Santa Catalina Island (California)

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Santa Catalina Island
Map
Geography
LocationPacific Ocean
ArchipelagoChannel Islands of California
Administration
United States
Demographics
Population3,696

Santa Catalina Island, often called Catalina Island, or just Catalina, is a rocky island off the coast of the U.S. State of California. The island is 22 miles (35 km) long and 8 miles (13 km) across at its greatest width. The island is located about 22 miles (35 km) south-southwest of San Pedro, Los Angeles, California. The highest point on the island is Mt. Orizaba (648 m), at 33°22′29.7″N 118°25′11.6″W / 33.374917°N 118.419889°W / 33.374917; -118.419889.

Part of the Channel Islands of California archipelago, Catalina falls under the jurisdiction of Los Angeles County. Most of the island is owned by the Catalina Island Conservancy.

The total population as of the 2000 census was 3,696 persons, with almost 85 percent living in its only city of Avalon (pop. 3,127, with another 195 south of the city outside of the city limits). The second center of population is the unincorporated town of Two Harbors, in the north, with a population of 298. Development occurs also at the smaller settlements Rancho Escondido and Middle Ranch. The remaining population is scattered over the island between the two population centers. The island has an overall population density of 49.29/mi² (19.03/km²).

History

Santa Catalina Island, location relative to the coast of Southern California
Tourists enjoying the waters off Catalina in 1889

Prior to the modern era the island was inhabited by people of the Gabrielino/Tongva tribe, who also lived in the area of Los Angeles, had villages near present day San Pedro and Playa del Rey, and who regularly traveled back and forth to Catalina for trade. The Tongva called the island Pimu or Pimungna. The Gabrielino/Tongva are renowned for their mining, working and trade of soapstone which was found in great quantities and varieties on the Island. This material was in great demand and was traded along the California coast.

The first European to set foot on the island was Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, sailing for Spain. This happened on October 7, 1542. He claimed the island for Spain and christened it San Salvador. Another Spanish explorer, Sebastian Vizcaino, rediscovered the island on the eve of Saint Catherine's day (November 24) in 1602. He renamed it Santa Catalina to honor the feast day of St. Catherine of Alexandria.[1]

During the following 300 years, the island served as home or base of operation for many visitors, from Russian otter hunters to Spanish smugglers to Chinese pirates. Franciscan monks tried to build a mission there, but failed due to the lack of fresh water on the island. The native population was mostly wiped out by disease during 19th century. Catalina Island experienced a brief period of gold rush in 1860s, but no gold was found and only a little silver. In 1864, the federal government, fearing attempts to outfit privateers by Confederate sympathizers in the American Civil War, put an end to the mining by ordering everyone off the island. A small garrison of Union troops occupied the Catalina for about nine months. (Their barracks stood until the 1940s, when they were destroyed in a fire.)

By the end of 19th century, the island was almost uninhabited except for a few cattle herders. At that time, its location just 20 miles (30 km) from Los Angeles—the city that had reached the population of 50,000 in 1890 and was undergoing the period of enormous growth—was a major factor that contributed to the development of the island into a vacation destination.

The first owner to try to develop Avalon into a resort destination was George Shatto, a real estate speculator from Grand Rapids, Michigan, who purchased the Island for $200,000 at the height of the real estate boom in Southern California in 1887[2]. Shatto created the settlement that would become Avalon, and can be credited with building the town's first hotel, the original Hotel Metropole, and pier[2]. His sister-in-law Etta Whitney came up with the name Avalon, which was pulled as a reference from Lord Alfred Tennyson's poem "Idylls of the King," which was about the legend of King Arthur. Despite Shatto's efforts, in a few years he had to default on his loan and the island went back to the Lick estate.

The sons of Phineas Banning bought the island in 1891 from the estate of James Lick and established the Santa Catalina Island Company to develop it as a resort. They built a home at what is now Two Harbors, and is now that village's hotel. Their efforts were set back on November 29, 1915 when a fire burned half of Avalon's buildings, including six hotels and several clubs. World War I also hampered tourism, and the Banning brothers were forced to sell the island in 1919 to chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr.

