Kostio de War

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Lyska Kostio de Warkoffska , also Lyska Kostio (born April 20, 1896 in Baku , Russian Empire , today Azerbaijan ; † March 13, 1986 in Boulogne-Billancourt , France ), was a French actress and fashion designer . In 1935 she founded the Kostio de War fashion house in Paris , which specialized in high quality knitwear and crochet goods.

Life

Mlle. Lyska Kostio with her doll collection in Paris (article in The Sun , New York, July 26, 1914)
Newspaper advertisement for the first boutique on Rue Jean-Goujon, Paris (advertisement in Le Figaro (since 1826 as a satirical paper, since 1866 as a daily newspaper) , issue of August 3, 1935)

Lyska Kostio de Warkoffska was the daughter of Serge de Warkoffska and Pétronille Geluyckens. By 1913, "the little Baroness" was ( French la petite baronne ) , the "very pretty Russian woman" ( French fort jolie russe ) or Mlle Lyska Kostio how they called until 1918, by actress Louise balthy in the Paris high society of Belle Époque introduced. On February 4, 1914, she made her debut at the Théâtre Michel, which is still today at 38, rue des Mathurins. In the revue La Sans-Gene by Robert Dieudonné and René Bussy she played alongside Balthy the role of Lisoy . The revue saw over 20 performances. A year earlier she had already attracted attention by exercising with the future film actress Jacqueline Forzane on the strolling walk of the "belly forward, umbrella under my arm"  ( French ventre en avant et du parapluie sous le bras ) on the promenade of Deauville .

In an edition of the newspaper The Sun of New York , a published photograph , showing her with her doll collection, with which they also presented regularly in public. She was also called the Queen of Tango who had the walls of her apartment on Avenue du Bois torn down to create a large dance hall. When the general mobilization was ordered at the beginning of August 1914 , her dance hall was transformed into a hospital , where she and her servants cared for war convalescents between painted panels by Leon Bakst . Their daughter Vanina was born on June 2, 1919. Five years later, on July 30, 1924, the engagement to Baron Jehan de Tinan Neyevelt was announced in the Paris daily newspaper Le Figaro , but it was not until November 4, 1940 that he married Christian Charles Raymond Aymar de Rivals-Mazères in Cannes , a descendant of Jean Racine . There were no children from this marriage.

In mid-1935, she opened her first fashion shop under the name Kostio de War at 18, rue Jean-Goujon in the 8th arrondissement of Paris . In an advertisement by Figaro, she advertised knitwear, couture, sportswear and furs ( French trickots, couture, sports, fourrures ) . In 1938 the shop moved to 108, rue Lauriston, in the 16th arrondissement . In the same year she separates from the Société de War. Her daughter Vanina began to draw attention to herself with her own creations and took over the shop on Rue Jean Goujon.

Kostio de War designed the costumes for actresses Simone Renant, Betty Daussmond, Jany Holt and Germaine Bréty. The play Baignoir B ou Toute la vérité by Maurice Diamant Berger was performed in the Théâtre de Marigny in the spring of 1939.

For the leading actor Marcel Dalio in Jean Renoir's film The Rules of the Game from 1939, she designed the wardrobe, including a tight-fitting jacket with a back strap.

During the German occupation, she stayed on the Côte d'Azur and in Biarritz on the Atlantic coast. She organized fashion shows with fashion houses such as Worth, Heim and Henry à la Pensée, for example in the casino in Cannes. After the liberation of Paris at the end of August 1944, Kostio de Wars's fashion store moved to the 5th floor of a residential building on 14, rue Clement-Marot in the 8th arrondissement.

In 1952 she worked as a dressmaker for the film The Secret Letter (Lettre ouverte) by Alex Joffé .

Until her death, her last boutique was on avenue Marceau , which connects the 8th and 16th arrondissements.

Kostio de War died on March 13, 1986 at the age of 89 at the Hôpital Ambroise-Paré in Boulogne-Billancourt .

Create

Her collections exude ingenuity and love for small details. She combined her knitted or crocheted models with unusual components, which made her collections stand out from those of other fashion designers.

"Le tricot a depuis longtemps conquis ses titres de noblesse, et son élégance ne fait que croître lorsqu'il est traité par Kostio de War. »

"The knitwear has long been raised to the nobility, and it gains in elegance when it comes from the hand of Kostio de War."

- Comtesse de S.

“Une broderie or et bleu (un pot de tulipes) fait à la fois poches et ornement très raffiné. Boutons de métal or, écharpe de fils d'or ... C'est jeune, Classic et très personnelle ... Ces qualités, tous les costumes de Mme Kostio de War les contiennent. »

“A gold-blue embroidery (a pot with tulips) formed both pockets and a very elegant ornament. Buttons made of gold metal, scarf made of gold thread ... It is young, classic and very personal ... These are features that can be found in every costume by Ms. Kostio de War. "

- Lucien Lelong

This is how tight-fitting evening dresses were created, made of gold or silver yarn. Depending on the cut and material, these models exuded the glittering grace of a mermaid or the glowing fearlessness of a Jeanne d'Arc . Such an evening gown still exists today in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London . A simpler copy made of copper thread is in the collections of the Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris.

“Et des robes du soir, tricots de soie, mêlés à l'or ou l'argent, robes très simples, mais néanmoins d'aspect presque féerique. L'on se penche pour voir de près, pour palper la matière ... on hésite ... on hésite, et l'on est forcé de se rendre à l'évidence: ce miracle, c'est simplement du tricot. »

“And evening dresses, made of knitted silk, mixed with gold or silver, very simple dresses, but still with a fairy look. You bend down to look closely, to feel the material ... you hesitate ... you continue to hesitate, and you are forced to face the obvious: this miracle is just knitted. "

- Denise Veber

But tuxedos , jackets , hats , scarves and caps , sportswear for cyclists, swimwear and gloves were also part of their collections. At the beginning of 1937 Kostio de War found a small album with knitting patterns from 1830, which she picked up and incorporated into the design of her own patterns . Their models and accessories were hand-knitted or crocheted, and the surfaces of the material used for coats and jackets could be finely knitted to look like woven fabric. Her collections have been published in various fashion magazines such as Officiel de la Mode , Elle , Marianne , Femina , Excelsior and Vogue .

