Hasana J. Hakenmüller

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Hasana J. Hakenmüller

logo
legal form from 1887–1948 OHG, 1949–1951: KG; from 1993: GmbH & Co. KG
founding 1887
resolution 2000
Seat Tailfingen , Hechingen-Weilheim, Germany
Number of employees up to 400
sales approx. 10 million DM
Branch Textile industry
Status: 1996

Hasana J. Hakenmüller was a German textile factory that was founded in Tailfingen in 1887 and existed until 2000. It produced in seven stages with its own winding, warp-knitting , knitting, bleaching, dyeing , finishing and processing. In the course of its 113-year history, almost all modern types of fabric, from sheep and angora to heavy Egyptian cotton, terrycloth and plush, to jersey and wool mixed with plastic or nylon, have been processed.

For more than a century it distinguished itself through some technical innovations in the textile industry, supplied all well-known wholesalers and retail chains in Germany, Switzerland and (from 1957) Holland, and brought Germany's first "-sana" product to the market ( official registration for the production of outer and underwear for men, women and children (including knitted and knitted) as a figurative mark at the German Patent Office under the slogan: ´Hasana - for the whole family` on May 13, 1960). Before that, however, Heinrich Maute in Bisingen / Hohenzollern had registered the “Sanarilla” brand for fine rib linen in 1930, and Conzelmann zur Rose in Tailfingen in 1912 bought the “Sanetta” brand from Switzerland.

Hasana J. Hakenmüller has manufactured almost all types of clothing for young and old in the course of its company history, apart from men's suits; among other things also stockings, women's coats, swimwear, but above all sportswear and underwear for civilians as well as leotards for the military and all baby and children's fashion. In the newspaper advertisement for a special edition on the Württemberg textile industry in Balingen, Ebingen and Tailfingen in 1934, the company boss announced:

" Greatest performance in all kinds of jersey goods.
Knickers, princess skirts, princess trousers, polo blouses, polo jackets and polo shirts, training suits, Olympic sports suits, gymnastics trousers and: gymnastics jackets, ladies' gymnastics suits, pajamas, dressing gowns, waists and children's suits, men's jackets, trousers, shirts and the like. Combat shirts, men's shirt trousers and men's sets, thigh and knee trousers.
The excellent quality of my products is anchored in the use of only first-class raw materials. - The following qualities are leading:
Artificial silk with a magnificent fleece, plated artificial silk, cotton with and without fleece, Louisiana, real Egypt. Mako, mixed wool, special washing quality containing wool, plush goods with handles, linings, piqué, à jour, Filena (knotted tricot) ”.
Hasana - the tried and tested fine rib knitwear for women, men and children.

In the vernacular, the textile factory was simply called JH or IH . The competition between the leading textile factories in Tailfingen was jovial on the outside, but was sometimes bitter on the inside. An energy-sapping race for fashionable clothes away from the big fashion centers of Paris, Milan and Düsseldorf with sometimes absurd material expenditure, so that a buyer from Quelle-Warenhaus AG in Fürth told the boss of J.Hakenmüller in 1997: “You have a bigger one (textile -) Collection like 'adidas'! How should that work? "

history

Company building in 1901 with the valley lift in the background.

In 1887, the trained banker Johannes Hakenmüller founded the J. Hakenmüller textile factory in a house in Tailfingen, which was later built in the neo-classical style by the Balingen foreman Carl Heinz around 1890 . During the second industrial revolution , he invested in new types of textile machines such as the round chair . The purchase of such technical marvels, which were so promising for the residents of the Swabian Alb, who until then largely lived from the sheep trade and house-to-house sale, was also funded by loans from the Württemberg government. Because there was also a spring on the agricultural area, Hakenmüller added textile equipment by 1906, with the help of which the simple and mostly natural-colored everyday textiles, especially underwear, could now be bleached and refined. Starting in 1896, architect Carl Ammann from Tailfingen designed an east wing of the farmhouse and residential house in the gable-like home style along the Lange Straße , which was completed in several construction phases by 1906. In 1910, the same master builder was commissioned to build an extension building with a steam boiler to equip textiles and as an independent manufacturing facility on the corner of Wilhelmstrasse and Bodelschwingstrasse in Onstmettingen, three kilometers away . After the First World War, this was sold to the textile manufacturer Johannes Drescher with his company Idreo .

Building in Onstmettingen for the multi-stage production of textiles, built in the neo-baroque style. Later modernized by the subsequent owner.

As early as 1904, eight years after the first modern summer Olympic Games , Johannes Hakenmüller was making “sports shirts”, as evidenced by a letterhead from J. Hakenmüller. At that time it still seemed anti-German to speak of "sport" rather than "gymnastics".

In the same year, the valley railway , which he initiated together with two mayors and two manufacturers from Ebingen and Onstmettingen, started ; an indispensable relief from now on, with large wagons to transport raw materials (such as the extremely fine macro- cotton from Egypt) and the textile goods made from them. J. Hakenmüller's letterhead from this period is the first to be decorated with the steam locomotive (model Borsig 5009) used in the background. Most of the large textile factories in the valley were still taking orders from the successful Jewish textile entrepreneurs in Hechingen , which had reached their capacity limits. In addition to Salome Blickle from Blickle's Witwe, Tailfingen, Johannes Hakenmüller was the first to announce his status as a contractor and developed his own textile brand under the umbrella of Tailfinger Textilfabrikation , which he initiated .

