Chambertin (vineyard)

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Chambertin's vineyard in autumn

The Chambertin is a famous wine and a vineyard on the Côte d'Or in French Burgundy . The actual location has an area of ​​12.90 hectares. As a Grand Cru , the Chambertin has its own appellation . Only red wine is produced from the Pinot Noir grape variety . The Chambertin was Napoléon's favorite wine .

The designation “Chambertin” can also be used for wines from the Clos de Bèze (15.39 hectares) immediately to the north . In 2002, 478 hl Chambertin and 461 hl Chambertin-Clos de Bèze were produced. In addition to these two, the municipality of Gevrey-Chambertin owns seven other Grands Crus with a total of 58.77 hectares, the name of which is appended “Chambertin” (see below).

Climate and geology

Clos de Bèze vineyard to the left of the Route des Grands Crus

The Chambertin is located on a gently rising (6%) eastern slope at a height of 280 to 300 m above sea level . The forest above protects the location from cold winds. The situation is usually spared even late frosts. The climate is assigned to the Burgundian transitional climate, in which continental influences predominate over maritime ones. The mostly dry and hot summers allow the Pinot Noir to ripen, but great vintages are only created when there is no rain in autumn to impair the harvest.

The floor of the Chambertin consists of a one meter thick layer of brown limestone - weathering rubble ( silt ). The vines must therefore drive their roots into the base of Jurassic rock ( oolite ). Geologically it comes from the Bajocium . The upper part has a particularly thin, marl- rich layer and delivers the finest wines. The lower part has a slightly thicker layer of marl limestone, which results in full-bodied wines. However, almost all the parcels are aligned across the slope, so that these differences are not found in the bottled wines.

The Clos de Bèze vineyard to the north is a little steeper and higher than the Chambertin, which means that it has better drainage. The subsoil also consists of compacted Jura rock. The upper part has a light marl-containing soil, further down the layer is brown and rich in mineral salts.

Wine

The Chambertin is considered to be one of the best red wines in Burgundy. Among these, he stands out above all for his physical abundance. At the same time it is finely structured and complex in terms of taste, with a very persistent finish. Even in small vintages, it needs at least ten years in the cellar to fully mature. With age it still gains in fullness, but retains a rich fruity aroma in which cherries can dominate. There are also notes of spices and liquorice as well as a great minerality . However, there are big differences in terms of quality and senses , as around 25 different owners share the location. The age of the vineyards, the clones used , the yield policy and cellar management and the different marketing concepts of the various manufacturers make the difference. The wines of the Clos de Bèze, which can optionally also be sold as Chambertin , can have a little less body in comparison , but be more finesse. Eighteen producers share the vineyard property. But it is less parceled out than the Chambertin, above all there are hardly any owners with shares below 25 ares .

Chambertin and Clos de Bèze are usually made exclusively from Pinot Noir . As more varieties are Pinot Liébault and Pinot Beurot admitted. Theoretically, up to 15% white grapes ( Chardonnay , Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc ) can be used. The natural alcohol content must be at least 11.5% by volume, chaptalization is allowed - as everywhere in Burgundy. The basic yield is 35 hectoliters per hectare, this may be exceeded by a maximum of 20%. The yield is usually around 35 hl / ha, so both Grands Crus together deliver around 130,000 bottles per year.

White Chambertin, which was valued as highly as the Montrachet , was also produced until the 19th century . The AOC no longer allows white wine - in contrast to Musigny - today.

More Grands Crus from Gevrey-Chambertin

In the Gevrey-Chambertin area there are seven other sites classified as Grand Cru, whose names always have the addition of "-Chambertin". They all border the Chambertin or the Clos de Bèze and together cover almost 59 hectares. The basic yield permitted for these appellations is slightly higher at 37 hl / ha.

