Tie
The tie (of French à la cravate for "by Croatian Art"), even tie , self tie , or in connection with uniforms and long necktie called, is a long piece of fabric that a tie knot is tied around the neck. The tie developed from the cross tie (also called "bow tie" or tie ribbon) by their ends were cut longer. As a rule, the tie is worn with a shirt , with it under the shirt collar and the button placketcovered. A tie pin or clip can be used to attach the tie to the shirt .
The tie is traditionally part of a man's wardrobe, but it is also occasionally worn by women. Mainly ties are worn together with a business suit in professional life as well as on celebratory or formal occasions (such as weddings , family celebrations ).
A special form is the wide tie scarf , which - once loosely knotted - is worn in the open shirt collar and is the elegant, casual trademark of many dandies . The plastron is a special wide tie for the cutaway .
Word origin
The word "tie" is in French à la cravate "by Croatian Art" back (compare testified mainly in Austria dialectal form Krawat " Croat ", Croatian Hrvat ). Another form was called croatta . The term tie originally only referred to the ends of the tie and only became synonymous in the 20th century .
Carrying method
A tie is around 145 cm long, and is offered in excess length of around 155 cm for particularly tall people. At its lower end it is about two to three times as wide as at its upper end, which is tucked behind the visible wide end into a loop provided for this purpose, called a passer-by, after the knot . Alternatively, the narrow end can be tucked into the shirt between the second and third buttons. How long the tie will be when worn is determined by the position and type of knot. The preferred length is subject to the respective fashion. From 1900 to around 1970 there was a whole hand's width between the tie tip and belt buckle. This has been retained for a number of military clothing. In the 1950s, for a short time particularly wide ties were chic ( "bold look" ), which were worn very short.
As with the choice of the right tie knot, it is up to the wearer whether a tie with a tie clip or pin should be worn or whether a fashion accessory should be avoided entirely . In the 2010s, most business people stopped using staples and needles. In some companies this is even prohibited by the dress code applicable there .
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In addition to its color and shape, the knot of the tie plays the most important role. It is available in over 180 variants, the best known are the four classic knots:
- Four-in-hand
- half and full Windsor knot
- Pratt knot
- Grantchester node (known in Germany as the "Manhattan node")
The choice of the right knot is on the one hand a matter of taste, on the other hand it depends on the neck, shirt collar and the thickness of the tie fabric. Sometimes the four-in-hand knot is seen as "sloppy". This is due to the slight asymmetry of the knot. However, this asymmetry can be beneficial on slightly more prominent faces.
Material and cut
In addition to textile raw materials (for example fabrics made of silk , new wool , cotton or polyester ) there are ties made of a wide variety of raw materials, for example leather , hemp or wood and even metal , glass or solid plastics .
Woolen ties and knitted ties are mainly worn with classic casual clothes such as tweed. High-quality ties are made from 100% silk or other natural fibers and are manufactured under the names of all well-known men's fashion suppliers.
The width is fashion-dependent, as are the color combinations and designs in striped patterns - which are assigned to certain regiments, schools and clubs in England, for example -, free patterns such as paisley or even a uniform color.
Manufacturing
Since the 1920s, founded by the New York tailor Jesse Langsdorf, the fabric has been processed diagonally to the weaving direction. In this way, the pull exerted by tying and loosening is better absorbed by the silk fabric. The tie pattern also appears diagonally. A distinction is made between the American cut and the European cut . They differ in that the cut is rotated by 90 ° to the other cut. With ties in the American cut, the pattern shows a diagonal from top left to bottom right. With the European cut, the pattern runs diagonally from bottom left to top right. Another important development emerged in the 1920s. On the one hand the lining and on the other hand the insert were secured as soon as the tie was folded.
Luxurious ties are lined with a plain silk lining. Alternatively, the same material as the tie itself can be used as lining, which is referred to as self-tipped .
The seven- fold tie, also known as the seven-fold tie, is rare and particularly labor-intensive . They consist of a single square silk scarf, the diagonal of which determines the length of the tie. This scarf is then folded seven times until it is so narrow that it can be tied as a tie. The fold is fixed on the back with a small seam. One variant is the open tie , which without an insert gets its shape solely through its special folding. The latter is most similar in shape and style to the foulard , a silk scarf tied like a tie.
The insert of the tie should be made of a soft and elastic fabric, ideally a fabric made of pure new wool is used . The inlay gives the tie a light padding that smooths the silk fabric. With a good insert, the tie can be tied easily and retains its shape. Expensive ties are provided with an additional lining between the silk fabric and the insert.
storage
To ensure a long service life, ties should be stored either hanging on a hanger or rolled up in a drawer. An exception are knitted ties, which are best stored flat. In general, it is important to ensure that no pointed or sharp objects (such as zippers) from other items of clothing can pull threads out of the fabric of the tie.