When the company founder died in 1917 - the grave of J. Hakenmüller was created in 1921 - his eldest son Julius (born 1888) ran the business alone, while the second eldest son Paul was still in France as a lieutenant and commander for supplies for Reims during World War I. found. After the German defeat in 1918, J. Hakenmüller increasingly focused on the production of health linen . For the “slip-on trousers” developed by him for women, “artificial silk with a glossy surface was increasingly used. The patented synthetic silk version had an inside made of cotton and an outside made of knitted rayon, with elastic bands at the waist and at the ankles ”. A technique that is used again today by the Mey textile factory in Albstadt-Lautlingen, the leading manufacturer of women's underwear. Julius and Paul Hakenmüller (since 1916 also authorized signatories of the company) began to have fashion designed according to the Filena technique, an air-permeable type of knitting that should protect the body from unnecessary perspiration. Up to the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939, 70,000–80,000 textiles a month were produced on a total operating area of ​​5437 m² since the new buildings were built. For the fans of tennis , which is becoming popular , he developed the so-called shirt pants , which, by means of a special button arrangement, prevented the shirt from slipping out of the pants during the competition. Time and again, the company bosses collected models and patterns for the designs of their women's dresses when they were on vacation in Italy, especially on the Lido of Venice, until shortly before the outbreak of the Second World War (see YouTube, HMG-TV).

In 1920 the four sons of the company founder separated. Paul (born 1890) and his older brother Julius Hakenmüller (born 1888) stayed at the headquarters as a general trading company, the two youngest, Alfred and Karl, also founded the Hakenmüller-Compagnie on Hechinger Straße in an abandoned manufacturing building ( Haco), which produced textiles until 1937. The workforce was distributed. Those who lived to the right of the Schmiecha River remained employed by JH; those who lived on the left were able to work in the new company.

Anniversaries who worked for 50 to 65 years in the widely vaunted working atmosphere of J. Hakenmüller were not uncommon: in addition to three men previously, z. B. Maria Albert, who was already busy at the age of 14, received the Federal Cross of Merit in September 1956.

A company foundation founded in his name, endowed with 50,000 gold marks by company founder Johannes Hakenmüller in 1917, initially supported financially distressed soldiers who had returned to Tailfingen from the First World War and their families. After the death of the founder, his two sons, as foundation chairmen, planned the construction of an outdoor swimming pool together with the Tailfinger city council. However, it was not possible to agree on a suitable location for this in good time. Because the foundation's capital was almost completely consumed by inflation until 1923. Julius and Paul Hakenmüller, however, created a so-called "followers' aid" with 5,000 Reichsmark initial capital from the remaining credit for the 50th company anniversary in 1937, which was intended to support well-earned employees in retirement.

Hookmüller voucher

In addition, there was life insurance for those who had left, war support, health and family benefits and the like. This fund was converted into a "support association" in 1951, which guaranteed additional financial benefits to active or former employees who had worked for the company for at least three years, and pensions and pension-like grants to those who had worked in it for 15 years without interruption.

View into one of the sewing rooms in the 1950s. The modern wing construction made of reinforced concrete, in line with the motto of the director of the Weimar Bauhaus Society, Walter Gropius, provided "more light, more air and more space" and thus healthier working conditions.
The extension and production building built in 1930 (left) and instead of the farmhouse as the founding cell, the administration building in Albstadt-Tailfingen built in 1937.
Glass window in the foyer of the administration building, 1936. Designed and painted for the company's 50th anniversary by the artist Albert Klaiber (1900–1960) in Stuttgart, like Oskar Schlemmer a student of Adolf Hölzl, made in Johan Saile's workshop in Stuttgart from hand-blown antique glass from Waldsassen. The motifs on the 2 by 3 meter large double door show all six stages of a fully integrated textile production. This work of art could be viewed in the “Maschenmuseum”, Wasenstraße 10, Albstadt-Tailfingen until spring 2019; today it is only accessible privately

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The textile factory became particularly striking because of its Bauhaus- style buildings, which were designed according to plans by the Tailfinger architect Johann Miller and built from 1930 to 1937, most recently under the direction of the Czech architect and Miller assistant Martin Cäsar. “This finally gave this place an urban character, and the buildings demolished in 1980 by a subsequent owner did not have to shy away from any comparison with similar buildings in the style of New Building and Bauhaus architecture,” said Ingrid Helber in her dissertation Studies on Industrial Architecture in Albstadt von 1999 writes. The clock tower, which visibly displayed the time on four sides across the Schmiechatal , became a symbol for the German jersey city of Tailfingen.

The Württemberg government in Stuttgart granted Tailfingen city rights after two unsuccessful attempts in 1930. The recently completed Hakenmüller factory building on Goethe- and Hechinger-Strasse, the main street, finally gave the place an “urban look” as well as older, large production facilities, according to the assessment committee. The new production building, which finally had to give way to the founder's house and home, built around 1890 in the neo-classical style, fully met the demands of the modern Bauhaus movement “more light, more air, more space”. The office building, completed in 1937, was of course also a response to the office of ´beauty of work` promised by the National Socialist rulers, which not only required the installation of spacious and hygienic air raid shelters (such as a cleaning basin at J.Hakenmüller), but (as on the ground floor) also special rooms for company roll calls and trust council meetings. In the same year, the winter garden, also still designed by architect Johann Miller in the Bauhaus style, was built on Paul Hakenmüller's house at Landhausstrasse 10 in Tailfingen.

