Fürstenried Castle

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Fürstenried Castle, entrance side
Fürstenried Castle, garden side

The Schloss Fürstenried located in the southwest of Munich . The Bavarian Elector Max Emanuel had it built as a hunting lodge by his court architect Joseph Effner between 1715 and 1717 . The entire ensemble includes Fürstenried Castle, an important baroque castle complex, and the avenue leading to the castle as well as the farm building that was formerly part of the castle. The symmetrical palace complex consists of the main pavilion and two pavilions connected to it by galleries, as well as other buildings. While the interiors of the palace complex have lost their historical and artistic value due to multiple renovations, the garden represents an extremely rare synthesis of baroque design and the contemporary taste of the second half of the 19th century. In the early 20th century, Fürstenried Palace was still known for its diversity its also foreign plant populations as a botanical attraction.

The fountain sculpture of a faun adorns the baroque part of the gardens of Fürstenried Palace
Old linden trees line one of the two garden cabinets at Fürstenried Palace

Location and history

settlement

As early as the 11th century, a perch from Polling Abbey built a clearing settlement on the site of today's castle . In 1194 Poschetsried came to Rottenbuch Abbey . In 1498, Bavarian Duke Albrecht IV acquired the settlement. After almost a hundred years (1593), the settlement again went to the Hörwarth family as Schwaige . In 1687, the reorganization of the Forstenrieder forest into a park suitable for hunting begins. In 1715, Elector Maximilian Emanuel acquired the Schwaige Poschetsried with a mansion from Count Ferdinand Hörwarth von Hohenburg.

location

The castle is located on a settlement terrace, which is slightly higher than the ground level of the Munich gravel plain. Originally located in the middle of fields, it was visible from afar due to this prominent location. “In addition, the area around Elector Max Emanuel's palaces was structured with avenues made of black poplar and plantations of black pines. The growth of the black pine, similar to that of the pines, together with the black poplars, was supposed to create a Mediterranean atmosphere and visually enhance the surrounding farmland (...) ”.

Line of sight with access avenues

In order to enable a stately driveway, an avenue between Nymphenburg Palace and Fürstenried Palace (today's Fürstenrieder Strasse ) was created as a kilometer-long connecting route. Another kilometer-long route lined with linden trees was built at the same time between the village of Mittersendling and Fürstenried Castle. When the avenues were created, this type of planting trees in rows for miles was largely unknown in old Bavaria. The imposing avenue from Mittersendling to Fürstenried Castle was also particularly long. Its importance is shown in its double row and the originally intervening tapis vert . The northern tower of the Frauenkirche appears to be the point de vue . It is possible that when the Fürstenried Palace was being built, the Munich Residence , located immediately to the side behind the Frauenturm, was also targeted. In addition to the kilometer-long line of sight, the Tapis vert as a "green lawn carpet" testified to power and wealth. There was no meadow here that could be grazed (the norm at the time). This was an extremely valuable area that had to be mowed with scythes every few days in summer during the morning dew. In order not to spoil them, earthworms and snails were flicked away with flagella beforehand. The gardeners then mowed the areas twice in a row with scythes. The effect was more noble (and more expensive to maintain) than any carpet bed planted with flowers , since lawnmowers were not invented until the 19th century. In 1935/36 the National Socialists began with the destruction by building over the green strip between the two avenues with the four-lane "Olympia-Straße" (today the Munich-Garmisch A 95 motorway ). The historical line of sight was recorded along the route, as Fritz Todt's planners tried to incorporate scenic attractions. Currently, despite the now dense surrounding development, an almost 1000 meter long line of sight still leads frontally to Fürstenried Castle, which is still lined on both sides by double-row lime tree avenues. Without considering the monument protection , this visual axis was severely impaired at the beginning of 2017 due to oversized, insensitive signage.

Water supply

The castle was supplied with water via a water pipe from the former Royal Hofbrunnwerke, which ran from Großhesselohe on the Isar along today's Hofbrunnstrasse in Solln .

Hunting and pleasure palace

Fürstenried Castle as seen from the gate around 1720
Carousel race at Fürstenried Castle, with Maria Amalia, driven by Karl Albrecht; Painting by Peter Jakob Horemans
The sculptor Dominikus Auliczek created this group of putti in 1778 as a fountain figure for the garden of Fürstenried Castle

In the years between 1715 and 1717, on behalf of Max II. Emanuel, the master builder Joseph Effner redesigned and enlarged the existing manor house, which was located in the middle of the deer hunting park known at the time , as a hunting and pleasure palace with a baroque garden. In Fürstenried renamed, it served during the 18th century as a center for prestigious Court hunting parties.