If ties have to be transported in the suitcase, it is important to ensure that they are not creased too much and that no other items of clothing can damage the delicate silk fabric. There are various protective sleeves and bags for ties in the trade, in which these can be transported safely and easily. If you don't have such packaging at hand, it is advisable to roll up the tie and place it in a relatively well-protected place in the suitcase. Such a suitable place would be e.g. B. a shoe. Since a suitcase is usually shorter than a tie, it must be folded at least once. If you fold it twice, a tie folded in this way will fit between a pile of smooth items of clothing.
maintenance
If the knot remains in the tie for a long time, the fabric takes on its shape and is no longer smooth. The higher the quality of the silk fabric and insert, the easier and safer it is to tie a tie.
Ties usually do not tolerate machine washing or water baths. However, stains can be dabbed off with a sponge soaked in lukewarm soapy water or a clean cotton or linen cloth. Vigorous rubbing can damage the silk fibers. Another problem is water stains.
Crumpled ties can easily be brought back into shape with a steam iron, but they cannot withstand high temperatures. Alternatively, you can hang your tie in the bathroom on a hanger near the shower and take a hot shower. The steam from the shower smooths the silk fabric.
history
Scarves
On the Trajan Column in Rome , warriors of the cohorts of Marcus Ulpius Trajanus (53–117) can be seen wearing a knotted cloth around their necks. This “ focale ” cloth was primarily used to protect the neck and was also popular among speakers. The widespread view that the soldiers of the first emperor of China Qin Shihuangdi (around 220 BC) wore a shawl with loosely hanging ends as a preform of the tie is wrong. Rather, these drooping ends come from the broad band that fixes the headdress , which is differentiated according to rank . This fact becomes clear not with the usual frontal photos but rather with photos from the side or from the back and with the originals, which were discovered by Chinese farmers in 1974 : They found the now world-famous terracotta army near the old imperial city of Xi'an .
Tie
According to a popular legend, the tie owes its popularity to a troop parade in 1663 in front of the Palace of Versailles, still under construction, for the French King Louis XIV. A Croatian cavalry regiment also marched on this parade . According to tradition, these riders wore a piece of cloth that was attached to the collar in the form of a rosette (or bow ) and the ends of which hung over the chest. This part of the Croatian uniform allegedly attracted the attention of the king, who subsequently took over the Cravate and spread it among the nobility . He employed his own cravatier to look after his ties.
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Louis XIV with a jabot (1667) and, on the right, a French nobleman with a necktie and a bow (around 1678)
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The costume researcher Ingrid Loschek explains :
“By no means […] was the scarf-like 'tie' only common with Croatian mercenaries, although the now common name cravate is derived from Croatian . From the Roman focale to the scarf of Croatian regiments to the necktie of officers and generals of the Thirty Years' War , the tie was always in a military context, even though it was never a fixed part of a military uniform. "
German and French soldiers with necklaces and bows are also shown in depictions from the Thirty Years' War. Since around 1655 - i.e. before the alleged parade in Paris - men of the upper classes wore a scarf in place of the stiff shirt collar that was customary up until then, which was placed twice around the neck and tied at the front and then hung over the chest. This cloth was called a neck tie . It can be seen as the forerunner of the tie. In the 18th century, ready-sewn collars with a fastener in the neck appeared. The bandage, reinforced with horsehair or whalebone , was part of the correct soldier's uniform.
Artists and “free spirits” often demonstratively did without neck ties or ties. During the French Revolution , ties became a political symbol and identifying feature, because while the nobility wore white silk ties, the proletarians wore brightly colored cotton towels. The revolutionaries at the time of the uprisings in the German states of 1848 demonstratively wore red scarves.
The correct tying technique for ties became particularly important in the 19th century and appropriate textbooks appeared in England and France. In 1818 the standard work "Neckclothiana" by an unknown author was published in London. The book “L'art de mettre sa cravate” by the French nobleman Émile Marco de Saint-Hilaire listed thirty-two different tie knots in 1827. It was not until after 1860 that the so-called long tie became generally accepted in Europe, in contrast to the previously common shorter and wider form.
The city of Krefeld on the Lower Rhine became known for the production of exclusive woven silk fabrics, from which ties were also made, so that a tie industry later developed there. Around 80 percent of all ties made in Germany still come from Krefeld. Since 1965, the Krefeld-based Tie Institute, together with the German Institute for Men's Fashion and the Cologne Trade Fair, has honored a public figure with the title of Tie Man of the Year, whose appearance puts the tie stylishly in the limelight .
Is the tie going out of style?
Since the turn of the millennium, and especially after the financial crisis of 2008, when the bankers came under increasing fire with their status symbol, ties, ties have also been worn less and less in professional life. Many large companies have adjusted their dress codes accordingly.
