Traditional costumes in Baden

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Girl with Gutacher costume wears the Bollenhut, which has become a symbol for the Black Forest.

In the area of ​​the former Grand Duchy of Baden , the tradition of folk costumes is maintained in Baden . The individual Baden folk costumes are described in separate articles.

history

While in the Middle Ages and early modern times dress codes and - often war-related - poverty prevented the formation of colorful costumes, folk costumes in the sense understood today emerged in the middle of the 18th century. Dress codes that reduced the peasants' clothing to black, gray and brown were no longer enforced or were dropped and after the wars of the French King Louis XIV there was a quieter phase, which enabled the farmers in fertile areas to achieve a certain level of prosperity. "Poverty was not a soil on which traditional costumes could thrive."

Traditional costumes were created by holding on to elements of outdated clothing fashion and were shaped by local dignitaries . The urban fashions of Basel and Strasbourg as well as - in the case of men's costumes - the military uniforms influenced the formation of the traditional costumes.

The traditional costume areas are not based on scenic, religious or tribal borders, but on the rule and administrative borders of the pre-Napoleonic period. Although the costume is basically directed against fashion, it was also subject to constant adaptations and differentiations. There is no traditional Baden or Württemberg costume, but rather a variety of traditional costumes that have developed on a small scale. The alignment of the traditional costume areas to the old rulership borders can be shown very clearly using the example of the Markgräfler costume . It was worn in the Badisches Oberland , the by no means contiguous areas of the margraviate Baden-Durlach south of the Kinzig . The Hauensteiner or Hotzenwälder costume spread in an administrative district in Upper Austria . The state reorganization of the southwest of Germany ordered by Napoleon Bonaparte created new structures such as the Grand Duchy of Baden, which on the one hand had to form a state identity and on the other hand wanted to secure acceptance for the new state by promoting regional identities. The people wearing traditional costumes were sure of the benevolence of the authorities.

In the Grand Duchy of Baden

From September 11th to 13th, 1838, a central festival of German farmers took place in Karlsruhe and traditional costume wearers from all parts of Baden were called up for a pageant. Johann Baptist Tuttiné , who specializes in traditional costume painting , was commissioned to organize a large parade with traditional costume wearers in Karlsruhe. On September 22, 1881, a historical pageant took place in Karlsruhe, in which several thousand protagonists took part. The move took place on the occasion of the silver wedding of the Grand Duke couple and the marriage of their two daughter Viktoria to the Swedish Crown Prince Gustav . Over 100,000 onlookers lined the streets along the procession. Of the seven sections of the historical pageant, section VI in particular met with great interest from the public. The approximately 800 participants in this department were divided into three groups, which led a green, a silver and a gold wedding couple on floats in their midst. What made it special were the costumes that the people in Department VI wore. This was intended to show the cultural diversity of Baden. In everyday life, however, traditional costumes no longer played a major role at this time and were only worn in a few areas - the Baden traditional costumes were predominantly Black Forest costumes. That is why the organizer of Department VI, the painter Johann Baptist Tuttiné, was forced to have traditional costumes that are no longer in existence.

In 1885, on the occasion of the marriage of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Baden, Friedrich and Hilda von Nassau , Tuttiné organized another pageant with over 1000 people in traditional costumes for September 26th in Karlsruhe.

The pastor and writer Heinrich Hansjakob and the traditional costume painter Wilhelm Hasemann established traditional costumes in Baden. As a result of Hansjakob's book Our Folk Costumes - A Word for Preservation , published in 1892, the Association for Preservation of Traditional Costumes in Gutach - Kinzigthal was founded in Hausach in 1894 as the first Baden costume association . Subsequently, further traditional costume associations were brought into being and in 1895 the Baden folk costume association was founded. Hilda , the wife of the then Hereditary Grand Duke Friedrich von Baden , took over the patronage of the traditional costume clubs. "The traditional costumes in their regional forms were suitable for symbolically representing the population of the country in their entirety on certain occasions." Voices that opposed the euphoria of traditional costumes like the pastor Richard Nutzinger from Gutach could not slow it down.

On September 29, 1895, the folk costume association Freiburg and the surrounding area organized a large costume parade in Freiburg. Shortly before that, a large costume parade was carried out in Strasbourg with homage, the mood in 1895 was marked by the 25th anniversary celebrations to commemorate the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71 .

On June 4, 1899, a costume parade also took place in Haslach with around 2,000 people wearing traditional costumes, and on October 3, 1912, the last major costume festival before the First World War was held in Wolfach . The grand ducal family performed regularly on these occasions and pledged their support to the traditional costume clubs.

