year. Usually such restaurants are called Winzerstube.

Mostheuriger (Mostbuschenschank)

A Heuriger that is not wine, but apple or pear most ausschenkt called Mostheuriger respectively Most tavern - depending on whether one is in an area with a traditional wine-growing or not. These can be found in the traditional fruit-growing areas in western Lower and Upper Austria, in the Mostviertel along Moststrasse , in the Vienna Woods , but also in the Bucklige Welt (in southern Lower Austria), and in the Traun and Innviertel , as well as in parts of Styria and in Carinthia.

Bierbuschenschank (Bierheuriger)

In the beer areas, especially Upper Austria , but increasingly also East and South Austria, beer is also served in the Buschenschänken . This form is relatively rare because the brewers restaurant owners (usually brewing inns ) were specialized or breweries with its own tap. With the resurgence of local special beers in the context of regionalization and self-marketing from the farm, the Bierbuschenschank is also being operated more frequently again. Since the serving of beer explicitly does not fall under the concept of the Buschenschank, but the condition for free trade is only related to “beer in commercially available closed vessels” (commodity), there is an intermediate area for beer from farm-gate production.

Hofschank

In non-wine and must-growing areas, where bushing out is also unusual, the Buschenschank is usually called Hofschank or Hofschänke . It represents a wine tavern in the sense of the law, in addition to the Brettljause from own products and similar, mostly bought wines and musts from the classic wine and fruit-growing regions of Austria are offered. Typically, there are direct contractual contacts between two farmers, where only products from a specific wine or cider grower are offered.

Almausschank

The corresponding operation on Almen / Alpn is called Almausschank. It is limited to the Bealpungszeiten and does not fall under the Buschenschank regulations, but is - like this - as a further general agricultural sideline activity . The main drink from our own production is milk . Otherwise, the regulations with regard to self-produced food and drinks are mostly relatively similar, but for example "local, bottled drinks" may also be served and certain warm dishes may be served.

Similar bars outside of Austria

Buschenschank in Tramin (South Tyrol)

Derived directly from the Josephine Laws:

  • Wine and farm taverns in South Tyrol , mainly in the wine-growing regions that are open during autumn ( Törggelen ) .
  • In Friuli Venezia Giulia (Italy); in Friuli it is called frasca (branch, bush) and privada (private bar ). In the former Austrian areas on the Triester and Görzer Karst, also in Slovenia, the Buschenschank is called osmiza (Slovenian osmica , derived from osem 'eight', as the concession was originally limited to eight days)

In other German-speaking wine-growing regions these are for example:

  • Ostrich or broom economy in the Palatinate, Rheinhessen and Rheingau (both names, like Buschenschank, are derived from the bush hanging in front of the door).
  • Hedge economy in Franconia (from Häcker 'Winzer')
  • Zoigl is a tradition similar to the Heuriger with beer consumption in the northern Upper Palatinate

Web links

Wiktionary: Heuriger  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

historical:

Individual evidence

  1. Joseph II on buschenschank.at
  2. a b Decrees Ge-060051 / 33-1996 / Pö / Ra of October 22, 1996 and GE-060051 / 45-1997 / Pö / Ra of March 27, 1997;
    Eva Radlgruber: Rural cider tavern - hospitality.  (
    Page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Toter Link / ooe.lko.at   Information brochure, Chamber of Agriculture Upper Austria, status: May 2013 (PDF, accessed February 12, 2016).
  3. Cf. § 6, Paragraph 2 of the Vienna Buschenschankgesetz: "(2) The Buschenschankzeichen must consist of a pine, fir or spruce bush."
  4. Peter Wehle: Do you speak Viennese? From Adaxl to Zwutschkerl , Ueberreuter 1980, page 29.
  5. See Buschenschank and Heurigen buffet. In: News archive of the Wittmann tax consultancy, February 23, 2010. Retrieved on August 25, 2012.
  6. See § 4 Vienna Buschenschankgesetz.
  7. Vienna Buschenschankgesetz (as amended online, wien.gv.at).
  8. See § 4 Paragraph 2 Vienna Buschenschankgesetz.
  9. a b Buschenschank or Hofschank? ( Memento of the original from February 12, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Südtirol.info: Törggelen - description applies largely analogously to more western Austria.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.suedtirol.info
  10. a b Almausschank as a secondary agricultural activity. ( Memento of the original from February 12, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Salzburg Chamber of Agriculture, August 8, 2012 (accessed February 12, 2016).  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / sbg.lko.at
  11. Secondary activities: processing, wine tavern, alpine tavern, vacation on the farm. ( Memento of the original from February 12, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.svb.at archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Farmers Social Insurance Institution (accessed February 12, 2016; link to information brochure).