bagel

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Plain bagel, New York style

A bagel , sometimes also written Beigel (from English bagel or bekel [ ˈbeɪgəl ]), this from Yiddish בײגל bejgl or bajgl or in YIVO transcription beygl ), is a palm -sized round pastry made from yeast dough with a hole in the middle. Bagels are briefly boiled in water before baking. The hole in the middle speeds up the cooking process and increases crust formation when baking.

The bagels, first documented in Jewish sources in Krakow in 1610 , were probably made in Central or Eastern Europe. At the end of the 19th century, they were introduced to the United States and Canada by Eastern European Jewish immigrants . They have been part of everyday nutritional life there since the 1970s and have since spread around the world as typical American baked goods.

variants

Making handcrafted bagels, Montreal, Canada

In North America today there are two variants of the bagel, the "New York-Style Bagel" and the "Montreal-Style Bagel", usually referred to as " New York Bagel" and " Montreal Bagel". The former are traditionally made from a dough made from wheat flour with a high gluten content , water, yeast , malt and salt . The dough is often refrigerated for several hours. Chilling the dough before cooking delays fermentation and improves taste and crust formation. The pastry, formed from strands of dough into rings, is briefly boiled in water and then baked. In addition to the “plain” bagel, there are numerous variations, with poppy seeds , sesame seeds , onions or with sweet ingredients such as raisins and cinnamon or blueberries . “New York Bagels” are also made from rye flour or sourdough , and on St. Patrick's Day , the memorial day in honor of the Irish national saint, they are also available in green.

The “Montreal Bagel” has no salt, eggs are added to the dough and honey is added to the cooking water . "Montreal Bagels" are usually sprinkled with poppy or sesame seeds and baked in a wood oven. They're a bit smaller and sweeter than New York Bagels and have a bigger hole in the middle.

The traditional hand-made bagels available in London and other cities in Great Britain , some of which still use the spelling “Beigel” in England, are similar to those from New York, but are somewhat smaller and harder. In the UK, however, industrially manufactured bagels are made in the style of the New York bagel and marketed as such.

shape

Bagels are round and have a more or less large hole in the middle. The cooking process means that the dough rings keep their shape during baking, creating the hard, shiny crust that is typical of bagels. The hole makes the bagels lighter, they cook faster, and extra crust forms as they bake. The hole was initially used for easier removal when cooking and for transport (strung on strings or wooden poles). Bagels were sold in this form in Eastern Europe in bakeries as well as at market stalls and on the street - often without a permit - and this type of bagels was delivered in New York until the 1970s.

Bagel cutter

A handmade “New York Bagel” weighed less than 100 grams in the middle of the 20th century. Since then the bagels have gotten bigger and bigger. The fact that bagels are increasingly being eaten as sandwiches and not, as was originally the case, without ingredients, is said to be responsible for this development . The ideal size for bagels is around ten centimeters in diameter.

Bagels available in North America that differ in shape from classic bagels include flagels, bagels that are flattened before baking, giant bagels for parties and receptions, and even square bagels. In the UK, the market leader is offering limited edition heart-shaped bagels for Valentine's Day , which are available online for free on Facebook .

consistency

Bagels must have an intense taste and a thick, shiny crust and must only be soft on the inside, at least according to the Bagel Mavens, as bagel connoisseurs in the USA like to call it after the Yiddish word מבֿין ( meiwn, German "expert"). Fresh bagels harden quickly and should therefore be eaten within five hours, preferably while they are still warm.

If bagels are to be coated with cream cheese or eaten as sandwiches, they are cut open. Since slicing often leads to injuries due to the hard crust, the bagel cutter was invented for slicing. Individual manufacturers sell bagels that have already been sliced. However, soft bagels are better for making sandwiches. Often they are toasted on the underside before they are topped.