  • Chapelle-Chambertin , 5.49 ha, consists of two individual layers: En la Chapelle (3.69 ha) and Les Gémeaux (1.79 ha). The name goes back to the Notre-Dame de Bèze chapel belonging to the monastery , which was demolished around 1830. The location borders the Clos de Bèze to the east and is thus a little lower above sea level . Compared to the Clos de Bèze, the slope is slightly weaker and the marl-limestone soil deeper. The wines have less body than those from the neighboring vineyards, but are of greater delicacy. Almost 40% of the site belongs to the Domaine Pierre Damoy (see below).
  • Charmes-Chambertin (12.25 ha), borders the Chambertin to the east, from which it is separated by the Route des Grands Crus . The location name is probably derived from the word chaume ( fallow land ). The limestone is only covered by a thin layer of marl and coarse weathered debris. The rocky subsoil is full of cracks, so that the roots of the vines can penetrate deeper. The Wine of Charm is dense and deep in color in its youth. Its fullness, roundness and sustainability are reminiscent of the Chambertin. With age it can develop aromas that are reminiscent of violets , liquorice, vanilla or coffee .
  • Mazoyères-Chambertin (18.59 ha) (may also be sold as Charmes-Chambertin ), continues the Charmes-Chambertin to the south. The name probably alludes to a former settlement ( Maisons - houses). The 30–35 cm thick calcareous-loamy earth crumb is interspersed with limestone pebbles. Its microclimate is cooler than that of Charm, and the character of the wines also differs significantly. They can be meaty, complex and have a very good shelf life. Over 20% of the two locations belong to the Domaine Camus (see below), six other properties each own over one hectare.
  • Griotte-Chambertin (2.69 ha), continues the Chapelle-Chambertin to the south and borders the Clos de Bèze to the east. The layer forms a hollow to the east, and the poor soil is only 30 cm thick. The word “Griotte” is derived from this: Criotte is a diminutive of Crai , “stony ground”. The sub-floor from the Bajocium is full of cracks and allows good natural drainage . The Griotte-Chambertin can have rounder tannins and less acidity than the wines from the neighboring sites, which is why it develops faster. Nevertheless, it can be stored and can compete with its neighbors in terms of complexity and aromatic complexity. Domaine Jérôme Chézeaux owns more than half of the site .
  • Mazis-Chambertin (9.10 ha, sometimes also called Mazy-Chambertin ) consists of two individual layers: Mazis-Bas (4.56 ha) and Mazis-Hauts (4.54 ha). The etymology is the same as that of Mazoyères . The location continues the Clos de Bèze to the north and is therefore at the same altitude. The Jura subsoil is also comparable, but the ground is brown. In the upper part it is particularly thin, which is why it has to be brought up again after heavy rainfall. In the lower part, however, its thickness reaches up to 1.5 m. The Mazis-Chambertin can develop a deep color, an intense nose of red fruits and a full body. Similar to the neighboring Clos de Bèze, it develops elegant aromas and great finesse with increasing maturity. The largest owners are the Hospices de Beaune with 1.58 hectares ( Cuvée Madelaine Collignon ). These come from a foundation made in 1976 by Jean Thomas-Collignon , after whose mother the cuvée is named.
Old gate to the Latricières-Chambertin.
  • Latricières-Chambertin , 7.35 ha, continues the Chambertin to the south and consists of two parts: Latricières (6.90 ha) and Aux Combottes (0.44 ha). The name was first mentioned in 1508 and alludes to the nature of the poor, barren soil. Like the Chambertin, the Latricières has an oolite subsoil with a thin layer. The microclimate is warmer than in the neighboring areas. The wine can develop a high density of color and often notes that are reminiscent of leather. Although it is less complex and sustainable than the other Grands Crus, it can be stored well. The largest owners with more than one hectare each are Domaine Camus and Haus Faiveley .
  • Ruchottes-Chambertin (3.30 ha). The smallest of the Grands Crus is in the far north, above the Mazis. It consists of two parts, Ruchottes du Bas (1.31 ha) and Ruchottes du Dessus (1.99 ha). The name of the location was also mentioned for the first time in 1508. It denotes small pieces of rock, ruchots . The upper part of the vineyard rests on a base made of oolite limestone, the lower part on compact rock that is exposed in places. The ground cover is thin and very stony in the lower part. The proximity to the cut of the northwestern Combe de Lavaux increases the influence of westerly winds, which leads to slower ripening of the grapes. The acid values ​​are therefore slightly higher, which often gives the Ruchottes-Chambertin wines a powerful structure. Its taste can be intense, but does not quite match the finesse of the wines from neighboring Mazis-Chambertin. The entire walled Clos des Ruchottes , almost a third of the site (1.06 hectares), belongs to the Domaine Armand Rousseau (see below), another third is shared by the domains Georges Roumier and Georges Mugneret .

owner

The vineyard holdings at Chambertin and Clos de Bèze are very fragmented. But this is not a new phenomenon; rather, there are striking parallels between the plans for Clos de Bèze from 1813 and today. The oldest cadastre of Chambertin from 1829 already shows 12 owners. The division of parcels usually only occurred in the event of inheritance. The ownership structure has shifted: At the beginning of the 19th century the vineyards still belonged to the bourgeoisie of Gevrey and Dijon, today the owners are predominantly winemakers from Gevrey and the surrounding area. Some hectares are owned by large negociants (French wine merchants) such as Louis Latour and Faiveley.