From 1927 through 1937 pottery and tile were made on the island, and these items are now considered collectibles. The Chicago Cubs, also owned by Wrigley, used the island for the team's spring training from ca. 1920-1950, absent the war years of 1942-45.

During World War II, the island was closed to tourists and used for military training facilities.[3] Catalina's steamships were expropriated for use as troop transports, the U.S. Maritime Service set up a training facility in Avalon, the Coast Guard had training at Two Harbors, the Army Signal Corp maintained a radar station in the interior, and the Office of Strategic Services (a precursor to the CIA) did training at Toyon Bay. [4]

Catalina's airport, the "Airport in the Sky" (AVX), was completed in 1946. The 3,250-foot (990-meter) runway sits on a mountaintop, 1,602 feet (488 m) above sea level. Up until the time of the airport's construction, the only air service to the island was provided by seaplanes.

In 1972, the Brown Berets, a group of Hispanic activists seized the island, citing the Guadalupe Hidalgo Treaty, a treaty between Mexico and USA by which Mexico sold more than half of its territory, and arguing that the treaty does not specifically mention the Channel Islands. The U.S. had occupied them since 1852, and it had been speculated that Mexico could claim the islands and seek their return through litigation before the International Court of Justice. However, a detailed analysis of its situation puts in doubt the likelihood of Mexico winning the case at the International Court of Justice.

Known shipwrecks in the waters off the island include the Diosa del Mar (33°27′46″N 118°29′31″W / 33.462770°N 118.491925°W / 33.462770; -118.491925), which was sunk July 30, 1990 near Ship Rock. Also, the Valiant, a sunken, burned yacht a couple hundred yards out from Descanso beach. It has about $75,000 worth of jewelry never recovered. Dive by harbormasters permit only. The oldest shipwreck known on Santa Catalina Island is that of a Chinese smugglers (pirate) ship on the backside of the island.

The Wrigleys and the Casino

Avalon Bay around 1910, before the construction of the Casino
The Casino as it appears in 2007

William Wrigley, Jr. bought controlling interest in the Santa Catalina Island Company in 1919 and devoted himself to preserving and promoting it, investing millions in needed infrastructure and attractions. In 1921 he sold lots for building in the town of Avalon.

The tourism industry was encouraged by the construction of a beautiful Art Deco dance hall, called the Casino, in 1929. The Casino was 140 feet (43 m) high when it was built and was the tallest building in Los Angeles County at the time. Surrounded by sea on three sides, the circular Art Deco structure stands the equivalent of 12 stories tall.

Avalon Theater, on the first level, shows first-run movies nightly, and the theater's original Page Organ still plays before the show. The circular domed ceiling has remarkable acoustics studied by experts from around the world. The upper level houses the world's largest circular ballroom with a 180-foot (55 m) diameter dance floor. French doors encircle the room, and balcony views are spectacular.

The gorgeous Catalina Island Casino is a two million dollar "Palace of Pleasure" located midway between Hotel St. Catherine and the town of Avalon. It is the only building of its size in the world erected on a full circular plan. A mammoth motion picture theater is on the ground floor and, above, the world's largest circular ballroom.

Wrigley put in ramps instead of stairs, an idea taken from his Chicago Cubs stadium. The ramps allowed the large numbers of people using the ballroom to quickly move to and from their destinations without accident or injury.

The upstairs dance floor has a capacity of over 6,000 dancers, and sits above the glamorous Avalon Theater, which seats 1,150 and is the first ever designed specifically for sound movies. The upstairs dance floor is also used by the local high school basketball team making it one of the plushest and most expensive basketball courts ever.

The theater is so well-insulated that theater patrons cannot hear the band playing or the 6,000+ partying dancers on the floor above, yet the excellent acoustics are so good that a speaker on the theater stage can speak in a normal voice without a microphone and be heard clearly by everyone in the theater, including those in the back rows.