Origin of the pastry and the name

Ivan Semjonowitsch Kulikow, Market, 1910

Origin of the pastry

The place and time at which the bagel was made are unknown. Ring-shaped biscuits have been known since ancient times, for example the sesame ring from late antiquity . Even Egyptian hieroglyphs show a ring-shaped pastry. Shortly boiling a pastry before baking it also goes back to old traditions. The oldest surviving evidence that mentions bagels is the ordinance of the Krakow Jewish community of 1610. Leo Rosten writes in his popular 1968 book The Joys of Yiddish that bagels were given to women in childbirth. Rosten's simplified representation is based on the Polish-Jewish historian Meir Balaban, who died in the Warsaw ghetto . According to this source, it was a common pastry that was offered along with plaited bread and cake at family celebrations. According to Claudia Roden , the bagel, like the plaited bread, originally goes back to southern Germany and then got its definitive form in Jewish Poland.

A widespread legend, however, says that bagels were only brought to Vienna in 1683 in honor of King John III. Sobieskis who was a great horse lover. The name would then be derived from stirrups (stirrups). However, according to Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, the same legend is rumored for the invention of other culinary achievements.

According to another legend, bagels were invented in the 9th century in a remote area of Prussia , where the Christian population denied Jews the right to eat or bake bread. A decree of the local prince decreed that only what was baked can count as bread. The Jews then ate the dough instead of baking it, boiled it and ate it lightly toasted.

Another explanation is given by Joan Nathan , who cites the Beigel family, Jewish bakers from Krakow. In Eastern Europe, many Jews were peddlers and often out and about. According to Jewish religious laws, hands must be washed and a blessing pronounced over the bread before eating bread. By boiling them before baking, bagels would have lost their status as bread and, like pasta, could be eaten on the go without washing your hands, where clean water was often not available.

Origin of the designation

The name of the pastry, Yiddish bejgl, is a vice was -el dissipation of Middle High German bouc, bouge or gleichbedeutendem althochdeutschem boug . Etymologically identical is Bavarian Beigel, Beugel "croissant". The Polish begiel, bugiel, bygiel , on the other hand, is probably borrowed from Yiddish, it was first documented in the 16th century for the meaning of Obwarzanek , next to it a bajgiełe with the meaning of "Jewish Obwarzanek" is attested. The latter could also be a new loan from the 19th century.

In Northeast and South Yiddish, which was spoken in Lithuania and the Ukraine , the pronunciation is bejgl, in Centraleast Yiddish , which was particularly at home in present-day Poland, it was bajgl . In the 1880s, Eastern European Jewish emigrants brought the pastries to New York and Canada, where the Yiddish bejgl / bajgl became the equally pronounced bagel in the American-English spelling . In London, where the bagel was introduced about the same as in New York, the spelling of the Yiddish remained standing closer letters beigel get, but it is increasingly being replaced by the American today.

Bejgl / bajgl remains in Yiddish in plural unchanged, in English, however, is a plural with -s, so bagels, formed which is often taken in German.

distribution

Bagels are increasingly being offered around the world and sold as American pastries under the supposedly English name of bagels because their European-Jewish origin is unknown .

German-speaking area

The Focus market analysis of 2002 describes bagels as the “number one snack hit” in Germany and reports a “bagel wave” with the first bagel bars in the big cities.

They are still offered under their almost original name as Beigerl or Beugerl in the Austrian-Bavarian region, but here in a semicircular shape , like croissants or croissants.

Great Britain

Beigel Bake, Brick Lane, London

Bagels were introduced to Britain by Eastern European immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, but remained largely unknown outside of the Eastern Jewish community. It was not until the late 20th century that they became popular as an American specialty, albeit primarily as a breakfast pastry. In 2011, 378 million bagels sold for £ 60 million, a 26 percent increase over the previous year. More than three-quarters of this is accounted for by the industrially manufactured bagels of the main supplier, a Canadian company that markets its packaged bagels under the name "New York Bakery Bagels". In the formerly Jewish East End of London there are still two traditional bagel bakeries, Beigel Bake and Beigel Shop, as well as a Jewish bakery that also sells Beigel.

Ireland

Bagels have been known in Ireland since the late 20th and early 21st centuries. American-style green bagels are offered on St. Patrick's Day. Bagels are not considered bread by the Irish government, but, like croissants and other baked goods, are luxury pastries and have been subject to a VAT of 13.5 percent since December 2011 , while bread is exempt from the tax.