The two managing directors and brothers harmonized constructively with each other and loved not only equestrian sport, but also collecting paintings from the so-called 'Munich School', well-known artists (Koester, Mullay, Gaboné, E. + Th. Harrison-Compton, von Zügel, Wagner-Höhenberg, among others, in her creative period between 1890 and 1920). They often buy these en bloque from the Nuremberg Kunsthaus Wormser, whose head salesman Corneli placed the paintings on the floor of their living room for them during his visit to Tailfingen, after which they were put off until the next day and sent to the 'Hotel Ochsen' to stay overnight then finally to achieve better prices when buying several works. During the holidays, both brothers went alternately to the North Sea and Venice, to the Lido, to the ´Grand Hotel Lido` and ´Hotel Excelsior`, where both textile manufacturers found some ideas for leisure activities on the large beach in front of their hotel door. Copied fashion, which was then realized in the 1950s. Paul and Helene Hakenmüller met there for over ten years with a German-Jewish couple who had remained childless and who finally wanted to buy their younger son and darling Jürgen-Olaf from them (see YouTube, HMG-TV). At the same time, there was a similar recruitment of the Jewish couple Leo and Hedig Wolff from Zuffenhausen, who recruited the later opposing sister of Helene Hakenmüller, Eugen and Erna Gutmann in Leonberg and Gerlingen, their second oldest daughter Margarethe, who took her to the USA at the beginning of the war and who later inherited her entire extensive fortune, including real estate in Germany, Italy, France and New York. Leo Wolff, one of the so-called ´Reiss-Wolf-Brothers` in Stuttgart, earned a lot of money recycling textile waste in the 1920s and 30s, and so he went to Hasana-J.Hakenmüller's high-production factory in Tailfingen came.

Another backbone for Hasana-J.Hakenmüller's economic success for almost fifty years were the two authorized signatories Gottlieb Schöller and Gottlieb Bitzer, who had already learned from the company's founder as an apprentice, had business power of attorney and complemented each other ideally in their very different characters : If Bitzer was a down-to-earth enthusiast of files and numbers, he remained very down-to-earth as a person born in Tailfingen and never left his home country on vacation, while his hobby, chicken breeding, also took up his leisure time. Every morning before he started work he checked how many eggs were being laid that day by feeling the back of each chicken. Schöller, on the other hand, was the more cosmopolitan businessman who indulged in spa stays during the holidays and built his own house on Lammerbergstrasse above his boss Paul and bought his own car.

This heyday came to an abrupt end with the beginning of the Second World War in September 1939, at the beginning of which the youngest of the four Hakenmüller brothers, Karl, had died as a soldier of sausage poisoning and their nephew Peter, son of Alfred Hakenmüller, had stayed in Russia since 1944, is considered lost. Alfred and Carl led a completely opposite life, the former also had a liaison with a lady in Stuttgart, which led to the dissolution of his marriage with Lise Müller, whereupon he moved to Stuttgart in 1937 and lived there as a privateer for several decades, but in the telephone book traded as a 'manufacturer'.

The trademark of J.Hakenmüller, which was legally protected by the German Patent Office in February 1930, referred to the water resources available under the company's premises in Tailfingen with the slogan "Well-washed", while the sheep depicted on the label is still partially processing its wool symbolized according to the hygiene system of Dr Carl Jäger. This patent also extended to the production of headgear, hosiery, body, table and bed linen, corsets, ties, suspenders and gloves, and was extended on November 14, 1955 by the German Patent Office in Munich.

Certificate of registration of a trademark with the Reich Patent Office
Historical view of the equipment in the center of the factory

In 1936, Paul Hakenmüller launched Hasana for fine rib knitwear (Ha-kenmüller - "sana", Latin for healthy ), the first well-known brand for health linen . Trademark protection was applied for for the brand in 1960 and registered in 1968. Other brand names - as announced in a company letterhead dated June 30, 1946 - were Hajota and "Hajotase" (for "Hakenmüller Johannes Tailfingen") for interlock laundry, "Hastrino", "Hafanto" and "Hanowa" in the 1930s to 1950s "For fantasy knitted button laundry, as well as" Hacharmant "for Hakenmüller women's clothing.

Letterhead J. Hakenmüller.jpg
Hookmüller's sales representative

In order to promote the sale of these diverse textiles, J. Hakenmüller had since 1910 an extensive network of commercial agents, including those of the Jewish faith, across the whole of the German Reich and later the Federal Republic, Switzerland and Holland, which is why "Israelite Holidays" appear on the company's annual calendar were registered until 1937.

On the basis of the various letters of condolence on the death of Paul Hakenmüller you can see how closely he worked with the leading cotton yarn manufacturers and suppliers in Germany, such as B. the spinning mills in Hof, Kulmbach, Kolbermoor, Aalen-Unterkochen and Lichtenstein-Unterhausen. In the course of the high reparations payments demanded by the victorious powers after the First World War and the rationing for military purposes that the National Socialist rulers began in 1933, the processing of pure cotton became increasingly scarce and expensive.

The owners of J.Hakenmüller made a virtue out of this need by gradually making use of the inventions of synthetic fibers by German chemical factories. IG-Farben in Berlin and Bayer AG in Leverkusen issued a license for their AGFA-Suprema color finishing, which JH even used to advertise in its company logo for several years. The highly elastic synthetic yarn was now used especially in women's undergarments, e.g. B. knickers, incorporated and sold as skin-tight charmeuse underwear. A growing sales market, as the National Socialist rulers, given the fact that no women served in the Wehrmacht, had no influence on this type of production of textiles with a low cotton content.

