Werner Haim (mountaineer)

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Werner Haim (born October 10, 1941 in Kainisch ; † March 16, 2012 in Innsbruck ) was an Austrian mountaineer .

biography

Even as a child, Werner Haim was enthusiastic about the Dachstein , which he climbed several times as a commercial apprentice in Schladming . After his apprenticeship, he completed his basic military service in the armed forces , then completed the NCO training and successfully completed his training as an army mountain and ski guide in 1964. As a platoon leader , he was a founding member of the mountaineering section of the Absam Army Sports Club , and later an honorary member. One of his mountain guide students was the later military commander of Vorarlberg , Ernst Konzett . In 1970 Haim also completed his training as a state-certified civil mountain and ski guide. He was also a parachutist and air rescue instructor. He reached the rank of lieutenant , was married and had two children. His son is the former ski jumping junior world champion Werner Haim .

Rockclimbing

Haim began mountaineering in 1957 and was one of the best mountaineers in the world in the 1960s and 70s. His most famous alpine trips included the Great Zinne north face ( Superdirettissima , 3rd ascent ), the Rotwand west face, the Grandes Jorasses Walker pillar, the Matterhorn north face, the Petit Dru south west pillar ( Bonattip pillar ), the Triolet north face, the Piz Badile -Northeast Face and the Westliche Zinne -North Face ( Franzosenführe ).

He has also made numerous first ascents in the Tyrolean mountain area, including the Hochiss north face, Fallbachkar north face, Speckkarspitze north face , Schlicker Seespitze east face , Kalkwand north face, Musterstein south face, Solstein north face and the first complete winter crossing of the Kalkkögel .

Due to his experience, he has participated in national and international expeditions several times, such as the Austrian Peru-Andes expedition in 1966 (second ascent of Jirishanca ), the Sigi Löw commemorative expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1970 (first attempt to climb the Rupal Wall ), a rescue expedition to Mount Kenya -Massiv 1970 (rescue of the injured Tyrolean doctor Gert Judmaier just below the main summit), a Rio de Janeiro expedition in 1972 (first ascent of the Sugar Loaf north face), the first European Mount Everest expedition in 1972 (first attempt to climb the south-west face ), the Tyrolean Brazil expedition in 1974 ( First ascent of the Corcovado West Pillar) and the Karl Golikow Memorial Expedition 1976 (failed attempt to complete the Toni-Kinshofer-Weg to the summit).

In July 1985, Haim had an accident on the Gamskar South Face and has since been paraplegic and dependent on a wheelchair. Most recently he lived in Absam . He wrote several mountain books, including my life as a mountaineer and in a wheelchair and climbing to the point of falling into nothing .

Honors

Web links