Dorothea Nicolai

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Dorothea Nicolai (* 1962 ) is a German costume designer , set designer , author and curator . From 2000 to 2007 and from 2012 to 2015 she was the “Director of Costume and Makeup” at the Salzburg Festival . In 2017/18 she was head of costume design for the Bayreuth Festival . Since April 2019 she has been teaching "History of Clothing and Design" at the AMD Akademie Mode & Design in Munich .

life and work

Nicolai first completed an apprenticeship as a tailor in Munich . She gained her first theater experience in the costume department of the Bavarian State Theater under the costume direction of Antje Lau. In 1986 she initially worked as a costume assistant and set designer . From 1986 Dorothea Nicolai then completed a costume study to become a costume master and costume expert at the University of Applied Sciences in Hamburg under Dirk von Bodisco and Brigitte Stamm.

This was followed by professional positions as a costume assistant, dressmaker and costume designer in France , Italy , Belgium and Austria . She was, among other things, dressmaker at the Ateliers du Costume , under the direction of Danièle Boutard, in Paris . From 1990 she received freelance engagements as a costume designer for Bavarian television for the documentary films Die Geschichte der Post and the French course Bon Courage .

From 1992 to 1995 she was a costume assistant at the Salzburg Festival . From 1993 to 1996 she also taught costume history at the Mozarteum Salzburg . From 1995 to 1999 she was the “costume production manager” in the Federal Theater Association in Vienna for the Vienna State Opera . In this function she was responsible for the costumes of the Vienna State Opera Ballet for the classical ballet productions; She also designed costumes for modern choreographies by Christine Gaigg and Nicolas Musin .

From 1999 to 2007 Nicolai was responsible for the costume department of the Salzburg Festival as “Head of Costume and Makeup”. In her function as “Head of Costume and Makeup” she was one of the festival's seven main department heads. She designed costumes for drama , opera and ballet . In 2006 Nicolai created two costumes based on original designs from the 18th century for the ballet evening Mozart's IDOMENEO-CHACONNE for the Salzburg Festival . The costumes were reconstructed by Nicolai based on historical models from the Derra de Moroda Dance Archives of the University of Salzburg . Nicolai's costumes determined the aesthetics of the production and the dialogue between dance and costume. In 2006 she also developed the costumes for the new production of Mozart's youthful works Apollo et Hyacinthus and The Duty of the First Commandment for the Salzburg Festival . From 2001 to 2007 she also held a teaching position for costume history at the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich.

In 2006 she was responsible for the design of the costumes for the resumption of the opera Les Troyens at the Paris Bastille Opera ; she realized the costumes based on the original designs by Herbert Wernicke , who staged the opera in 2000 for the Salzburg Festival.

Dorothea Nicolai was costume director at the Zurich Opera from 2008 to 2012 . In 2008 she designed the costumes for the world premiere of the children's opera Im Schatten des Maulbeerbaums by Edward Rushton ; Nicolai's "harmonious costumes" were part of a Mediterranean idyll into which the director Aglaja Nicolet set the work. For the season opening of the Zurich Opera House in 2009/2010, Nicolai created the costumes for the Swiss premiere of the Singspiel Der Stein der Weisen or Die Zauberinsel by Emanuel Schikaneder with music by Mozart, Johann Baptist Henneberg , Benedikt Schack and Franz Xaver Gerl . She also designed the costumes for several ballet evenings at the Zurich Opera House.

From 2012 to 2015 she was the “Director of Costume and Makeup” at the Salzburg Festival, where she was responsible for the artistic direction of around 80 cloakrooms and dressmakers as well as around 60 make- up artists . For the 2013 Salzburg Festival, she designed the costumes for a production of Mozart's Singspiel The Abduction from the Seraglio in a version for children.

In 2017 and 2018 she worked as head of costume design at the Bayreuth Festival and supervised the new productions of Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg and Lohengrin .

In the summer semester of 2019, she began her work as a lecturer at the Akademie Mode Design (amd) in Munich for "History of Clothing and Design".