In 1727, for the birth of Prince Elector Max III. Joseph , the castle goes to the Electress Maria Amalie of Austria , the wife of the later Emperor Karl Albrecht , the son and successor of Elector Max II. Emanuel.

From 1777 until her death in 1797, the palace was used by Electress Maria Anna Sophia of Saxony , the wife of Max III. Joseph , after his death as a widow's residence. Shortly before the Electress's death, the final decline of her property began. Because in September 1796 Munich was surrounded by the French-Republican army that was fighting against the Austrian-Imperial troops. Fürstenried Castle was also burned in the process.

Wrought iron adorns the gate to Fürstenried Castle as a princely entrance.
Rare, valuable, exotic "cucumber magnolias", here with their fruit stands, representatively line the entrance gate of Fürstenried Castle

Further use

In 1798 the castle became a temporary asylum for some Trappist women who had fled from France . In the period from October 3 to October 24, 1800, the French Colonel Litay and his entire entourage were quartered in the castle. In the years 1801 to 1804, the newly organized artillery corps was barracked in the buildings of Fürstenried under the leadership of Major von Heinrichen. With these billeting at the beginning of the 19th century, all valuable objects such as furniture and paintings were removed. The castle stood empty, the garden was deserted.

With the introduction of compulsory schooling in Bavaria, an outbuilding of the castle was allowed to be used as the first schoolhouse for the surrounding villages of Forstenried and Großhadern between 1805 and 1824 due to the generosity of King Max Joseph I.

View of Fürstenried Castle around 1820. At that time, the affiliated Schwaige housed a new breed of animals as a model agricultural operation: Merino sheep.

From 1820 another military , a garrison of the riding artillery, was quartered, which was replaced from 1849 by the Queen's field artillery regiment . During the German War in 1866 and the Franco-German War in 1870/71, the castle was used as a military hospital .

After years of unsuccessful treatment, a quiet castle was sought for the sick Prince Otto of Bavaria , as his brother, King Ludwig II, refused to be placed in a psychiatric institution. The choice fell on Fürstenried Castle. At that time still rural and relatively far from the Munich city limits, a quiet place to stay could be created here. In 1881 the castle was bought and sold by the royal civil list to Prince Otto's property management team. From this point on, Fürstenried was its private property. For a multiple of the purchase price, the property was adapted to the needs of the patient in the following time. Otto, who was declared nominally king in 1886 after the death of Ludwig II , was housed in Fürstenried Castle until his death on October 11, 1916 . Fürstenried Castle thus became the domicile of the King of Bavaria. However, since the incorporation of Forstenried in 1912, the castle was in the urban area of ​​Munich.

After the First World War , the castle was used again as a hospital.

From 1925 the castle served as a retreat house for the diocese of Munich and Freising . From 1927 to 1957, the Archbishop's late professions seminar St. Matthias was housed here before it was moved to Wolfratshausen-Waldram , 30 kilometers south . The castle area was acquired by the Archdiocese in 1929 through the Fürstenried Catholic Church Foundation . In 1931 and 1932 a chapel was built into the central pavilion of the castle, in the former “White Hall”.

During the Second World War , the castle was used again as a military hospital from 1942, and again as a retreat house after the end of the war. The theological faculty of the Ludwig Maximilians University and the Georgianum seminary used the castle as an alternative accommodation from 1947 to 1949. During this time the future Cardinal and Pope Joseph Ratzinger also studied in Fürstenried.

Today's use and shape

The castle continues to serve as a retreat house and also as a school pastoral center and conference venue. From 1972 to 1976 the plant was modernized. It has been run by the Jesuit Father Christoph Kentrup since October 1st, 2013 .

As always, the castle consists of the cubic main building with two smaller pavilions on the side and several auxiliary buildings around a courtyard. From the once rich interior, however, only the surrounding wall frieze of the Blue Cabinet on the second floor of the main building has survived. Today it is a meeting room.

The garden of Fürstenried Castle

The kitchen garden

As early as the 18th century, high-quality vegetables and fruit were produced in the kitchen garden at Fürstenried Castle. The court gardeners excelled in the art of cultivating rare fruits and vegetables such as asparagus, artichokes, quinces and peaches in addition to everyday items. The beans and peas, which were popular at the time, were cultivated in cold frames almost all year round.

This tradition was resumed in the time of King Otto. The protected cultural garden on the south side of the so-called Remisenhaus enabled early harvests. The orchard, which was housed in the former "mold garden", had a population of espalier, bush and half-height trees.

