pumpernickel
Pumpernickel is a wholemeal bread made from rye meal that originally comes from Westphalian cuisine . It has a long shelf life. In the Bergisches Land they say black bread . Abroad, pumpernickel is considered typical German bread.
Manufacturing
According to the original recipe, Pumpernickel consists exclusively of grist and whole grains of rye . The whole grains are swollen overnight in lukewarm water ( spring piece ) or for a few hours in hot water ( stock piece ). This is necessary so that the dense grains can be baked.
In specialized companies, pumpernickel is placed in closed boxes in steam baking chambers after a short cooking time and baked with steam at approx. 100 ° C for at least 16 hours.
It is difficult for conventional bakeries to produce pumpernickel in day-to-day business with this method, as the oven is blocked for one day and one night. At most, Pumpernickel can be baked at night on public holidays or on Sundays, which means that Sunday and public holiday work is necessary. So another process was developed that reduces the baking time to 16 hours. The dough is baked in closed boxes at 200 ° C and then steamed rather than baked for 16 to 24 hours when the temperature drops to 100 ° C. This long baking time is necessary because the heat can only penetrate and cook slowly due to the high density of the leavened bread. The bread can be pushed around noon and removed the next morning when work starts, after which the oven can be brought back to higher temperatures for day-to-day business. In this shortened process, sourdough and / or yeast are added. The loosening enables the heat to penetrate quickly into the interior of the baked goods, which reduces the baking time.
According to the guiding principles for bread and biscuits of the German Food Book, the following applies:
- Pumpernickel is made from at least 90 percent baked rye meal and / or whole grain rye meal.
- If pumpernickel is made from whole grain meal, at least two thirds of the acid added comes from sourdough.
- The baking time must be at least 16 hours.
Color formation and taste
According to common doctrine, the Maillard reaction is responsible for the color and aroma of the pumpernickel. A caramelization , as the brown color suggests, does not take place because the temperature is not high enough for this and there is still too much water in the dough.
Although essential enzymes are deactivated by the scalding of the whole grains , the mass of the un-scalded grains is sufficient for active biochemical activities. The temperature profile of the baking process, in which the heat reaches the baked good from the outside very slowly, is the basis for a variety of enzymatic reactions.
The saccharification of the starch takes effect due to the typical temperature profile . The color is created by enzymatic processes and is characterized by the Maillard reaction, the effect of which is more pronounced due to acids. The low temperatures also support the coloring and flavor formation through the Maillard reaction.
The consistency is very compact, moist and a little brittle. The crust formation is insignificant thanks to the low baking temperature. Pumpernickel is often offered packaged as sliced bread. They are dark and juicy breads that are easily digestible.
Pumpernickel has an extraordinarily long shelf life: it will keep for several months when it is welded, and up to two years in cans .
Sweet variant
In addition to the preparation from rye meal, there is a sweet gingerbread-like variant, which is also known as pumpernickel, pompernickel or "pain noir de Westphalie".
use
Pumpernickel, like other breads, is usually eaten directly as an accompaniment to other dishes or as a basis for sandwiches . In addition, there are several dishes in Westphalian cuisine that are prepared with pumpernickel. These include the pumpernickel soup and the Westphalian jelly . Pumpernickel is also a component of sauces such as the classic sauerbrat sauce .
Cultural history
Probably the oldest still existing bakery for Pumpernickel is the Haverland bakery founded by Jörgen Haverlanth in Soest in 1570 , which was family-owned until 2007. Soest was almost completely surrounded by foreign territory and was often besieged for a very long time in the Middle Ages . At that time the pumpernickel is said to have served the citizens as an emergency ration. The mercenary Peter Hagendorf describes in his war records how he got to know a bread called Pumpernickel in Lippstadt in 1630 and describes the production in detail. He praises the bread as very good bread . According to Johann Christoph Adelung , the term Pumpernickel was not in use in Westphalia itself. In 1793, he wrote that the Westphalians called it coarse bread or black bread.
etymology
The origin of the word cannot be determined with certainty. The term Pumpernickel has been used in this spelling by Peter Hagendorf since 1630, but his records were only found in 1988 by the historian Jan Peters and therefore have no history of reception. Johann Balthasar Schupp mentions a Bompurnickel in his Instructive Writings from 1677:
"Like the old Bompurnickel, of which the old German
soldier sang : Bompurnickel has come back and has tied his shoes with raffia."
The word means a coarse, chunky person and is then a combination of "pumping" = dull sound with impact, knocking, falling etc. and of "nickel", weakening and abbreviation of "Nikolaus".