After the First World War

In the 1920s, the cultivation of customs experienced an upswing, with traditional costume clubs being founded and traditional costumes created in areas that were previously free of traditional costumes. Here - as in some cases before - we are dealing with a so-called invented tradition . In 1924 Heimattage took place in Karlsruhe, to which groups from the French-occupied Palatinate and Saarland also came - the costume meetings increasingly took on a national character. The research and documentation of the costumes continued during this time. In tourist areas, the traditional costume clubs contributed to the entertainment. However, the traditional costume in daily life increasingly disappeared. The Baden folklorist Hermann Eris Busse came to the conclusion as early as 1934 that the traditional costume had historically been lived out.

The National Socialist folklorist Eugen Fehrle from Baden worked as part of the Kampfbund for German Culture , which organized a costume show in Karlsruhe in 1933. According to Fehrle, peasantry should be celebrated in the highest honor at traditional costume festivals and not just a curiosity.

In his book Die Tracht am Oberrhein , the National Socialist Rudi Keller was only interested in maintaining the idea of ​​folk-conscious clothing, which was ultimately achieved more easily with the uniforms of the various Nazi organizations. In Baden, attempts to renew the national socialist costumes had hardly any effect on wearers and clubs and were only carried out through the Nazi organizations.

After the Second World War

For traditional costumes and traditional associations in the area of ​​the old state of Baden , there has been the Federation "Heimat und Volksleben" eV (BHV) since 1949 as an umbrella organization based in Freiburg im Breisgau . The core of the association is the Black Forest People's Life Working Group founded in 1948 , which from May 1949 onwards called itself the Bund "Heimat und Volksleben" eV (BHV). Leo Wohleb , the state president of the state of Baden , sponsored the association, as well as other associations that served to maintain the Baden identity and thus supported his efforts to maintain a state of Baden. The BHV and its member associations - especially in the districts of the administrative district of Freiburg - organize the district costume festivals. The attitude of the traditional costume associations has changed over time. In the beginning, people wearing traditional costumes who did not also wear traditional costumes in everyday life were not wanted at traditional costume festivals, which would lead to the dissolution of the associations today, as hardly anyone wears traditional costume privately even on festive days.

In Baden-Württemberg there is also the state association of the home and costume associations Baden-Württemberg eV , which joined the German costume association in 2000 . Members of the regional association include the Southwest German Gauverband der Heimat- und Trachtenvereine eV , an umbrella association of Württemberg and North Baden traditional and traditional costume associations. The BHV is also a member of the regional association. The Bodensee-Heimat- und Trachtenverband eV and the Trachtengau Schwarzwald eV , the working group of singing, dancing and playing circles in Baden-Württemberg eV and the Trachtenjugend Baden-Württemberg eV are also members. In addition, two associations of expellees from the formerly German-populated areas of Eastern Central Europe are represented in the regional association, who continue to cultivate their customs here.

Costumes today

"Traditional costume as we are generally shown today is club dress that turns the former festive clothing of a certain place or landscape into a local emblem." Traditional costume wearers continue to be a popular subject of advertising for tourism and product brands.

Traditional costume museums in Baden

The Black Forest costume museum shows with over 100 traditional costume figures in original size an overview of the variety of traditional costumes in the Black Forest. The Seebach Trachtenmuseum has also specialized, while many local museums in Baden show exhibits on the respective local costume.

Baden costumes as a motif in art

The earliest evidence of Baden folk costumes can be found in the engravings by Johann Martin Will (1727–1806) and Samuel Gränicher (1758–1813). Poets like Johann Peter Hebel described traditional costumes in their works and writers like Victor Hugo dealt with the traditional costumes of the region traveled in travel reports. Painters such as Lucian Reich (1817–1900) and Johann Baptist Kirner (1806–1866) show traditional Baden costumes in the mid-19th century. Rudolf Gleichauf (1826–1896), Georg Maria Eckert (1828–1901) and Johann Baptist Tuttiné (1838–1889) found not only motifs in the costumes, but were also collectors of old costumes. Wilhelm Hasemann (1850–1813) and Curt Liebich (1868–1837) founded the Gutach artist colony , which widely spread the traditional costume motif, with postcards also being an important success factor.

Hasemann not only made the Bollenhut of the Gutacher costume the trademark of the Black Forest, but also contributed to the redesign of the costume. The emphasis on the Bollen (red wool roses) led to an increasing emphasis on the hat. “The originally so modest wool roses gradually grew to oversize.” After the First World War, the operetta Das Schwarzwaldmädel was filmed for the first time. The home film Schwarzwaldmädel from 1950 had a much higher number of visitors and the costume shown there shaped the image of the Black Forest worldwide.

It is noticeable that the Baden costumes also met with great interest in France and a number of publications on Baden costumes in French appeared in the first half of the 19th century.