Israel and Palestine

Palestinian ka'ak

The Eastern European immigrants in Israel baked Beygl that the New York Times as " a rock-hard biscuit ring " ( translation a rock-hard annular pastries described), have been largely replaced in Israel since the late 20th century by the American bagel. There is also a Jerusalem variant called "Jerusalem Bagel" or "Bagele". Jerusalem bagels are not round, but oval, soft and sweet and much larger than bagels and are eaten with za'tar , a mixture of spices. They come from the Palestinian kitchen and, according to Janna Gur , are said to have been discovered by Israelis shortly after the Six Day War when they began to explore the old city of Jerusalem , which Jews could not visit before during the Jordanian rule . Later, Jerusalem bagels became popular as a snack at football games and today they are available everywhere in Israel, according to Gur "even in five-star hotels".

North America

Machine-made bagel - the groove marks can be seen as not boiled in water, but treated with steam

In the USA as in Canada, bagels are now a standard product. They also found their way into McDonald’s at the end of the 1990s . In the US, outside of New York, they are considered typical New York pastries, while outside of the US and Canada, they are considered typical American. Bagels are usually cut open and often toasted when they are not fresh from the oven. Either only with a cream cheese spread , a schmear , for breakfast or with various fillings as a sandwich.

United States

Well-filled bagel from a California breakfast restaurant

Bagels were originally made and eaten in New York only by Eastern European Jewish immigrants . In 1907 there were 300 bagel bakers in New York, and in 1910 a section of bagel bakers was founded within the Jewish Bakers Union, Local 100 , the union of New York's Jewish bakers, which became independent in 1937 as the International Bagel Bakers Union, Local 338 .

The first written mention of the bagel in English in the United States is not documented until the 1930s. In the 1950s, Lender's Bagels launched the first packaged bagels and shortly thereafter also the first frozen bagels in the USA.In 1963, the first commercially available bagel machine developed by Thompson Bagel Machine Corporation was put into operation. After becoming popular in New York, bagels spread across the United States.

In 1992, industrially manufactured bagels valued at just under $ 355 million were sold in the USA, the vast majority of them frozen; by 1995 sales had risen to $ 1.6 billion.

Canada

In Canada, the first bagel bakeries were established in Montreal in the early 20th century. To this day, two bagel bakeries in Montreal argue over which of them is the really oldest and best. A bagel bakery founded in Toronto in 1957 sold four to six million bagels a year in Toronto and the surrounding area in the 1960s, and only a quarter of them to Jewish customers. In the late 1980s, bagel consumption in Canada rose 88 percent. The largest Canadian bagel bakery, founded in 1993, was already selling several million bagels a month in 1996. Montreal Bagels have made it into space, and mini-bagels with smoked salmon were part of the start of the menu of typical regional specialties that Prince William and his wife were served on their official visit to Montreal in July 2011.

Bagel in the Jewish tradition

“Bagel and Lox”, poppy seed bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon

Round objects were often given a protective function. Bagels were given to midwives after a happy birth, and bagels were given at boy's circumcision and other special family celebrations. Almond bagels were one of the pastries that were given away for the Purim festival . On the other hand, bagels were a sign of sadness; Submerged in ashes, they were one of the foods mourners ate when they returned from the funeral. They were also eaten before the ninth Av , a day of fast to commemorate the destruction of the temple in Jerusalem.

Bagels were baked in bakeries and at home, mostly from white flour ; dark bagels were available in parts of Lithuania. Bagels made with milk and eggs have been known since at least the 19th century.

Since they were made from white flour, it was originally a luxury pastry. However, bagels developed into an everyday pastry in Eastern Europe that was eaten in the morning and during the day. The Sunday breakfast Bagel and Lox, which is considered typically Jewish in the USA and is also popular outside the Jewish community, is of American origin. According to Marks, the combination was created as a replacement for the breakfast dish Eggs Benedict , a poached egg coated with hollandaise sauce on a half English muffin topped with ham or bacon, which was popular in the USA in the 1930s and did not comply with Jewish dietary laws . The ham was replaced by smoked salmon , which was not so expensive at the time, and the hollandaise sauce with cream cheese and eaten on a bagel coated with unsalted butter instead of the English muffin. In her cookbook, Salcia Landmann makes fun of the East Jews who “got rich” in the USA and who try to turn “poor people's pastries” into a delicacy.