The models in their collections were photographed by photo studios such as Studio Franz, Studio Juliette Lasserre, Studio Waroline or Studio Anzon. There are also recordings of Dora Maar and Jean Moral. From Madame d'Ora exist not only fashion photography, but also a number of portraits.

Kostio de Wars' companions, who shaped Parisian fashion between 1930 and 1950, included fashion designers such as Anny Blatt, Elsa Schiaparelli , Vera Borea, Lola Prusac , Jean Patou , as well as Coco Chanel , Jeanne Lanvin , Marcel Rochas , Roger Worth and Jacques Heim. Her customers and wearers of her models included Gary Cooper , Greta Garbo , Yves Montand , Jean Marais , Louis Jouvet , Claude Dauphin , Annabella and Suzy Solidor .

In 2017 the Maison de War was reopened by Kostio de Wars great-granddaughter Sayana Gonzalez.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c Archives de Paris, Decès 1986. In: archives.paris.fr. Retrieved on June 4, 2020 (French, Paris death register, entry no. 498, p. 3).
  2. ↑ Gil Blas / you. A. Dumont. January 23, 1914, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  3. ↑ Gil Blas / you. A. Dumont. February 3, 1914, p. 5 , accessed on May 26, 2020 (French).
  4. ↑ Paris-midi: seul journal quotidien paraissant à midi / dir. Maurice de Waleffe. February 4, 1914, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  5. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. February 5, 1914, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  6. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. February 21, 1914, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  7. ↑ Comoedia / rédacteur en chef Gaston de Pawlowski. October 2, 1923, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  8. ^ National Endowment for the Humanities: The sun. [volume] (New York [NY]) 1833-1916, July 26, 1914, FOURTH SECTION PICTORIAL MAGAZINE, Image 37 . July 26, 1914, ISSN  1940-7831 , p. 3 ( loc.gov [accessed on May 26, 2020]).
  9. ↑ a b c Excelsior: journal illustré quotidien: informations, littérature, sciences, arts, sports, théâtre, élégances. July 9, 1916, p. 2 , accessed May 26, 2020 (frE).
  10. ↑ Estado Argentino: Boletín Oficial de la República Argentina. 1977 2da sección . January 12, 1977 (Spanish, online [accessed May 26, 2020]).
  11. ^ Elle: l'hebdomadaire de la femme: tous les mercredis / rédacteur en chef Hélène Gordon-Lazareff. November 26, 1946, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  12. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. July 30, 1924, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  13. ^ Arnaud Chaffanjon: Jean Racine et sa descendance . Les Seize, Paris 1964, p. 227 (French, limited preview in Google Book search).
  14. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. August 3, 1935, accessed May 26, 2020 (French).
  15. ↑ Le Jour 17 December 1938. Retrieved May 26, 2020 (French).
  16. ↑ L'Homme libre: journal quotidien du matin. April 18, 1939, p. 4 , accessed June 6, 2020 (French).
  17. ↑ grand hebdomadaire parisien et littéraire ["puis" littéraire et parisien] . In: Candide . No. 700 , February 22, 1939, p. 3 (French, online [accessed June 23, 2020]).
  18. ↑ Le Temps. June 27, 1942, p. 2 , accessed June 21, 2020 (French).
  19. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. July 9, 1942, accessed June 21, 2020 .
  20. ^ Media History Digital Library: La Cinématographie Française (Jul-Dec 1952) . Paris, 1952, p. 388 (French, online [accessed May 27, 2020]).
  21. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. August 18, 1938, p. 7 , accessed on May 26, 2020 (French).
  22. ↑ Figaro: journal non politique. March 9, 1939, accessed June 14, 2020 (French).
  23. ↑ ensemble 4 pieces. Retrieved June 18, 2020 (French).
  24. ^ Marianne: grand hebdomadaire littéraire illustré. February 23, 1938, retrieved May 26, 2020 (French).
  25. ^ Paris-soir. October 17, 1937, accessed on May 26, 2020 (French).
  26. ^ Rester jeune. August 1936, p. 38 , accessed on May 28, 2020 (French).
  27. ↑ Ensemble Kostio de War | Paris museums. Retrieved May 28, 2020 .
  28. ^ Paris-soir. October 17, 1937, accessed June 4, 2020 .
  29. ↑ Das Leben, 3.1925 / 26, H. 12, Juni = 36. Retrieved May 28, 2020 .
  30. ↑ Paris-presse, L'Intransigeant December 17, 1948. Retrieved on June 3, 2020 (French).
  31. ↑ Carrefour 23 June 1948. Retrieved June 3, 2020 (French).
  32. ^ L'Aurore: organe de la résistance républicaine. October 21, 1948, p. 2 , accessed June 3, 2020 (French).
  33. ↑ deWAR. Retrieved June 3, 2020 .
personal data
SURNAME De War, Kostio
ALTERNATIVE NAMES De Warkoffska, Lyska Kostio (maiden name); Lyska Kostio (stage name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French actress and fashion designer, founder of the Kostio de War fashion house
DATE OF BIRTH April 20, 1896
PLACE OF BIRTH Baku , Russian Empire
DATE OF DEATH March 13, 1986
Place of death Boulogne-Billancourt , France