While the theater shows movies almost exclusively, it has the capabilities to host theatrical productions as well. The Casino's name derives from a more traditional Italian definition of casino, meaning social gathering place; the building has never served as a gambling establishment and for many years did not even serve alcoholic beverages.

In 1975, Philip Wrigley deeded the Wrigley shares in the Santa Catalina Island Company to the Catalina Island Conservancy that he had helped create. The Conservancy now stewards 88 percent of the island. The mission of the Catalina Island Conservancy is to be a responsible steward of its lands through a balance of conservation, education and recreation. So far, the successes include the opening of California's first permanent desalination plant in 1991.

Geology

According to Sunset magazine, "Catalina...is a geographic anomaly. Unlike California's other seven Channel Islands, it didn't break away from the mainland, but was formed by the upward heave of tectonic plates."[5] The island is very rich in quartz and silver, to the point that some beaches on the seaward side have silvery-grey sand.

Catalina is primarily composed of two distinct rock units, Catalina Schist from the Cretaceous and volcanic and intrusive igneous rocks from the Tertiary period.

Wildlife

Among thousands of species of plants and animals, Catalina is home to 15 taxa found nowhere else.

Flora

About 400 species of native plants grow on the island[6]. Six species, subspecies or varieties are endemic and can be found only on Catalina Island. These plants are: Catalina manzanita (Arctostaphylos catalinae); Catalina mahogany (Cercocarpus traskiae); Catalina dudleya (Dudleya hassei); St. Catherine’s lace (Eriogonum giganteum var. giganteum); Santa Catalina bedstraw (Galium catalinense ssp. catalinense); and Santa Catalina Island ironwood (Lyonothamnus floribundus ssp. floribundus).

These plants may be seen at the Island's Wrigley Memorial & Botanical Gardens.

Avalon Bay is the major bay on Catalina Island
Infrared image of Catalina, foliage appears red.

Fauna

The island is home to five native land mammals: the Island Fox, the spermophilus beecheyi nesioticus subspecies of California Ground Squirrel, the Santa Catalina Island Harvest Mouse (reithrodontomys megalotis catalinae), the Santa Catalina Island Deer Mouse (peromyscus maniculatus catalinae), and the Ornate Shrew (sorex ornatus). Only one Ornate Shrew was ever found, from a now-developed spring area above Avalon. Shrews are difficult to capture and may survive in wetter areas of the island.[7]

The Island Fox is an endangered endemic species. In 1999 all but 100 out of 1,300 foxes on Catalina Island were wiped out due to a virulent strain of canine distemper. Following a successful recovery program which included captive breeding, distemper vaccinations and population monitoring, the Catalina fox community has been restored to more than 400 individuals—a number deemed by the Conservancy scientists to be a self-sufficient population.[8] However, mysterious, usually fatal ear tumors continue to plague the Catalina fox. Three Catalina Island Conservancy wildlife biologists continue to monitor the population through pit tagging, trapping and inspection.

A herd of American Bison roam, supposedly first imported in 1924 for the silent film version of Zane Grey's Western tale "The Vanishing American." Over the decades, the bison herd grew to as many as 600 individuals. Bison were routinely removed and sent to the mainland to auction. Recently however, another solution was implemented. The Conservancy initiated a scientific study that determined that a herd of between 150 and 200 would be good for the bison, and ecologically sound for the Island. In 2004, the Conservancy partnered with the Morongo Band of Mission Indians, the Tongva (thought to be Catalina's original inhabitants some 4,000 years ago), and the Lakota tribe on the Rosebud Reservation in South Dakota. A hundred bison were relocated "home" to the Great Plains. The Conservancy plans to pursue a similar plan when the bison population exceeds 200 individuals. Although the bison are not native to the Island, they comprise an important role in the cultural fabric of Catalina. Therefore the Conservancy has no plans to remove all the animals from the Island.