Because the production of the six fully integrated textile factories in Tailfingen (Martin Conzelmann (Casanova), Martin Ammann (Amata), Conzelmann zur Rose (Rosita), Balthasar Blickle's Wittwe (Blickle's International and Ahorn-Sport), Comazo and J. Hakenmüller ) was running at full speed, the National Socialist Gau leadership ordered them to carry out such job creation measures in nearby Schömberg . For this, land and an empty building had to be bought in advance. Due to the turmoil of the war, such a branch was not established, which is why each of the companies in this company sold its sixth share in 1946.

During the Second World War , by order of the Reich Minister for Armaments and War Production Albert Speer , the production of flak headlight motors for Daimler-Benz AG was relocated to part of the approximately 20  ares large area on February 15, 1944 . A large part of the workforce now worked for the new employer, while J. Hakenmüller still used the two-storey building of what was then the largest of its branches in Bahnhofstrasse in Hausen im Killertal for the actual textile production.

It is initially astonishing that this 'un-German' architecture of the Hasana Bauhaus company building complete with flat roof did not break open with the National Socialist rulers. In addition, there was the double-leaf glass door in the foyer, which was made very similar to the painting ´The Bauhaus Staircase` by Oskar Schlemmer, an artist whose works were depicted as ´degenerate` by the Nazis and partly burned. In addition, Gustav Klaiber was the artist of this glass door, a student of Adolf Hölzl in Stuttgart, that is precisely that teacher and from 1916-18 head of the Kgl. Academy of Fine Arts, whose Impressionist glass windows (e.g. in the Württembergisches Landesmuseum, Stuttgart) were removed by the Nazis.

One explanation for why these glass wing doors didn't bother us is that Julius, his brother Paul and his wife Helene became members of the NSDAP, whose badges they wore hidden behind the lapel of their suit, like so many fellow travelers. That the Tailfinger local group leader as well as the district leader in Balingen were courted (e.g. by the management of the colonial association, advertising for the Olympic Winter and Summer Games in Germany in 1936, or in the 1937 Reich election with numerous swastika flags being displayed on the new company building ) initially paid off. At least since then, however, Julius Antonie Rieser, b. Schloz, who lived in Ebingen at the time, had married a Jew, and brought a daughter into her second marriage, at least Julius became the petitioner. In return for leaving him alone, the brown city administration continuously assigned him refugees from the east to billeting, occasionally also forced laborers, after he had built his new large house in 1935. It is probably due to this fact that from autumn 1944 to May 1945 he had to take on the atomic researcher Otto Hahn, and not only had more rooms built into his attic for him and his wife. In 1947, Julius complained to the city administration that he had never been able to live alone in his new domicile when he submitted the building application for a second main entrance with another staircase.

After the end of the war, Julius Hakenmüller was interned in Balingen for at least fifteen weeks by the French occupiers of Tailfingen in July / August 1945. During the Second World War, he and his second wife housed forced laborers, armaments workers and, from August 1944 to May 1945, the nuclear chemist and Nobel Prize winner Otto Hahn , director of the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute for Chemistry , which was relocated to Tailfingen, in his large house built in 1935 . In 1946, however, both he and his business partner and brother Paul, who died in 1942, were denazified.

At the height of her creative power, Helene, Paul's wife, crashed into a tree in February 1936 after a carnival party with her family of origin in Stuttgart on her way back via Reichsstrasse 27 near Waldenbuch and was seriously injured. She had to give up her committed office as chairwoman of the German Colonial Association, local group Tailfingen. At this time, Julius Hakenmüller, who had been married since 1913, separated from his wife Clara Dölker due to childlessness in order to be in a relationship with Antonie Schloz, who worked at the Kaufhaus des Einheitspreis (KadeP) in Ebingen. She was already the mother of a ten-year-old daughter from her first marriage. Shortly before the outbreak of the Second World War, the divorce from Clara took place in July, and Julius married Antonie in August 1939.

The younger boss Paul was called up by the Wehrmacht to Brussels on January 3, 1941 as first lieutenant in the reserve. During their lightning advance, the German Wehrmacht perpetrated one cruelty after another on the civilian population, which caused horror in the fun-loving, especially meat-loving Lieutenant of the Reserve like the devout Paul (who started reading the Moravian slogan every morning). As 'indispensable' for the textile factory, which his brother is now managing alone again, he was transferred back to Tailfingen after three months. But the war experiences had weakened him psychologically, which is why he underwent a spa stay in a Bad Mergentheim. While he was visiting his two children at their place of study in Munich in 1942, he died of biliary colic at the age of only 52.

The eldest son Rolfdieter, who had already been chosen as the company's successor, suffered a skull fracture from two grazing shots during his military service as a corporal to protect German ships from anti-aircraft attacks in the Strait of Messina off Sicily (the consequences of which caused him severe headaches over the years made), which is why he was admitted to the hospital in the ´Prinzenbau` in Sigmaringen, where he also fell ill with jaundice. Since March 16, 1944 he was assigned to the Flieger-Ersatz-Bataillon VII in Nagold in the Black Forest for the dismissal of officers from service. During this time he joined the anti-Nazi resistance group around his chief Colonel Kurt Petersson, which only with a lot of luck escaped the persecution after Claus von Stauffenberg's assassination attempt on July 20, 1944.

The now sole acting boss Julius took advantage of this in 1943 and increased his share of the profits against the other partner, Helene Hakenmüller, Paul's wife. While the bank continued to earn interest on financial profits from its shares in Deutsche Bank until 1944 and soon after the Second World War, Julius 'second wife Antonie, who was born in 1939, brought a daughter into the marriage, who since 1949 has been the owner of the Friederich brothers' textile factory in Ebingen was married, as a result of which further working capital was given to the competition as a dowry. When Julius left in 1962, he had Rolfdieter, who had now joined the company as the third partner, pay him the monthly pension of a civil servant at the salary A 13, at that time approx. 3350 DM.