Below is an overview of the most important owners of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze as well as their other holdings in Chambertin locations. Over 60% are accounted for by seven goods from the municipality of Gevrey-Chambertin (darkened background):

winery place Chambertin (ha) Clos de Bèze (ha) Charmes and
Mazoyères (ha)
other (ha) Overall grands crus
Camus Pere and Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1.6938   6.9076 Mazis (0.3737), Latricières (1.5112) 10.4860  
Bruno Clair Marsannay-la-Cote   0.9802     0.9802
Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin 0.4759 5.3595   Chapelle (2.2182) 8.0536
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin   1.4671   Chapelle (0.5148), Mazis (0.1240),
Latricières (0.6745)
2.7804
Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune   0.12   Griotte (0.53 ha) 0.65
Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges   1.2942   Mazis (1.2026), Latricières (1.2067) 3.7035
Louis Latour Beaune 0.8114       0.8114
Domaine Leroy Auxey Duresses 0.5005     Latricières (0.5715) 1.0720
Domaine Marion (Bouchard Ainé) Fixin   1.4419     1.4419
Domain Jacques Prieur Meursault 0.83 0.146     0.9760
Domaine Henri Rebourseau Gevrey-Chambertin 0.4612 0.3313 1.3187 Mazis (0.9634) 3.0746
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 1.5478     Chapelle (0.5474), Latricières (0.7340) 2.8292
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1.9482 1.1916 1.3667 Mazis (0.52), Ruchottes (1.0612) 6.0877
Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin 0.3983   0.57 Mazis (0.4183) 1.3866
Domaine Jean-Louis Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 1.8524     Chapelle (0.5474), Latricières (0.7340) 3.1338
total   10.52 12.07      

history

The slopes of the Côte d'Or were probably planted with vines as early as Roman times . The first written testimony comes from Saint Gregory of Tours , who reported in his description of Dijon in the second half of the 6th century : “ The fertile slopes are full of vines, from which the inhabitants obtain a Falerner of such class that they can enjoy wine from Reject Chalon . “The name Gevrey appears for the first time in 640 in connection with the abbey of Bèze, founded in 630, when the Burgundian Duke Amalgar gave it a large estate in Gevrey including vineyards. He wanted to free himself from his guilt: his liege lord, the Frankish king Dagobert I , had rewarded him with rich goods for his services in killing his uncle Burnulf. The Clos de Bèze is the oldest historical vineyard in Burgundy.

The Abbey of Bèze joined the Benedictine order in 826 . Their rich possessions on the Côte d'Or aroused the covetousness of their neighbors, whom the abbey could not resist in the long run. For the first time in 1101 and finally in 1280, Cluny Abbey took control of Gevrey. This blocked the expansion of the Abbey of Cîteaux , founded in 1098 , which had to orient itself further south and took its seat in the Clos de Vougeot . However, the church of Gevrey was under the control of the Bishop of Langres . The cathedral chapter of Langres tried for the first time in 1049 to acquire the Clos de Bèze, whereas the abbey even called on the Pope for help. In 1219 the time had come: The abbey of Bèze, which was ruined by fire, finally agreed to sell it.

However, the vineyard was always cultivated by winegrowers from Gevrey, who paid a fee for it. At the beginning of the 14th century at the latest, the Clos de Bèze was completely walled. The walls fell into disrepair over time, as did the vineyards, some of which lay fallow in the 17th century. Rich citizens from Dijon took advantage of the decline of church property to gain a foothold in viticulture. In 1627, for example, Claude Jouard leased the Clos de Bèze for twenty years and then restored it. In 1651 the lease was extended indefinitely. An attempt by the cathedral chapter of Langres to reclaim the Clos in 1708 ultimately failed in court.