The Schwaigbetrieb

The Schwaigbetrieb , i.e. the use of the agricultural land belonging to the castle, brought only moderate profits. In order to better manage the poor soils, sheep were also kept. Since 1829 these fields and meadows have been handed over to various tenants. In the buildings of the former Schwaighof there is now a popular, heavily frequented restaurant.

Schwaig operation of Fürstenried Castle from 1797.

The royal garden

After Fürstenried Castle came into the ownership of Prince Otto in 1881, the baroque garden behind the castle was reconstructed by Carl von Effner , the manager of the court garden at the time, based on the plans of his ancestor Joseph Effner. His closest colleague, Wilhelm Zimmermann, describes the desolate state in which the garden was at the beginning of the 1880s: “The former hedges had largely been removed, the artfully entwined borders and paths have disappeared. The whole ground floor formed a meadow, and under the venerable, sometimes enormous linden trees, a forest carpet of evergreens, ferns, epheu, anemones, snowdrops etc. had developed. "

Carl von Effner's great merit is the preservation of the 110 linden trees in the park and many more along the two double-row avenues that flank the line of sight towards Munich. For this purpose, a careful pruning was carried out and the soil in the root area was replaced.

The gold-plated crown on the side gate in the garden of Fürstenried Castle still reminds of King Otto of Bavaria.

As a concession to the zeitgeist of the time, the iron arcades, which are still partially available today, were planted with linden trees. In order to offer variety to the sick resident, Effner created rose borders, a winter garden , a rosarium and an evergreen garden. The depictions of the four seasons by the sculptor Bruno Fischer , which today flank the monumental fountain of Pan, were distributed in the different garden areas at the time of King Otto. The decorative stone vase in the central courtyard is still in the same place.

To the south of the old baroque garden, a kitchen garden that was considered to be dispensable was redesigned into an “English layout”. The rich planting of this landscape park from the time of King Otto is still in ruins today. Modeling the wood edges was a special concern of Carl von Effner. So flanked “strong bushes, z. B. Crataegusarten or the small-leaved lilacs, which are always preferable because of its relaxed, picturesque costume ... the Lisiere. "

“For obvious reasons, the entire property was surrounded by a high wall. The desire to gain a view nonetheless made one think of opening up a free view through an artificial elevation, undisturbed by the enclosure, to forests, villages and the beautiful wreath of distant mountains. "The elevation was originally from a" Schweizerhaus ", a small wooden house , crowned. Today there is a chapel here. The former "deer basin" in the eastern area of ​​the garden is now adorned by a figure of Brother Konrad von Parzham .

The landscaped garden, which is around two days in size, should invite you to take a walk. Remains of the extensive planting described by Wilhelm Zimmermann still exist here today. There are two old slit-leaved beeches, which, like the cucumber magnolias at the entrance gate, are rare dendrological treasures.

“After the death of King Otto, all his assets were listed. The estate list of February 7, 1918 also lists the furnishings of the courtyard garden, fountain sculptures, benches, Swiss house, plants with 14,558 marks. A considerable sum if you include the depreciation after almost 40 years. "

literature

  • Utta Bach: The garden culture at the Munich court under Elector Max Emanuel 1679–1726. Munich 2007.
  • Josef Martin Forster: The French in front of Munich in 1796. Munich 1896.
  • Lothar Altmann: Fürstenried Castle, retreat house of the Archdiocese of Munich-Freising. Lindenberg 2005.
  • Geord Dehio: Handbook of German Art Monuments, Bavaria IV: Munich and Upper Bavaria. Munich 1990.
  • Franz Xaver Kriegelsteiner: Fürstenried Castle and its history. Munich 1932.
  • Manfred Stefan: Biographies of European garden artists, Carl von Effner. In: Stadt und Grün / Das Gartenamt. 1998.
  • Wilhelm Zimmermann: The royal gardens of Upper Bavaria. Berlin 1903.
  • Doris Fuchsberger: Garden research Fürstenried. Munich 2012.

Web links

Commons : Schloss Fürstenried  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b Doris Fuchsberger: Garden Research Fürstenried, Munich 2012. P. 11.
  2. Course of the water pipe to the castle in position sheets 713 and 714, approx. 1860
  3. https://www.jesuiten.org/aktuelles/details/article/exerzitienhaus-schloss-fa14rstenried-unter-neuer-leitung.html
  4. ^ A b Wilhelm Zimmermann: The royal gardens of Upper Bavaria. Berlin 1903, p. 26.
  5. ^ Wilhelm Zimmermann: The royal gardens of Upper Bavaria, Berlin 1903, pp. 18/19

Coordinates: 48 ° 5 ′ 39 ″  N , 11 ° 29 ′ 14 ″  E