In June 1945, J. Hakenmüller had 238 circular knitting machines and 17 circular knitting machines, along with 89 sewing machines and 44 special sewing machines. After the Krauchenwies branch was looted in June 1945 and tricot underwear and tricot fabrics weighing 5602 kg and valued at 45,628 Reichsmarks were requisitioned free of charge from the warehouse in Tailfingen, the French occupation command confiscated 23 textile machines in spring 1946 as part of the reparation services and brought them to Paris. Before his military service, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller studied chemistry at the University of Munich until 1940 and, after the Second World War, completed an apprenticeship as a textile engineer at the Technikum , today's technical college in Reutlingen, from 1947 to 1949 .

In the 1950s, the J. Hakenmüller company made a profit primarily with the production of children's, men's and women's underwear, as well as all kinds of tracksuits, and during the time of the so-called “German economic miracle” tried to encourage German citizens to love to travel to Italy, in the production of leisure and swimwear for women in Agfa-Suprema-Edelmatt-Rayon. Pioneering was the patented K + K , a fine pimple fabric made of cotton in fantasy knit pimple, interlock and fine rib knitting technology, which particularly distinguished the Lido series . K + K stands for Knöllchen and Knöllchen , as the head knitting master Carl Vollmer, who switched from the Rottenburg textile factory Fouquet & Frautz to J. Hakenmüller, developed a mechanical knitting method in which the thread was plucked regularly. As a result, this fabric has proven to be particularly elastic as well as elastic and important for casual clothing as above all breathable. In order to expand the range of products and to assert himself in the face of growing competition from jersey manufacturers, foreman Carl Vollmer also converted small-inch knitting machines into hosiery machines around 1952, on which piqué fabrics were used primarily for the production of stockings and tights for women (brand names : "Hamasi") were produced.

The children's fashion division, which had been built up since the introduction of the Hasana brand, gradually gained in importance through the production of lingerie in sizes from 56 to 164. The collections that were later brought onto the market twice a year comprised around 150 sample dresses until the end. These were made more attractive by exclusive licenses with motifs from the original Smurfs comics, the ARD sandman, the US TV series Bonanza , Pippi Longstocking or the TV series Käptn Blaubär . However, since the production of health lingerie continued in parallel, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller - now the sole responsible boss in the third generation - was involved for 30 years, among other things, as deputy local chairman of the Hechingen group in the German Kneipp Association.

Bisingen branch
Branch in Hechingen-Stetten
Erkheim branch
Weilheim branch
Branch in Albstadt Tailfingen

Hasana J. Hakenmüller had up to seven branches, the locations of which stretched over an area from Horb am Neckar via Krauchenwies and Inneringen above the Danube Valley to Central Swabia. The first was founded in 1921 in Straßberg , then in 1922 in Hausen im Killertal , then in 1934 in Schömberg , later in Gruol , as well as in Stetten and Stein near Hechingen. The largest of these were in Weilheim near Hechingen, in Bisingen and in Erkheim in Central Swabia . Above all, the two branches in Bisingen and Weilheim at the same locations as those of the Maute textile factories (Kapart and Jockey-Volma) were repeatedly hit by the fact that the latter companies tried to poach seamstresses with higher wages.

After disputes with the descendants of his godfather Julius, the only surviving grandson of the company founder, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller, was forced to sell the J.H. building in 1968. The new owner tried to make a transshipment point there for textiles produced in the GDR for sale and on behalf of US companies via the free trade zone in Tangier (Morocco), which resulted in the invasion of Soviet troops to suppress the " Prague Spring " on 21. August 1968 failed. The area then acted temporarily as the administration of the nationwide urban textile stores, which were largely housed in former sales areas of the Aldi Group.

After the old YH building was demolished, the AC-Kaufpark was built on the same spot in 1980, which was last owned by the Comer Group in Ireland before the site was sold to the Edeka Group in 2015.

The first impetus for the decline of the textile industry in Albstadt-Tailfingen was the then Federal Minister of Economics, Ludwig Erhardt, who declared in 1963 at a New Year's reception of the Reutlingen Chamber of Commerce and Industry in today's Albstadt: “Textiles can be manufactured anywhere in the world, not just in Germany. ”As a result, the seamstress profession was increasingly socially undervalued, so that in order to get enough offspring at all, more attractive job titles had to be invented since the early 1980s. B. clothing maker or tailor.

At the same time, the Daimler-Benz factories in Stuttgart and Sindelfingen recruited mainly male and technically talented specialists from the textile industry on the outskirts and in the Swabian Alb for their strongly growing production of Mercedes vehicles and the introduction of the 35 hour week. The wage structure in the Württemberg textile industry broke up, as wages of up to 20 DM per hour could now be achieved at Daimler, while in the textile sector they stayed at around 10 - 15 DM in piecework. In order to keep their employees, the textile manufacturers had to base the level of the wages they paid on the metal industry. Dresses with the “Made in Germany” seal of approval were becoming far too expensive to be produced exclusively in Germany.

The consequences of this development: Hundreds of thousands of local jobs (often flexible part-time) - especially in rural areas - have disappeared, the vast majority of textiles are no longer only produced in Europe, but especially in the Far East at the lowest wages. Ultimately, the resulting production chain spanning many thousands of kilometers from cotton planting to production, with the associated enormous water consumption for equipment in countries with little drinking water (such as Pakistan or Bangla Desh), has become a huge part of the global environmental and climate problem .