Bagels in proverbs, sayings and jokes

Bagels appear in numerous proverbs, sayings, and jokes.

  • A common thief is called a beygl-chaper (bagel thief).
  • The saying is best known: You won't be full until the third Beigl. Another saying goes: when you've finished your beigl, there's a hole in your pocket.

Similar baked goods and identical names

Taralli, a southern Italian pastry related to the bagel

Almost identical to the bagel is Obwarzanek , which was attested in the 14th century and is still sold on the street in Krakow today . Other close Eastern European relatives of the bagel are the Russian-Ukrainian bubliki , which sellers carried around their necks on a string, and the smaller Baranki and Suschki .

Similar baking plants are also the Turkish simit , in Greece Koulouri hot, and usually with sesame sprinkled are baked, and the pretzel . Taralli and Ciambelle have been known in Italy since ancient times , while in China there is a related pastry called Girde .

The Bialy , an abbreviation for Białystoker cake, is also very similar to the bagel. It is found almost exclusively in the USA and comes from the Eastern European Jewish cuisine . Bialys, however, are not cooked before baking and instead of a hole only have a deep indentation in the middle. The American donut has the same shape as the bagel, but consists of a different batter and is fried in fat .

In the countries of the former Danube monarchy and in Bavaria there is a sweet yeast pastry (croissant) filled with poppy seeds or nuts, which is called Beigel or Beugel in Austrian German . In Hungary , Bejgli are traditionally eaten as nut (Hungarian: diósbejgli ) and poppy seed stollen ( mákosbejgli ) at Christmas and Easter. In Austria, a chicken thigh is also known as a -beigl or -biagl .

literature

Movie

  • Beigel's Already. Documentary about the Beigel Bakery, Brick Lane (London), Great Britain 1992, 9:40 min. (English), available on Vimeo .
  • Bagelmania: A curl conquers the world. Documentary film, Germany, 2016, 58:32 min., Script and direction: Sophie Kill, production: NDR , first broadcast: November 30, 2016 on NDR, synopsis by ARD , online video available until November 30, 2017.