The first member of parliament to give a speech in the German Bundestag without a tie was the later Chancellor Gerhard Schröder in the early 1980s . He countered the interjection as to whether he didn't have a tie: “Your understanding of dignity is an understanding that relates to form. Our understanding of the dignity of parliament is an understanding that relates to content. ”With reference to the dignity of the house, male members of parliament were obliged to wear a tie for the role of secretary for years . This obligation had repeatedly led to the exclusion of MPs from this role. It was not until 2014 that the obligation to wear a tie for this role was abolished at the request of the presidium members Claudia Roth and Petra Pau .
The majority of the members of the Greek government headed by Alexis Tsipras , elected at the beginning of 2015, did not wear a tie.
In German companies there is an increasing tendency not to wear a tie. At the beginning of 2016, the CEO of Robert Bosch GmbH, which is generally considered to be steeped in tradition, announced that he had abolished the tie requirement in his company.
Clip tie
Clip ties are ties that are simply put into the collar with a clip and are not tied, but look like a conventional tie. This has the advantage that the wearer cannot be strangled when the tie is pulled. Police and security services in particular use such ties for their own safety, but so do counter clerks, employees and service providers who are often exposed to assaults and attacks.
Women's ties
Ties are a symbol of masculinity, but they were part of the equestrian clothing of some noble women as early as the late 17th century. At the end of the 19th century they were worn as long ties by sailors and cyclists .
“It is noticeable that many educated ladies of the high nobility were photographed in suits and men's blouses with ties. Around 1900 women's rights activists underlined their efforts to achieve equality by wearing ties. In the 1920s, the Garçonne took over the man's tie as a symbol of their emancipation . "
After trousers had established themselves as female work clothes in World War I , Marlene Dietrich made the tie known as a fashion accessory in addition to the trouser suit . However, ties have not caught on as part of women's fashion.
In the 1970s and 1980s, the women's tie was introduced as a uniform in the German police force. This has so far existed, except for the Brandenburg police .
anniversary
The October 18 is a day of action as "World Day of the tie." In Croatia, especially Zagreb and the surrounding area, it is mostly celebrated with promotions.
literature
- François Chaille: ties. Tradition and trend. Falken, Niedernhausen 1997, ISBN 3-8068-7319-4 (standard work).
- Baron Émile de L'Empésé: The Art of Tie Tying . Translated by Stefanie Jung. Heel, Königswinter 1992, ISBN 3-89365-268-X . (Reprinted from the Libraire Universelle edition, Paris 1827).
- Thomas Fink, Yong Mao: The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie. Piper, Munich / Zurich 2002, ISBN 3-492-23506-9 .
- Eva-Maria Kuß: Ties with style - the most important knots and best styling tips . Gondrom, Bindlach 2007, ISBN 978-3-8112-2837-5 .
- Davide Mosconi, Riccardo Villarosa: Bow ties and ties. The binding art of the fine knot. 188 intricate possibilities. Bechtermünz, Augsburg 1997, ISBN 3-86047-782-X . (Original edition published in Italian: 188 Nodi da Collo. Idea Libri, Milano / Firenze 1984, ISBN 88-7082-030-0 ).
- Rod Dyer, Ron Spark: Fit to be tied. Vintage ties of the forties and early fifties. 3. Edition. Abbeville, New York 1987, ISBN 0-89659-756-3 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Self-tie. In: Duden. Retrieved May 16, 2019 .
- ↑ The tie team - How is a tie made?
- ↑ Stefanie Bisping: In the home of the tie. In: Welt Online. November 13, 2005.
- ↑ a b Ingrid Loschek: Accessories. Symbolism and history. P. 147.
- ^ Ingrid Loschek: Accessories. Symbolism and history. P. 150f.
- ↑ nwzonline.de
- ↑ docplayer.org
- ↑ Dress code: Bundestag abolishes mandatory ties for secretaries. In: Spiegel Online, February 2, 2014, accessed on February 2, 2014.
- ↑ a b Topless: Confessions of a person wearing a tie . In: Frankfurter Allgemeine from January 10, 2016
- ↑ Telepolis on Heise.de: Tsipras and the revolt against the obligation to wear a tie . February 4, 2015, accessed February 6, 2015.
- ↑ From shawl to scarf to tie: a short story about the most useless item of clothing ever. In: Berner Zeitung of October 13, 2016
- ↑ Without tie and costume: The new dress code of the top managers In: Der Tagesspiegel from June 27, 2016
- ↑ Clothing regulations for the police force ( Memento from April 15, 2009 in the Internet Archive ) Point 2.3: Wearing styles, accessed on May 6, 2011.
- ↑ Ministry of the Interior Brandenburg: First police officers in blue - numerous improvements. July 27, 2006, accessed May 6, 2011.
- ↑ Acamedia Cravatica: Svjetski dan Kravate. ( Memento of March 18, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Retrieved on February 27, 2012 (Croatian).