Since 2005, Dorothea Nicolai member and since 2013 board member of the Costume Committee of the International Council of Museums (International Council of Museums, ICOM) and founding member of the Society for costume makers.

Costumes (selection)

Stage sets

  • 2016: The Barber of Seville, Director: Tristan Braun, Premiere: Chamber Opera Munich, Nymphenburg Palace 2016.

Exhibitions (selection)

  • April 17 - November 1, 2015: The clothes of indulgence , curators: Erika Oehring and Dorothea Nicolai. An exhibition by the Residenzgalerie Salzburg in the north oratory of the DomQuartier in cooperation with the Salzburg Festival .
  • May 22 - September 29, 2019: Expressive dance and Bauhaus stage, Kestner Museum Hannover: Catalog entry Moving fabrics and architecture in space. Considerations about the costumes for expressive dance and the Bauhaus stage .
  • 2020: Olympic Museum Lausanne: “Spirit” costume (Youth Olympic Games opening ceremony)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c d e f g h Dorothea Nicolai ( Memento from October 27, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Vita (Conference on Fashion and Movement ; Zurich University of the Arts ; September 2011)
  2. ↑ a b c The angel's diabolical robe in: Tages-Anzeiger of February 19, 2011
  3. ↑ a b c ... and now the wings! ( Memento of the original from October 22, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF; 205 kB) Report on the “Costume and Mask” department at the Salzburg Festival with biographical details on Dorothea Nicolai; (Official website of the State of Salzburg ; accessed on July 7, 2013) @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.salzburg.gv.at
  4. ↑ a b Danced Costumes -Mozart's IDOMENEO-CHACONNE ( Memento of the original from October 4, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Press release of the University of Salzburg from June 1, 2010 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www2.sbg.ac.at
  5. ↑ NEWS: Scandal over CFO of the Salzburg Festival News.at on August 7, 2002
  6. ↑ Idomeneo ( Memento from October 22, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Review from July 25, 2006; TANZ KRITIK.at ; Retrieved July 7, 2013
  7. ↑ Mozart and the Dance ( Memento of the original from October 4, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. in: Salzburger Nachrichten (blog) of June 22, 2006 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / blogs.salzburg.com
  8. ↑ In the final spurt back to youth works, preliminary report on the premiere (official website of the University of Salzburg ; accessed on July 7, 2013)
  9. ↑ Il ritorno dei Troiani online review in: Giornale della Musica ; Retrieved July 7, 2013
  10. ^ Turbulence in the Bim family in: Neue Zürcher Zeitung of January 29, 2008
  11. ↑ Wim Bim is ding dong and opera is a pleasure. Performance review in: Tages-Anzeiger, January 29, 2008
  12. ↑ Fairy tale retold performance review; DrehPunktKultur from January 30, 2008
  13. ↑ Black and white become gray. Performance review in: Neue Zürcher Zeitung of September 7, 2010
  14. ↑ Costume and mask Official website of the Salzburg Festival ; Retrieved July 7, 2013
  15. ↑ The blue clothes . Retrieved March 27, 2020.
  16. ↑ AMD AKADEMIE MODE & DESIGN / Team . Retrieved March 27, 2020.
  17. ↑ https://schloesserblog.bayern.de/hinter-den-kulissen/vom-buch-+auf-die-buehne-die-restruktion-zweier-barocker-festkostueme
  18. ↑ https://www.opernwerkstatt-am-rhein.de/peergynt
  19. ↑ The Barber of Seville Chamber Opera Munich: The Barber of Seville
  20. ↑ Exhibition: The Clothes of Buhlschaft ( Memento of the original from June 30, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Cathedral district Salzburg @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.domquartier.at
  21. ↑ Expressive dance and Bauhaus stage
  22. ↑ [1] .
personal data
SURNAME Nicolai, Dorothea
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German costume designer, set designer, author and curator
DATE OF BIRTH 1962