When the previous manufacturer of sports shoe articles, the adidas company, launched its first textile on the market with the “Franz Beckenbauer” training suit in 1968, the real competitor came to the Tailfinger textile industry. After the death of the company founder Adolf Dassler, his wife Käthe and above all their son Horst waged a relentless campaign against the competition by seeking a lawyer to forbid all leading textile manufacturers from sewing ribbons with three stripes on their products. The dispute was taken up by Emma Gonser, head of the textile company Gonser (now "Gonso"), in Onstmettingen, who is in charge of another five textile factories based in Albstadt (Medico, Conzelmann zur Rose, Gebr. Friederich, ESGE, Gebr. Conzelmann) won to go to court together against adidas threats. The proceedings at all judicial levels up to the Federal Supreme Court lasted from 1977-1981 and ended with a victory for the Tailfinger coalition. The top judges explained to 'adidas' that although they had been market leaders for decades with the three stripes they claimed were the exclusive trademarks in the field of sports shoes, in the field of textiles they had not produced “anything worth mentioning” and therefore had no claim for this market in addition, to have generally ordinary characters with three stripes patented for themselves. The victors' attorney warned clients to remain vigilant and reserve money for further litigation with adidas.

He was right. Because now Horst Dassler began to copy the products of his textile competitors without a break until his untimely death in 1987 and with the help of huge financial bribes to get all the leading international sports associations on his side as licensees. To this end, he founded his own marketing agency ISL (International Sports and Leisure) in Zug, Switzerland, which soon influenced the marketing of television rights through to the broadcasting of the Olympic Games. This business tour behind the scenes completely escaped the attention of the leading textile manufacturers and, for decades, manufacturers of sports and more and more functional underwear (e.g. skiing, swimming and cycling) in the remote province of the Swabian Alb Albstadt-Tailfingen. Last but not least, two of their largest buyers of textiles of all kinds for three decades, the largest mail-order companies in Europe Otto and Quelle, concluded a pact with adidas by creating independent textile collections through the Dasslers and the chairman of the supervisory board, Robert Louis-Dreyfus with significantly lower volume prices than those sold in retail outlets. Because of the production of tens of thousands of tracksuits with a striped pattern, especially for the Bundeswehr until 1970, J. Hakenmüller also had a conflict with Adidas . An out-of-court agreement was reached to sew ribbons with clearly recognizable only two stripes along the training jackets and pants.

At the request of the outside world, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller took over the chairmanship of the 1st soccer club Tailfingen (at that time vice champion of the Black Forest Bodenseeliga ) and the Protestant parish council in Hechingen, which was chosen as his place of residence after his marriage in 1953. Diverse tasks as a sole trader and especially a father of three helped him to relieve deserving employees, authorized signatories, accountants, secretaries and chauffeurs from his father's era. a. For a while, J. Hakenmüller took on standardized contract orders for Schiesser, Radolfzell, and Charmor, Weingarten, in order to better utilize his production capacities. However, this pushed the company's own brand ´Hasana´ into the background for the first time.

In 1969 the sole owner chose the Weilheim district of Hechingen as the location for his new company headquarters, where the 40-year-old branch offered the largest and most efficient number of seamstresses. In the open field in the predominantly agricultural community, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller had a ground-floor manufacturing and administration hall with an open-plan office built by Reutlingen-based architect Schaper as the sole boss. Now the textiles produced only for baby and children's fashion circulated from weaving and knitting to dispatch on one level.

The company headquarters in the Weilheim district of Hechingen, built in 1970 by the Reutlingen architect Schaper

As in Tailfingen at the age of eight, three company apartments were added to the lower town of Hechingen at favorable rental conditions for employees. The grandson of the company founder now changed the company's economic strategy away from production with warehousing and reduced to just three sales representatives to supply the large department stores in Germany, which have become dominant customers, with a more direct distribution channel and quick sales.

In the following 30 years Hasana J. Hakenmüller made a name for herself with almost all major mail order companies in Germany, primarily with a Nicki sheared plush fabric . For Hasana's largest customers, Kaufring-Warenhaus AG as well as Quelle and C&A , instead of the Hasana label (logo with an elongated yellow "H" on a light blue background), their brand names were sewn into the shirt collar, such as Rodeo and Young Canda . Shipping chains in Austria, the Netherlands and Sweden were supplied to Hennes & Mauritz , and to Neue Warenhaus AG , Rheinbrücke (Basel), Jelmoli , Coop and Migros in Switzerland .

Hasana - World Cup T-Shirts 1974.jpg

In 1971, Hasana was granted the sole licensing rights for children's underwear from all clubs in the Bundesliga by the German Football Association (DFB). This led to an exclusive license for the 1974 World Cup in Germany, when Rolfdieter Hakenmüller suggested to the DFB that the official logo designed by the textile draftsman Horst Schäfer should also be used for textiles and that he received the exploitation rights for it. Most recently, Hasana J. Hakenmüller succeeded in acquiring the license to print the official mascot Goaliath of the European Football Championship in England exclusively for children's underwear in 1996 , and from 1995 to 2000 he designed a collection of casual outerwear under the name The Olympic Way for ice skaters as well as participants and visitors as the official sponsor of the 89th European Figure Skating Championships in Dortmund 1995 .