  • Édouard Pingret : Grand Duché de Bade , Paris 1828
  • Jan Nepomucen Lewicki: Costumes d'Alsace et de bade d'après nature , Strasbourg 1834
  • Théodore Valério: Costumes du Grand-Duché de Bade et des bords du Rhin , Paris 1841
  • Charles Lallemand : Les paysans badois , Strasbourg 1860

literature

  • Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, ISBN 3-7617-0248-5 .
  • Heinz Schmitt: Traditional Baden costumes in the past and present. In: Badische Heimat, Volume 63 (1983), pp. 191–198 pdf; accessed on April 19, 2019
  • Heinz Schmitt: Heinrich Hansjakob and the question of traditional costumes. In: Badische Heimat, Volume 67 (1987), pp. 97-103 pdf; on April 19, 2019
  • Ulrike Höflein: From dealing with rural costume: Aspects of bourgeois motivated enthusiasm for traditional costume in Baden from the 19th century to the present , 1988, ISBN 978-3820486759 .
  • Ernst Schneider: Folklore property in Heinrich Hansjakob's writings. Folk costumes In: Die Ortenau , p. 174 digitized
  • Joseph Bader : Baden folk customs and costumes: with 24 to 30 steel engravings a. colored leaves. Karlsruhe 1843 digitized
  • Ludovico Wolfgang Hart , Charles Lallemand (editor) : Galerie universelle des peuples: Grandduché de Bade , Strasbourg 1865.
  • Charles Lallemand : Black Forest folk costumes: sixteen original photos , Strasbourg, Schmidt, 1885 digitized
  • Charles Lallemand: Les Paysans Badois. Esquisse de moeurs et de coutumes. Texts et designs by Charles Lallemand , Strasbourg, Salomon. Libraire, Rue des Serruriers 31 (Typographie de G. Silbermann), 1860. Digitized

Web links

Commons : Badische Trachten  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files
Wikisource: Baden - Folklore  - Sources and full texts

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ see also: Category: Folk costume (Baden)
  2. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 7.
  3. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 8.
  4. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 7.
  5. ^ Friedrich von Weech: Karlsruhe. History of the city and its administration. Volume II, Karlsruhe 1898, pp. 115-118
  6. ^ Friedrich von Weech: Karlsruhe. History of the city and its administration. III. Volume, Karlsruhe 1904, p. 519 (September 22, 1881)
  7. ↑ s. Schmitt (Trachtenpflege), p. 193.
  8. ^ Friedrich von Weech: Karlsruhe. History of the city and its administration. III. Volume, Karlsruhe 1904, p. 542
  9. ^ The moving-in celebrations II. In: Badischer Beobachter of September 29, 1885, no. 219
  10. ↑ Alois Krafczyk: The preservation of the national costumes was very important to him - 100 years ago the pastor, writer and politician Dr. Heinrich Hansjakob. In: Lichtgang, Volume 66, Issue 1/2016, p. 35 pdf accessed on September 24, 2017
  11. ↑ s. Schmitt (Trachtenpflege), p. 192.
  12. ↑ see his writing The Preservation of Folk Costumes. - A warning. Zell im Wiesental 1896.
  13. ↑ Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhuttracht. Development, maintenance, marketing. In: Die Ortenau: Journal of the Historical Association for Middle Baden , 69th annual volume. 1989, pp. 451–452 digitized
  14. ↑ Freiburg newspaper, September 29, 1895
  15. ↑ Freiburg newspaper October 1, 1895
  16. ^ The Trachtenfest .. In: Freiburger Zeitung of June 6, 1899 (daily edition)
  17. ↑ The traditional costume festival in Wolfach. In: Freiburger Zeitung of October 4, 1912 (1st morning edition)
  18. ↑ quoted in Schmitt (Trachtenpflege), p. 195.
  19. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 84.
  20. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 86.
  21. ↑ s. Schmitt (Trachtenpflege), p. 195.
  22. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 87.
  23. ^ Homepage of the association; Retrieved October 6, 2014
  24. ↑ see Höflein p. 145.
  25. ^ Homepage of the association; Retrieved October 6, 2014
  26. ^ Homepage of the association; Retrieved October 6, 2014
  27. ^ Homepage of the association; accessed on August 29, 2017
  28. ^ Homepage of the association; accessed on August 29, 2017
  29. ^ Homepage of the association; accessed on August 29, 2017
  30. ^ Homepage of the association; accessed on August 29, 2017
  31. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 7.
  32. ↑ Entry on webmuseen.de; accessed on October 10, 2017
  33. ^ Heinz Schmitt: Folk costume in Baden. Their role in art, the state, economy and society for two centuries , Karlsruhe 1988, p. 15.
  34. ↑ Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhuttracht. Development, maintenance, marketing. In: Die Ortenau: Journal of the Historical Association for Middle Baden , 69th annual volume. 1989, p. 444 digitized