On September 21, 2007, the research co-authored by biologist Dennis Hedgecock of the University of Southern California and Texas A&M University (journal Animal Genetics) found per DNA analysis that the Cataluna wild American Bison of Santa Catalina Island is not pure bred, having a little bit of cow in them (45% have a domestic cow as an ancestor).[9]

The Conservancy is also working to restore bald eagles to the Island, with several chicks hatching in 2007.

In the waters surrounding the island, there are schools of fish like garibaldi, Yellowtail, Calico Bass, White seabass, Giant sea bass, Leopard sharks, blacksmiths, opaleyes and many more.

The Catalina Orangetip is a notable insect of the island.

Tourism and attractions

Avalon beach in summertime

About a million tourists visit the island every year; Catalina is serviced by ferries and the "Airport in the Sky." Ferries depart from Orange County in Newport Beach and Dana Point, while they depart from Los Angeles County in Long Beach, San Pedro, and Marina del Rey. The trip takes approximately an hour and costs $40-60 round trip. Helicopter service is also available from Long Beach or San Pedro.

Most of the island is controlled by the Catalina Island Conservancy, a private nonprofit organization. The mission of the Catalina Island Conservancy is to be a responsible steward of its lands through a balance of conservation, education and recreation. Through its ongoing efforts, the Conservancy protects the magnificent natural and cultural heritage of Santa Catalina Island, stewarding approximately 42,000 acres (170 km²) of land (88 percent of the island), 50 miles (80 km) of rugged shoreline, an airport, and more than 200 miles (300 km) of roads.

Under an agreement with Los Angeles County, the Conservancy has granted an easement to allow day hiking and mountain biking, but visitors must first obtain a permit at the Conservancy's office (on which they declare the parts of the island they intend to visit). Hiking permits are free, whereas bicycle permits are available for a fee (as of 2006, $60 per person annual, $20 per person good for 2 consecutive days, helmets and mountain bikes with knobby tires required).

The use of motor vehicles on the island is restricted; there is limit on the number of registered cars, which translates into a 10-year-long wait list to bring a car to the island. Most residents move around via golf cart. Tourists can hire a taxi from Catalina Transportation Services. Bicycles are also a popular mode of transportation. There are a number of bicycle and golf cart rental agencies on the island. Only the city of Avalon is open to the public without restrictions.

Two Harbors, the smaller of the island's two population centers

The only major road into the back country is Stage Road.

Glass bottom boats tour the reefs and shipwrecks of the area, and scuba diving and snorkeling are popular in the clear water. Lover's Cove, to the east of town, and Descanso Beach, to the west of the Casino, are popular places to dive. The area is famous for the schools of flyingfish and the bright orange Garibaldi which teem in local waters. Bus tours are given of the interior.

While tourists rarely have an opportunity to surf, two beaches on the "backside" of Catalina offer good waves: Shark Harbor and Ben Weston Beach.

Two Harbors is the second, and much smaller, resort village on the island. Located at the isthmus of the island, north of Avalon, it is the primary landing spot for those who wish to tour the western half of the island. It is accessible by boat from San Pedro and by bus or boat from Avalon.

Art Good, host of the Jazztrax Showcase of the Absolute Newest, holds the Catalina Island Jazztrax Festival there each year.

The Catalina Island Museum, located in the historic Casino Building, is also an attraction as it is the keeper of the the island's cultural heritage with collections numbering over 100,000 items and including over 7,000 years of Native American history, over 10,000 photographs and images, a large collection of Catalina-made pottery and tile, ship models, and much more. The museum features dynamic exhibits on this history and also a unique gift store. Programs include walking tours of Avalon, classes for students, gallery docents, lectures, an annual silent film benefit and more.

Camps

Public Camping

The Santa Catalina Island Company has campgrounds at Two Harbors, Parson's Landing, Black Jack, Little Harbor, and Hermit Gulch inland from Avalon. All campgrounds require a reservation and permit. There are also 9 primitive boat-in only campgrounds. Detailed information can be found at the VisitCatalinaIsland website.