Hasana - figure skating fashions.jpg
Ice skating enthusiast company boss

Due to the extensive collection of textiles, each consisting of over 130 samples and models, twice a year, part of the production was relocated abroad and cooperated with other textile factories in order to relieve wage costs and due to a lack of specialist staff. First in what was then Yugoslavia, where Hasana's general agency was based in Zagreb (Croatia) for 15 years . From there, the companies Velebit (Zagreb), ´Nada`, Nitex in Niš and Planteks in Plandiste (Serbia), but also in Varaždin and Karlovac (Croatia), at Trigom Tim in Belgrade and Ecotex in Novi Sad and Bačka Topola (Serbia) and in Sarajevo as well as in Bosanska Gradiška (Bosnia) and PrimaTex in Skopje (Macedonia). In Yugoslavia, which worked according to a socialist planned economy until 1993, there were repeated major bottlenecks in raw materials, which is why J.Hakenmüller had to deliver some yarn and thread to the factories in question in order to enable the fabrics to be sewn.

Shortly before the outbreak of the Yugoslav wars in 1990, part of the production was relocated to Porto and to the Babex company in Guimaraes (Portugal), especially to Banská Bystrica (Slovakia) - there at the Slovanka company . Later also to Macedonia and Thessaloniki (Greece) and Győr (Hungary).

Finally, some samples were produced in Izmir , Turkey by the companies Aral and RADAR. The devastating earthquake in and around this place in 1999 was another major reason for Hasana J. Hakenmüller to stop his foreign production. In memory of the former employees in partner textile companies in Bosnia-Herzegovina, the company management hosted the German premiere of the official Olympic film A Turning Point ( A Turning Point) in the "Burgtheater" cinema in Hechingen for the benefit of refugees from the civil war in Yugoslavia in Tübingen and Hechingen ( Director Joe Jay Jalbert) about the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, at the instigation of and with the support of then IOC member and current IOC President Thomas Bach . The opening of the Hasana textile branch in Erkheim near Memmingen in Bavaria took place in the August days of the opening of the XX. 1972 Summer Olympics in Munich, when the Hasana boss gave his employees a set of the official silver coins from these games to commemorate them.

In 1996 the company Foxl-Young-Fashion from Winterlingen was taken over.

Logo of the company Foxl - Junge Mode in Winterlingen on the Swabian Alb near Albstadt-Ebingen, which was taken over by Hasana J.Hakenmüller in 1996

His first eldest, then youngest son as a business assistant could not agree on a common economic strategy. One pleaded for the purchase of further textile factories, the other neglected to build up an independent sales channel for the in-house brand ´Hasana` as a high-priced quality product, in addition to cheap goods for the wholesale mail order companies and dealers under foreign names due to his strong technical knowledge. Another main problem arose from the diverse production facilities in European countries with very different industrial positions. This caused delivery difficulties with material, timely dispatch and, time and again, the production of textiles that did not meet the high quality standard of Hasana-J.Hakenmüller (e.g. Nicki-Scherplüsch-Fashions) and therefore financially expensive in the head office in Germany and Hechingen-Weilheim had to be improved.

However, you can also see the whole thing from a different perspective: some large mail order companies (above all ´Quelle`) appreciated the strong creativity of their suppliers of clothes by paying a set of samples from their winter, autumn and summer collections According to the announcement, they were suitable for final selection and sale via catalog, but were actually copied by them and passed on to producers in low-wage countries in Southeast Asia. 'Adidas' had shown it in Albstadt-Tailfingen (see above).

Due to the increasing cost pressure from low-wage imports , especially from Southeast Asia, Rolfdieter Hakenmüller began preparing for a possible closure of his company as early as 1990. The liquidation of the company, while maintaining the trademark rights, took place without social hardship in December 2000, while the lending Volksbanks forced the company to give up. In 2000 the company song ´The Jackies`, commissioned by the Baiersbronn music group, was completed on the melody of Harold Faltermeyer's song The Challenge (1995).

literature

  • M. Hakenmüller: Branded clothes from the textile engineer. 150 years of the clothing industry in the Swabian Alb . In: Beautiful Swabia . No. 9 . Tübingen 1998, p. 24-26 .
  • Frank Müller: Hasana circumnavigated all the cliffs. The story of one of the oldest textile factories in the Zollernalb district. In: Reutlinger Generalanzeiger . April 8, 1994, p. 29 .

