Toast Hawaii

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Toast Hawaii

Toast Hawaii or Hawaii Toast is one with ham , pineapple and cheese occupied, au gratin Toast , in West Germany became popular in the 1950s.

preparation

Steak Hawaii

To prepare it, lightly toasted toasted bread is buttered, topped with a slice of cooked ham or raw ham, pineapple and cheese (usually processed cheese ) and baked . It is also common to put a cocktail cherry , cranberries or the like on the finished toast or to season it with a little sweet paprika powder . Other dishes with pineapple and cheese are prepared in a similar way, for example Hawaiian pizza or Hawaiian steak . The advantages mentioned are the low use of material and preparation time.

A great number of variations arose; TV chef Tim Mälzer presented a “modern” variant in the 2010s with black bread, Serrano ham and Manchego cheese , and Johann Lafer also created a variant.

Emergence

The invention of the toast Hawaii is generally attributed to the television chef Clemens Wilmenrod , who first presented it in Germany in 1955. Presumably Wilmenrod took over the recipe from his competitor and teacher Hans Karl Adam .

According to the historian Petra Foede , it may be a variant of the grilled Spamwich that is widespread in the USA and that has been slightly adapted to German conditions. His recipe uses Spam ( breakfast meat ) instead of boiled ham and grated cheese instead of a slice of cheese, but otherwise does not differ. The recipe was first published in 1939 in the recipe booklet Hormel invites you to dine by the spam manufacturer Hormel . Unlike cooked ham, however, Spam was not available in German retail outlets. The publicist Jürgen Ahrens sees a forerunner of the Toast Hawaii in the French Croque Monsieur .

Cancer risk

Due to the composition of the ingredients, the Hawaiian toast and similarly composed dishes have the potential to form carcinogenic nitrosamines from nitrites in the curing salt of ham and the amino acids of cheese in the acidic environment of pineapples. Investigations by the food technology department at the Technical University of Applied Sciences in Berlin , however, did not reveal any increased nitrosamine levels.

distribution

Hawaii toast was part of the weekly menu of many families until the 1970s and became a popular dish in pubs, party rooms and bowling alleys in the 1980s. Meanwhile, according to Marin Trenk 2015, a pineapple dish in Germany is mainly associated with Hawaiian pizza . Unlike this globally widespread food, the Hawaii toast has remained a purely German phenomenon, according to n-tv journalist Heidi Driesner. About ten years after its introduction, the Hawaiian Toast also found its way into the kitchen of the GDR , but was limited to restaurants there. In contrast, the Karlovy Vary slice was popular in everyday kitchens, because it did without pineapple and instead of the boiled ham - hunting sausage or meat loaf , which is rarely offered in shops - was used. In Austria, the toast Hawaii was one of the markers of Americanization in the 1950s, but the Hawaiian schnitzel even more . The dish has also been known in Switzerland since the 1950s; the culture journalist Daniel Di Falco names the restaurant at Zurich-Kloten Airport as one of the first to serve the dish in Switzerland around 1960. According to the St. Galler Tagblatt, it is now considered to be a “proletarian toast ” and in 2013 was one of the ten most Googled recipes.

reception

The toast Hawaii is considered an object of German cultural history . On its 60th anniversary, the Süddeutsche Zeitung wrote that few other dishes had been discussed as passionately as this polarizing one. The mixture of “provincial and at the same time… extravagance” shows the “expression of an attitude towards life for entire generations”: canned tropical fruits would have stood for their availability regardless of the climate, toast for America, boiled ham for middle-class. The toast Hawaii brought a “touch of the exotic” into everyday life and was thus part of the demonstrative consumption of post-war Germany . According to journalist Gudrun Rothaug, the dish “bundled the longings of an entire era in a few square centimeters of wheat bread”: “The lavish combination of ham and cheese demonstrated the newly gained prosperity, pineapple and cocktail cherries expressed the longing for the wide world.” According to the Historian Petra Foede, the dish also stands for turning away from traditional stomach fillers such as stew or dumplings, while Ulrich Herbert points out that eating habits in the 1950s were not shaped by “modern” dishes like this one, but by “bread, sausage, potatoes and meat ”.

The media scientist Gerd Hallenberger pointed out that the exotic could also be understood as a compensation for the still noticeable shortage in the post-war kitchen as well as for the still unaffordable vacation trips to distant countries. The Toast Hawaii brought the - at first internationally isolated - German citizens “a piece of new normality” and connection to “the (culinary) world culture”, namely “through incorporation qua eating”. The dish, consisting of simple ingredients, conveyed South Sea romance through the exotic name and indicated a reconciliation of the vanquished with the victorious USA and their liberal lifestyle - and thus opened up spaces of longing.