The expression “One sings the Pumpernickel in the Weisskirche”, which refers to the town of Weissenburg , which lies on the border between Alsace and Palatinate, points in a similar direction . From the former Weisskirche, of which it was said in the proverb that they sang the Pumpernickel in it, a city theater and a beer brewery Zur Weisskirche were later set up , the latter provided with the symbol of the city, the Pumpernickel, the stone image of a groom with foolish Knittel verse and the The year 1717. The old tower from the 11th century still stands in front of the Gothic church in Weissenburg.
The expression “I bet for that nit der Pumperniggel singe” comes from Solothurn in Switzerland , when one wanted to express that a matter is not worth the slightest effort. The Pumpernickel is probably a crude, mob-like folk song.
According to another interpretation, the word Pumpernickel is also said to mean farting Nicholas and was originally a dirty word for a coarse brat. Pumper referred Sauerland a flatulence , in this context, this is probably a reference to the blähungsfördernde effect of whole grain bread. Similar to the etymology of cobalt, nickel is a name for a deceitful spirit or goblin and is translated for lone wolf or funny owl.
The cultural historian Hannsferdinand Döbler offers another interpretation : “The word 'Pumpernickel' [...] means ' devil '. In Hessian trial files on witchcraft from the years 1562–1633 the word 'Pompernickel' for the devil can be found several times, and it is certain that it was not used for bread at the beginning of the 17th century, i.e. shortly before the Thirty Years' War. "
After Hans Jakob Christoffel von Grimmelshausen spoke in his Simplizissimus of the Westphalian black bread made from rye as a hideous pumpernickel, this term is said to have only been used for bread. In fact, the word pumpernickel has been known as a derisive name for commissary bread or whole grain bread since the 17th century . Later, its use was limited to the Westphalian black bread, which was referred to with this term outside of Westphalia , while in Westphalia it was simply called black bread or coarse bread . Evidence for the mockery of the conspicuously dark bread comes from the Dutch humanist Justus Lipsius , who sneered in the 16th century: “What a poor people who have to eat their earth”. Lipsius, who mentioned black bread in mid-October 1586 in a letter from Emden to his friend Johannes Heurnius , did not stay in what is now Westphalia, but in what was then the Dutch-Westphalian Empire , to which Oldenburg and East Frisia belonged in the mid-16th century. So the Westphalian bread mentioned by Lipsius is black bread from the area between Oldenburg and Emden .
Pumpernickel finally achieved international fame under its former nickname. The fact that Pumpernickel was the inspiration behind the development of bread for the US Army in the 19th century probably played an important role in this. At that time, the Westphalian emigrant Anton Schütte introduced new field ovens, which made production possible.
Folk etymologies
According to a widespread legend, the name goes back to Napoléon Bonaparte's soldiers , who only declared Westphalian bread to be “bon pour nickel” - as just good enough for Napoleon's horse nickel. This story is demonstrably incorrect, as Johann Christoph Adelung already wrote about the origin of the name in the second edition of his dictionary in 1793, i.e. at a time when Napoleon was not yet in power. Adelung then continues:
“For the sake of this, it may be that this name has a joke in origin, and the most common opinion is that it comes from a French traveler who was passing through, who demanded bread in Westphalia, but when he saw it, said that it was bon pour nickel , since some add that his servant was called Nickel, while others understand the word Nickel to mean a little horse, see this word. But the whole derivation looks very much like a fairy tale, although it seemed important enough to some to change the whole spelling of the word, contrary to the most common pronunciation, and to write Bompernickel. "
According to another legend from Osnabrück , during a famine in the 15th century, a bread called bonum paniculum in Latin was baked at the city's expense, the name of which was popularly corrupted to pumpernickel. There is still a tower in Osnabrück called the Pernick Tower, in which the oven is said to have stood back then.
Pumpernickel was also called a fine pastry with almonds and lemon peel, which was baked in roll form, then cut up and baked again. The Latin name for this fine roll ( bonum paniculum ) was then twisted to pumpernickel.
According to a legend from Soest, the word Pumpernickel goes back to the Soester Nickel (a small coin) and the word pumpen (for lend or borrow).
Others
Pumpernickel is said to have a digestive effect. The Economic Encyclopedia by Johann Georg Krünitz from the 18th century mentions this effect and notes: “(...) if you consider that the Westphälinger, who is used to Pumpernickel, has to struggle with constant constipation as soon as he enjoys Saxon bread, and that his excrement then become tough and resemble the goat's killer: so one will not doubt the reliability of that beneficial effect, and one cannot avoid the wish that it should become a general custom, at least among those afflicted with hypochondriac symptoms, instead of the more refined Bread to use the pumpernickel. "
Pumpernickel in world literature and on the stage
The term Pumpernickel entered world literature as early as 1847 by the British novelist William Makepeace Thackeray (1811–1863). Thackeray leaves in his socially critical and satirical novel of the advanced to the dictum title Vanity Fair ( Vanity Fair ) feuding families on a typical for the 1830s English Romantic Rhine journey into the fictional am Rhein located "Grand Duchy of Pumpernickel" (Grand Duchy of pumpernickel) on Flow pump meet. Thackeray describes its rulers ("His Transparency ..."), court theater ("Royal Grand Ducal Pumpernickelisch Hof or Court Theater"), court balls, hotels, nobility, bourgeoisie, landscape, etc. from chap. LXII with the original heading "Am Rhein". Even before that, Thackeray ironically described the career of Father Crawley as an important diplomatist as attaché of the British legation at the court of Her Highness the Duchess of Pumpernickel (Chapters XXXIII, XL, XLIV, XLVII). English literary scholarship interprets the Grand Duchy of Pumpernickel as a satire on the Grand Duchy of Weimar, where Thackeray spent six months in 1830/31.