Web links

Commons : Bagels  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Bagel  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Mervyn Rothstein: Looking at History, and the History of Bagels . In: The New York Times . November 25, 2008, ISSN  0362-4331 ( nytimes.com [accessed January 6, 2017]).
  2. ↑ a b Yiu H. Hui (Ed.): Handbook of Food Products Manufacturing . Wiley-Interscience, 2007, ISBN 978-0-470-04964-8 , pp. 295 (English, books.google.ch [accessed February 15, 2012]).
  3. ↑ a b Maria Balinska: The Bagel. The Surprising History of a Modest Bread . Yale University Press, New Haven CT 2008, ISBN 978-0-300-11229-0 , pp. 4th f .
  4. ↑ Ruth Horowitz: The Hole Truth. Vermont's bagel bakers answer the roll call. In: Seven Days, Burlington, Vermont. October 17, 2006, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  5. ↑ Beigel Bake: Heavenly London Bagels. In: Ethnic Eating in London. October 16, 2011, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  6. ^ A b Mervyn Rothstein: The Circle of Life With Bagels. In: The New York Times. November 25, 2008, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  7. ↑ a b A taste of New York. In: British Baker Magazine. December 17, 2010, accessed December 27, 2016 .
  8. ↑ a b Maria Balinska: Answers About the History of the Bagel. In: The New York Times . September 2, 2009, accessed November 10, 2011 .
  9. ↑ a b c d e Gil Marks: Bagel . In: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food . John Wiley & Sons, 2010, pp. 35-36 ( books.google.ch ).
  10. ↑ Arthur Bovino: Why Bagels Have Gotten Bigger. An interview with Adam Pomerantz, the co-founder of Murray's Bagels and owner of Leo's Bagels in New York City. In: The Daily Meal. February 11, 2011, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  11. ^ Clyde Habermann: The State of the Bagel. In: The New York Times. June 23, 2011, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  12. ↑ Alaina Browne: Flagel = Flat Bagel. In: Serious Eats. September 24, 2008, accessed February 15, 2012 .
  13. ↑ Tasty Bagels. (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on January 5, 2012 ; accessed on February 15, 2012 .
  14. ↑ Bob Sassone: Finally: Square bagels! (No longer available online.) In: Huffington Post . February 14, 2006, archived from the original on January 30, 2010 ; accessed on November 22, 2011 (English).
  15. ↑ Love is in the Air Bagel fans! ( Memento from March 1, 2012 in the Internet Archive ). In: New York Bakery Co. Bagels, March 1, 2012, (English).
  16. ↑ Ed Levine: Was Life Better When Bagels Were Smaller? In: e-cookbooks.net. Retrieved February 15, 2012 .
  17. ↑ Joan Nathan: The Bagel. (No longer available online.) In: Moment. 2008, archived from the original on November 18, 2011 ; accessed on November 10, 2011 .
  18. ^ Leo Rosten: The joys of Yiddish . McGraw-Hill, New York 1968, pp. 26 .
  19. ↑ a b c d Dovid Katz : One Bagel, Two Bagel, Three Bagel. (PDF; 77 kB) Accessed October 31, 2011 (English).
  20. ^ Claudia Roden: Le livre de la cuisine juive . Flammarion, Paris 2003, ISBN 2-08-011055-1 , pp. 99 .
  21. ^ Al Gray: The Bagel Boom. In: The Rotarian. October 2000, accessed October 31, 2011 .
  22. ↑ Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett: Bagel. In: Encyclopedia of Food and Culture. Retrieved November 10, 2011 (English, ISBN 978-0-684-80568-9 ).
  23. ↑ Maria Balinska: The Bagel. The Surprising History of a Modest Bread . Yale University Press, New Haven, Conn. 2008, ISBN 978-0-300-11229-0 , pp. 17 .
  24. ↑ Joan Nathan: Bagel . In: Andrew F. Smith (Ed.): The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink . Oxford University Press, 2007, ISBN 978-0-19-530796-2 , pp. 32 (English, books.google.ch [accessed on March 5, 2012]).
  25. ↑ Renate Wahrig-Burfeind: Brockhaus Wahrig German Dictionary. With a lexicon of language teaching. In: Digital Library. 9th, completely revised and updated edition. knowledgemedia at inmedia ONE GmbH, Gütersloh / Munich 2012, ISBN 978-3-577-07595-4 (CD-ROM edition), keyword bagel .
  26. ↑ Duden. The large dictionary of the German language in ten volumes. 3., completely reworked. and exp. Ed. By the Scientific Council of the Duden editorial team. Vol. 2: Bedr - Eink. Dudenverlag, Mannheim / Leipzig / Vienna / Zurich 1999, s. 575.
  27. ↑ Eckhard Eggers: Language change and language mixing in Yiddish . Peter Lang, 1998, p. 351 f .