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Hasana: Official supplier of the ice skaters. (No longer available online.) In: Textilwirtschaft. January 24, 1995, formerly in the original ; Retrieved December 13, 2011 .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  2. ↑ Life in the changing world of Weilheim. In: Südwest Presse. June 24, 2011, archived from the original on February 2, 2016 ; Retrieved December 13, 2011 .
  3. ^ "Bauhaus" in Albstadt: the - sad - memory of the glorious past of the "Talgang jersey". In: Zollern-Alb Kurier. August 24, 2002, accessed February 6, 2018 .
  4. ^ Michael Hakenmüller: J. Hakenmüller - Fabrication. In: Wochenblatt für den Zollernalbkreis, Balingen, August 19, 1994, number 30
  5. ↑ Special edition "Der Wille", textile manufacturing in Württemberg, Balingen-Ebingen-Tailfingen, Balingen, 1934, p. 14
  6. ↑ When the fashion went downhill. The golden age of textile production. Part 2. In: Z..Zack. The culture and leisure magazine in the Zollernalbkreis + Tübingen / Reutlingen, December-January 1997/1998, pp. 22, 24-25
  7. ^ Letter from Karl Bitzer, owner of the textile factory Karl Bitzer zur Rose, Tailfingen, to Julius and Paul Hakenmüller on December 3, 1937 as a letter of congratulations on the 50th anniversary of J. Hakenmüller's company; Hasana Archive, Hechingen
  8. ↑ People, meshes, machines. The history of the mesh industry in the Albstadt area . Published by the city of Albstadt, edited by Susanne Goebel, collaboration: Werner Unseld, Albstadt, 1996, pp. 50–51.
  9. ↑ cf. also Susanne Goebel: Albstadt and the mesh industry. “Sports and jerseys” - in the mirror used to be advertising. In: Textile diversity. Industrial success stories from Württemberg. AK Textile in the Baden-Württemberg Museum Association, 2015, p. 37.
  10. ↑ In the little dress "Tilly" for the first victory at Wimbledon. What inspired the Swabian textile pioneer Paul Hakenmüller to create his designs. Opera arias and tennis cracks as role models. In: Zollernalbkurier, Balingen, May, 1994.
  11. ↑ District Administrator Roemer brought the Federal Cross of Merit. Honor of the fifties anniversary girl Maria Alber at the company J.Hakenmüller. In: Schmiecha-Zeitung, Tailfingen, September 13, 1956.
  12. ↑ see minutes of the meetings of the Tailfinger city council from the years 1921–1922; City archive Albstadt
  13. ^ Ceremonial address and lecture on the career of the J. Hakenmüller company on June 4, 1937 in the hotel "Zum weissen Rössl" in Oberammergau, given by Gottlieb Schöller, office manager; Hasana Archive, Hechingen.
  14. ^ Obituary by authorized signatory Gottlieb Schöller at the funeral of Paul Hakenmüller on May 2, 1942 in Tailfingen; Hasana Archive, Hechingen
  15. ↑ see statutes of the support association of the company J. Hakenmüller, Trikotwarenfabrik, Tailfingen, §§ 3 + 4, November 1951; Hasana Archive, Hechingen
  16. ↑ Michael Hakenmüller: Almost forgotten in Albstadt. The life and work of the architect Johann Miller; Parts I-IV; In: Zollernalbkurier, Balingen, September 8, 9, 17, 23, 2004.
  17. ↑ a b Ingrid Helber: Studies on industrial architecture in Albstadt. An architectural-historical study of the development from the beginning of industrialization to the Second World War with an outlook into the 1990s and a description of special features in industrial construction. Dissertation. Tübingen 1999.
  18. ↑ Michael Hakenmüller: Industry and architecture set highlights. With the demolition of the Bauhaus buildings on the rough Alb, a piece of regional industrial history was also destroyed. In: Schwarzwälder Bote, Oberndorf, March 8, 2003
  19. ↑ J. Hakenmüller - patent label; Hasana Archive, Hechingen
  20. ↑ Hasana: Underwear and outerwear for women, men and children for the whole family. In: tmbd, the brand search engine. Retrieved December 13, 2011 .
  21. ^ Letter from the NSDAP Gauleitung, Tailfingen, to J.Hakenmüller, from April 1937; and extract from the land register for the community of Schömberg, 1946; Hasana Archive, Hechingen.
  22. ↑ cf. corresponding letter, Main State Archives Stuttgart
  23. ↑ cf. Correspondence between the company J. Hakenmüller and the French governorate of Balingen; Hasana archive.
  24. ↑ cf. Volker Lässing: Nobody gets the devil - Otto Hahn and the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute for Chemistry in Tailfingen. Albstadt, 2011.
  25. ↑ cf. Stuttgart State Archives, Paul Hakenmüller's personal file.
  26. ↑ J. Hakenmüller - letters to July 20, 1944; Hasana-Archiv, Hechingen, Schwarzwälder Bote, Nagold, July 20, 2019 and at Wiki-Commons under “J. Hakenmüller "
  27. ↑ see machine directory for the questionnaire of the mayor's office Tailfingen on behalf of the government of the French military zone, Tübingen, August 9, 1945, item 4; Hasana Archive, Hechingen
  28. ↑ see below a. Letter from the Regional Directorate of Economy, Tübingen, July 3, 1946 (Hasana archive)
  29. ^ Report in the magazine Textil-Mitteilungen , Düsseldorf, December 11, 1952.
  30. ^ Karl Bergmann: The tricot industry in Tailfingen / Württemberg. An economics thesis from 1947 at the University of Tübingen . Tailfingen 1947.
  31. ↑ Text book for the exhibition BAuhAus. in AlbstAdt. Endangered cultural monuments or: How new building came to the Alb.
  32. ^ Exhibition in the Albstadt-Ebingen City Library, May 12 - June 20, 2003; Michael Hakenmüller.
  33. ^ Manufacturers directory German stocking museum, Reutlingen.
  34. ^ According to information from Hermann Bitzer, Kennedy-Ufer, Cologne and Tailfingen, 2015.
  35. ↑ cf. M. Hakenmüller: Princess or Cinderella. The level training. In: weekly paper for the Zollernalb district. January 26, 1996, p. 1.
  36. ↑ cf. Estate of the Friederich brothers' textile factory (ebona), Albstadt-Ebingen, in the economic archive of the University of Hohenheim.
  37. ↑ Thomas Kistner, Jens Weinreich: The Billionaire Game. Football, money and media . Frankfurt 1998.
  38. ↑ Michael Hakenmüller: When the “Bauhaus” came to the Alb - Tailfinger textile manufacturers as pioneers of modern industrial architecture . In: Swabian homeland . No. 2 . Stuttgart 2001, p. 12-15 .
  39. ^ NN: Today benefit evening, In: Hohenzollerische Zeitung, Hechingen, February 17, 1993

Web links

Commons : Hasana  - collection of images, videos and audio files