The Westphalian writer Josef Winckler (1881–1966) published a collection of Westphalian stories in 1925 under the title: Pumpernickel. People and stories around House Nyland. Stuttgart 1925 (several new editions to date).
Around 1811, Matthäus Stegmayer (1771–1820, kk court actor, libretto) and Ignaz Xaver von Seyfried (music) created a very popular "musical Quodlibet in three acts", called Rochus Pumpernickel . In the same year a sequel called The Pumpernickel Family came on the stage.
The British radio presenter and singer Chris Howland nicknamed himself Heinrich Pumpernickel , later also Mr. Pumpernickel.
Related types of bread
A bread comparable in production is the malt grain bread (or Simonsbrot).
The Icelandic variant is called Hverabrauð .
In North America, pumpernickel is a type of rye bread that is also dark and slightly sweet, but has significant differences to the Westphalian pumpernickel, especially in terms of baking process and density.
literature
- Th. Geßner: The Pumpernikel . In: The Gazebo . Issue 28, 1877, pp. 482 ( full text [ Wikisource ]).
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Josef Loderbauer: The baker's book in learning fields . Verlag Handwerk und Technik, Hamburg 2008, ISBN 978-3-582-40205-9 .
- ↑ Principles for bread and biscuits
- ↑ Pumpernickel . In: Food Lexicon Dr. Oetker . 4th edition. 2004.
- ↑ Belitz, Grosch, Schieberle: Textbook of food chemistry . Springer, 2007, ISBN 3-540-73201-2 .
- ^ Adolf Hess, Olga Hess, Viennese cuisine . Franz Deuticke, Leipzig / Vienna 1928, p. 498. A more recent edition is from 2001, ISBN 978-3-216-30609-8
- ↑ a b Karl Friedrich Wilhelm Wander (Ed.): Deutsches Sprich emphasis-Lexikon , Volume 3. Leipzig 1873, Sp. 1423-1424. zeno.org .
- ↑ Hannsferdinand Döbler: Kultur- und Sittengeschichte der Welt, Vol. 3: Kochkünste und Tafelfreuden , 1972, p. 91.
- ↑ Friedrich Kluge: Etymological Dictionary of the German Language , 24th edition, 2002.
- ↑ In a letter to a friend in 1586, the Flemish classicist Justus Lipsius wrote “Black, coarse and bitter to taste, it comes in clods, five feet in length, which an adult can barely lift with his own hands. It is, indeed, an impoverished people that is obliged to eat its own soil ” theanswerbank.co.uk .
- ^ Lipsius writes in his Epistola IX. (Embdae XVIII. Cal. Novemb. MD LXXXVI.) To Johannes Heurnius literally: Specto igitur & taceo, & buccellas aliquod panis frango. Atque utinam panis! Sed revera mi Heurni, si colorem, si pondus, si totam faciem vidisses: iuro tibi peierasses de pane. Aterali, gravis, acidus & formatus in massam quaternos aut quinos paene pedes longam, quam ego nec elevassem. Pliny mihi ibi in mente, qui de hac aut finitima gente scribit, Miseram eam quae terram ederet.
- ↑ Pumpernickel . In: Adelung, dictionary
- ↑ Pumpernickel . In: Meyers Konversations-Lexikon . 4th edition. Volume 13, Verlag des Bibliographisches Institut, Leipzig / Vienna 1885–1892, p. 466.
- ↑ "The word Pumpernickel" . In: The Gazebo . Issue 27, 1878, pp. 456 ( full text [ Wikisource ]).
- ↑ Pumpernickel . In: Meyers Großes Konversations-Lexikon . 6th edition. Volume 16, Bibliographisches Institut, Leipzig / Vienna 1908, p. 454 .
- ↑ Pumpernickel . In: Economic Encyclopedia von Krünitz.
- ↑ Rochus Pumpernickel - a musical Quodlibet in three acts , on europeana.eu, accessed on August 10, 2017
- ↑ Pumpernickel Bread . cooksinfo.com (English) accessed December 8, 2016