According to Josef Joffe , the dish is often associated with philistine bourgeoisie , but stands for a "milestone on the way to modernity and out of the provinces". The toast Hawaii also found its way into popular culture. Loriot satirically alluding to this fashion with his “Florida shank of veal”, as did Gerhard Polt with “Leberkäs Hawaii”. A musical bears the name of the toast, and the NDR television film It's on my tongue about the creator also dealt with his creation in 2009. The music producer Alexander Marcus achieved media attention in 2014 with the Hawaii Toast Song , in which he sings about the dish. The song was viewed over seven million times on the YouTube video portal .

Web links

Commons : Toast Hawaii  - Collection of Pictures, Videos and Audio Files
Wiktionary: Toast Hawaii  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. a b c Heidi Driesner: Stacked by the "Fernwehkoch" ":" Toast Hawaii "is 60. In: n-tv.de , January 24, 2015.
  2. a b c Michael Neudecker: 60 Years Toast Hawaii: Vacation on Bread. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung , December 13, 2015.
  3. Matthias Stelte: Clemens Wilmenrod: Inventor of the toast Hawaii. In: NDR.de , December 16, 2008.
  4. a b Petra Foede: Battle of the Cooks: There is no toast in Hawaii. In: Frankfurter Rundschau , February 4, 2011.
  5. "Grilled Spamwich. Cover slices of buttered toast with sliced ​​Spam. Top with sections of canned pineapple; sprincle with grated cheese. Place under broiler until cheese melts. “ Hormel invites you to dine. Hormel Foods Corporation, Austin, Minnesota, 1939.
  6. Petra Foede: Discovered: Spamwich - the model for Toast Hawaii? ( Memento from March 11, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) In: Petrafoede.de , January 23, 2010.
  7. Jürgen Ahrens: How German is that ?: The most popular misconceptions about Germany and the Germans. Heyne, Munich 2013, chapter Toast Hawaii .
  8. Dagmar Wiechoczek: Toxic nitrogen compounds in foods. In: Rüdiger Blume u. a .: Prof. Blum's educational server for chemistry. February 6, 2007.
  9. Udo Pollmer , Susanne Warmuth: Lexicon of popular nutritional errors. Eichborn, Frankfurt am Main 2001, ISBN 3-8218-1615-5 .
  10. Marin Trenk: Doner Hawaii. Our globalized food. Klett-Cotta, Stuttgart 2015, p. 78 (e-book).
  11. Irene Bandhauer-Schöffmann , Ella Hornung: From the pea sausage to the Hawaiian schnitzel. Gender-specific effects of the hunger crisis and the feeding wave. In: Thomas Albrich, Klaus Eisterer, Michael Gehler , Rolf Steininger (eds.): Austria in the fifties (= Innsbruck research on contemporary history. Volume 11). Österreichischer Studien-Verlag, Innsbruck, Vienna 1995, p. 11–34, here p. 27 f.
  12. ^ Daniel Di Falco: Toast bread. In: Migros.ch ; Adam and Eve in the sea buckthorn berry paradise. In: Tages-Anzeiger , January 10, 2014.
  13. Annette Wirthlin: A toast to the Proletentoast. In: Tagblatt.ch , January 27, 2015.
  14. What is Switzerland cooking? In: Migros Magazin , December 23, 2013.
  15. Michael Jäckel: Introduction to the sociology of consumption: Questions - Controversies - Example texts. VS Verlag, Wiesbaden 2004, p. 106.
  16. Gudrun Rothaug: From Toast Hawaii to Döner. Eating in Germany. In: Utz Thimm, Karl-Heinz Wellmann (Ed.): On everyone's lips. Diet today. Suhrkamp, ​​Frankfurt am Main 2004, ISBN 3-518-45602-4 , p. 81.
  17. ^ Ulrich Herbert: History of Germany in the 20th Century. CH Beck, Munich 2014, ISBN 978-3-406-66051-1 , p. 683.
  18. ^ Gerd Hallenberger: Clemens Wilmenrod. Signs of food culture. In: montage / av. Journal of Theory and History of Audiovisual Communication. Volume 10, 2001, No. 2: Eat! Drink! To celebrate! , P. 123–129, here p. 127 montage-av.de (PDF)
  19. Josef Joffe: Toast Hawaii. In: Michael Miersch , Henryk M. Broder , Josef Joffe, Dirk Maxeiner : Everything used to be better: A ruthless look back. Knaus, Munich 2010, p. 150 and p. 114 (Partykeller, quote).
  20. Antonia Bretschkow: Fancy a toast Hawaii? In: Der Tagesspiegel , October 16, 2014.
  21. Samir H. Köck: After the toast he sings about "Hundi". In: Die Presse , October 5, 2014.