Big Möseler
| Big Möseler | ||
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 View from Schlegeiskees (from WSW) to the Großer Möseler |
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| height | 3480 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria and South Tyrol , Italy | |
| Mountains | Zillertal Alps | |
| Dominance | 4.7 km → Hochfeiler | |
| Notch height | 455 m ↓ Neveser Sattel | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 59 '33 " N , 11 ° 46' 54" E | |
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| First ascent | June 16, 1865 by Douglas William Freshfield , George Henry Fox and Francis Fox Tuckett , led by François Devouassoud and Peter Michel | |
 Big Möseler from the northeast with Waxeggkees 1980 |
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The Große Möseler ( Italian Grande Mèsule ) is 3480 m above sea level. A. the second highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps after the Hochfeiler ( 3509 m ). It is located in the Zillertal main ridge , which forms the state border between the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian autonomous province of South Tyrol . Due to its size, it is the dominant mountain in the area. Viewed from the north-west it appears as a firn-covered cathedral, from the north-east as an evenly shaped rock cone. To the northwest, east and south it sends pronounced ridges. The mountain is easily accessible from the Furtschaglhaus and is therefore often climbed . The first ascent took place on June 16, 1865 by George Henry Fox, Douglas William Freshfield and Francis Fox Tuckett with the mountain guides François Devouassoud from Chamonix and Peter Michel from Grindelwald, as well as two porters unknown by name.
Surroundings
The Große Möseler is part of the Zillertal main ridge, a dominant mountain range of over 3000 meter high peaks. Neighboring mountains are in the south, separated by the Westliche Möselerscharte , the secondary summit Möselekopf with a height of 3390 m , in the further course of the southwest ridge , separated by the Neveser Sattel crossing at 3025 m height , the Breitnock with 3212 m height. In the course of the north ridge there is the 3190 m high Furtschaglspitze and in the east, separated by the Eastern Möselerscharte located at 3240 m , the 3304 m high Rossruggspitze and the Turnerkamp , at 3420 m . The Möseler is surrounded by the Schlegeiskees and Furtschaglkees glacier areas in the west, Waxeggkees in the north and the western and eastern Nevesferner in the south.
Ascent history
In the first half of the 19th century it was believed that the Schwarzenstein was the highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps. When the Austrian alpine researcher and geographer Anton von Ruthner stood on the summit of this mountain in 1858, however, it became clear to him that the Möseler to the west, which he called Schneeberg , had to be significantly higher. On August 12, 1863 von Ruthner and two mountain guides from Breitlahner tried to climb the Möseler in Zemmgrund , but only managed to get to the Nevesattel in thick fog, which was initially thought to be the Möseler. When the fog cleared later, the error was recognized. However, they weren't the first to walk this long-used crossing. It was not until the British tour led by Francis Fox Tuckett, their Swiss mountain guides and local porters on June 16, 1865, that it was successful. The tour began in the South Tyrolean Lappach in the Lappachtal (today part of the municipality of Mühlwald ) at four in the morning and went north to the eastern Nevesferner . After crossing the glacier, you reached the southern ridge of the Möseler in Nebel , but you only got to the southern pre-summit, the significantly lower Möselekopf . As the fog lifted, it was recognized that the main summit had not yet been reached, in the northeast the highest point appeared as a broad rocky summit. After another two and a half hours at 12:30 pm, you finally reached the Großer Möseler via the icy south ridge. In the clearing weather, however, Tuckett now realized that even the hard-to-conquer Großer Möseler was not the highest mountain in the Zillertal Alps. To the west a point of ice towered higher. An angle measurement brought the unwelcome certainty: This ice point, later called Hochfeiler , had to be the long-sought highest point. The descent of the group led north down to the Schlegeistal, at 9 p.m. they reached the alpine huts near Breitlahner.
Bases and routes
Today's normal route from North Tyrol leads from the west in a combined ice and rock tour (alpine tour ) in four hours from the Furtschaglhaus ( 2293 m ) over the crevasse Furtschaglkees and the west ridge to the summit (according to literature, the icy summit ridge is often underestimated and problematic). Alpine experience and glacier climbing equipment are required. After crossing the glacier, the ascent takes place through a firn channel, in the later summer months the ascent to the left of the channel gives way to block terrain.
The normal route from South Tyrol, which is mostly ice-free in summer, also takes four hours from the Chemnitzer Hütte (2,419 m) over the Neveser Höhenweg and the pronounced western moraine of the Eastern Nevesferner to a cirque south-east of the summit and over the gap between Großemes and Kleinem Möseler to the east ridge. The moraine can also be reached via the other end of the Neveser Höhenweg from the Edelrauthütte (2,545 m). A descent to the Berliner Hütte is also possible. This descent is initially identical to the South Tyrolean route, but after the first steep block terrain leads over the Eastern Nevesferner and the Eastern Möselerscharte onto the crevasse Waxeggkees and then onto the Berliner Höhenweg .
Surname
The part of the name Möseler is a spoof German of the dialect word Messila with the meaning "small raised bog". The name of the mountain has thus migrated from an area at the foot of the mountain.
Literature and map
- Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/1, Zillertal Alps West
Web links
- Route description ice tours - Himmelsleiter and Firndreieck
- Great Möseler mountain tour from the Neves reservoir on www.wandernsuedtirol.info
Individual evidence
- ↑ Clem Clements, Jonathan de Ferranti, Eberhard Jurgalski , Mark Trengove: The 3000 m SUMMITS of AUSTRIA - 242 peaks with at least 150 m of prominence , October 2011, p. 13.
- ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Großer Möseler on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ^ Douglas William Freshfield in: The Alpine Journal, Volume VII, London 1875, p. 281
- ^ Carl Diener in Eduard Richter (editor): The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume , publishing house of the German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin 1894, p. 18 ff.
- ↑ Johannes Ortner: Messila and Mëisules . In: Experience the mountains - The magazine of the Alpine Association of South Tyrol . No. 1 , 2017, p. 58-59 .