  28. ↑ The market for food and enjoyment. Beverage and food trends. (PDF) (No longer available online.) In: Focus . December 2002, p. 8f , archived from the original on December 3, 2013 ; Retrieved April 4, 2012 .
  29. ↑ Nussbeugerl with Christmas. Filling. ( Memento of December 5, 2013 in the Internet Archive ). In: konditormeister.blog.de , October 6, 2009.
  30. ↑ The best thing since sliced ​​bread? Brits embrace the bagel as sales soar. In: Daily Mail . March 27, 2012, accessed April 4, 2012 .
  31. ^ Bagel sales are on the up. In: British Baker Magazine. July 22, 2011, accessed December 27, 2016 .
  32. ↑ Oliver Thring: Consider the Bagel. In: The Guardian . July 5, 2011, accessed March 5, 2012 .
  33. ^ Paul Mansfield: London: On the capital's vanishing beige trail. In: The Telegraph . February 28, 2004, accessed April 4, 2012 .
  34. ↑ Mike Cronin, Daryl Adair: The Wearing of the Green. A History of St. Patrick's Day . Routledge, 2006, ISBN 0-415-35912-0 , pp. 245, cover (English, books.google.ch [accessed March 5, 2012]).
  35. ^ TA: Ireland. Bagel fans are asked to pay. ( Memento from July 15, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ). In: Tachles , November 22, 2011.
  36. ^ Serge Schmemann: American Fast Food In Israel: The Bagel. In: New York Times. March 9, 1997, accessed February 29, 2012 .
  37. ↑ Ask Gila about Hysop. Retrieved February 29, 2012 .
  38. ↑
    Commons : Bagel Yerushalmi  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files
  39. ↑ Janna Gur: The New Israeli Kitchen . Umschau Buchverlag, 2007, ISBN 978-3-86528-614-7 , p. 90 f .
  40. ↑ David Barstow: Um, Did Somebody Say McBagels? Dough With a Hole in the Middle, but Will New Yorkers Bite? In: The New York Times. April 24, 1999, accessed November 10, 2011 .
  41. ↑ a b c Jennifer Berg: From the Big Bagel to the Big Roti? In: Annie Hauck-Lawson, Jonathan Deutsch, Michael Lomonaco (eds.): Gastropolis. Food and New York City . Columbia University Press, 2010, ISBN 978-0-231-13652-5 , pp. 260 f . (English, books.google.com [accessed October 31, 2011]).
  42. ↑ Donna Gabaccia: What Do We Eat? In: Carole Counihan (Ed.): Food in the USA. A reader . Routledge, 2002, ISBN 0-415-93232-7 , pp. 260 f . (English, books.google.com [accessed February 15, 2012]).
  43. ↑ Maria Balinska: The Bagel. The Surprising History of a Modest Bread . Yale University Press, New Haven, Conn. 2008, ISBN 978-0-300-11229-0 , pp. 118, 127 .
  44. ↑ 1997 Economic Census, Economic Census, Manufacturing. (PDF) US Department of Commerce, December 1999, p. 10 , accessed November 28, 2011 .
  45. ^ Dana Canedy: Ethnic Lines Are Crossed as Bagels Become a Breakfast Mainstay. In: The New York Times. December 26, 1996, accessed November 28, 2011 .
  46. ^ A b Steven Penfold: The donut. A Canadian history. University of Toronto Press, 2008, pp. 149–151 , accessed October 31, 2011 (English, ISBN 978-0-8020-9545-9 ).
  47. ↑ Katie Beck: The bagel war of Montreal. In: BBC World News America, Montreal. June 22, 2010, accessed November 22, 2011 .
  48. ↑ Here's proof: Montreal bagels are out of this world. (No longer available online.) In: The Gazette (Montreal) . June 3, 2008, archived from the original on June 4, 2008 ; accessed on November 22, 2011 (English).
  49. ↑ Canadian chefs prepare meal fit for a prince. In: The Independent. July 1, 2011, accessed April 4, 2012 .
  50. ^ Glenn C. Altschuler: Three Centuries of Bagels. The Evolution of a 'Modest Bread'. In: The Jewish Daily Forward . November 5, 2008, accessed November 3, 2011 .
  51. ^ A b Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett: Food and Drink. In: The YIVO Encyclopedia of Jews in Eastern Europe. Accessed December 27, 2016 .
  52. ↑ Morris M. Faierstein, Berel Wein: Religious Year. In: The YIVO Encyclopedia of Jews in Eastern Europe. Accessed December 27, 2016 .
  53. ^ Salcia Landmann: The Jewish kitchen . Hahn, Munich 1995, ISBN 3-87287-421-7 , pp. 275 .
  54. ↑ Ignaz Bernstein: Jewish proverbs and sayings; collected and explained by Ignaz Bernstein with co-workers from BW Segel . 2., presumably u. verb. Edition. Warsaw 1908, p. XXXVf .
  55. ↑ Ignaz Bernstein: Jewish proverbs and sayings; collected and explained by Ignaz Bernstein with co-workers from BW Segel . 2., presumably u. verb. Edition. Warsaw 1908, p. 29 .
  56. ↑ Izabela Wojcik: Bialy . In: Andrew F. Smith (Ed.): The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink . Oxford University Press, 2007, ISBN 978-0-19-530796-2 , pp. 48 and 331 (English, books.google.ch [accessed February 15, 2012]).
  57. ↑ Duden online. Retrieved December 16, 2011 .