Private Camps

Two Boy Scouts of America councils in Los Angeles County have camps north of Two Harbors: Camp Cherry Valley, operated by the San Gabriel Valley Council, located two coves north of Two Harbors at Cherry Cove; and Camp Emerald Bay, operated by the Western Los Angeles County Council, further up the coast.

The island contains a YMCA summer camp named Camp Fox, operated by YMCA of Glendale, which holds several summer coed youth camps, a summer girl's camp, as well as a Christian leadership conference in spring. There is also Campus by the Sea, a camp operated by InterVarsity Christian Fellowship, located at Gallagher's Cove.

There is also a coeducational camp at Howland's Landing named Catalina Island Camps, which has been there since the 1920s. Catalina Island Camps is home to many camps including Camp del Corazone, a camp for kids and counslers with heart disease or defects.

Guided Discoveries also runs several camps on Catalina Island providing hands on opportunities to learn marine science and environmental studies to school groups and community groups during school year and sea camps during the summer.

Education

Children in Avalon attend schools in the Long Beach Unified School District.

There is one K-12 school on Catalina Island: Avalon Elementary School, Avalon Middle School and Avalon High School are all one big K-12 school on one campus. About 800 students attend Avalon schools each year. Thousands of school-age youths travel from the mainland to study at the Catalina Island Marine Institute every year.

The USC Wrigley Institute research and teaching facilities at Two Harbors, maintained by the University of Southern California and named for Philip K. Wrigley, consist of a 30,000-square-foot (3,000 m2) laboratory building, dormitory housing, cafeteria, a hyperbaric chamber, and a large waterfront staging area complete with dock, pier, helipad, and diving lockers. The facility was made possible by a generous donation from the Wrigley family.

2007 fire

Fire containment map, May 12, 2007

On May 10, 2007, fire broke out in the hills north and west of the city of Avalon.[10] At least three structures burned, and over 4000 acres (16 km²) were consumed by flames. Avalon City Councilman Scott Nelson said: "We've lost five or six small businesses in Falls Canyon and a construction company building in Birdpark Canyon." He also said that evacuees who took refuge in the casino, which is without power, have been moved to another location.

Nelson said about 100 firefighters were battling the blaze and that another 200 new recruits, arriving by hovercraft and Marine helicopters, were bedding down at the airport to work the day shift in the morning. Catalina Express was also running extra boats through the night to take people off the island. 700 evacuees were reportedly at the Ceasar E. Chavez center in Long Beach.

The eCatalina.com newsletter reported on June 1, 2007 about the fire, "Fortunately, the fire that captured the attention of the nation did not cause any damage to the charm of the City of Avalon, the community of Two Harbors or the activities, shopping, tours, restaurants and accommodations our visitors enjoy. 4,750 acres (19 km2) of interior chaparral burned sparing most wildlife, including the Catalina Island Fox, bald eagles and bison."[11]