The origin of the neighboring Chambertin is relatively more recent: In the 13th century it was first mentioned in a document under the name Campus Bertini ( "Champ de Bertin" - Field of Bertin ): In 1276, Guillaume de Grancey exchanged with the Abbey of Cluny in the Champ de Bertin located vineyards. In the 16th century, Chambertin and Clos de Bèze already had their current size of 70 ouvrées , a good 28 hectares. Both locations were considered equivalent. In the market, however, the name "Chambertin" gradually established itself for both of them. The pastor Claude Arnoux , who emigrated to England, stated in 1728 that this was twice as expensive as the other wines and described it as follows: “In my opinion the most important wine in the whole of Burgundy [...] It includes the advantages of all other wines, but does not have their mistakes: it is the one who can be left lying around without fear of anything ”(quoted from: Jean-François Bazin, Chambertin [see below]).

In 1731 a particularly illustrious personality appeared on the scene. Claude Jobert , born in Montigny-sur-Aube in 1701 , settled in Gevrey, where his wife from Langres owned goods. He managed to get a large part of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze into his possession. He embodied the new type of negociants , who exported his wine abroad. He adorned himself with the title of “ Supplier to the Kurpfälzischer Hof ”, but only transactions with a partner in Frankfurt (Oder) are documented . As a sign of his social ascent he acquired the title of the writer of the coin of Dijon and a royal council secretary , the ennoblement being incurred. From 1756 he was allowed to call himself " Claude Jobert de Chambertin " - the only case that someone appropriated the name of a Grand Cru. The male line died out in 1815.

The reputation of Chambertin is documented, among other things, by a directory of the Louis XVI wine cellar . The Chambertin operates there alongside Clos de Vougeot , Richebourg , La Tâche and Romanée-Saint-Vivant . In the 18th century it cost three to ten times as much as Gevrey wines and was also in great demand beyond the Rhine, as documented by the records of the oldest wine trading houses in Beaune . In 1787 the then Ambassador of the United States , Thomas Jefferson , visited Burgundy. As president in 1803, he ordered 100 dozen bottles of Chambertin for the White House . In the meantime, the property of the cathedral chapter of Langres had been auctioned off as a national property in the course of the French Revolution . At 777 livres , the surcharge for an ouvrée in the Chambertin was significantly higher than in the Clos de Tart (415 livres) and in the Clos de Vougeot (616 livres).

The Chambertin reached the height of its fame through Napoléon I. The Emperor had learned to appreciate the wines of Burgundy during his time as a young officer in Auxonne (1788) and made the Chambertin his favorite. On the advice of his personal physician Jean-Nicolas Corvisart and the chemist Claude-Louis Berthollet , he drank it daily, but always diluted with water and no more than half a bottle per meal. Contracts with the wine merchants Soupé and Pierrugues ensured him constant supplies, so one of the two always accompanied the emperor. The Chambertin was five to six years old and was bottled in specially made bottles from Sèvres , in which a crowned "N" was engraved.

In the 19th century, Chambertin finally became a brand name. Many wines from the northern Côte d'Or were sold under this name. It was not until 1905 that a law stopped this practice. After the Dijon court established the rules for using the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation in 1929 , the vineyard owners founded an association to defend the Chambertin appellation. General Henri Rebourseau took the lead . The 1935 law on the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée eventually created the basis for the protection of the name Chambertin . After a long legal tug of war, the decree of July 31, 1937 finally set the limits of all Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin. Since then, the suffix “Chambertin” has only been permitted for those plants that grow on immediately adjacent parcels.

References

  1. AREV - decree on the appellations Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.arev.org  
  2. AREV - Decree on the appellation Chapelle-Chambertin  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.arev.org  

literature

  • Jean-François Bazin: Chambertin. La Côte de Nuits de Dijon à Chambolle-Musigny . Jacques Legrand, Paris 1991, ISBN 2-905969-32-6
  • Benoît France (ed.): Grand Atlas des Vignobles de France . Solar, Paris 2002, ISBN 2-263-03242-8
  • Robert Petronio: De Gevrey à Morey. Lectures de la Côte de Nuits in Revue du Vin de France No. 508, February 2007, pp. 42–45
    - Vertical sample of the Chambertin of the Domaine Armand Rousseau and the Clos des Lambrays .

Web links