Pop culture and trivia

  • In the 1920s, in an effort to generate tourism towards Catalina, William Wrigley Jr. tried to convince Gertrude Ederle, who had just become famous as first woman to swim across the English Channel in 1926, to swim from Catalina to the mainland which was roughly the same distance. She declined, so he launched the 1927 Wrigley Ocean Marathon: offering $25,000 to the first person to cross the channel, with $15,000 for the first finisher of "the fair sex." Out of a field of 102, only one man finished, Canadian swimmer George Young, finishing 15 hours and 44 minutes after the start. The two women who came the closest were awarded $2,500 each.[12]
  • After visiting Catalina Island, Jack Owens, the Cruising Crooner, a popular radio vocalist of Don McNeil's Breakfast Club, was inspired by the friendly greeting people used there, "Hi, Neighbor," and wrote the music and words in 1941 for a song of the same name, and it went on to be a top-selling pop tune that year.
  • On May 31, 1950, actor Gregory Harrison was born at Avalon on Santa Catalina Island. His father, Ed Harrison, operated a glass-bottom boat sightseeing service on the island. Harrison went on to star in many stage, screen and television productions, including Logan's Run, Trapper John, M.D., Centennial, and It's My Party. In 1980, Harrison and a partner founded an entertainment production company, the Catalina Production Group Ltd., named after his island birthplace.
  • In 1958, the Four Preps recorded the hit song "26 Miles (Santa Catalina)"; the song reached the #2 position on the U.S. popular music charts.
  • In 1982, the group Descendents released the album Milo Goes to College, featuring a song called "Catalina."
  • In 1984, Catalina and the Avalon Casino were the filming locations for the "Airwolf" episode titled "Sins of the Past", though the island was given a fictional name.
  • Catalina Island is briefly mentioned in the 1987 movie Lethal Weapon as the place where Roger (Danny Glover) would like to fish with his new boat.
  • In 1989, actor Chad Allen is seen visiting Catalina Island in the promotional video The Real Chad Allen. Allen is seen visiting Avalon there and also snorkeling off the coast in the vicinity of a sunken ship.
  • In 1998, actor Phil Hartman was fatally shot by his wife Brynn Hartman, who committed suicide several hours after the murder. The couple's ashes were scattered in Emerald Bay off the coast of Santa Catalina Island as specified in Hartman's will.
  • In Dan Brown's popular novel Deception Point, published in 2001, there is a reference to sailing off the coast of Catalina.
  • In Sandra Byrd's Faithful Friends: The Hidden Diary Series (published in 2001), the main setting and location for all the books is Catalina Island.
  • In 2001, while vacationing on a yacht off of Catalina, Lisa Marie Presley allegedly got in to a fight with boyfriend Nicolas Cage and threw a famous ring, once owned by her father Elvis Presley, overboard. The ring was worth approximately $500,000.
  • In the 2001 fictional novel A Darkness More Than Night, by Michael Connelly, Catalina Island is featured extensively.
  • In 2002, the TV show Endurance was filmed on the island.
  • In a 2004 season one episode of the Fox series Arrested Development titled "Staff Infection," employees of the Bluth Company get lost on Catalina Island, and are found and transported by a sheep herder in his animal trailer.
Catalina panorama, taken from a sail boat; Avalon is to the far left, Two Harbors to the mid-right.

References

  1. ^ Rearview Mirror: 1542, Los Angeles Times, October 1, 2006.
  2. ^ a b Jessica Gelt, A day in: 90704, Los Angeles Times, January 7, 2007
  3. ^ Catalina Island Life During WWII, by Jeannine Pedersen, Curator of Collections, Catalina Island Museum
  4. ^ Otte, Stacey, Executive Director & Jeannine Pedersen, Curator Catalina Island History (2004 Catalina Island Museum)
  5. ^ Reynolds, Gretchen, "Catalina Cool," Sunset, Sept. 2006, pp. 32-38.
  6. ^ Lili Singer, A plant pilgrimage, Los Angeles Times, August 10, 2006.
  7. ^ Schoenherr, Allan (2003). Natural History of the Islands of California. University of California Press. p. 645. ISBN 0520211979. {{cite book}}: Unknown parameter |coauthors= ignored (|author= suggested) (help)
  8. ^ Rich Zanelli and Frank Starkey, Catalina's foxes stage a comeback, Los Angeles Times, December 26, 2006.
  9. ^ Yahoo.com, Study: Catalina bison aren't purebred
  10. ^ Sahagun, L. and S. Quinones. 2007. Catalina fire lays siege to Avalon: Hundreds of residents and tourists are forced to flee the island. Los Angeles Times. 11 May.
  11. ^ eCatalina.com, Vol. 6, No. 6, June 2006, http://www.ecatalina.com/newsletter_current.cfm
  12. ^ James Rainey, Crossing the icy waters for posterity, Los Angeles Times, October 18, 2005.

External links

Silhouette of Catalina Island at sunset, as seen from the mainland

33°23′N 118°26′W / 33.383°N 118.433°W / 33.383; -118.433